Old Rusty, The Solex Carburettor 

I swear, this is one of the best educational and practical automotive channels

One of the best tutorials on Solex Thanks so much for the White Board

Here's on Apple for the teacher! Great job explaining how the carburetor functions. Thank you for your videos!! 🍎👌

Steve I find your vast knowledge on so many subjects simply amazing and entertaining

Excellent video , no missing information

absolutely the best description of a solex I have ever seen. 👏

Thanks a lot for this perfect clean illustration

Steve love the White Board.Thank's for the explanation.Knowledge is everything.

I think the way you explain things using the white board is excellent. I enjoyed it even though i already know how a carburettor works. It was interesting to learn that in Belgium even old vehicles need to pass the MOT. Here in England veicles over 40 years old are Exempt from MOT or road tax. Im excited to see Old Rusty run for the first time.

Loved it, especially the white board!

Another great video. Thank you for taking the time to go through the BIC 32. I appreciate the whiteboard for what it’s worth. Nice to see progress on old rusty!

Great video. Best carburator masterclass ever. Thank you.

That brought back memories I haven't work on a carb for 10yrs good explanation good video

Excellent. I enjoy the charts and full explanation so keep up with it, and at the end of the day, it is the process that works for you.

The only real difference between the two carburetors is an accelerator pump is for automobiles that move from idle quicker to get moving. Typically tractors that the engine speed is set by a hand throttle don’t need an accelerator pump. This will work just fine on the old truck. Love your videos and thank you.

brilliant, ive the solex pbISA 32 16 different layout but this made me understand all that i need for my version - excellent work sir!

Thank you a lot! This is really one of the best educational videos about carburetor. And by the way, I love that you are using the whiteboard. I'm also like you, I cannot work on things without an understanding of how these work.

I'm finding this video well explained and hopefully very useful for me 👍

Clear, concise - accurate and systematic - Thank you , UK

Very good clear instruction well done. Very well planned and carried out.

Another great explanation. A pleasure to watch. Your efforts are appreciated by many, I'm sure.

Looking forward to hearing Old Rusted the result of all your effort coming together , being a great ride this far , Bill

One of the best detailed video... Sir plz explain how to adjust bottom ideal(mixture) screw

Thank very much for your important info, much appreciated

this is the best education for carb. thank u for making this VDO.

The whiteboard has so much added value. Thanks for sharing your expertise! Ga zo door.

Brilliant explanation, I totally agree about understanding the workings before attempting the job. Big thankyou, I’m about to attempt a Solex strip down on a Talbot Express. Cheers

nice editing at the whiteboard section , nice clear descriptions.

It's incredible to watch your videos! It's a perfect class! By the way the explanation is made, nobody misses the knowledge transmitted! Detailed, practical, simple! Congratulations and Thank You!

32 AIC carbs,....if they were available on Willys then your best hope would be Willys America in California. Good resource and have always been willing to help me. I am in NS Cda.

Thank you for the video Steve. Consider throttle shaft wear into the Carb. body die cast shite metal, for air leaks in case of bad, lumpy or non-existent idling when the engine runs.

Thank you SO much for this video and the others! This also helps us Traction Avant owners, as we have little to guide us, so dank u!!!! This helps SO much!!! You're my hero!

Another amazing video!! Thank you so much for your time

Many thanks for this one. Your Weber series was my introduction to your channel and I was hooked so it was especially sweet to find this one on Solex-not so many Solex on RU-vid as I have a 35 APIG twin venturi Solex (Alfa Giulietta Spider) awaiting my attention. I'd been lacking knowledge and therefore confidence to finish the project. Thanks to this I can see (I hope) a successful completion for my project. Great stuff-great teacher

great. i have a similar carb on my car (a very poor imitation tbh) and this is really helpful. thanks

Perfectly explained, Well Done. Thanks

Very well done and very educational , you really nailed it

I assumed from the start that sooner or later you might run into a parts issue, just due to age of the motor alone. You really did find a great substitute for that Carb. Another very well presented video, sir. Regards, Solomon

thanks a lot. Great video great explanation, perfect!!!

VERY GOOD VIDEO THANK YOU

Love your documentary of Old Rusty..I hope you will put up another video soon. The classic Mini is cool, but this is by far more interesting...it is why I subscribed to your channel. Thanks

Great job it's so awesome. Cheers Steve 👍 💯 thumbs-up

Hi Steve, I am a self learner. Thanks for these golden videos. Can you please explain diesel injector pumps? There is no single video on youtube that how it works..

Thank you very much..Great tutorial..D

Keep the whiteboards !! I, too, need to really comprehend and understand before I lift a wrench. It's a compulsion. Keep up these awesome videos.

Excellent tutorial as usual.

great job! Thanks!

Gracias muy bien explicado todo 😊

A great video for beginners

best educational 👍👍👍

We have an old Kaiser Willys 4-134 stationary engine (it's on an old saw mill) with a Solex 32 BIC carburetor on it. Our carburetor does not have an accelerator pump. I can understand using a carb without an accelerator pump on a stationary engine. It runs at only a constant 1,500 RPM for sawing wood. Seems that the engine on a truck, without an accelerator pump on the carburetor, will behave poorly every time you push the peddle to the floor. The 32 BIC (or the 32 PBIC), with an accelerator pump, was used as a replacement for the Carter YF on many Willys Jeeps from about 1946 to 1954 and they're common as dirt in my corner of the Pennsylvania woods. Seems like this would be a much better choice for a truck.

You should change that Solex with Weber 32 Icev series carburetor, which were used in Fiat, Zastava, Lancia cars. It seems to me that mounting plates and the base are the same. You can find very easy spare parts for those carbs. And you can find even new Icev carbs to buy on internet.

I have found carb parts for odd types in India. There are lots of little shops in India which carry stock which is very very old. The easiest way to find stuff is to trawl through the teamBHP site in the vintage sections. The only thing you can't take out of the sub continent are whole cars.

Hi "Young" friend I think called "Steve...?" So that's better I don't like addressing myself to any one calling him "heyy You..." So Steve, first I have told you (I think) that I find the best carburetor jets and needles cleaner (removing the varnish) is acetone ! For many assemblies, especially bolts and nuts I use the "Permatex copper spray" very very good like in distributers and also many assemblies.....! Also I asked you to answer me about the " Wynn's products " especially the " super charge " (consistence like honey ) !!! For many years believe me I had excessively good results with that additive !!! I do follow you with great attention because we are (I think) about the same "young " age ....? So please respond to some of my comments --Thank you ! Best regards fro French Guyana !

thanks a lot!

"I couldn't find a replacement carburetor...but I had a E.F.I. setup and turbo charger from a small import 4 cylinder car...this will work" LOL still learning!

This was explained very good and was real helpfull. I have no idea how to adjust the float level. Where/how can I find your video about that ??? Please help ! Greetings from Germany...

Great explanation i ever seen. I have a question i install solex 32 pbic carburator on willys L134 go devil engine the problem is every 2 month engine going to missing and spark plug electrode fully black becoz of rich mixture so any one explain where is the problem in carburator Main jet or idle jet ? Thank u

Is there a follow-up to this? I was hoping to see how the carb. was tuned. Extremely well done. Thank you.

Great explanation! Thank you. My only question is about the idle adjust needle. I get that it's being fed fuel/air in a ratio set by the jets, but you said it's not adjusting mixture and is only adjusting idle speed. I think I see an adjustment screw on the throttle spindle that will be the throttle stop, and if so won't that set the idle speed by holding the throttle a bit open? That means there's extra air coming in past the throttle, and the fuel/air mixture coming past the idle adjust needle mixes with that air, so I think it is actually adjusting the overall mixture going into the engine.

Hi Steve, any idea when you will be releasing the next "Old Rusty" update? Can't wait for the next installment.

I wander if the DCD weber works just the same, also it might be good to mention that fuel pressure can effect the fuel level so its absolutely essential that the fuel pressure is right, i know you should have a max of 2 PSI on an SU carb and 3 on a weber but dont know about solex, also modern fuels can be less dense so sometimes a lower float level can help with fuel mixture settings

Thanks so much, can you do a video for the Solex Bicsa 34 and 34-34z1? There is none in English.

Love your white bd you are a good teacher Thank you for sharing your knowledge

Hi, Nice video instruction. I have a solex 30FV2 for an old Nuffield tractor and need to recondition the Carby. Do you know of anywhere I might find a gasket rebuild set??? OR would you know of a suitable replacement carby which would do a similar job?? Any help much appreciated. Peter in New Zealand

I wish to know... When the accelerator is depressed/applied. Does it mean air-fuel mixture stops flowing to engine through idle circuit or does both of them fully mixture concurrently?

D3shooter thanks for posting this video.I am stumbled and need help. My car is a British 1938 Standard 10HP fitted with a Solex 30FAI carb, it has a 1.5 needle valve ( is this correct size ) and the independent brass float has W 23GR marked on it. I have good fuel supply to carb. The car starts and runs for 5 to 10 seconds after several turns of the starter. After stopping I checked the float bowl and it had no fuel in it. The needle valve appears to have full free movement. Is there a way to clean the needle valve ? It has one fibre washer, would it help if I added a second ?. My brass float does not have any holes in it. Do I need to try and find a new needle valve and if so must it be for the 30FAI carb which is now very rare ? Thanks Eugene

Anyone know an easy way to remove the emulsion tube? Its in a blind cavity and I’m pretty sure its side bore is plugged. I get a really bad off idle lean condition at cruise.

white board good

I would really like to see behind the scene - how you produce videos like this. I mean what lighting do you use, what camera, how offten you need to reposition the composition, what software do you use for the postproduction etc. How long it takes to produce video like this? Do you write some scenario for the video in advance? You are doing amazing job! Have a nice day!

Hi Steve, where did you found the kit with the different gaskets for the Solex carburetor? Thank you.

The needle seam to be longer so the level will be much lower ....?

What could cause a hard start on my car with the same carb and a mechanical pump

What was original Solex AIC jet size? I think those BIC jets are too small, but I can be wrong..

Does the needle of air mixtures need to be opened or closed?

I'm just like you. How the hell can I do something if I just have no clue what I'm doing? Might be an engineer's problem.

What about the frame and body?

please help can this carburetor be mounted for willys jeep 1942 go devil engine

4:17!

Sorry, but I can not help not to mention that image at 15:01 looks very much like Donald Duck in astronaut suit.

hei hei hei Flemish. do not ever deny us white board. that is where you bring more sense of the whole story. please please do not skip explaining on white board whenever possible. if someone does not like that ,then does not belong to this channel. must go somewhere else. there is lot of channels where he can go. yours m.b.s moshitoa (s africa)

Bonjour. J'ai découvert votre chaîne très récemment, et j'ai parcouru toutes les vidéos avec beaucoup d'intérêt. Il est dommage que je ne l'ai pas découverte plus tôt, car je connais assez bien les moteurs de Citroën Traction Avant (j'en ai eu 4, et j'en ai gardé une de 1938), très semblables au moteur de votre U23, excepté que ce dernier tourne dans l'autre sens. J'ai un site où je parle de mes voitures et de celles de quelques amis ( horta.ulb.ac.be/gvg/ ), et un chapitre concernant la réfection complète d'un moteur de traction 1938 et de ses accessoires ( horta.ulb.ac.be/gvg/tractions/cabtrac/nouveau%20moteur/restauration/index.html ). Ce que j'aurais pu vous signaler par exemple, c'est que les bielles à coussinets minces que vous avez utilisées (moteur 11D ou ID19P) se montent avec des vis qui doivent être serrées à 50 Nm, sans arrêtoir et de préférence avec de la Loctite. Les vis 3 , 8 et 13 por serrer la culasse ne sont pas correctes (les bonnes vis, probablement perdues, doivent être semblables aux autres, c'est facile à retrouver chez Franssen ou CTA ou De Graaf). Les conduits d'huile du bloc moteur et du vilebrequin auraient pu être nettoyées avec des écouvillons métalliques de diamètre approprié. Les linguets de l'embrayage devraient être réglés soigneusement afin d'éviter toute vibration. Et surtout, je possède un joint de culasse cuivre/cuivre pour U23, de la marque Excelsior, d'origine, bien meilleur que les joints actuels dont une face est en métal gris qui se corrode très rapidement. Si vous le désirez, je vous offre ce joint avec plaisir. Vous pouvez me contacter via mon adresse mail gvangool@ulb.ac.be. J'habite à Bruxelles ... Encore toutes mes félicitations pour ce magnifique travail sur votre U23 ! Hello. I discovered your channel very recently, and looked through all of the videos with great interest. It is a pity that I did not discover it sooner, because I know quite well the engines of Citroën Traction Avant (I had 4, and I kept one of 1938), very similar to the engine of your U23, except that the latter turns in the other direction. I have a site where I talk about my cars and those of some friends (horta.ulb.ac.be/gvg/), and a chapter concerning the complete overhaul of a 1938 traction motor and its accessories (horta.ulb.ac.be/gvg/tractions/cabtrac/nouveau%20moteur/restauration/index.html). What I could have pointed out to you, for example, is that the thin bearing connecting rods that you used (11D or ID19P engine) are mounted with screws which must be tightened to 50 Nm, without retainer and preferably with Loctite. The screws 3, 8 and 13 to tighten the cylinder head are not correct (the good screws, probably lost, must be similar to the others, it is easy to find at Franssen or CTA or De Graaf). The engine block and crankshaft oil ducts could have been cleaned with metal swabs of the appropriate diameter. The clutch pawls should be carefully adjusted to avoid vibration. And above all, I have a copper / copper cylinder head gasket for U23, from the Excelsior brand, original, much better than the current gaskets, one side of which is in gray metal which corrodes very quickly. If you wish, I will gladly offer you this joint. You can contact me via my email address gvangool@ulb.ac.be . I live in Brussels ... Congratulations again for this wonderful job on your U23!