Olympus Cameras Have The Best JPEG Engine 

Great minds do think alike indeed! 8-D

Worth watching both Peter and your videos on this - best of both worlds. As a RAW only shooter, this is quite a refreshing approach to add some variety into my shots. Great inspirational video Robin - Thanks.

i like Peters video as yours. both of you are great

You, Peter Fosgard and Rob Trek - my "gold trio" :)

I was thinking that Fujifilm has a best camera JPEG especially with their film simulators. Olympus JPEG are really good but Fujifilm is better

Thanks Bob, I am a photographer and I earn a living from my shoots/jobs, so yeah being practical is important to me, and I ensure I can deliver my explanation as clearly and simply as I can.

Thanks Andreas, glad you found some of the tips useful.

PEN-F allows a whole world of fine-tuning for black and white and color profile, it is insane!

Glad I can share the tips and you have found them useful. Not many people know about the LSF setting, it is hidden too deeply and almost impossible to find if no one tells you. Olympus hides a lot of things. Hence I have a lot of content to continue making videos in this channel.

@@robinwong Funny that I found it quickly because I hate image compression, so I went looking for it early!

Let me add that I read and reread Fineneger on Light in the “ old days “ It’s all light Robin do a book for those of us who are transferring to digital yes I am way behind times lol

Thanks Gary!

Olympus JPEG rocks

@@robinwong but Olympus cameras don’t have a film she simulators like Provia, Eterna and etc

Thanks!!!

Thanks for the kind words. The auto white balance engine should work fine 99% of the time. You will know if you see some issues, and when you do then it is time to use custom white balance to correct the colors.

no, you're not sucks. Olympus and Fuji's JPEG really are superior.

Yes I see s lot of reds rendered too pink from my EM10 ii. Just some shades. I will try your setting using muted colours.

They are all there but at a different position in the menu to what he is showing here on the EM-1. Set jpg SF quality is at is at F setting in the cog menu and Noise filter is at D1. The rest are all in the control panel selectable by pressing the button next the the on/off lever

Of course, only Olympus.

Robin Wong I expected that but was hoping for a different answer. 😂

Keep Warm Color on or off works only in extremely warm lighting (candlelight, etc). It is a personal preference. You should decide which works for you. Some people prefer it on, some off. No right or wrong.

It’s the Large Super Fine jpeg setting. I think Robin's recommendation is that the noise filter should be turned off for all jpeg settings.

@@AndG463 thanks

Thanks Aaron for sharing more tips. However, I must comment that keep warm color on or off is a very subjective preference, some prefer the warm color, as seen faithfully in real life, some prefer to kill it off completely. Depending on what kind if photography you do (poeple, or no people, lighting conditions, etc) I won't be so quick to recommend turning it off.

Fuji colors are weird to me. I tried to love an X100F for 9 months, ended up selling it.

I am going through this same situation, looking at Fujifilm for better jpg's. In your opinion, why is Olympus jpg's better? Thanks

Absolutely agree, Fuji colours are saturated.... in hype

Alex Reay Fuji have so many jpeg options there is no reason not to find one you love. There is a huge online scene now in Fuji JPEG "recipes" where you can make custom profiles to get just the look you want in camera. Seriously, Fuji own this space now and I'm not going back to Oly.

I personally believe Olympus produces the best optimized JPEG output

@@robinwong Yes, from what I can see, the jpg output is very good from Olympus, but it tends to look over sharpened. Because of this, I develop from the RAW file. I would like the jpg to look good enough so that I do not have to do so many adjustments in post. APS-C and FF jpg's tend to look less processed (when pixel peeping) IMO.

@@V8rgr8 Try a recent Panasonic: they have a much more natural looking processing in my opinion, with very fine detail and sharpening. Color are slightly different, but I like them very much too.

@@JeanV1986 Thanks Jean, which Lumix do you recommend?

@@stanmorinaka4551 it really depends on what you're after. If you want the best stills camera for the money, the G9 is hard to beat, but it is quite a beast (in size). The G90 is also good, but it is almost as expensive as the G9 while it lose quite a few features. If you want to go small, have a look at the Gx9. But beware that the latter has a pretty basic stabilization system and the viewfinder is not so great, but certainly usable. That's why I got back to Olympus with the e-m5.3, it is the smallest full featured m43 camera out there, even though it's not perfect.

PEN-F does have some really excellent controls and I do with it just what you’ve described here. You can do a lot of this on some other M43 cameras, though, by working with the output settings (of note you can set curves and manage colors; some features not covered here-you will need to access and assign features via the menus). And many cameras do allow a decent (albeit limited) amount of control for fine-tuning or creating profiles. A special shout-out is in order for Fuji and their built-in film simulations.

I couldn't agree more on the first part. Mid-Seventies photo apprentice here :) As on JPEG capabilities: It took me weeks and very thorough testing to tune my E-M5ii to what I consider the most precise rendering of my visual perception. This mainly includes sharpness and color balance. In very rare cases I'll want to consciously modify my camera for achieving a different look than this "calibrated zero-setup". I understand these JPEG tweaks as the quickest way of putting out some results in neutral color and with the best possible quality, given that there's no time for post-processing - in color, that is. When it comes to b&w, I already prefer development from RAW (which is always already pre-processed in the camera to some extent, by the way), because with " Monotone" there is just one single JPEG mode that renders slightly close to the look I'd like to achieve. In general, I tend not to rely too much on internal tools. One example: In art mode, one can chose from color filter simulations. But I found out that dialing in a yellow or red filter with the camera takes effect only on parts of the data, so I double-checked with real glass filters. The b&w results came out way better, for instance concerning the blue skies / white clouds separation every seasoned film photographer grew up with. My conclusion: JPEG tweaks finally give us the tools to achieve results which film photographers were always chasing for: Sharp, color neutral and high quality pictures. Film stocks had their limitations, and JPEG helps those to overcome them, who neither have time nor patience to post-process the most out of their RAW files. Olympus in fact does a quite decent job on this (and thanks for the Pen tip), but with another round of testing, I reckon my pictures taken with a Sony, Lumix, Pentax, Canon, you name it... would probably look quite similar: sharp, with neutral colors.

@@olafwDE You actually might want to test the Pen-F for it. Simulating old school film is just one application for this capabilities, creating a JPEG output entirely matching your ideal version of rendering colors or greytones could be another. Especially for b/w there is, as far as I know, no better tool to do that.

I used to have the Pen F. All cameras should have that little jpg dial, methinks. However, a newer Pen F camera could use a cellphone screen, and two card slots where one captures RAW and the other whatever jpg output you desire. RAW is huge and such a pain, and I refuse to use anything other than normal jpg (not superfine).

The first OM-D E-M1 also has the Color Creator wheel which works great. I like it for monochromes! Next, the Kodachrome look...

The Olympus Workspace will render the exact same JPEG output from the camera. The advantage of shooting RAW is the flexibility to change some settings without consequences - white balance adjustments and shadow/highlight recovery, which will be more destructive is corrections are performed on JPEG instead.

Haha what did Jared say?

@@robinwong nothing yet afaik, but he usually makes videos complaining when someone says something nice about jpegs :)

Not even worth making. Fuji JPEGs produce weird colors. Inaccurate and not to my liking. I'd be wasting my time and people just want to hear what they want to hear "oh Fuji has best JPEGs" and if I go against that I'm just opening a can of venomous snakes.

This video is fully applicable to E-M10 Mark III, so are most of my other videos. Olympus JPEG engine benefits you also get in E-M10 Mark III. I don't think there's anything different in that camera.

Would you like it to be changed the 4th time?

@@robinwong Then he would feel double drunk.

@@douglasallen511 why not 😅

It is very dangerous to use ETTR for JPEG. You no room for recovery.

@@albertocugat9689 I think the reason Peter suggests using Muted and lowering saturation and contrast is for when you are using Highlights and shadows. Since according to him (and after trying it I do agree with him) that setting gives you the best info on when you risk highlight or lowlight clipping. So that you can get close to the dynamic range limit without risking crossing it. The reason this is needed is that as Robin said, what you see in the viewfinder is a rendered jpeg, so the viewfinder cant visualize the sensor's entire dynamic range. This is a workaround that gives you better control over dynamic range. The downside is that the in-camera image will look pretty muted and dull. So this is only meant for when you shoot raw and are aware that the jpg you see is not the image you are capturing.

No apologies needed! The thought counts and thanks for being here!

The title says "Why is Olympus JPEG superior?" You don't need to go far to connect the dots that title refers to the way Olympus cameras process in camera JPEG.