Someone just gave me a bunch of stuff out of his shed he was clearing out 2 days ago. One of the things he gave me was a 1979 Homlite Super XL Automatic. When I got home I opened the tank it was empty, I added mixed fuel and the saw started right up and ran perfect. I had the opportunity to use it yesterday and it cuts like butter. 58cc plenty of power, I love it. Only thing that needed to be done was to tighten the chain a little. It was still pretty sharp. I'm keeping that saw and now I'm going to sell this almost new 42cc Craftsman the guy working at the sears repair center gave me, it was returned after being purchased because the carb was set to lean, I have the screwdriver to adjust them. Its true the new saws, are no match for the old ones and if you need to adjust the carb, its a flat head. Its in pretty nice cosmetic shape too, only some paint loss on the chain side where the logo is, common. No brake on the old saws though and I'm mechanically inclined, I was expecting to have to do some repairs on it, the fact it just started right up and I went cutting with it the next day was a bonus, I guess the guy did not know or care what he was getting rid of..... I'll own that saw the rest of my life and I'm 32 so that should be a good long time god willing and pass it down when the time comes.
I don't know why people think "newer is better" with power equipment. These vintage saws are much tougher and they are totally repairable and restorable.
@Dave Allen Try Echo CS390ESX, the build quality and reliability is outstanding. I havent seen anything like this, ever. Interchangeable side transfer ports... Never seen such stuff on any other saw. As big stihl fan... I sold my 260 to buy that little saw. What suck about that saw are plastic the side covers, but thats all. Light and perfectly balanced for cheap sugihara bars that actually last well.
Amen! You couldn't have been more spot on with this video! I still swear by the Homey's, Mac's and the old poulan's. These old saws where some of the best American saws ever built bar none!
Bought one of those Poulans, used it a couple of months, then one of my druggie neighbors decided to liberate it from my shed, I was almost glad they did. Bought a Stihl MS271, and I love it.
I bought one of those Poulans years ago when I first started heating with wood. First saw the oiler didn't work, so I exchanged it for another. Second saw, the whole thing seized up solid after about 20 cuts. I remember thinking at the time, "crap, I forgot to mix the fuel!", but there was the empty container of 2 stroke mix that came with the saw, so I knew that wasn't the case. I took it back, got a refund and bought a new Stihl MS310 that I still have today. Had I known then what I know now, I would have bought an older pro saw, but it's not like you just wake up one morning and know which saws are worth having and how to fix them. So, unless he's really mechanically inclined, I'd probably advise a woodcutting newb to just man up and buy a decent new saw to start with.
No warm ups huh? Love the old McCulloch, homelite, stihl, echo, even the Poulan. Regardless what brand I won’t buy any saw unless it’s pre 90s. Having an old saw is like having a muscle car. Simple reliable and easy to fix if you know where to get the parts.
@@ronvonbargen8411 Hearing overrated anyhow. You get to tune out crying unruly children and nagging wives. I have 5 of those old XL 12 homelites and three of them are blue.
I picked up two saws that were on a Facebook marketplace page two weeks ago and both are running today. New fuel lines and carb kit got the Homelite C-51 going and the Solo 611 only needed a carb kit. Total for both saws and new parts- $130. They fit right in with my Pro Mac 10-10 that I bought new in the mid 1980's.
My wife's uncle gave me a 1981 Poulan S25 CVA that he bought new, and used once. I replaced the fuel line and air filter. It's a 38cc and cuts better than new 45cc saws,
The one downside of the old saws is the lack of kick back guard. I tell you what my old jonsered 520sp is still a really mean saw. i think I have $10 in that thing on a carb kit and fuel line. Just wondering what chains you are running. Full chisel ? Another great video. Thanks for sharing!
I cut with Poulan saws for years. I had 3400 and 3700Cvpro stylePoulans and they were as reliable as any of my newer Stihl saws. I had a 395 Poulan that went with me everywhere on the tractor. It had an 18” bar and cranked every time with one pull. I can’t count the number of times it fell off the tractor or fell in a mud hole or creek, yet cranked up every time I pulled the rope. Now,these were not the junk that Husqvarna markets through the big box stores, today. My Poulans were metal saws of the Pro design. They were as good as any Pro saw made by Stihl or Husqvarna. I have a MAC PM610 and and Homelite XL12. They are good saws but heavy as H. I have lot lighter saws that will cut circled around them. My Stihl MS 260 Pro or even my 025 will make them look like they were in slow motion. I do understand what you mean,though.
I recently picked up an old McCulloch from somebody I did some work for. He gave me the option to take cash or the saw as payment for the work so I said what the heck I'll give the saw a shot. Just waiting on my carb kit and fuel lines to come in now. Hope it runs good I have 5 cords of wood to saw up.
I just picked up a free 925 super XL I used a fuel line off of A mini bike I had laying around I put fresh gas in it pulled it over twice and it fired right up the thing is an absolute animal with the original chain and bar that I pick the saw up with and the chain was garbage put the saw had so much guts it didn't matter that the chain was whooped I also just got my grandfather's McCulloch mini Mac 110 and my grandfather was so good at keeping his stuff nice the sauce at in the garage since I was about 10 years old I'm 30 now I put fresh gas in it I left the original spark plug alone I never touched a fuel line or anything pulled it over a couple times and that also fired right up it's smoked like a bitch when it did fire so I'm assuming somebody put Marvel Mystery Oil down the cylinder and into the fuel tank and fresh gas was all it took after 20 years of sitting
Great Video! I am a firewood cutter who seems to accumulate saws every time somebody finds out I like the old ones. My favorite so far is the 925 Homelite running a 28” bar. It boils the gas in the tank like they all did, but it still runs great. These old saws are much more saw than most suburbanites can handle. I had a neighbor with one of the little big box saws and he scared me with it every time I was able to get it running for him. I would never want him to handle the 925. The people who are buying these big box saws run them for a half a tank of gas a year. They then put them away until the next limb falls two years later. Guys like me come to the rescue and clean them up enough to run again. In all honesty, the average home owner the cheap saws are produced for would be better off finding someone to saw things up for them, or buying an electric saw that would run any time they plugged it in.
mcycle12 Think I agree... certainly agree relative to the SXL925's. I had a few of that class and even now when I run one they ALWAYS cut better than I expected.
aside from the hunk of plastic, nice looking iron you had out. I'm an old mac lover, I have 4 of them. They've been running for the 40 plus years and will go at least another 40. considering that 300.00 was spent on all of the combined brand new ya just can't beat that. I love hearing that mac she sounded great keep her in the wood.. that's what she was made for.
I don't own anything as old as your saws. But I recently picked up a Homelite 290 from the 80's. Back when even Homelites plastic saws were still good. I got it from a second hand shop that deals in a lot of old stuff for $40. It has loads of compression but it is a bit scrubby, so she needs a bath. I also picked up a nice Stanley No. 3 wooden level, some old Bonney combination wrenches and a few old US made Nicholson files. :)
Right on the Stihl Ultra and I do not run anything but premium, non ethanol, even in my 4 cycle stuff. For an extra 50 cents per gallon the problems that E-10 causes is worth the extra cost. I mix my fuel as close as I can to 50:1. I guess I am actually running about 48:1 at 75ml per gallon of gas. When i switched my husky saws to Ultra I had to lean out the L side to keep them lit. I would like to run Citgo Snow and Sea but I cannot find a local supplier for it. It is a full synthetic two cycle oil, too. Husqvarna XP is a blend oil.
So is there any cylinder and piston “maintenance” that might be prudent on these old saws to maybe take some of the built up carbon deposits off or just run them till they die?
Great Homie 925 & XP1020 you got there.I have a XL924W (same 82cc saw,just a couple years older + its scarce West Coast version with full wrap handlebar/extra large falling spike).Plus a Super 1050 Automatic & Super 1130G ( both are same 100cc as the 1020,just the 1130 is a gear drive monster & they are few years newer. Pretty mean saws but still nothing compared to my Mac 125C,797,795 or the Homie 750 & 2000 Automatic.Closest thing I have to that ProMac 60 is a 57cc mid 70's PM 55.Lots of the parts are interchangeable between at least a dozen 54 to 82cc models of the Mac ''10 Series'' Work safe & have fun out there guys!!
Shhhh not too loud, I have a few older homelites. The best is a 925 that runs a 36" with 404 chain with no problem. Great old saws. Here on the west coast i cut 20 to 40" diameter wood every year for fire wood. And yes I have a styhl 461, husky 371 both with 32" bar and chain, a husky 346xp 20" bar. The 925 will out cut them all. Great stuff you can't beat the older saws for power and durability. MIX YOUR OIL 32 TO 1.
While I can appreciate the quality of the old saws I prefer my newer saws with chain brakes. I keep an old Remington saw next to my boiler for trimming because it will always start, however it makes me nervous every time I use it.
Yes. Not staged for failure. We have nothing but hard wood here. The Ash cuts easy for the Poulan, but hard maple, especially frozen is a challenge. Also the Poulan was completely stock. Those stock "safety" chains are even more of a hurdle for them to work thru.
you are perfectly right about a 4218 Poulan - pure junk. I have a friend who lives behind me that has one. this winter while I was putting some time on an 029 that I rebuilt with a 49mm jug; I heard him knowing down a tree with his Poulan. so I grabbed up my 029 and headed down to his house. he had barber chaired a 12 Inch pecan tree and had it hung up in another tree, so I had to get it on the ground before it could be safely cut up. by then his Poulan would not even restart and the chain was so dull it would not cut hot butter, so I offered my help and finished cutting down the tree and bucking it up with my 029. it mowed through that pecan like it was made of hot butter and I was through in about 30 minutes. I can still hear the 029 laughing at that Poulan. 65 cc's is a lot better than 42 any day of the week and even though the 029 had a Carlton chain on it - it flew through that pecan tree. I could have cut it up a lot faster with one of my other Stihl saws but I did not want to possibly damage a good chain in his yard. my other Stihl saws have RS or RM chains on them and they ain't cheap.
i am also from n.y. i collect antique saws mostly 2 man disstons, mercurys and malls i show them at engine and tractor shows around ny great to see someone else in ny that has the old saw bug lol
Reminds me of something that’s been bugging the heck out of me. Well besides all my saws having air leaks at once... Why do the old saws sound so much cooler? Lower, throatier, more burbly vs. the higher, tinny, ring ding ding of the newer saws? Chad Kakac’s videos and my old 49SP made me notice it. Matter of fact, that’s what I bought the 49, like to listen to it.
Poulan have turned into unadulterated junk. Back when I used them (1980’ s). They were good saws. My first two saws, almost 50 years ago, were an identical Mac and blue homelite. Someone stole the Mac from me and I traded off the Homelite on a new Poulan bow saw in the early 1980’s. 3400 as I remember. It was a commercial model with ball bearings, unlike the sleeve bearings found on most saws back then. Neither one had automatic oilers.
Hi Walt name is Russell. I think the 925 Homelite was pound for pound one of the best saws ever made. My dad an gandpa cleared 1000s is acres with thouse old saws
Just got a McCulloch pm605 and I I think it might be as good as my new Remington outlaw. I got 2 extra chains and saw for $30.00! Checked fuel line and inspected it put some new saw gas in and it started right up, guy I got it from told me had been sitting for 3 years. Chain is very dull right now and spares need to sharpened. I was thinking would make a good backup but might be called up to the first string after a good sharpening.
This Is an awesome video I prefer older saw to new ones. I like maintaining them, the brute power and can be very affordable. The sugar shack is great as well a great place to play hard work hard. Thanks for the video!
Ive got plenty of those POS poulan saws. some are craftsman and a couple of wild things. The last one I purchased was at a auction looked new and was in a plastic case. The Auctioneer started trying to get $50 and kept dropping ten dollars at a time. When he got down to $10 I hollered $5. He said sold quick get his bidder number before he changes his mind. I never even tried to see if it ran. I know I have over a dozen of them. I have a PEP boys scooter and its weed eater engine is junk. Im thinking maybe use a poulan saw engine on it? We just posted a video of me making a couple of fence posts using a Homelite 58 CC super XL12 and a 68 CC Lombard.
Nice old saws. I think the homelites have the most potential with a little bit of port work to be absolute bomber. That being said you can buy a a 80s, 90s poulan for less money that will out perform those saws and weigh less. My 4620 which I paid 99 for brand new(display model) will run with or beat them and it is a "junk" poulan. And weighs substantially less. Wouldn't off the shelf, but just took muffler modding, adjusting the jets, 30w for bar oil cause it won't pump enough regular. Chains are a disposable item, I still have my original bar.But to be fair I run a speedcut narrow kerf. Which I think is a common sense upgrade to a 46cc saw. Also replaced the spur with a rim socket. About 20 years for $99, my kind of junk.
Nice saws. I have only had one saw in my life, a Homelite Super 2 that my brother in law bought for his first house, then my dad had it and we used it once or twice, it then sat on his garage floor for 15 years or longer. I got it 5 years ago, put way more money into it than I had to.... $100 and regret tossing the original bar for a new Oregon. Ugh. Regardless, it has paid for itself 20 to 30 times and it makes that sweet sound while cutting when everything is just right. The sound of the XL12 reminds me of the sound. I would like to find some other oldies to refurbish. Great videos.
Right brand motorcycle in your profile pic too! For several years we had the North East Husqvarna Gathering here at the farm, that has morphed into a AHRMA race weekend. Remember one year the BMW folks brought a tractor trailer full of the Husqvarna's of that era both Italian and blended with the BMW Chinese motors..a good day
Oh, that would be fun. I would fancy finding one of the old 70s Huskys. Down here deep in Southern Illinois, half the people don't know what my bike is when they see it.
I just picked up 4 saws at a country auction for $1.00 each. A Craftsman 2.0/14 with a plastic case, a McCulloch... I think it says Mac 6 and the other 2 are Homelites... a big blue one, and a red one that is a bit smaller but is the same style, but I need to get the model numbers. Took the Craftsman apart tonight and will try to fire it soon.
It was as it came out of its packaging. So probably. Remember adding a better bar and chain add to the cost...pretty soon your into the same cost range as 350's, 359's and even 272's and 257's. :)
Oh boy that Poohlan looked like it was teetering on full on cardiac arrest, at the very minimum a grand Mal seizure, a few minor mods and some "decent" chain, they work really good, the problem is consistency, my brother bought one out of home depot doa would not start, upon closer inspection the crank was actually bent out of the box, rubbing slightly on the coil, since his return was denied by home depot it was off to our local landfill with the superredhawk and some spicy 44 magnum to send her off to the happy hunting grounds! 😉
So, of the older saws, what in your opinion would be the ones to look for? What years, what models stand out as "great" saws. I'm looking for a larger saw to use with a chainsaw mill, going to be using at least 36" bar, maybe up to 48"
Hate questions like that because it depends on a lot of other ancillary things. So by era, McCulloch 797 is one I in fact used for milling because of its combination of power and oil pump capacity. Stihl 066-MS660 is another, Husqvarna 395 is yet another mill capable saw. Of course the 3120 is designed for that type of service. I would avoid a LOT of the older saw simply because milling is a high stress situation and you will need parts support. So really the only options are the Stihl and Husqvarna variants in the over 90cc displacement. class where they are current enough that the OEM's still have parts. And as a side comment, for milling the older design 395 is a better pick than the 385/390's from Husqvarna where conversely for every other application the 385/390 would be a better pick than the 394/5 series!
Dad used a pro mac 610, wore it out, got another one, and wore it out, too. I knew of nothing else as a kid - those were heavy saws with no high end rpm - wouldn't want another one, but we heated our house for a decade or so with each. And they were used when he got them. Still don't know what mac was thinking with the design when comparing them to a 10-10 or another saw that can actually go.
I have those Poulan saws stacked up like fire wood in the junk stack. In the summer when it's not and you work them hard they burn up. j picked them up at a pawnshop going out of business cheap but they cost me I. the end. The little XL 12 is a great saw for the weight. I like the XL 12 when cutting seasoned hardwood because they run slower than my big Stihls so they don't burn up the chain.
I have a MAC PM60 and it cuts well but damn it is heavy with a 20 inch bar. That sucker weighs 21.25 pounds. It probably cranks easier than any saw I own. I rebuilt most of the critical stuff on the MAc and I may have $75 in it, including paint. I did get it for nothing, so I am ahead of the game in the cost department.
Great...now I gotta go on the hunt for a 925?... LOL! I love your friggin videos & the shack looks like the spot.... For a few if them Sam Adams's after playing in the wood pile!
I realize this is an old video, but I could use some advice. I’ve been looking at picking up my first saw to gather and cut all my firewood this season. Been looking at Husky 435 or Stihl in same range. My dad gave me his old Homelite 330 from around 1981(same age as me). It’s in good condition but would need some work. I have some mechanical skills but not a lot. Any advice would be appreciated. Great video!
Hey guys..First cool video-enjoyed it. I ran into it searching for Mccoulloch timerbear saw info. I fix small engines for a living and on the side. I got the timber bear to sell and everything works great...except the oiler. Since there aren't a whole lot of spare parts anymore, I was wondering what you knew about that one in particular and any shortcut tests I could make, whats parts are involved etc. I dont want to disassemble anything i dont have to. Thanks, Craig
You know, to anyone who really appreciates a good quality chainsaw... they can easily be compared to someone who really appreciates a special and well made firearm. I loved the performance of the old school and well sought after saws!! I have a McCulloch Pro Mac 610 that was my father's when I was a kid. That baby runs like a champ and I just got done cutting a bunch of firewood for the winter. But I hope this sucker last the rest of my lifetime as I really love it, and there in no saw that would give me more pleasure. This saw has also, sentimental value to it which makes me want to be an expert in caring for it and keeping it in expert professional condition! The old saws are definitely the patriarchs amongst saws!! Thanks for the video... I think I'm going to go fire up my saw for respect's sake!! :)
If my old man's 610 is any indication, you will have it for the rest of your life. He's had that thing for 25-30 years now and it's tank of a saw but never lets ya down. After 20 some years of owning it we did finally track him down a parts saw to fix all the little breakages and now it's a paint job away from like new.
+afleetcommand A budget challenge between you and Bob. You can't spend anymore than the cheapest poulan. And see who has the best saw for the money. I think your fans would love to see that!
Now that isn't even fair....He would never take the AM route...I might, but he has endless suppies of turned in saws that are blown up to be totaled when labor is figured in.....and he doesn't have to charge for that in a hobby competition...cheapest Poulan?? 150 bucks? How about a $180 dollars MS660 kit?? Guess that's not fair either...and to the theme We could go back in time and spend 150 on vintage BIG iron....:)
ever cut a root ball off and it fall back in place ! first time I did it scarred the hell out of me!!I also were a hard hat know after being hit twice with widow makers .also if a old Saw jumps back at ya will hit the peak or brush guard on the hard hat.But I love old saws
I love this video, I've watched it a number of times over the past year. What do you think of old '60s - '70s Poulans? I have one Poulan 245a that I've owned since early August 2016. I was really searching for a Poulan 361 like my grandfather had when I was a kid but I ended up finding this 245a instead, I paid $150 for it. Now I've located another 245a for $50. I had no plans of buying another one due to lack of parts for them, but from what I've seen this is by far the cheapest way to get parts. In the case of some wearables like filters and grommets it's the only way to find them. From outward appearances this saws paint is a lot better than mine at home so we'll have to see if one truely becomes a parts saw or not. Before the $50 saw popped up I'd pretty much figured my hope of doing any work with my saw was gone. Are parts for Macs and Homelite more readily available, if so what's the reason? We're Poulans that far behind McCulloch and Homelite in sales? Did they break more so people just threw them away or did Poulan not continue to supply parts for their models too long after being discontinued? Is it just that too much time has gone by? 37 years for my saw since being discontinued. I think the power to weight ratio of the 245a is fantastic and as you've shown here where displacement is factored how many of todays saws come near that without being $800 or more. I realize my Poulan is driven up in price by lovers of Texas Chainsaw Massacre films and the American Pickers "every piece of junk in my shed is now worth a mint" type mental phenomenon. It burns me to see how many people who don't appreciate these old saws will grab them from yard sales ( "Estate Sales" ....Ebay speak. Ha Ha) and overcharged for them. I guess you can't blame them when people will pay for these inflated prices. Problem for me is I don't live in a heavily wooded area so my stumbling upon a source of old saws close to home isn't likely. I like my old Poulan but if I can't use it's not worh the space it's taking. I read that the parts for these were getting pretty lean, I didn't know there were so few available as to limit the practicality for it being a usefulness tool. I think these Poulans and the other old metal saws are great, they may even be worth $150, but not $250 - $350 that people want for them, especially if you can't use them. Sorry about such a long winded rant. I'm just truely frustrated and I'm wondering even with another saw around of the same model that these are just too rare, if they were ever really worth the effort to begin with and if I should give up for good? P.S. Was stood up like a prom date. Was given this run around while attempting to pick up the $50 saw after literally waiting all day for the seller. A meeting between us got pushed further and further back until I asked "am I taking the saw home tonight" and only then was finally told that someone else had dibs on getting a shot at it and our meeting was being pushed back until they could meet. This after saying for two days that I was interested in it, I wanted to buy it and the seller telling me how to get to his place and nothing about being 2nd in line. Guess he wanted to make sure one of us was going to buy it. Of course now I'm back to square one. I have a 40 year old saw with a cap that spurts fuel like a geyser, an air filter that I can see through, cracked grommets that I hopefully can weld (glue together) and no extra parts if something else breaks. It's back to being this thing that isn't a viable tool that's just taking up space.
Those XL saws are all around great. There kid way on weight but still plenty of cc to cut big logs. We have one that has locked down but still runs great. They run a little slower rpms than my 029 Stihl and on seasond wood the chain stays sharper longer because of the slower chain speed
Found an old XL 12 in my grandfather's cellar I brought it outside put some 30:1 in it 5th crack fired right up he said it has been sitting on that shelf down there for probably 10-15 years touched up the chain a little bit cut Seven Trees not a problem
Good thing to do when you're looking to buy a saw used from a yard sale or something is pick it up and hold it by the Rope if it drops to the ground it's no good if it stands on its rope grab it
I cam to this same conclusion in this video... the hard way. I have a XL-12 that was my fathers and I have been using it for years. I purchased one of those populans at harbor freight for around 100 bucks after discount. I figured.... I could not go wrong for $100... I mean how bad could it be? The poulan will cut wood.... but as said, you have to replace the bar and get rid of that anti-kickback chain. I also had to buy the tool to adjust the carb and had to replace the oil pump, which locked up in the first hour of use. So......... yes it cuts wood.... and I use it for brush and small stuff..... But The homelite will run a circle around it in the large stuff.
As per usual, your videos are outstanding and very enjoyable. I have to ask though, is the Mac Pro 60 stock? Does it have a muffler mod? it seemed to cut noticeably better than the Homelite Super XL. Trying to find out why the Mac was so much quicker through the wood when they are so close in displacement.
Nice video but, one question/comment - different saws, with diff power output, different length bars - so the Poulan wasn't obviously cutting as fast. Were all the chains equally sharp ? Even if they are a longer bar will cut faster because of more teeth and typically a more powerful motor. For ex. I was cutting a stump the other day for my folks with my mint Stihl 034 AV w/ 24 in. bar. However I did not use the saw for several months and hadn't sharpened the chain from last use - needless to say the saws performance was poor at best. But, this was on me and the dull chain, not the saw. So I guess my point is, is that there many factors that need to be considered when comparing. Older saws will be made better - no question - but, for the occasional cutter/homeowner type a Poulan or equivalent can sometimes be fine. I did not pay $700-800 for my saw - which is what today's Stihl equilvalent runs. And I don't have time to tinker with old saws - I'm looking at a Tanaka Top handle next because I don't want to dump almost $400 for an echo. No need for a Stihl or Husqvarna. Unless I can find a mint one for $120.00 like my Stihl - not holding my breath. Like I said just my thoughts. thanks for posting.
I have old saws (who doesn't like the noise and the smoke) and I have a poulan 33cc saw that cuts way better than the 42cc one shown here. Spend the same amount of time (on free mods and a good tune) on the poulan as you do your old saws and you may not be all that disappointed. Difference between the old ones and the new ones is that the new ones should run pretty reliably off the bat and get you cutting sooner......and not cut you sooner (no safety...lol) . It's not all money....but time as well.
In the end, the vintage saws are beautiful, that plastic Poulan will be turned into "sporks" in a quarter century, just use it & abuse it and enjoy the quick starts while it lasts, save the classics for the future cuts.
have a old xl2 on the front of my bike and a XL in the box of my truck! they work great and they won't go out of their way to steal them.I have them given to me .I have a 034 sthil I block and drop my fire wood with and a cheap echo I limb with.Getting older like the lighter saws when .when I can use them .No anti Vibration in the older saws just kills my bad shoulder .I have 8 saws in my can run any time collection and another 3 or 4 I haven't got to yet.PS both my echos leak chain oil bad.Had them in for warrenty they told me that was a normal amount .A tank a mth is normal ya right.pole saw and a echo 310 .
I got my mint Mac 10-10 in trade from my friend for a mid 70s Stihl 015 top handle. And I got the 015 for free. Bought a lightly used 20 in. Mac bar and almost new chain from another Mac collector for 40 bucks. So all in all, I've got 40 bucks into a what is probably at least a $150 saw. And it runs 10 times better than my dad's horde of dump find Poulans, or the computer controlled junk Husqvarna 550XP and 562XP, that my forestry class has. They've got a couple 346s and 357s as well, but I don't particularly like them either.
Great video. I have to agree a little with sfleinen though the Poulan doesn't really seem to be able to "load up" with the given chain. I don't really see a lack of power from it mainly because it doesn't have a decent chain/sharp chain to transfer it into the wood. I realize you're keeping the box store saw as stock as possible but if it's just a matter of putting on a more aggressive chain on it then that isn't much more to add in the way of cost (like the required carb kit for the older saws as mentioned.) Of course, longevity is certainly a question and I would suspect that depends more heavily on the owner than maybe the saw directly. I think the general population has welcomed the idea of a "throw-away" society where we don't spend the necessary time and effort maintaining things, but instead build them for a shorter life expectancy and buy new when it stops working or we want the latest design for instance (why do people purchase new saws if their old Mac works so wonderfully?). A great benefit of this of course is acquiring the latest safety features available which can make one question using the older saws in the first place (like driving old cars). In the end, I don't really want to be the one proud of using an older saw that may clearly outperform a throw-away version at the expense of a injury that may ultimately leave someone maimed for life. I'm a big proponent of the older equipment but I'm not fully convinced it is the right thing to hold on to given the time commitment and the inherent life styles the average person lives today - we don't all want to be chainsaw mechanics even if we are given the mechanical aptitude to do so. Maybe it would be better to spend time with our families and opt for an occasional new throw-away unit instead of filing points or de-gumming a carburetor which is apparently more of a problem now than during the oldie-chainsaw hay-day. In general, I agree with your conclusions in the context you presented them but the argument needs to be fully considered in both directions. Keep up the great work :)
IlikeurtractorOk..I'll bite as this is a derivative of reality vs. a hypothetical discussion for me. I think the first thing you need to understand is my wife works right along side of me in the woods. And I have raised six kids on our family farm. They also were a part of the activities that included tinkering with old equipment as that was all we could afford and was educational as well. And all were involved with "dangerous things" like motorcycles, horses, tractors, farm equipment and general farm work. We all survived. They are much more capable as a result of their experience learning to live and work around such things. And we certainly had our bumps and bruises. They understand risk from a real life perspective vs. the theory of things. And as I put in one of my subsequent video's, rationalizing a throw away home owner saw vs. any other option based on safety is simply BS. As I discussed, when an inexperienced or smaller person is involved, a SAFE approach is to get the absolute best saw in a given size class available, do proper instruction. and buy the BEST PPE's available. If you went that direction we would be in 100 percent agreement... what is the price for safety?? A Husqvarna 543, a variety of Echo's, Dolmars, etc that are lighter, easier starting, better throttle response, better components in the chain brake, etc. are a much safer option..period. Also since the person most likely to want a cheap homeowner class saw is inexperienced AND price driven...where do you think a Helmet and Chaps fit on their priority stack? I would argue the those cheesy chains, bar tip guards, and flimsy chain brake parts along with a host of things are actually more dangerous as they give a new user a false sense of security and are more awkward to use creating additional hazards.. And I seriously doubt anyone in the market for a cheap small saw for the "Little Women" or for that bush that needs a limb cut off would ever select a grungy old 25lbs Homelite 925 .. period, therefore unlikely to be exposed to one of those monsters. The ones typically who watch this and understand the humor are going to be enthusiasts or someone looking for a little entertainment relative to chainsaws & or farm life. AND therefore relatively experienced with a variety of equipment. I would argue that experience and proper education along with good quality PPE's are way more effective deterrents to injury than any safety device on a homeowner class saw. TO the time spent & bottom line discussion...I'm actually expressing a little of my own experience as when I first bought this farm, my 925 and 903 did ALL the heavy tree work. Everything from firewood to milling planks and beams for horse stalls and barn repairs. I eventually got a Husqvarna 365..but still found myself reaching for the 925 for the real critical work. Eventually I replaced those old saws with first Jonsered 920 & 2094's, then with Husqvarna 372's. But in those early years my budget didn't allow for the new saws but the work still had to happen. Guess what, the work got done and I survived. Twenty Throw Away Homeowner class saws wouldn't have been able to do the work in the time my one 925 accomplished those tasks. And I bought it for $25 bucks and put another $100 in parts, bar, and chain into it to get started. Several thousand board ft. of planks later, countless cords of fire wood, fence posts etc. later and it was still producing valuable results. So... no. There is absolutely no scenario where a home owner class saw would make any sense at all here. :) I do thank you for following this crazy life of ours and engaging in conversation.
afleetcommand Well said. Guess what showed up at my doorstep today? A 1961 Wright C70 with a 42" bar. I guess "if you can't beat 'em, join 'em"! I have a 1963 McCullogh 380 also coming in the mail, and I'm picking up a Sears Barracuda (Roper 3.7) from the late 70s tomorrow from a local guy on Craigs. I mean, I watched your video so I must have had some interest right? Sometimes I need to play the "Devil's advocate" because I do worry about the safety aspect and this was a great opportunity to use this as a sounding board. One thing I learned pretty quickly today with the Wright is that I'm sure out of shape :( I'll admit that working on them is a lot easier physically than using them! For a 54 year old saw I must admit that it deserves a hats off from me since it works as well as it does. Not as snappy as a newer one, but probably one reason it's still around and kicking. I'm sure the non-EPA friendly oil mixture might have something to do with it also :)
Ilikeurtractor Guess you had me on that one! congrats on those old saws, especially the wright. Wish I could video that one in action! I have an old McCulloch 660 gear drive, its 92cc's and runs better than I had anticipated as well. For me the saws have replaced Dirt Bikes as my pass time. AND the house gets heated...and a few bucks earned as well selling the timber.
Yes the old saws were great. not the plastic POS you buy in a home improvement stores today. I have an echo which is good for me paid good money for it very reliable. still have my dad's old Remington saw from 1976 and it still runs and cuts . I remember when Homelite about 30yrs ago was a top of the line saw very well built. Poulan is a throwaway saw fixed one for a buddy of mine nobody stocks parts got them on Ebay (oil pump) and now Homelite has joined the Ranks of JUNK SAWS just remember this simple rule when shopping for a Chainsaw Homelite , Poulan, Ryobi, HPR ( Has Problems Return ) Sthil, Echo, Husqvarna SEH ( Simple Effortless Hard working )
I just bought a West German Stihl 034 AV in perfect working order with original Stihl Gas/Tool can for $150 off Craigslist! This is still one of the best saws ever made and is on par to the pro new stuff of today. Don't buy the big box store stuff. Good video guys
+Glenn Davis I also own a Stihl 034 in mint condition and have read by many Stihl experts that it may be one of the best models Stihl ever made. Now they're manufactured in the U.S. still good quality not sure if they're as good as their "West German" ancestors - One question though does your saw ever seem to run hot under heavy use ? Great find you made on craigs - I've seen a ton of beaters for $200 + w/ no bar or chain included - not sure what people are thinking...
+Grumpy olMan I've been doing a bunch of research on the old 034 and 036 - they seem to be one of the very best ever built - for me it's like the perfect size. I also bought a completely gone through 034 with an 036 pro top end with 20 in bar. It's a real torque monster - perfect saw. I did however pay $350 for this one (only had two tanks since rebuild) - These are really, really great saws. Some were saying that they are probably the highest power to weight ratio saws made. The only real negative thing I have read about these two models is the small sized clutch needle bearing. These can grenade over time and ruin the crank (more prone to if the operator blips the throttle constantly under no load - like a kid on a two stoke dirt bike) - So I upgraded mine with a $35 kit (basically it's the clutch assembly from the 044 - has larger bearing, clutch / cover and floating rim 7 tooth sprocket. Part number 1125 007 1041 Mine both run cool and don't overheat. Have you checked your high speed jetting? This may be why its overheating - what mix ratio are you using. I tend to blend 40:1 to 45:1 - a bit more oil will allow these to live a bit longer for our grandchildren - hahaha I also use a full synthetic (HP Ultra) - and try to use Non-E fuel. I won't use fuel over three months as the octane rating degrades and can cause detonation. Also, what kills a lot of saws is when guys limb with lots of revs constantly - these saws really like to be loaded up to work and then they live a long life.
Oil I've been using is Echo Semi-Syn - mixed 50:1 and Chevron 92 Oct. I'm thinking I may have it adjusted too lean but, not 100% sure - my hand starts to burn up near the brake - so exhaust is coming out too hot. Have used in temperate weather - between 70 - 75 degrees. - Need to get a tach - it has not been ported - it is completely stock - compression is so tight I can only start it on the ground and I'm a big enough guy. The clutch kit sounds like a great upgrade. Thanks for including that info. Any other suggestions?
I would definitely give your high speed jet a 1/4 to 1/2 turn out (counter clockwise) before using it again. Also - just to check, put a small screwdriver in the H screw and use a Sharpie to make a mark on the screwdriver - now count the turns in until seated. - It needs to be about 1 turn to 1-1/2 turns most likely. I believe these saws ran about 1-1/2 turns out. - when its warmed you can adjust by ear from there with some full speed runs, it should be 4-stroking / blurb-ling when set correctly. If it still runs hot you have a leak someplace. Most likely the carb boot, gas line, base gaskget (check the torque on these head bolts, sometimes the rattle out and cause a leak) - also last would be crank seals. Also, on these models, guys rip holes in the carb boot when they get the saws stuck in big wood and start yanking on the handle. Also, check the obvious- plug is tight.
Nice video verry good points and I know your points I got first Homelite xl2 auto in trade for 223 bullets and got running first time in 30 years and its a 1976! 😁 And I see your also from NY where at? I'm from Auburn 20 minutes west of Syracuse. Thanks for the video hope to hear from you
afleetcommand no shit cool that's about 30 minutes away sorry I didn't reply back as fast I was playing with the saw I got questions my Facebook is William Fayette or you can call I just don't putting my number online
Agree...working in PPE's into my video's ONE thing I want to try and do is get Chainsaw related PPE's as relevant in the saw community, especially the "casual" user; as motorcycle gear is in the motorcycle community. GOING to take time! But I want to find and display better than average gear and also make it a more popular topic of conversation...its a BIG issue with me.
ya ebay, had i known what coil it was they had one in October last year. to bad i didn't know what coil it was. but it seens to run and just not idle. but that's what i was told buy the service bloke that it needs a coil. my theory was the ignition lead so i put electrical tape over the ignition lead. i think that helped. but yeh im gonna keep my eye out on the internet. im in australia so maybe a little bit harder to get in contact with them. i appreciate the advice you blokes give us, cheers
found a coil on ebay that looks the same only white instead of brown, otherwise looks the same. not sure weather will work or not. maybe worth a gamble.
Very true. And the use of PPE's such as a good set of Chaps and Helmet help but a good chain brake is one of the most important advances in chainsaw design.
i know a family whose little boy was crushed playing in the hole of falling tree. As his older brother was cutting the top out of the tree. The root ball came back up as did your tree. Spread the word, very dangerous.
+Noel Albert Preachin to the choir there... actually there is a you tube video you might want to find where they video the actual event and its funny to them...scary as hell when you think of the physics
If you notice he did not work the Poulan chain saw like the others. It seems pretty bias on that first cut but that is just me. I have a Poulan, Homelite and a Hasqvarna 266XP.
+Razza Berry I didn't give the Poulan much chance, that's true. You have to ask yourself is the same situation with the same saws to pick from would U pick the Poulan??... I have hopped them a bit but honestly much rather work on other saws for a lot of reasons. There is a guy who's channel is something like "cheapsaws" who really has made those Poulans run well and that has been a focus for him. I happen to prefer Husqvarna's and I like those old Homelites. No particular logical reason, just do. And that 266xp is a kick ass saw btw...:) Those and 268's are just really nice saws.
+afleetcommand thanks for your honesty and I certainly notice the difference in performance with my saws. My Husqvarna 266xp out performs the Poulan 33cc and Homelite 38cc saws easily so no argument there. My only point is I know how badly the Poulan performance is at that angle because they do not handle the cut at that angle with grace. To your point it doesn't matter because they are not structured to handle heavy use. I love using the older saws because the quality is without question and they were absolutely built to last. Your video is a celebration of this quality and not about an alternative. I get it.
+afleetcommand I would like to know your opinion of the bow saws. I was offered one from a friend who repairs them as well as all things gas powered. he stated they were dangerous and maybe outlawed. What is your take on them?
+Razza Berry LOL I ran one as a kid cutting pulp wood. And they are dangerous although I don't know if they were outlawed. Would be a great saw for a collection. Not certain I would recommend one for daily use or commercial use. That long distance on the front part of the bow to that "lip" gives a lot of length where a person can get that into something and end up with it in their face...never a good thing. Always needed to push the "lip" or that little guide onto the wood followed by the bow..:)AND I can remember pushing it though a pine /pulp log just to have the log come back together INSIDE the loop causing embarrassing moment for a young and proud teenager.
Well you can say good bye to this Super XL12. Thought I could make it through the last couple passes in a simple soft fir tree, playing with the choke to keep her going. Seized the piston to the cylinder. Yeah I should have my hiney handed to me for that one.
