7 Tips On Optimizing Dynamic Range For Olympus OM-D 

Thanks! I'm excited to watch it!

You are too kind Steve, thanks! I do my best to ensure my videos are compact and straight to the point.

Thanks for the kind words, appreciate it!

Could not have said it better

Thanks for watching and appreciate the kind comments! Go out and shoot more please!

Thanks! Glad I could help.

Thanks!

Thanks for the kind words!

My pleasure to share.

No worries, glad I could contribute

Cheers!

Thanks Amy!

Thanks Clayton, glad that you like the videos! Shall do my best to make more.

Thanks, glad you found the tips useful!

Thanks! Appreciate the kind words.

No worries, glad I could help!

Oh my this is the first - to be better than chocolate! Thanks so much. You made my day.

Thanks for the kind words, and please go out and shoot more!

Thanks so much for the kind words! I do my best whenever I can! Go out and shoot more!

Thanks, and I am sure you can!

No worries, glad I could help!

Thanks for the comment, Peter! Appreciate it.

No it has more noise; just because you cant see it doesnt mean it isnt there. The best noise performance is at the base ISO; if you extend ISO down then that is provided to enable better use of shutter speed and the image is compensated by the processing engine. You dont get something for nothing, information is lost in this process. If the result looks good to you then its a good compromise but never imagine that this is not the case. Noise control always starts from dynamic range, the clue is in the reduced range, all they have done is lift the black level to above the noise and you can do that better in post under your own control - winks P.S. This is how I deal with most noise in an image, I lift the black level above the noise level (mostly statistical and thermal noise) because this process doesnt lose information in the rest of the image. Noise processing uses smoothing techniques of course and loses serious amounts of detail ;-)

@@jomsies all noise reduction is destructive; it doesn't matter how you do it. Simplicity and technique always gives the best results.

@@jomsies Yes it is, its a question of how much destruction you will tolerate; noise reduction is the worst by a mile but any process using algoryths will destroy information. just adjusting brightness or contrast is the least destructive. You have to make the choice but, its better to be informed so you can trade benefits against damage.

Hello. I started to test my M5 Mark III and compared indoor portraits made with my old M10 and M5 III using flash. At first glance i realized that M5 III has slightly higher exposure levels when i tried 45mm/f1.8. The goal was to get soft bokeh so i opened aperture as much as possible and i set ISO 400, later 320. With flash I was locked to 1/60. Now I see that both was bit too much. When I reviewed the images with Highlight and shadow feature, no details were lost but i had to adjust Gamma, Brightness and Contrast in post production. Then I wanted to get a darker photo (a cosplayer), so ISO 320, aperture 22. Apparenlty i underexposed certain parts of the image, but the final effect is what I was looking for. I am quite curious about one thing... Is it possible to use Lightning/shadows warning effectively with Flash?

Thanks!

You are welcome!

Thanks for the kind words. Those two exact lenses you have were used to film all the videos in this channel.

Thanks for the kind words.

Thanks for sharing your experience Carl, and yes, same here, I have been shooting for many years and never heard a complain from clients too!

Thanks! Glad that the E-M1 Mark II is working out fine for you!

Thanks!

Thanks fo r the kind words, getting prime lenses is the right way to go! So small and light yet delivering fantastic results.

Cheers

I do the same with Aurora. Amazing results

Thanks!

Well said!

Cheers, and please go out and shoot more!

Cheers mate!

Thanks for the kind words!

Cheers!

Thanks, you are very kind!