Most excellent build video. I'm a diy mech mod vaper, but am actually building a pyrography machine and this video has put me on the right track. I can embed an OKY T/10-D12P-C in a 10A car battery charger and more or less use this video as a build reference. Until now I hadn't been able to find a dc-dc converter that was close to the right range of voltage and amperage (0-3V, 0-7A). The overcurrent and over temperature features are great too. Hadn't heard of Maruta before this so thanks : )
You can use any chip/board that can take +12V input, any PWM that supports 3s (3 cells in series) should work fine. I'm not sure about the 50A, 1100W part of the question though, if you can find a pcb that can handle 50A, @ 12V that's 600W...
First you'd need a bigger enclosure, your 2 batteries would need to be in series because the OKR chips require a minimum ~5v input but other than that you just wire the +/- from the batteries where the +/- from the PSU is wired in this video. I also omitted a few components that you would probably want if you use batteries, the zenner diode for under voltage protection, a P-Channel Mosfet for reverse polarity protection and some fuses. Check out the OKR-T10 wiring diagram for a general idea on the placement of these extra components, analogboxmods.ca/files/wiring_diagrams/AnalogBoxMods_OKR-T10_Wiring_Diagram.jpg , only difference is that you'd want to use bigger fuses, 2x 12A or 15A instead of the 2x 5A shown in that wiring diagram.
Hi Rama, I have not measured the voltage drop, I have not noticed any but I don't vape very hard. This passthrough uses the OKR-T30 chip which can handle 30A.
Great video .. can I use 5v from the power supply? directly to 510 connection with fire switch considering ohm law ohm will be from 0.27 to 0.6 so current wont exceed 20amp?
If the +5V rail on your PSU can handle 20A, then sure. I'd recommend using a mosfet to isolate the fire switch from the load, that way you can use pretty much any switch, otherwise a switch rated for 20A will probably be big, ugly and expensive :).
Hi, great video! I would like to know what tool it is that you use to mount the 510 connection, the one you screw into the 510 - and where do you get it from?
What does the OKR-T30 do in this use ? I have a DC-DC 5V-40V to 1.2-36V buck converter adjustable power module which is rated up to 200 Wats but only 8 Amps. I thought I could add the DC-DC module in the loop and house it in the PSU with just cables coming to the atomizer's 510 adaptor. I have a feeling that something is missing but i can't figure out what. I've done a lot of micro-soldering and worked on electronics for 3 years but sometimes you just get stuck. -Thanks!
The OKR-T30 is a DC-DC buck converter too, it takes the 12V input from the PSU and regulates the output between 3V to 6V for the 510. In this case the voltage regulator, the OKR-T30, is in the mod but you could put your regulator in the PSU as you are describing and run the output straight to the 510.
The dc convertor youre talking about sounds like this xl-4016 or something like that, the chip will drain the capacitors leaving a max passthrough of wattage dropping your voltage, i tried to make a vv series dual 18650 mod maxed out at 3.8 volts on a 0.6 ohm build
The resistor values will be the same whether you use a PSU or batteries. Check the "Output Voltage Adjustment" section on page 15 of the OKL-T20 datasheet, there is a formula and a table that shows the relation between the resistors and output voltage, power.murata.com/data/power/okl2-t20-w12.pdf. First notice that the higher the resistance, the lower the output voltage and the lower the resistance, the higher the output voltage... so the pot/trim resistor will be wired in reverse, when the dial is at 100% the trim resistor will actually be providing ~0 resistance and when the dial is at 0% it will be providing the full resistance value of the pot... this is the same for all the OKR/OKL boards so use the same pins on the pot as I did in the video. Now for the values, when the pot is at 100%, we want the max output voltage available which is 5V and the table shows us that we need 1.6Kohm resistance, but we said earlier that when the pot is at 100% it would produce 0 resistance... this is what we need that inline non-variable resistor for, to limit the max ouput, so where I used a 220ohm inline resistor for the OKR-T30, you will need a 1.6Kohm resistor for the OKL-T20, when the pot is at 100% and providing 0 resistance, that inline resistor will be adding 1.6kohm limiting the output voltage to 5V. For the trim resistor value, it depends what you want your MIN output voltage to be, most people aim for ~3V, that is not a value pre-calculated for us in the table but we can use the formula shown to figure it out R = 6.9 / (Vout - 0.69). 6.9 / (3 - 0.69) = 2.98Kohm (let's round that up to 3Kohm) . Then subtract the constant 1.6K the inline resistor is providing, 3K - 1.6K = 1.4K . In the video, for the OKR-T30, I used a ~200ohm pot/trim resistor but for the OKL-T20 you will need a 1.4Kohm pot/trim resistor. With a 1.4K trim resistor, when the pot is at 0% and providing the full 1.4K resistance plus the 1.6K inline resistance, you'll have a total resistance of 3Kohm which will set the output to 3V. With the pot turned to 100% and providing 0 resistance plus the 1.6K inline resistance you'll have a total 1.6K resistance which will set the output to 5V.
Analog Box Mods thank you very much. I hope I understood. Two more questions. -From the power supply to the board do I need any ohm resistor? -If the power supply gives 50 amp to the 12 v cables, and if I connect 4 chips (mods) the amp are divided? Or I need something to lower the amp so that the board receives only 20 amp. Sorry tho bother you with so many questions. I just don't want to blow up my face.
For the devices, if you are using the OKL-T20, those can handle 100W/20A, and we know the max output voltage is 5V, just don't build coils that would exceed that, 5V / 20A = 0.25, don't build coils lower than 0.25ohms and you'll be sure that each device will never draw more than the 20A they can handle even at full power. For the PSU, use one that can handle the max power of all devices just in case, even if you don't plan to use all devices at max power at the same time. Now 20A @ 5V for the output will actually draw less than 20A from the 12V PSU... 20A @ 5V is 100W, but 100W @12V is 8.33A, because the input voltage (12V) is higher than the output voltage it will draw less Amps for the same output power (Watts). If you plan to run 4x OKL-T20 devices which are ~100W each, make sure you use a PSU that can provide at least 4x100W on the +12V rail, so 400W, and 400W @ 12V is 33.33Amps.
Normally the 5v rail on newer ATX PSU's are not rated for very much current but I saw your comment on reddit where you said it could handle 50A, which should be fine. You'll want to use a mosfet to isolate the fire button from the "load" path, like this, analogboxmods.ca/files/wiring_diagrams/AnalogBoxMods_Dual18650-Unregulated_Wiring_Diagram-series.jpg. I wouldn't even bother with the fuses.
I know it sounds like a lot, but you should have kits so people can buy all the parts in bulk from you on your site. That way people can buy 3-4 kits and know they have all the right parts from the man who designed it.
If there is +12v (yellow) and a GND (black) on what you connect it to in the pc, yeah. Molex has a single +12v wire though, usually 18AWG, if you vape hard you might want to connect to something with at least 2 yellow and black wires to distribute the load between them. Like the 6/8 pin PCI-E connector or the 4 pin 12v CPU connector, assuming they are not in use.
Yes. You can add optional 5.6v Zener diode for low voltage cutoff, a P-Channel mosfet for reverse polarity protection and fuses, which are not needed when using a PSU. analogboxmods.ca/files/wiring_diagrams/AnalogBoxMods_OKR-T10_Wiring_Diagram.jpg
