How to adjust front and rear suspension for the 2016 Triumph Thruxton R. Rear Preload: 4:20 Front Preload: 9:20 Rear Damping: 11:32 Front Damping: 15:55
i think he made a mistake in the rear rebnd/comp, it is stated in my manual that clockwise/counterclkws is always looking from each end of the suspension element. so he is right in rebound but he made a double negative there.
Fantastic job explaining something that thruxton r owners, should be very familiar with. Perhaps you may add that with a stiffer rear, in a solo hard acceleration, the front will be transfering less weight to the back, so it will keep your nose a bit more on the ground, eliminating that light effect of the front wheel whenever you are strong on the gas when exiting a curve. Fantastic video mate.
Thanks for posting this video, respect that you've been able to get the C-spanners to do their job! I have a Thrx R and have spent a lot of time tweaking the suspension. Your video is very helpful, but I'm confused to hear you say in a couple of places that if you're finding the bumps harsh, to INCREASE the compression setting, and the same with the pre-load - INCREASE it. I found the R suspension very harsh, on bumpy B roads especially. Tried all the adjustments myself on both wheels all the way from hard to soft, confused myself hugely. Eventually went to Tillit Suspension in Woodmancote, Glos, Darren is first class. He changed the oil in the front Showas for a thinner grade, and that's helped a great deal. He says the top adjusting Showas don't in fact adjust all that much with the screws. For the Ohlins, he recommended a soft compression and harder rebound, and reset the circlip to the top groove, giving minimum pre-load. Again this helped. His view is that pre-load primarily affects ride height, but with a progressive rate spring like the yellow Ohlin, any preload will make the suspension firmer. I am light weight, 140lbs, and the present setup works well. I would need to adjust the rear preload for sure if I took a pillion or for a heavier rider. One more thought - I found there is an actual misprint in the Owners Manual - it contradicts itself. I pointed it out to Triumph in an email, they acknowledged it, and they may have changed it now. On p99 the table says count the front preload clockwise from the fully anti-clockwise position, but on p100 it says the opposite! I shared your confusion about the rebound setting on the Ohlins, view from above or below? But at least you can feel the difference...
Thanks for the feedback! When I was talking about using more pre-load I think I may have got one bit of the video wrong - the front pre-load standard setting may in fact be 7 full turns rather than clicks of the adjuster (manual just says "turns"). I thought I was using more than recommended but actually this may be in line with standard settings. The compression damping is a bit of a dark art - on the rear there is a definite sweet spot - too little or too much will result in discomfort over bumps. I'm also a bit heavier than you and think that this bike probably suits weights of 180lbs+. I will post my own recommended settings above!
thanks for your video, it really was very useful, the ohlins should do it for us but it does not. I live in Brazil and I also have a trhuxton 1200, very nive bike. thank you again.
You state that the front preload adjustment is done via 7 clicks. The manual actually says 7 TURNS clockwise from the fully anticlockwise position (the first turn being counted as zero) and not in clicks. Can you clarify?
Good job explaining the basics on the suspension. Would be good to know your weight and the sag settings after adjustments. Also can be useful to use a cable tie to see how much of the suspension you use when Riding based on the setting. Although my weight is only 83kg, believe I may have to get a firmer rear spring.
I did go to a tuning shop who suggested the rear was fine however the front forks need stronger springs as I was using most of the travel just stationary. I have seen other reports that Showa's BPF aren't really comparable to standard sag measuring though. With my gear I'm about 90kg
Öhlins not Ohlins. The company is named after the founder Kenth Öhlins. 12:06 you say 'rebound' but that is the compression adjuster knob (on the reservoir) Minor oversight I'm sure. 13:20: "clockwise" & "counter-clockwise"? This can get confusing depending on which way you are looking at the clickers. Try to think of it as normal right hand threads so Righty-tighty, lefty loosey. The compression adjuster (on the reservoir) is your comfort knob. Compression is soft or stiff. Run it as soft as you can get away with. The rebound clicker knob (bottom of the shock) is a control knob. Rebound is going to be fast or slow depending on your clicker setting. As you go down the road the tire hits a bump & compresses. The compression adjuster knob affects this action. As you go past the bump the shock extends back out or rebounds. How fast or slow the the shock extends out after hitting & then passing the bump is what the rebound knob affects. Fast rebound will keep the tire on the ground (which is good!). Too fast & the ride will be like a pogo-stick. "Springy", bouncy, etc. (un-controlled). Too slow on the rebound will make the shocks "pack up" or drag across the top of multiple bumps in a row. Faster rebound will allow the tire to extend down into the valley of each bump (keeping the tire on the ground). The clicker knobs are controlling a small amount of fluid (oil) inside the shock. It is like a water faucet. Open the faucet to allow more water to flow out. Close off the faucet to restrict the amount of water coming out. Experiment with the clickers one at a time to find your ideal set-up.
Thanks for the feedback. The tricky thing with this bike is that you have two different makes of suspension and they don't use the same labelling system. Öhlins (I didn't use the accent for SEO purposes - I hope you can forgive me) usually uses a fast-slow rating for rebound however the Triumph manual just says "clockwise / anti-clockwise" and there is no indicator on these shocks. Showa uses "hard -> soft" rating but that doesn't tell you what is actually going on. As you say it is really how fast the rebound is working that matters. The main point of the video was to deal with the fact that the Triumph manual is wrong in terms of rear preload adjustment and isn't clear enough with the rear rebound. I did make a few errors - but hopefully more helpful than not!
yours is the only video that has a real hands on approach to adjusting the suspension. very nicely done mate! I get the clockwise / anti-clockwise questions every day working at Öhlins
Then very happy to receive a comment from an Öhlins employee! And for what's worth I'm really enjoying the ride now that I've got it figured out. May have to come after you for a discount - would really like a black spring unit on the rear..
Could be many things, not necessarily suspension. If you got the bike check the wheels have no play. Otherwise might be oversteer which can lead to tank slapping. Try lowering rear preload and increasing front preload and see if that helps. I always found the bike very stable in a straight line so doesn't sound right.
Hopefully you can answer this. During your video your rear dampening number was 24 clicks but in your comment you list 5. Which one is it for your preferred straight line comfort?
For me, between 5 - 15 clicks (from softest) is most comfortable. Tbh I don't really notice much difference across the range of the rear damping settings alone but the springs themselves are pretty stiff so don't need much assistance. You can always check with a suspension expert since ohlin shocks are well known
Have you tried to set the suspension up with the right (static) sag numbers on your weight already? That's normally the best initial setup for every rider. After that it's all about setting the right compression and rebound to be able to use the full travel without bottoming out and not "pogo-ing" back up.
Yes. The issue for me is the front doesn’t have enough travel for a bike that is already quite heavy. The Ohlins were fine but I wouldn’t get another bike with Big Piston forks like these.
@@ali24ck Don't think that travel is the issue. I'm more thinking towards the chassis not being in balance or the front spring being to soft for you or your capabilities.
When I had this bike I went to a tuning shop and they said the front springs did not have enough preload for the correct static sage so yes you are right in that. Extra travel would have made it more comfortable
Thanks!! Anyone get the po-go stick rear bouncing on the highway? Like, highways that just aren’t paved fully flat? Had this issue on both of my bikes, but want to address it on my thruxton rs. It seems to be coming from the rear.
A pogo stick effect is usually caused by insufficient damping. Without any damping, the springs would pogo constantly. Dial up the rear damping and see how you go!
Excellent and helpful video, but I find it odd Triumph sold us suspension that you can reduce preload in the front, yet not easily the rear. You can reduce front preload from factory settings 7 clicks (biker617 rolls his back to zero, adds 7 and then adds 3 more) but on the rear you cannot reduce preload with the tools supplied, but only add (position 2 or position 3). The only way to reduce preload from the factory settings on the supplied Ohlins is to compress the spring, and pull the circlip that's under the top ring and move the circlip to a higher groove. This is not covered in the Owner's Handbook and that book is incorrect in saying you can loosen or tighten the top ring which they refer to as a 'lockring' - Did Triumph assume they were supplying Ohlins threaded style shocks instead of the circlip models supplied? I'm 5'-4 and needed to reduce preload to get the rear of the bike to sag. I ended up pulling the circlips and letting the two rings rise all the way to the top of the shocks.
Thanks! You are right in that the Ohlins rears are not well explained in the handbook and it took me a while to work out which way the lockring went. I would be interested to know how tricky it was to reduce the preload on the rears from minimum and what the difference is now?
@@TylerTron21 Hi Tyler. I'm a pretty casual rider, older guy and weigh about 180 dressed. Honestly - I'm probably not qualified to give suspension advice, although the internet is full of armchair racers... ha. Is there guys who promote your track days? Might as them or motorcycle dealers nearby that sponsor racers?
That's true. I'm just telling you the way I did it. But the first edition of this manual had some errors and depicted the wrong type of rear shocks on the bike (e.g. there is no lock nut).
@@london_biker6177 ahh ok I'm with you my book says on page 99 I think to do 1 thing then 101 totally contradicts it's self I'm just coming off the tiger 1050 sport so I'm finding the ride quite a bit different my 1st ride nearly broke my lower back after 250 ks I do appreciate people's youtubes vlogs just gets confusing when manual and vloger arnt the the same,what I'm looking for is comfort that's all the most comfortable settings there are 👌cheers for your reply
Just for extra info here are my own preferred settings in addition to the manual recommended ones: These are + from the minimum level on each setting. Urban / Crappy English Roads / Max Comfort: Rear Preload : Setting 0 (no clicks down) Rear Compression Damping: +8 clicks Rear Rear Rebound Damping: +5 clicks (turns opposite way to Compression) Front Preload: 7 full turns with key Front Compression Damping: +1-2 full turns Front Rebound Damping: +1-2 full turns Pros/Cons - Best comfort in a straight line. If you get front-end dive or oversteer try increasing front compression damping. Two Up: Rear Preload: +2 clicks Rear Compression Damping: +16 clicks Rear Rebound Damping: +15 clicks Front: As above * UPDATE: My preferred sporty ride settings: To improve the cornering agility, consider the following as changed from the solo settings: Rear Preload: 0 Rear Compression: +2 clicks in addition Rear Rebound: = +1-5 clicks in addition Front Preload: -1 full turn Front Compression: No change Front Rebound: +2 turns in addition. Try a pro suspension shop if not achieving desired results. Thanks!
Not sure you are doing the front preload correctly. The manual says number of "turns" not "clicks". I am confused myself so open to interpretation. All other adjustments mention clicks, however.
@@jeffdean7666 Should absolutely be able to turn more than 7 full turns from all the way soft anticlockwise to hard (full clockwise). You might find it is difficult to do as the weight of the bike is on the forks. You are otherwise correct. The Showa forks have preload adjusted from all the way soft to hard direction (anticlockwise to clockwise). Dampers (rebound and compression) is performed from all the way hard (full clockwise) back the other direction.
You could be right - the handbook simply states "turns" but given that this setting clicks I would find that odd. The handbook maybe should have said number of clicks. There are about 4 clicks to one full turn of the key so 7 turns would be 28 clicks. When I was testing my own settings I remember more than 10 clicks was a bit hard. I'll give it a try though and let you know!
Good info thanks, however the setting for rear rebound is not the opposite direction for compression. You have to look at the settings from the bottom up. Then it's exactly the same.....this is the same for most car and bike adjustable shocks.
You may be right that the 'standard build' requires looking at the shocks from different directions for the different settings, I personally don't think this is very intuitive if the adjusters are not all labelled.
You need a spring compressor specific to this set. You can then raise the clips along the shock. But you either need the exact equipment or go to a specialist. It may be more cost effective to get a new set and sell your Ohlins if you're not happy with them.
I thought that you lower the rear shock by changing to setting 2 (increasing preload) by turning the upper ring clockwise and lower anti-clockwise? Why am I so 😐
Well spotted! Sadly yes, I do ride through the winter but also coat with ACF-50 so shouldn't really happen. Will probably do what Triumph want me to do and buy the black engine covers!
I have pinned a comment correcting that it is full turns and not clicks. However as the front pre-load only compresses about 2-3mm it doesn’t make a lot of difference so I wouldn’t say this would put anyone “at risk”. I have had the sag figures checked by a pro suspension tuner and the fact is the front per-load doesn’t change a lot.
