Thanks for the video, the little extra tab on the transmission cover is a stone protector, so if a stone flies up it won’t shear the bolt head off, the other bolt is shielded by the engine. Normally when I install a flange cover like the one on the transmission filter I hold it in place and use a small hammer 2 or 3 Oz and gentle tap it up in place, it will then stay there by itself and the bolts can be easily installed, it’s easier than trying to get/keep the bolt in place, less chance of cross treading the bolt and less chance of cuttings the o-ring. I find o-rings tend to get cuts when a bolt on one side is used to draw the flange cover up in place, which tends to tilt it and pinch the o-ring. Keep on Rumbling :)
Nice video. I always go by the factory recommendation. Standard Honda 10-30 is sufficient. As long as the oil is changed per the book. It is all good. The price of the Honda oil is not bad at all.
Great video. For what it’s worth, when I took delivery of my 2021 DCT, my dealer suggested that I use Honda HP4 10w-40 synthetic/petroleum blend. It is in a gold bottle with a red cap. He said it would make the DCT shift even smoother. I cannot attest to that as I have not hit the mileage for my first change yet. But I have already purchased the oil and plan on using that.
@@RanGer-498 Well, I did my own first oil/DCT change at 1000 miles with the semi synthetic my dealer recommended. I’ve only put 200 more miles on it since then, but no slipping that I can detect as of yet. Of course, everyone should go with what they feel comfortable with. Plenty of Goldwings out there with 300,000 miles using “regular” oil.
@@ellobo1326 im sure you will be ok but ill just stick with what my desler told me as well , i change my oil regularly (more than recommended intervals) maybe later on ill switch it to amsoil.
Good video Moose. A couple follow up questions- 1. Can theses oil changes be done with the bike on the center stand, and if so, does the raised angle of the bike (back of bike higher than front) prevent all the oil from draining? 2. Have you found that checking your oil on the center stand with a rested, cold engine gives you a reading at the lower mark on the dipstick, or even lower possibly, suggesting a need to add oil when in fact you know you have filled it to the proper spec.? The first time I checked my level on my new GW Tour DCT, that is what I found and was surprised that Honda wants a warm motor that has only been turned off for 3-5 minutes when pulling and reading the dipstick. And when following their procedure, inclusive of a preliminary wipe-down of the dipstick, you get what I feel is a sloppy questionable reading somewhere between the HIGH and LOW marks. And I would add that when doing a full drain, such as you did here, there is still almost another full quart of oil sitting somewhere in the engine that never gets drained. I say this because Honda instructs to add 5.9 quarts of oil after doing an engine disassembly. When I read this, it made me question how really efficient these oil changes can be at expelling contaminated and degraded oil when we are only removing 4.9 qts. of the 5.9 stored in the engine. And then comes the question of how one can truly change over to synthetic oil in one oil change.
I can’t see any reason you couldn’t do it on the center stand. If you are worried about the angle, you could always stick a board under the front tire after putting it in the center stand to help level the bike. I would think it would be the same as having it on a lift! The second one, I check mine on the lift, so I don’t do it on the center stand, sorry. But could still use the board trick I bet. It is a horribly designed system for checking the oil level. Think they would have made it easier. I love the bike, but some of the design choices are questionable. Draining the oil compared to a tear down would take more oil. I imagine because of the oil in and on the bearings and all other surfaces, not much a way of getting that all out on an oil change. Imagine after enough changes it will eventually cycle out. Well hope this was helpful, ride safe out there!
Thanks for the video. Would you have a link to the tool that you used in your hand to hand tighten the bolts on the DCT filter cover plate ? It looks like a flat cylindrical tool that attached to your socket extension. It looks like the tool helped you hand tighten the bolts much easier than trying to use only the socket extension, especially when everything gets oily. Thanks a bunch
It’s a Titan Lift. It’s the electric Hydraulic version. For the life of me can’t remember the model number. We just sunk it in the floor to keep it out of my way when not in use.
I think it would be fairly easy to do the oil change on the center stand. Drain pan, well I have the HArley Davidson one, mainly because I bought it when I had my Harleys. Works good. It’s fairly low to the ground. Here is a link to show you the one I have, I imagine that other manufactures make some just as good for less money. www.shoputahharley.com/products/low-profile-oil-drain-pan-63795-10?variant=33033162820&gclid=CjwKCAjw_o-HBhAsEiwANqYhp0CioAhU7QuqK1lE7o2A-qnLFdNBBbMGTdFCixnAg-hOBQZzEQwGkRoC7KYQAvD_BwE
No, I’ve only done the initialization once since owning the bike. Seems like it was about a year ago. I was getting a fairly loud clunk when placing it from reverse to drive. I watched some vids and tried it. Seemed to work!
I’m not really sure. I have used amsoil in most of my bikes. I’m my opinion it is a better oil than regular oil. I know Memphis Mike uses Amsoil in his wings too. I’ll have my report back soon from blackstone. It will show any issues. However, I wouldn’t want to tell someone not to trust the place that sold them the bike. But an engine is an engine for the most part. Lubrication and heat distribution is the main factor. I like how amsoil has treated my past engines!
Owners manual is always a safe startling place. Synthetic oils have been used with good success. Amsoil, Rotella T6, Honda Pro GN4 or Hp4 all in viscosity ranges appropriate for your areas. (10w-40w)
My service rep (a goldwing mech for 20+ years) said to only use regular oil preferably the honda one as synthetic might make the dct slip. Mind you he said on my other bikes to keep using synthetic.
