Olympus Pen EES 35mm Half-frame Shutter-priority Viewfinder Camera Manual, Review, & Taking a Photo 

Thank you!

Thank you! 😀

Thank you!

I'm sorry for your loss, but that will be a nice camera to use.

Nice! Yeah, these have had a relatively high failure rate over the years, but they're fun to use when they work.

Thank you!

Nice and thank you!

@@DavidHancock on the ee-2 it was my understanding it gives a shutter speed of 1/200 on ‘ASA setting’ and 1/40 on the aperture settings, which they call ‘manual setting’ The variable ss based on EV was news to me. Is that just on the ee-S do you think? I don’t think it’s that way on the ee-2

@@NextScamdemic Good question. I recorded this about a year ago and edited and uploaded it in April or May, so I don't recall exactly but I usually get information about shutter speeds for cameras like this from the manual.

Concur. I've heard both that they wear out and don't, and both from people I would trust to be right. So I don't know but an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Thank you! I have in fact done the D3. I think about 15 months ago.

@@DavidHancock awesome!!! will have a look now!!! Big thanks :)

Thank you and no. The orange numbers are still a fixed shutter speed but you can control the specific aperture in those settings.

@@DavidHancock I see, got it. Thanks again! :)

IIRD, the orange numbers just adjust the aperture and the shutter speed should be the same for all of them. If the shutter is not firing with those modes, then that may be a larger issue.

For 400 ISO, C-41 and black and white film will both be a-okay at 200 ISO. You can pull process B&W a stop for even better results. For zone focusing, IIRC the lens has a red focusing indicator (maybe the group setting -- it's been a few years since I sold this camera and my memory is rusty) and that would be the zone setting.

I do not, but the Fix Old Cameras channel might.

IIRC, yes. I sold this camera after I made this video.

The GSN is a fantastic camera. Not without some weaknesses, but fantastic.

I completely missed focus there. That was just user error.

@@DavidHancock appreciate it

Slightly larger aperture and three-zone focusing system. IIRC, the EES has no focusing ability.

Yup! That's as close to fully manual shooting as this camera can do and as long as you have the proper aperture for your light, the images should turn out.

@@DavidHancock what do u mean turn out?

​@@paengescobar4742 Not knowing your background in film, if this explanation comes across as too remedial, I apologize. I want to start at the baseline and work up. So film and film cameras work a bit differently than digital cameras. There's less forgiveness and the settings need to be more accurate, in general. Digital cameras can do this for you, whether it's a cell phone or a DSLR. Film cameras like the EES fewer exposure parameters -- sensitivity (ISO), shutter speed, and aperture that the camera can work with. Film needs a certain amount of light to create a proper exposure. Too much light and the images will be blown out. Too little light and the images will be dark. So with this camera having a fixed shutter speed, you can control the aperture but if it's set incorrectly then the images won't turn out -- they'll either be too bright or too dim. So let's take 400 ISO film as an example. If you were to use f/16 as your aperture in full sin with the shun to your back, a 1/400th of a second shutter speed would provide a proper exposure -- a photo like you'd be used to seeing from a digital camera. If you use a shutter speed of 1/400 and f/2.8 in the same lighting, because f/2.8 lets in a LOT more light than f/16, the image will be VERY overexposed and blown out. In a similar vein, if you use f/16 and a 1/40th shutter speed, like the EES has, then your images will also be VERY blown out. Each major number on the aperture -- 16, 11, 8, 5.6, 4, 2.8, and so on -- is a single stop. The same is true for film speeds -- 400, 200, and 100, for instance. The same is true of shutter speeds -- 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, and so on. If you increase the light by a stop in any of those three then you need to decrease it by a stop in one of the others. So if 400 ISO and f/16 and 1/500th of a second is a perfect exposure but you change the shutter speed to 1/250th, because that increases the light by one stop on the shutter speed side you need to then decrease it by a stop on the aperture side -- change f/16 to f/22. With apertures, the higher the number is the less light the film receives. With film, you cannot change the film speed mid-roll as the entire roll has to be developed at once and if the film speed is changed mid-roll then some images will not be developed properly. I know that's a lot but let me know if that answers your question or is way more basic than you needed.

@@DavidHancock thank you so much sir!