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Ok, this video has been helpful as I’ve gotten a dappled turntable kit but didn’t know how to power it, thanks for sharing, the underside and how it went together was enough for me to get started, Cheers K.J
A flange under the deck would be good, machano did have a selection of flanges that took a grub screw, file a flat on the drive to take the grub screw and hey presto!
In this day and age you would have thought they'd at least change it over to a D type shaft... Wouldn't be difficult or cost them much to change it either. Good video showing how to over come the challenges of a railway modeller!
A most creditable display of your, undoubted, engineering skills, I shall subscribe and follow , grubby fingernails and all, for all in the future - great stuff, thanks
agh! Well done Jenny. Turntables! I had a hand operated one then upgraded to a motorised one. Of course I couldn't get it to work. On to manufacturers helpline and others. In the end considered throwing it out but took it to a local repairer and thus forfeit my warranty. It was a manufacturers' fault! and all sorted tho a bit noisy...
Jenny why don't you invest in a Locomotech motor for your turn table it works fine for me you can dcc it as well, Also may i suggest using Devcon to secure the 4mm shaft in the turntable. hope this helps Regards Alan
TBH - now you have re-engineered the drive mechanism, you could add a motor onto that handle mounting plate with a small potentiometer type control knob.
Jenny - Just subscribed from upstate NY, USA. Great site - love your methodical approach to troubleshooting, fab and testing. From my experience: "that should be easy to fix"... two day later: "Wow, that was a bear! - Dave
Jenny, You'll have a plane ticket @ the airport so U can come repair mine. LOL LOL LOL!! Don't ya jus luv ur toys when they break down. Well my Ex used to say,. Send it back or Call the repairman!!! I would just crack on pull up my Big Boy pants and get to the repair. Good for you. So very very much pleased to see another experienced modeller that isn't be afraid to dig in and Get R Done.
impostor smith I wasn’t always “a Professional” but having once erected a 60’ temporary communications mast and aerial and then had to take it down to cut off the tails, scorned by the “boss”(loosely) I learnt my lesson!
I had a similar problem with my Peco turntable which was electrically driven, I tried lots of fixes but in the end I relegated it to the hidden fiddle yard and I now turn it by hand.
Jenny, if TT was binding on the pit wall why didn't you try some things like sanding the wall or adding graphite powder to bridge lip/wall..It must have binded and you turned the crank too hard against that resistance. Did 'brick paper' added in well cause the binding / not called for in instructions, say ? Nice fix, anyway. Sorry that happened.. M, Los Angeles
Do you have to switch polarity once the loco goes onto the tt or do you make sure it goes on and backs off in the same direction without spinning the tt round the long way??
Connect all of the lines off the turntable with droppers to your power feed. The turntable has its own power feed from the controller and automatically changes track polarity at a point in the rotation. Make sure that this polarity change point is at a point when the turntable is not lined up with any of the adjoining tracks!
Hi Jenny, another great video :) As it happns I have just purchased a mini pillar drill for just under £50 from eBay, inc postage - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291698846631?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 and I am very pleased with it. It has all metal components and has both electronic variable speed control and a 4 speed belt & pulleys under the plastic hood. It standy about 13" high (330mm) and has a vertica travel of about 1.5" (40mm). It has a proper chuck that takes up to a 6mm drill bit. Dave.