The compactness, portability and depth of field of Olympus Maitani Zuiko set make it ideal to operate in historical settings such as public demonstrations and conflict zones, natural catastrophes for grand reportages. And OM stabilization is a must. Embedded in History, the Photography of this 21st century. Thank you Olympus Maitani for your superb long term designs.
Very helpful Rob. Once I buy the OM 1 I will have 8 weeks before travel to binge watch your RU-vid clips.For a professional camera they have helpful menu’s for first timers…..
Thanks for an interesting overview. I dont own this camera yet so it is good to see the changes in the menu structure With regard to highlight/shadow warning I have seen it mentioned that in playback the option on whre you can see highlight/shadow display have changed. If that is correct could you please go over that one day
Embarrassed😱- that was the problem. I put the camera down and came back to it a while later and then saw the setting was 'B'. I wanted to try 'M' and turned the dial to far. In my ecstacy at discovering that my camera firmware had not somehow melted I forgot to let you know. Many thanks for responding!
Hi Rob , many thanks once again for your info. Can you help me please with 2 things? 1st, how do I stop my screen going blank (black) when my hand passes the evf? And what is this function good for? Secondly, What setting do I need to have that shows in the event, exactly how my completed photo will look like? Currently, what is see is not exactly what I get, if that makes any sense at all? Cheers Deb.
For the EVF, you need to turn off the eye sensor. Go into the wrench menu --> 3. Monitor/Sound/Connection --> Eye Sensor Settings --> EVF Auto Switch "OFF". You will now need to toggle between live view and the evf manually using the evf button next to the evf. To show a correct exposure in the display, go into the COG Menu --> 3. Live View --> LV Mode --> "Standard". and Night Vision "Off".
Hi Rob. Always great videos and most of all informative. Question on the OM1 though please? I am aware that when in CAF with bird ID the focus box should turn green. Mine doesn't it simply blinks green spots. What can i do to archive the green box affect please. Robin
Hi Rob. Great video as always. I have run into a problem that I can't resolve concerning the LV and EVF displays. I have both the OM-1 and OM1 Mii cameras. For the sake of simplicity I want the LV and EVF to show the same info. This would include the histogram, highlights and shadows and the level gauge. I only want the one option. I don't want to toggle between Image Only, Information 1, 2 and 3. When I turn on the camera I want to always see the same interface. Because I wear glasses I want to use Style 1 or 2 for the EVF. I have successfully set up the cameras to do exactly what I want. One big problem! Whenever I turn the camera off everything resets to the default settings! How do I prevent this from happening?
As Richard suggested, check your diopter for the evf. If the image in the evf is sharp but washed out, check your evf brightness setting. Failing that, check your exposure. Make sure the image taken matches somewhat closely to the evf preview. Check your picture profile is not using an art filter. Check that you have S-OVF turned off. Finally, check that you have Night Vision turned off. Let me know if any of that helped.
Thanks Rob. A good refresher on key controls. Although I use an OM-5, a lot of what you talk about is relevant to me. Question for you. With my OM-5, I use manual exposure with auto ISO. In this mode, my exposure meter always says (-1.3). Now, I am totally happy with my images, but have I set-up something wrong in my settings?
Just a comment in regard to a FB post on the OM-1. The person showed the back of his OM-1, where he had the joystick button come off. There were some other comments on the quality of the OM-1 and some of the dials freezing up of getting stiff. Have you gotten any feedback from your viewers on some of the quality issues customers are experiencing? Thanks.
Just an observation. If you use night vision boost (or whatever it is called) that will screw up your highlight/shadow indicators. When I pointed at a lightbulb it still showed blown out at 1/30000 sec f/22 ISO 200. Of course if you took a pic it was pure black. Turning of night vision the indicators worked as expected. Also the half press turns off all text but highlight/shadow indicators are still operational.
Help! I want to set my cameras (OM-5 & Pen-F) to shoot a black frame so I can then isolate and add light back in to get a specific look. Thats easy enough. The problem is I can’t get the EVF or the LCD display to accurately reflect what the actual image will look like. It always shows a darkened subject not a black frame (and yes, live boost is OFF). Is it possible to get an accurate preview or will I just need to take the shot, review the image and readjust at every step until It’s what I want?
Sorry for the late reply. The live view with live view boost OFF will only show exposures +/- 3 stops. A completely black frame is usually much more than 3 stops underexposed, so you won't be able to accurately reflect that in the live view. Also, when working in very low light, the live view may already be near it's limits on what it can show. So you won't even see +/- 3 stops accurately. So you will need to do a few test shots to dial in what you want.
Help! My OM1 is suddenly behaving strangely - 1) The Live view menu display and the Super Control Panel are very dim. 2) Also I cannot scroll through or control settings via the SC Panel. 3) When I press the menu button the menus come up in the BULB/TIME/COMP > Live Time menu. I've never touched this setting, don't even know what it is. 4. I've tried reset all settings, that doesn't seem to work. Any suggestions appreciated, thanks.
Hi, sorry, forgive me but there is something that I really don't understand and I wouldn't want it to be a defect in my om1. I'll explain. It's normal that if I keep the lens covered with the cap, and I look in the EVF, I see a dark image but with the presence of small white dots that fry intermittently (like a coriander effect, I don't know if you know what I mean) on my xt4 if I do the same try I see everything black but clean, without this strange effect. Furthermore, after just over a thousand photos at base iso without long exposures, I have already remapped the sensor twice due to the presence of three white dots on the sensor. I wouldn't want the two things to be related and indicative of a faulty sensor. Thank you if you have the patience to answer me, have a nice day
Hi. You should not be seeing white dots with the lens cap on. Also, pixel mapping is generally recommended once per year. I had to do it once after getting the camera and only one more time since. Anyway, I think you should send the camera in to get checked.
Hi. You have a button assigned to the 1.4x digital teleconverter. Unassign that button and you should not see the frame lines anymore in movie mode. Let me know if that worked.
