Always try and oscillate the throttle when you are breaking a cam in, it’s burnt into my brain when we would break cams in on a dyno, we always monitored the AFR and cylinder temp of each individual cylinder, and whenever we would use the throttle stop to hang the motor at an exact and constant rpm, the cylinder temps would start to skyrocket, one of the vet guys who taught me how to operate a dyno, showed me to grab hold of the throttle stick from the control room and oscillate the rpm up and down while staying above 2500/3k the whole time (3k up to 5k up and down up and down) and the extra fuel added to the cylinders would cool it down and bring the cylinder temps down.. Afterwards we would jet the carb accordingly to get more fuel into The motor to help this but even once you get your mixture and jetting dialed in for optimal performance, the engine will still climb cylinder temp quite high whenever you hold an exact rpm for several minutes at a time. All the while your coolant temperature may never exceed 190-200 degrees your cylinder temps will still be scary high
Best way to avoid doing all of that is to bring the engine up to 180-190 temp, then shut it off and let it cool. Restart, and do it again. Do that about 8 or 10 times, and everything breaks in just fine, no over heating to worry about. Then finish setting up as normal.
Just wondering That cam you put in it is that hydraulic cam or a solid camp? And did you use the proper braking in oil? When you breaking in that motor should be 2,500 RPMs at least a half an hour if not a little bit more. I recommend that you had a radiator in place and hooked up to the motor to get the proper temperature and pressure for breaking in the motor. but using a garden hose you're flowing in constant cool water which will never bring the block temperature up to a temperature and pressure to get all the water through all the water passages that you need to break in that motor properly.😎
How are you Cooling off that 383 stroker motor and I hear that the valve train is very noisy is it a solid cam or hydraulic cam I've done a few 383 stroker Motors in my day if you ever need any high performance cams numbers for that 383 let me know I got a few good cam grind pretty wicked for the street
Hydraulic cam. I show the cam card in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Gt8EqKYcl3w.html This is my first build. Thanks for watching.
@@2old2rodeo if you ever need any help just give me a shout and I'll help you through it. Next time when you do a 383 stroker build stead of using Vortex heads try to find a set of cast iron double hump heads they used to call them Camel Back heads or another name for them ARE fuelie heads. You also have to figure out the quench if you don't get it right you will not have the proper burn in the combustion chamber. If you want send me a friend's request or hit me up on messenger and we can talk more about it if you want. Thank you for replying back to me. God bless brother.
God Bless you as well. I was in Youngstown a looong time ago for work. Probably early 90's. I'm in the south central part of the state near Rt 71 an 35 intersection. I wish I had more time to work on my car but maybe I'll get to the week Ohio goes from cold and damp to hot and humid. ;-) Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@2old2rodeo Thanks, no prob. Just got my car back after a year. Going to invest in a new battery/alternator. Always need that full power to help the engine 😁
Thanks. The initial smoke coming out of the mufflers was the wd40 I put on the cylinder walls and pistons during assembly. Once it warmed up it started burning the paint off the cheap headers I used for break-in. I have a set of Hedman ceramic coated headers to go in the car. The paperwork that came with the Hedman headers said not to use them for engine break-in. It said the high temp of break-in would damage the ceramic coating, hence the cheap second set I bought. Thanks for watching.
@@2old2rodeo I was never aware of that. I remember buying cheap headers and sandblasting them and using High Temp Header paint and then baking them in the oven for a certain amount of time and temperature and I got lucky because I used shorty Headers because the long tube headers would scrape the speed bumps in my lowered 72 C10 truck and also the shorty Headers fit in the oven but not the long ones
Sounds like the valve lash needs a little adjustment. I remember your video about the 906 or 062? casting vortec heads you had for this build. During tear down and further inspection you found one to be cracked unfortunately. So you ended going with a set of brand new reproduction vortec heads correct? Nice build for sure that performer rpm air gap looks very sharp painted orange with those crinkle coat black valve covers.👌🏁
@@alexfarrar5389 I misspoke in that video. I said I bought a "new set of bare Vortec heads" when I should have said "another set of bare Vortec heads". I started with the 906 heads that I tore down. When Brzezinski Racing told me the one was cracked, I bought a set of used 062 Canada casting Vortec heads from them and had them proceed with the work I originally intended. If I had it to do over, I would go with aftermarket aluminum heads and use the VHT textured paint on them and then followed up with the Chevy orange for the look I was going for. Thanks for watching and commenting.
It varies greatly by what you choose. Here is where I started. My guess is I have over 7k in it now. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Gt8EqKYcl3w.html
I'm embarrassed to say it's still on the run stand. Health issues and work have kept me from getting very much done. I was hoping for 450 hp and about the same in torque. I'll be happy with anything over that. I would like to get it to a dyno to see and optimize the tune. Thanks for watching and commenting.
