Olympus OM-D: A Histogram within a Histogram - the Green Area ep.290 

Waking up to find a new Rob Trek tutorial is always a good thing. Clear and concise information.

Always a good tutorial thank you Rob.

Good video Rob. Valuable info here!

Great video. I did not know this.

Great series! I can't wait for more.

Thanks Rob!

Thank you Rob, very informative.

This was an extremely useful and helpful video. Thanks for this.

Once again clear and precise information from the master.

Excellent info, thanks!

Thank you very much! Very informative, and clear as always.

Well done, Rob.

Excellent. Thanks for the explanation & demonstration. Looking forward to more.

Brilliantly done Rob

Excellent presentation, as always.

Really useful Rob. Thanks a lot for making this. Much appreciated. Cheers.

You've just torn my world apart:) Many thanks)))

Good clear explanation!

Thank you Rob for a very informative video. I was not aware that the histogram represented what was being seen in live view rather than the actual exposure. Now I know, I will take that into consideration.

Thanks Rob, very well explained

I always wondered what the green and orange colours meant. Thanks for creating this video.

Thank you Rob for yet another highly informative look @ histograms on the Olympus. I do use it and did wonder (but never bothered to find more about) the strange green bits in the histogram

Talk about timing. I was playing around with my EM1 yesterday and I was wondering what that extra little green part was. I do find the histograms helpful, so thank you for the extra info.

Thanks, this was a very good explanation!

just bought a second hand omd 5mk3, but thanks to wonderful british weather, haven't had a chance to shoot for 2 weeks... so I've been devouring your videos like crazy! thank you so much for all this great content.. it would have taken me years to figure these out on my own! much appreciated!

Great tutorial as usual. Use of the washer is clever and really aids the explanation.

Very helpfull thanks, rood advice from Peter to watch your video.👍

Very helpful to understand live view which may be on by default.

Useful thanks 👍

That is good stuff!!!

What can i say.The tutorial master at its best.

Hey - I never thought about this!

A fantastic idea for a new series Rob, I always learn something new from your tutorials. In this case, I hadn't noticed there was a red bar. Being colour blind, I just thought it was a darker bar, now when I look closer I can tell it's red. I would have loved to be able to change it to blue, I'm good with blue. I wonder if the green area is based on the metering area, like "spot", I must have a play later. I think they could have stretched the histogram to go edge-to-edge and therefore give more resolution for "old" eyes, like mine. So, thanks from Wales and keep on doing what you're doing.

Thanks! When you showed exposing to the left, it actually resulted in dark blue bars appearing on the left side of the histogram along with blue color showing shadow clipping on the picture.

Very useful feature, I wish my Lumix camera had it.

Great content Rob. Histogram helps in cutting down on any touchups in post. For me I have no desire to set in front of a laptop. Olympus does an amazing job in doing most if not all the processing in camera and frees me up to focus on the creative process. And your channel helps me in manuvering all the menus so I can get to the magic! All the best!

Thanks for the tut Rob, I know you have a video on focus bracketing but I am trying to do still life with flash off camera and was looking but can't determine if you have covered this subject, i just recently realized my em5mkll can do in camera bracketing but can't figure out how to set the flash to sync with it, which it probably won't be able to do since its such a rapid sequence any help or thoughts appreciated.

Hi Rob. Useful clip on histograms. Never use Live View Boost as I like to see exactly the exposure I will obtain. This is essential for me doing wildlife photography where the situation can change dramatically from say dark ground to sky shots in a split second !! I just got back from an amazing trip to the Danube Delta in Romania and off to Madeira shortly where I will be using a Polarising Filter for the first time to hopefully shoot Dolphins and Whales. Not sure if you have done a video clip on the use of Polarising Filters ??

I like this series, and I look forward to seeing more. BTW I had no idea what that internal histogram was. I didn't even think to check! BTW you don't need the intro sequence. It doesn't serve any purpose. Intro sequences worked for broadcast TV but are pointless for internet videos.

Thanks, I had no idea about this green area! I have missed your tutorials about EM10.2. What about the old intro music and screen?

Rob, you should see a blue bar on the left of the histogram if you clip the shadows just like the orange bar on the right if you clip the highlights. I have to say that the blue doesn't show up as well as the orange.

Hi, on my M10 iii there is an exposure method "SPOT HI" (as well as a "Spot SH"). They seem move the exposure of 2 evs (to the right and to the left respectively): are they intended to be used for ETTR and ETTL? If so, how? Thanks in advance.

I always use ettr. To reduce noise. So wouldn't errl give more noise? 🤔 Of course if you stack pictures, both modes would be best to use. So you get amazing for and background, as you see with your eyes.

Is the HL-7 grip worth buying Rob? Extra Fn button,s etc, good for portrait work or just buy a spare battery?

When I use the info button, I see a center circle inside a big green square and i have my leveler showing. What is the big white circle and the big green square around it? Thanks.

Hi Rob, just a quick question. How do we submit a question? In brief on your 3 years with EM-10 and Pen F. I noticed on the Pen that you had programed in manual lenses. Do you have a video on how, why and what you use vintage/manual lenses? What you use them for and results? I have an few older Zuiko OM lenses. The 50mm f1.8 and 28mm f2.8 are my favorites. I don't use them that often but would use them more if I could get a good reliable speed booster so the 50 was an actual 50. Or if Olympus could some how do an in camera software 2 x times digital converter in reverse for the vintage lenses, that would be great.

Thanks. I didn't know the histogram was linked to live boost. Knowing this I will be careful about relying on the histogram. Is the green piece linked to your focus point or really the center?

Hi Rob, I have a question for you. I had the live view manual mode in the "on1". Whenever I change a setting, the screen shows up as a normal image. But I under exposed the picture by 3 stops down. Now I took your advice, now the screen will show exactly what the final image will look like. I turned off live boost. Why would you need the live boost on when you know it won't be the same as the screen? I just wanted the live screen to reflect on what changes I had with ISO, shutter and aperture. I was shooting in manual. I do a lot of astrophotography, and I find that this live view on1 or on2 as misleading. I want to see exactly what I will get for a final picture. No surprises! Thank you so much for all of your educational videos, and that teaches me the fundamentals of Olympus cameras. I setup the live view options I use default at image, histogram and the level bar. Do I need to do this for the custom 2 settings? I have that one as shadows and highlights. So all seems to be working, under your simple instructions. Thank you for that video too! Just one other question. Sometimes in the live view, the info toggle goes to a pick a choose list from the camera. Like STD and something else. I had to power on/off to get it to a histogram or regular or shadows and highlights. What can cause that to happen? I'm baffle about that! Sometimes I have to turn off the camera from the scope and go inside the house to get this custom1 or 2 to work consistently. Is it something I did wrong here? Thank you for these great videos. You're the best in Olympus and OM Systems! Your videos are so much better than reading an instruction manual! Thanks, RJ

When the "Live View Boost" is turned on, what does the histogram represent? It doesn't correlate to the camera exposure settings and the scene so what does it represent please?

Three questions occurred to me: 1. Is the green area always taken from the center or from your focusing area, which may have been shifted? 2. What is the size of the area from which data is sampled? Does it correlate with focus area size / shape or metering area size? 3. If OMDS adds this information, they must have a use case in mind. I’m am struggling to imagine, how I can use this information to my advantage / to improve my image.