I’m just a girl and after watching this video was able to change the oil on my 2017 250Super Duty. For the first time! I had always paid someone to do it before! Thanks for making my life Easier! Love from Florida
You can if your worried get the filter off first.I have had them so tight from the dealership were the just collapsed. People over tighten oil filers.A good band wrench and get it as far to the top as you can.That the strongest part.
When I change my filter, I put a large size ziplock bag over the filter and then I take it out. It saves the mess and you can still see what the filter is doing and don’t have to worry about dropping it in the used oil pan 👍
Ran a very similar product on my old 2007 F350, and then on my 2012 F250... never had a single issue with leaks of any cause so I put one on my 2017 F250 KR. I have loved having it on so much I have one on each of my vehicles now... the wife's, my two kids, and my Jeep Wrangler. Wouldn't have it any other way. You'll be very happy with it!
I do the same for my 7.3. So much easier. I am wondering why ford changed the location of the drain plug to the side of the pan instead of on the bottom like the 7.3. Seems like it would leave room for crud to accumulate. 294k trouble free miles on the 7.3, but am starting to get interested in a newer truck. Hard decision...I love my 7.3
This is the way Not the way I did it of course Na...I like to remove it while screaming hot then drop it in the oil pan that’s already almost full...ah yes oil shower for everyone.
Good video. I have one suggestion. This is something I have used for the past 25 years, changing the oil on my other F250 trucks. Before you remove the old oil filter take a punch or chisel and knock a small hole in the bottom of the filter to let the oil in the filter drain out. This way you don't have to deal with a heavy filter covered in used oil.
Great tip! I've done this before but it's inconsistent. Sometimes it drains the tubes above and sometimes it doesn't. Can't tell what's different. It is guaranteed to get the oil out of the filter though, which is a plus.
I Worked for a big Company for 11years over 2,000 trucks in the fleet. I worked from a operator up to a superintendent. I always helped the mechanics any chance possible, each oil change a few of the mechanics would always run clean oil down before putting the plug in to help push all the old oil out of the pan that may contain any contamination. This allowed for all fresh oil to circulate through out the motor. I have carried this with me ever since. I have seen these trucks be put through hell and yet still run like a champ.
I like the replacement drain plug that accepts the hose. The easy drain. I use a scratch awl to poke a hole in the bottom of the filter. It eliminates the mess.
I really liked those Drain Valves, but they always seemed to leak a little bit. When it came time to sell my vehicle, potential buyers were concerned about the leak, so I ended up putting the drain plug back in the last time I changed the oil before selling it. The leak was never much, but it was enough to get the potential buyers attention.
next time punch a hole in the used oil filter and let that drain out and then unscrew and it wont be as messy and also I would be using Motorcraft oil until the power train warranty is up.
The hole punching hasn't been working lately. Drains only the filter but not the hoses above. No need to use Motorcraft oil, it just has to be CJ4 spec and Mobile 1 is a premium brand.
Ford actually recommends that the new gen. 6.7 psd uses Motorcraft oil, check out powerstrokehelp on RU-vid that will explain a lot more than what I can explain but in all honesty it's a lot of typing and I'm not up for that.....but beautiful truck you have and I can't wait for more videos you post on it
I've got various brands of CJ-4 oil sitting around, some I won't use anymore. Basically cause they're 15/40 and I use the full synthetic 5W/40 now. But they still find a use every oil change. After draining, and with the drain plug still out, I pour a quart of this still new oil through the engine and allow it to also drain into the pan. Flushes out the last of the black oil at the bottom of the pan, and keeps the oil you changed looking newer slightly longer. Yeah, it's still gonna turn black, but just not as quickly as before.
Any worries about road debris bouncing up and opening that quick release on the drain plug? I personally would be terrified about dumping 13qts all over town.
That question has definitely been on my mind. If you look at the position of the lever on the valve it's behind the oil pain and up a little bit. Pretty sure nothing is going to get up in there and unlock and turn that thing. These have been out for a long time and satisfaction ratings are high. Figured I'd give it a shot.
EpicCowlick I like the idea of the quick valve but I would worried about it developing a slow leak or something or someone opening it.. Do they make one with a threaded outlet? So you can put a cap on it to protect against leaks? I work around all kinds of valve and it WILL leak someday..
Spoken by experience. lol. Yes, I'm sure given enough time they can leak. Lots of people really like them though and I'll always have the OEM drain plug on the top shelf of the tool box. They do make some plugs exactly like you describe. They also have 90 degree hose nipples too so the oil can drain straight down instead of straight back. Lots of options.
I'm not sure if you will be monitoring the comments on this video as it's a little old, but when removing your oil filter use a larger zip lock baggie to put around your filter when removing will keep the mess to a minimum. Just be careful not to let go otherwise it can be extremely messy.
Thanks , I used to change my Cummings fuel filter every other oil change . But it just cost 10.00 and took maybe 5 minutes. This ford cost 75 and will take a while to change it seems with 2 of them
Your truck sits really tall so that you can get under it without ramps, makes changing oil a little easier. I had a Chevy wagon with the vertical filter way in the back, I always spilled some trying to get it out.
Nice video. It empowers me to do my own oil changes. I was thinking you would use teflon tape on those treads for gate valve but I know very very little about auto mechanics. I am a cabinet maker / trim carpenter and metal doesn't agree with me. Unless I am shown so I don't have to learn every step the hard way. Thanks again
Thanks, it's super easy and a big money saver. No Teflon tape necessary. The valve has a rubber o-ring built into it to create a leak-proof seal. You can just see it if you look closely.
Real question is with these stay in your car $30 oil changes are we even saving money ? I am a heavy equipment tech and I’ve always done my own vehicles services, but the oil alone usually cost more than the jiffy lube type places now days with their bulk oil and connivence? I ask bc I started sending my wife to get hers done at local lube place simply saves me some time and cheaper I believe .. still won’t let anyone touch one of my cars but myself I just don’t know if it’s cheaper these days good skill to teach your sons/daughters of course but are we saving anything or spending more to do the work at this point ? Love to hear from some of y’all out there who have looked at the numbers
The quick lube places are cheap, but they're setup to gouge in one way or another. Poor quality oil and always pushing some extra service or filters or something. The sign on the front of the building is never what it seems to be.
I've found a trip to Walmart, purchase 13 quarts of oil and a Motor craft filter. I'm only saving $20.00 over a trip to the dealership, and i still have to jack up the truck and rotate the tires. For $20.00 I'd rather let Ford do the entire job. Anyone else want to comment????
To each their own. I hate sitting in that little waiting room wondering if the guy doing the job will screw something up or dent a door panel squeezing in and out of the shop. I do let the tire shop rotate the tires. Mostly though it just comes down to me actually enjoying doing the job. Call me crazy but I still look forward to the little chore.
@@EpicCowlick I feel the same way. My coworkers have asked me why I do my own maintenance when I can have it done for just a little more. When I do it I KNOW what's been done.
I like to change it also. Plus I prefer Schaffers over Motorcraft. My truck runs so much nicer and I get a tiny bit better mpg. I don’t trust dealers, a friend takes his ‘18 F350 to a dealer and we noticed on the last change that they did not change the filter. They changed the oil but not the filter!
@@zfilmmaker that's about right. I have heard of people leaving Walmart after an oil change only to realize that they didn't change it. I just don't trust shops with my vehicles. If I mess it up at least I know who to blame.
@@Brett235 yeah my dealer usually runs a special and then I get a mechanic to do the multipoint also to make sure I'm not missing anything. I pay about the same as going to the auto part store and then i don't get oil all over me and the driveway
That is true with the current Mobil1 oil. The oil used in the video was some of the last pre-CK4 and was actually approved for the Ford 6.7. Weird that Mobil1 won't certify for the Ford spec. I've been using Rotella T6 for the last 3.5 years.
That seems right. I use 5w-40 which is all synthetic. Here in mn all gas stations are bio diesel unless u go to Wisconsin. So you cannot use 10-30 with biodiesel....according to the book 15-40 which is convention or 5-40 which is best for al temperatures and driving conditions. Love the videos
Yeah you would think I would have learned my lesson on my first attempt at changing the oil on my SD. The first time I wasn't expecting it to shoot out that fast or far 😀 The second attempt I was ready for the stream off oil but, I used the oil pan you said not to use and had another mess to clean up 😜 Now I see you video and think only if I had seen this sooner!! Thanks for doing these videos. ~Allen
I was going to make a video myself , and just seen yours . Very nice and detailed simply put. great job, one thing I did not see coming ,or like may be the addition of the easy drain plug. great in theory ,but need to check oil with a mag once drained . there is supposed to be a small magnet on the tip of drainplug to alert of metal in oil from excessive wear or problems . thank you, I do not have to make video myself.
There's lots of us who prefer doing it ourselves. So many positives like not having to drive to the lube place and wait around hoping no one dents your door or strips the oil pan plug, it's cheaper, knowing it was done right with the oil I want, etc. About the only part I find a pain is taking the used oil to the recycler.
@@danawf9925 not a king ranch or a platinum. just an 18 xlt here. for 120 the dealer does oil change plus tops off def. for 200 they do oil change top off def and change fuel filters. i used to do my own but i broke my neck a few years back and dont have enough range of motion to do it anymore. and plus i hate getting rid of the used oil.
I put that value on my truck what a life saver. 2' hose to a 5 gal pale no mess for the pass 3 oil changes thanks for that idea. P.s. are u still doing videos
Epic, a couple of things. First, thank you for the very helpful videos. I'm looking forward to seeing the fuel filters changed. As to CK oil, it did not pass the Ford tests--other viewers should proceed cautiously. Second, I'm an old guy and only recently learned that the oil film on the filter gasket is to make the rubber slippery so it doesn't bunch. I always thought it had something to do with sealing (I guess it sort of does.) Regards, JD in TN
@@EpicCowlick according to ford you can run 15w40 if you are above like 7* F I believe is what they say but 15w40 completely okay to run especially in hotter places in the US
When I change oil ,I have a 10gal. tote and take off the filter first letting it drop into the empty tote then drain the engine oil. Very little splash if any. I use Shell Rotalla syn.
It doesn't hurt anything to do that. The problem is that the 2051S filters have a silicone anti-drainback valve that prevents oil in the lines above the filter from draining back into the filter. You can punch a hole and empty the filter but a bunch of oil is still held in the lines above. It's hit and miss. Sometimes you get lucky and everything drains through the filter penetration but other times it's not so lucky. Check my video called "punching the filter" for an example.
In March 2017, Ford recently came out with a new motor oil spec for the 6.7 liter diesel. It’s: WSS M2C171 F1. Unless the diesel motor oil you select states on its label that it meets this spec, you could be harming your engine. This last time I checked, Mobile 1 does not comply.
That's true. The oil used in this video was the last of my inventory of pre-CK4 spec. It was just plain CJ4 full synthetic. And yes, I don't understand why Mobil1 won't meet the Ford spec or why Ford won't approve it. Who knows? Regardless, I used Rotella T6 when I ran out of Mobil1 and have been since. All good.
always good entertaining.. haha.. cheers Oh, I recommend safety wiring that quick change lever in the closed position. Avoid possible disaster, or sabotage.
I hear you. It's a little disconcerting having that thing so accessible. But that's the whole point of the valve after all. The valve has a pretty stiff spring and a metal indentation that the lever sits in. It takes a very specific motion to move it.
After watching Cowlicks videos I've done all my own oil changes since new I've used Rotella T-6 and the Best Royal Purple filter....also I added the fantastic FOMOTO quick valve... Another Cowlick exclusive indeed....humor me I change oil every 3500 miles....my 2017 F-250 6.7 is stored Winters and waxed often. I am blessed in retirement... again high five to Cowlick....
Rotella T6 is now approved for the Ford 6.7L. It's good oil. And that valve is really easy and works best when the oil is HOT. Drains much faster. Changing oil at 3500 miles is a bit overkill but to each their own. I'm with you in that changing oil and waxing often is just plain old fun!
Drain valve is handy, the oil drain plug has a small magnet in it, or used to, to catch any metal fragments in the oil. One check for early issues of engine issues. I know major flakes will be seen in the oil, point is to find it before it’s enough flakes to see in the oil.
This is the reason a magnet is placed on the bottom of the pan close to the drain valve. It holds the tiny wear particles before flushing. It's not as convenient as looking at the bottom of the plug but you can let the oil settle and see how much metal is in there.
Did that on the last oil change due to a comment like yours. It was awesome. In 30 years of oil changes, I never figured that out. Hard to change old habits I guess. From now on, FILTER FIRST!
thats too much like work. ill continue to take mine to the dealer for 120 dollars they change the oil and top off my def. id love to do it myself but im lazy and i dont like getting rid of the old oil. cool video though. 2 thumbs up.
Great video! I gotta ask, how tough was it to move on from your 2011 Super Duty? I liked your customization videos and was 'mirin that Titan Tank and On-Board Air.
There was a little bit of anxiety letting it go. It was setup just the way I needed it but the 2017 gives me a chance to do it all over again. It's an amazing piece of engineering.
I got rid of a 2015 KR for the 17. I loved the 15 but something just kept it from feeling " complete". I drove all three major brand diesel's and the Nissan. The Nissan took less than a mile to dismiss. I can say in my opinion, this is the closest thing to a "complete" truck I've been in and FINALLY a 48 Gallon tank
Check my channel for a video called "Punching the oil filter". Problem is, it doesn't work every time, maybe less than a third of the time. I gave up on that. It sure was great when it worked though.
The concept of these drain valves is ok but I don't use them. One reason is they don't allow all the oil out of the pan with the bottom of the opening higher than the bottom of the threaded hole in the pan.
I know this is an older video, but I wanted to say thank you for sharing. I installed the EZ Drain Valve, and am quite excited to have an easy change next time. I am forward to more of your videos!
Anything is possible, but with the millions sold, you'd think there would be stories of quick valve carnage all over the internet. I'd say the odds are in favor of them. I've found the best thing is being able to change oil when it's really hot. If flows very fast and it's pretty easy.
I wouldn't trust a valve with the life of my engine because if that leaks you have problems, if it gets smashed or damaged you have problems and if it somehow opens then it could ruin the engine. I'll stick with a standard plug.
No problems at all. I've learned that it's best to change oil when the engine is at full operating temp when the oil is at about 190 degrees. It drains much faster through the tube. About a third the time of when the engine is cold.
API CJ-4 is a general type of oil meant for diesel engines. Ford's requirements are specific for the high horsepower 6.7L engine and listed on the WSSM2C171F1 spec sheet. Notably absent is Mobil1's 5W40. Shell's Rotella T6 is approved and available almost everywhere. It's a good, relatively cheap oil.
I take my used transmission fluid and oil to some mechanic who worked on one car I had. He has a waste oil burner and he is a friendly mechanic who takes it for heat in the winter. All that he asks is that there is no coolant or anything weird in the oil and so I just don't add anything funny to it.
When it comes to cars like my Volkswagen they used to call for 5w40 but now the same engine for some strange reason calls for 5w30. It really isn't that strange if you know that the EPA has something to do with it, lighter oil to reduce fuel consumption. I always use 5w40 and never had any ill effects at all. A lot of times you can get away with using a slightly heavier oil and some people who do say that the engine runs smoother too. I am not sure if those ones made a switch to or from synthetic but they do say it runs smoother after that.
I never punch holes in the filter cuz if it's tight as hell.you just ruined the area too put a wrench and get it to bite on the filter.once you mess up that flat surface it's a bitch too get your strap wrench or your oil filter tool too get it off
Mobil1 is not on the list. The oil used in the video was the last of the old approved formulation. Can't get it anymore. I've been using Rotella T6 for the last 4 years.
That easy drain plug looks like a bad idea. God forbid that valve leaks or somehow gets opened accidentally you'd be in a world of hurt. Plus, I like the oil to come gushing out so it drains the sediment as good as possible.
All fair concerns but time has proven the opposite. There are a few internet stories of failures or leaking but when compared to the hundreds of thousands (maybe millions?) sold, odds are clearly in favor. Pretty sure OEM bolts get cross-threaded by a factor of a thousand more often. Chances of knocking it off when it sits horizontal and behind the pan are pretty slim. As to the flushing, the faster and higher volume of the OEM bolt has to be better. I've learned to change oil when it's HOT, HOT which drains pretty fast. Use of a magnet on the pan close to the drain is probably better than the OEM plug. Everyone has to make the call for themselves. I've weighed all that and now have a couple of years to side with the valve. I have one on every car in the household now.
@@EpicCowlick Another thing I like to do is write the mileage and date on the new oil filter with a magic marker. But of course you entered it on the computer. Guess, I'm old school.
Thank you for doing the video. When resetting the computer it just resets. Does it give you an option to set the number of miles to be notified for your next change?
After an oil change, the computer must be reset manually. The oil change warning is calculated based on how a person drives including idle time, percentage of fuel in oil, etc.
I have a question about the Oil Life Monitor. Is there a place you can see where the Oil Life Monitor is currently at? Like 15% left? I have a 2017 F350 DRW Lariat. I have 6000 miles on the truck and have never got the alarm to change the oil.. Kinda making me wonder if my truck has the monitor.
The truck does not show oil life remaining on the standard screens. You can get monitoring software like FORScan or Torque Pro and use an OBDII bluetooth adapter to see exactly that and much, much more.
First oil change on a new engine. I'm actually glad Ford puts this early one into the oil change schedule. All the rest have been in the neighborhood of 8,000 miles.
I would worry about that easy drain plug getting hit or snagged by some road debris or something if you're offroad and the next thing you know you're sitting there with zero oil pressure and a damaged engine.
It definitely is something to keep in mind. If the drain valve was on the bottom of the pan or exposed, I wouldn't use one. The Ford oil pan has the plug coming horizontally out the back of the pan and is shielded from road debris. It's pretty safe back there. Maybe if a person drives through a lot of brush or high cut corn stalks or the like it would be more of a concern.
Listen to everything and in this video except using anything but motorcraft oil. People have no clue what they are doing, or why they do it! My 19 lariat 6.7 will get NOTHING but motorcraft from the dealer when the dealer does the changes. Why would you spend $76k on a truck and do your own oil change? Lol that’s what worker bees are for. My ford dealer let’s me watch the oil change so why not let them?!
To each their own I guess. If you live in an area where you can't change your own oil is one thing but just to let someone else change it because you have the money? Not much on saving I see.
