After rebuilding a couple of injectors, it's time to pop the valve cover off and see what is going on in there. I go over the procedure for adjusting valve clearance while I'm at it. Will it ever run good again?
I just had the injectors rebuilt on my super 77. The guy that rebuilt them had the beeak open set at 2000 psi. Still it's hard to get started, and smokes like crazy. Mine take a little bit of time before number one starts to fire. At this point I'm just thinking the old girl is tired out and in need of an overhaul.
Hey Terry! Do you still have your Oliver? The energy cell is a combustion chamber that is built into the head. In an Oliver, it's right across from the injector, and is has a small opening that goes into a chamber about the size of a large marble. When the piston comes up, it pushes air and fuel into that chamber, helping them mix better. Also, being forced through the small opening creates a lot of heat helping to ignite the fuel. Essentially, it was a way to get better cold starting and fuel economy with a relatively low compression ratio for a diesel.
My 1550 diesel will not start and I don't care how long you push the preheater, She is a crack baby ! At some point it will get the injector pump rebuilt and some new injectors put in it, The seals in the pump are leaking (never been apart) and its cheaper to buy new injectors than it is to rebuild the old ones. I'd love to have that special wrench you got there to adjust valves with, That looks like a very handy tool to have ! Lots of good info here for sure and I'd love to know the story on how they broke the tub out on the right side, That took some doing to do that ! Bandit
You're the first to notice the frame break. I think they told me they had a monuted cultivator and hit a tree or something along the edge of the road. That had to throw someone for a loop! Whoever welded it back together did an impressive job.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I've looked at a lot of tractors over the years and that's the first one I ever seen broke like that, It looks like they did a good job welding it back up for sure. If they had a mounted cultivator and hit a tree who ever was driving it had one heck of a stop ! I took the muffler and air stack off our 1850 when I hit a rock in 5th gear plowing ! Stopped it dead in its tracks ! But I didn't stop ! It was easy enough to fix but when we started it back up it was somehow in reverse when you let the clutch out, Put it a forward gear and let the clutch out it would kill the engine. Had to call Harry at McHenry's to come out to the field and figure it out and in about 3 hours he had gotten it out of reverse and it was good to go again but I was stowed up for a week ! LOL Tractors and equipment are easy to fix we aint ! LOL Bandit
There were 2 sizes that I knew of in the Olivers. Korves Oliver has reconditioned heads on hand, I'd bet they have good used energy cell parts. I have no idea if they are still available new. www.korvesoliver.com
I have one of them infrared pyrometers and I've found #1 exhaust to usually be 5º sometimes 10º cooler than the rest. I think the extra airflow and proximity to the waterpump and it's volume of water probably absorb more of the heat than others. Same procedure I use to set valves... glad to know I'm doing it correctly! That tractor looks like it's been rode hard and put up wet. Reminds me of my 1855 - some people shouldn't be allowed to own wrenches! Hope that fixes her up. You think the pump is weak and has trouble building the proper pressure to open the poppet? Maybe she just needs a session on the dyno to work it a little! Thanks for the great instructional video!
I agree on why #1 being somewhat cooler than the rest, but this was staying cold. If you're talking the injection pump, I think that is an all or nothing thing. When they get worn, they won't start when hot, because the pump can't generate enough pressure to crack open the injectors at cranking speed. I was thinking a dyno session might be in order. Makes for great video!
So it was a combination of things that were causing the issue. That is a great video of not only how to properly adjust valves, but also how the valve train actually works. You can even pick out the push rods turning as the engine is running! A young mechanic or one that doesn't not get into much engine work should watch this. It did amaze me how after you had it running with the rocker cover off how all the pushrods were getting coated with oil except #6 exhaust. I am sure there was oil there as you showed but it looked like not as much as the others. Was #1 the same on the other end? I could hear the difference in the engine after you had the valves adjusted it sounded much smoother and quite. I agree with you that some people should not be allowed to own tools!!! Please keep making these videos for us Oliver guys, its really good information. Thank you.
I had noticed the oil not following the rocker too. The push rod seemed dry, but I figured that came from being loose with the exhaust valve stuck down. Now I'm thinking I should pull the cover and swap the rocker arm. I was also so obsessed with #6, I didn't pay attention to #1.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I could not see #1 that well in the video to notice how the oil on the rocker. I am just wondering if maybe there is not enough oil flow from that rocker arm and the valve stem was dry, expanded as the engine got hot and stuck in the guide? I don't know just throwing it out there. Sorry not trying to make more work for you! Lol. Those rocker arms are fed with oil up thru the stud correct? I did think I seen oil in the cup on top of the pushed.
I wish I had made video of freeing the valve, but my I put my phone on the charger since it was low. The valve was as down as far as it could go, the spring fully compressed, much farther than the rocker arm could have pushed it. All I can figure is that #6 missed, and when it it pushed that air/fuel mixture into the exhaust manifold, it lit and exploded (backfired) and the pressure forced the valve open to the point it jammed. You are correct, the oil comes up through the head bolt in the corner. The rear main has a slot in the crank that lines up once per revolution and allows the pressurized oil to go to that head bolt and to the rockers. This "metered" oil delivery keeps excessive oil from going to the top of the engine, and is also part of the reason it takes a moment for the oil to start coming out of the rockers. It is running so much better now, I think I am going to get some seat time on it and see how it does.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Wow the valve sure was stuck wide open than. Well time will tell, hopefully it all good. I was just wondering Do you have a 1950T?
That's a job that requires 3 hands,4 if your holding a camera! Must be an early 1550 with a oil bath air cleaner and 770 front wheels. How many hours on that 15?
It's not super early, or it would have idiots lights in place of the oil and amp gauges, and green light panels in the fenders instead of white. That was in 65. The oil bath air cleaner was regular equipment with dry being optional through 66. The 67 price sheet only shows dry air cleaner for the 1550. Now I've got to go look at the tag and the tach to answer your questions and mine.
You know if you pull the spark plugs out it would turn over easier by hand lol. Sounds better now a little work never hurts a day of raking will be good for it.
i haven't ever seen to many of those 1550 we had a lawyer years ago bought one of those new neat little tractor and and on here the channel bandit farmer he has four of them in different models of the tractor
