this is a great video of a 455 olds rebuild. just a couple of things. GM painted the engines once they were fully assembled, so there was overspray all over them and the core plugs were painted also. not a big deal, unless your car is being judged for points at car restoration show. as far as the rear seal goes. all the Car magazines do the offset rear main seal, it has been done so much everyone things its supposed to be done like that. it's not. on engine with the rubber main seal, they are designed to be egg shaped, so that when they are put in the cap and tightened down, they become round. just like the main and rod bearings. you should never spin a crank unless the bearings are torqued to specs. the engineers call it bearing crush. same goes for the rear main seal. they are not designed to be put in off set. also, you should put a small wipe of silicone on the ends where the seals come together. there is a company (GST Racing Seals) that now makes a "one Piece" rear main seal for engine that came with 2-piece rear main seals, I use them for small block and big block chevy. but i am sure they offer them for more engines. also, some cranks, one they have been worn past a certain point or turn below .020 can have a hard time sealing against the rubber seal. ironically, Rope Seals do a better job at sealing a crank that has a grove worn in it from the seal or that has been turned below .020. as for cleaning, I use acetone to do the initial cleaning, followed by dawn, water and a whole lot of elbow grease and nylon brushes. then i hose it down, can hit all the machined surfaces with ton of WD-40 (WD stands for Water Displacement) and then blow it dry with a air hose. then i clean it again with acetone and the marvel mystery oil like you use, on all the machined surfaces like cylinders, and bearing saddles and repeat until it is clean with a white lint free cloth. one last thing. Permatex and Royal Purple assembly lube is great stuff, not knocking them in the slightest, but i live in a warm climate, so if I plan to assemble the engine in one day and fire it up the next, they work great. however, in a warm climate it will run down into the pan after a few days, and you can have a dry start up, which can kill the bearings. if I am going to assemble an engine and have it site more than say 3 days in the desert southwest heat, then i prefer to use Joe Gibbs Driven engine assembly lube, it's more like a wheel bearing grease in consistency, but is designed to dissolve in engine oil. it won't run down into the pan if it gets hot in your area, like it does here in the desert southwest. it's also fantastic on roller cams. as for the cylinders, i use break-in oil on the wall when installing the piston and rings. but one all 8 are in i put a little marvel mystery oil in the top of each cylinder to provide lube to the top of the cylinder when the engine first fires off. it makes a smoky mess the first time its fired, but i give the rings a little lube during that first start. the under side of the piston get splash lube from the rods and crank almost right away, when it can take a bit for the oil to get to the rings after first fire up on a break in run.
Good video a few corrections Total seal piston ring manufacturing company says never use detergent based cleaner on the bores like trans fluid ect # 2 the bearing locating notches (tangs) do not keep the bearings from spinning it is the bearing crush when the caps are torqued the tangs are simply for location of the bearing #3 when using ARP main studs you must get the block aline honed with the new studs installed they will produce different distortion than bolts not Aline honing will cause premature main bearing failure good video but a few misses
Love the video, awesome engine build. I wouldn't have used the sealant on the MLS head gaskets but would have done everything exactly the same. Great work! Awesome project!
Slow is fast, fast is slow. For any precision work, this is key. If you want to have real successful throughput, take your time and do things carefully and methodically. Then you can do it once with confidence you won't... cause a situation, and with it time and monetary costs. There are some things you can rush and hackjob, and this ain't one of em.
Its excellent to see someone does it the way i like it.i was watching a guy build an LS style gm engine,and he says”this is the smoothest engine i ever put together”they should ALL be like yours or your not assembling it properly or its dirty.either way your wasting your money if your not meticulous.
Joe Montello was Dr. Olds. He made several books about hi performance and race Oldsmobile engines. He passed away a long time ago. But if you can find one of his publications. It's a great source of knowledge and tech only about Oldsmobile
I've heard not much good news about his business since he stepped away and ultimately passed on, unfortunately. He was the Olds wizard for sure. At least now we have Rocket Performance and Dick Miller. Wise is sold off, from what I hear. All I know is I'm loving thay Rocket Racing block, though it's pretty costly.
Where Mondello and Dick Miller were the prominent voices a while back, the leading vocal expert would have to be Trovato now. His book "Max-Performance Oldsmobile V-8's" is very knowledgeable and in depth. I have that book and have read it front to back many times. There are others, of course, but they're thinning out by the year.
That Ellison machine shop video of lashing valves is ingenious!! And so simple how no one ever thought of it is mind bowling he turns the engine 8 1/4 split or 90' 8 times and lash every. Valve every time turn engine by time you are done it's all done none are left out
If you have your bearing clearances correct,your wasting horsepower with a high pressure/high volume pump.if you look at an engine thats properly built with the oil pan off and you spin the oil pump with a supply of oil to the pickup, tube,,very little oil squirts out of everywhere,so a quality built engine basically dead-heads the pump and oil bypasses through the relief
You missed one important part. Being that the roller cam is a billet steel core, you must install a bronze shim between the camshaft and block. Not doing this, the cam will tear up the block.
Hello, I'm a frenchy who restores an olds 403 with Comp cams steel camshaft. Are you absolutely sure about that ? If yes, where this shim must be exactly placed, please ?
With the thrust plate I used, it should stop the excessive forward and back movement of the cam. Guess I'm going to find out. Hopefully not the hard way.
@hutchhiperf He's referring to the area of the block that the front of the cam rides against, right behind the timing gear. Even with a retaining plate, the steel cam can still wear the block out from rubbing against it with nothing to protect the block. The direction of rotation of the distributor gear naturally pulls the cam back into the block, and especially with thicker oil, it can be enough force to wear a groove in the block.
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Hey hutch. I am putting the same set up in my 87 cutlass but my power steering pulley is rubbing the gear box. I think it has to do with the motor mount being too low. If you don’t mind me asking which mounts did you use. Thanks for any advice.
They were the NAPA 602-1119 mounts. www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6021119 Make sure it's the correct pulley on the P/S. I used the Dorman 300-200 which is listed at 6-7/16" OD.
My next build will be an Olds 350 or 403 in a GBody for an every day driver (if I ever finish this one) I love the SB Olds engines. If you can find an older 350 from 69-72, it should make a great build. You could even find an Olds 350 DX block and use a 425 crank and bore it out to 442 cubes. That would be fun!!
The 350 is a descent motor if you can find a 1967 330 ci for the heads and forged steel crank if your doing a vale job and want new valves go with the '70 W-31 size valves there a little bigger, only thing you will have to do is put value rotators In place and if you can find a 403 ci for the connecting rods all these parts will bolt together with ease as well as a 455 Olds Toronado 5 quart oil pan and baffle will work great the wreckers should have a few of them kicking around I crossed drilled the crankshaft and champared the oil Chanel's as well as notched the connecting rods 1/2" wide @1000" deep on the big hole side to remove oil from the bottom end only do the side of the rods that face away from each other I used the factory grind 308 duration camshaft the Coles true roller timing chain advanced 4° & went with a total timing I also put oil restrictors in my motors I did quite a bit of porting & polishing I filled in the exhaust ports on the out side of the head to eliminate the low dimple area to keep all the exhaust ports separate that is an easy 15 HP gain right there as well as blocking the center exhaust ports that run under the carburetor I don't drive my motors in the winter but that is closed to 50 HP gain as well what you will be creating is a '70 W-30 style head there are a lot of tricks that can be done with these motors to make great HP without silly camshafts that half the time make it run worse my '67 330 ci has 400+ hp not bad for mostly Oldsmobile parts & my '66. 425 is pushing 525 hp the most important thing to do is have the block Aline honed, Squared up, & balanced that is a major difference like night and day right there don't worry about blueprinting that's not worth the money for a street engine my point of view is if your in heavy competition then you can waste your extra money I put the high volume oil pump sanded down the oil return gallies alone the heads valve cover outside facing fenders so they were smooth and the top center of the block I de-burred any casting and sanded that down smooth as well to help the oil get back to the bottom in the pan.
The Olds 350 has a better geometry and bore size than a small block Chevy. The Olds heads were the restriction that prevented big power. With an aftermarket head, or some work on the factory irons, an Olds 350 can be a GREAT street engine.
@@peterrivney552That would be a waste of money to put that much work into a factory head casting. There are MUCH better aftermarket alternatives for the same momey.
@peterrivney552 I wouldn't line bore/hone the block if you are using factory main caps, and the bearing bores are still good, use them. Many times, if the block is line bored, you will end up having to find a timing chain set that is shorter to make up for the loss of space between the cam and crank because of the line bore. If you are using aftermarket main caps, then you will HAVE to have the line bore done, and find a shorter timing chain set to make up for it. Personally, I wouldn't take the chance if I didn't have to.
Where did you get your rockers with the relief milled into the bottom…on my application it is tight between the radius of the stud and the bottom of a rocker similar to yours… and I need one the has been machined like yours.
They're the Harland Sharp 5016. gbodyforum.com/threads/1987-olds-442-project-build.55577/post-652240 They list as for the Bulldog Heads, but work perfect for my application. www.summitracing.com/parts/csp-s5016/make/oldsmobile
Can't say that I have. In theory it should work I guess. Usually for interference fit stuff you freeze the "inside" one and heat the "outside" one. Might be hard to heat the whole block 🙂
When you measured the distance between pick up and sump pan you didn't add the thickness of the pan gasket there's a lot of difference between some seals that would be like saying the when you calculated the compression ratio the difference between head gaskets obviously you would use a metal head gasket if you used some aftermarket gasket it would change the compression ratio so all things must be calculated
