@@ZampostOk Yes, sadly when you manufacture parts even with a good QA some will fail early. It happens even with luxury cars like a Ferrari or Bugati, at least you were in warranty. Could have been a conrod, even a crank. The reality of life and materials.
@@em4703 u have om642? Go check it, post a video on RU-vid that it doesn’t do that. If not than ur just bored and want to post useless comments about Ferrari and Bugatti ! LOL!
if you block off crankcase ventilation with your finger then it will vent from the next point of resistance which created by opening the oil cap. This is no test
It depends what om642 you have as up until 2007 engine had cast iron sleeves and double gang timing chain and piston rings are much tighter to cylinder walls and less gasses enter crank case but after they went for alusill coating of cylinder walls and softer rings and single gang chain for improved fuel economy and emissions.
Wow - that is an impressive test - so a blocked PCV would definitely show up as blowby.... that could explain what I'm seeing on a Mazda 2.3L Turbo. Just in the process of changing the PCV - hopefully all will be well after.. How is your engine all these years later?
Mine does the same, 114k miles, new pcv valve. Is this normal? I got scared when I saw the oil coming out from the oil fill cap because usually , on diesels( at least for semi trucks) that’s a sign that the engine is shot.
The best way to tell if your OM642 engine is bad is have a compression test done, yes it can be done by using the glow plug hole. FYI: Do NOT I mean do not pull anything with this engine. Mercedes instrument cluster engine temperature is lying to you. The displayed temperature is NOT the real/actual temp. I ruined my engine because it overheated on my 09 Gl320 pulling a boat. Also DO NOT using Liqui Moly oil, man o man I tried it for the 1st time and that was the last time, my oil Slugged up thick like you wouldn’t believe.
@@lionsdejudah 2007 Mercedes E320. It’s in great shape. I looked inside the oil fill and noticed the gear drive so it’s normal for oil to come out since the gears are moving the oil.
@@marcelcovaci9922 Nice, I would recommend getting a X60 Car OBD HUD Multi-Function Digital Meter Alarm Speed Water-Temp Gauge Malfunction-Test for 12V OBD-II Standard Vehicles Automotive Display HUD. You can see the REAL coolant temperature in real time. And set an alarm ‼ just in case the engine starts to overheat.
Buenas noches, el mío está igual es el mismo motor, y gasta 1,5litros de aceite cada 1000kilometros, estará ya gastado el motor no lo sé alguien me podría ayudar gracias
Dinos, cuantos kms tiene, yo tengo una Multivan 2.0 tdi y hace lo mismo, pero no consumenaceite ni lo quema, va bien y recientementeble he puesto un catchcan y hasta baja el consumo, pero sopla mucho, no se si es normal o no, pero viendonestos conentariosnla mia sopla hasta poco. Por favor comparte tu experiencia, gracias tío
I have the same blowby is this normal?? My can consume oil from back of turbo turbo is leaking , i have changed 2-3 used turbos and still the same issue
@@lionsdejudah yes i have swapped 3 turbos that looked clean at the back amd the same result , oil leak at the exhaust side of turbo , exhaust manifold from car is very clean . The car was okay no smoke for 1 week then leak was present again , pcv valvle is new .
@@IS-Review 2-3 Used Turbos could have ALL failed the same way, in my other RU-vid video I state that my car had 160k miles and was on its 3rd Turbo, there are 2 different types of turbos for the OM642 engine. I believe the turbo machined from a SOLID BILLET of aluminum is the BETTER Turbo, I believe there is too much FLEX with the STANDARD Turbo allowing the exhaust or intake oil seals to leak.
I’ve heard that a POOR turbo oil DRAINAGE can cause the oil to back up and cause excessive oil pressure in the turbo causing it to leak/burn oil. Make sure your oil drain turbo isn’t restricted with anything.
just unscrew the neck cap, if it does not jump under the pressure of gases, then the engine is serviceable! and the fact that you closed the oil separator with your finger and you went to burst gases, otherwise it cannot be, for that it is needed there
@@davidross6711 didn't see your question yes, I changed to a new one complete with a tube and a sensor this is the problem of all ohms642, even new engines spit into the intake
All engines produce blow by some produce more than others, too much blow by will overheat the crankcase and the heat will reduce the motor oil thickness and cause premature wear on the crank and rod bearings.
I’d recommend 5W40 for winter and 10-15W40 for summer Mobil 1 Full Synthetic. do not! I repeat! Do not use Liqimoly engine oils, my goodness gracious! I never seen sooo much oil sludge oozing out of the oil pan in my life, I thought European car use European oil, nope I was wrong.
Peugeot 308 2015 hot air blowing from the oil cap?...1.6hdi 220.000kms is this normal?...or is it a bad engine...please watch my video and leave your comments please thanks😁👍
@@lionsdejudah thats a knackered engine, i got same 1 in sprinter van, had blowby like that, lets just say its not on the road anymore spun main bearings and rod bearings
Too much, likely cylinders need honing over upper 1/2 due to bore polishing. I have 2011 with 40k miles at idle I can leave cap off and have very little fumes. Also, check to see if intake manifold is coked up... with that amount of oil on the PCV gasket, and high EGR circulation rates on that engine, highly likely. You would have to correct that too by cleaning out EGR system and inlet manifolds and walnut blasting the inlet ports in the head. Order of work: 1. Do a leak down or have one done, anything over 10% is bad, 5% good... in doing this a someone used to doing it can tell whether it is valves, piston ring/bore sealing, or leakage like head gasket. Don't be surprised if all three. 2. Likely you will have some major work to do, so first order if rings or valves leaking... take inlet manifolds off, remove heads, remove the EGR valve, piping and cooler. 3. While head off check for polishing or scuffing of bores of cylinders, likely polishing of bore. 4. Wire brush piston heads clean, and also clean completely upper head gasket surface be sure to do at TDC. 5. One cylinder at time put pistons within about 1 cm (.4 inch) from BDC. Measure bore, if within limits of acceptable operation... you can go to next step... not rebuild engine! 6. Put rags or paper towels in bores to prevent contamination, PLUG OIL RETURN HOLES in head deck, then use flat piece of glass or metal, or small steel or granite surface plate (buy a cheap 6"x8"x2" or 12"x9"x2" for $30-40) with spray adhesive attached 220 grit wet or dry finish paper to resurface finish head gasket sealing surface on block... you can use some light oil like solvent or penetrating oil on paper to help with this process, clean up well with solvent and finish cleaning with coffee filters wet with solvent, use vacuum to suck out any contamination in various holes... then check head for flatness with straight edge... if a .001" thick feeler gage can go under the straight edge held against the block deck, you got more work to do to get the thing flat. Use the other side of the glass plate or the surface plate (granite or iron) 6. Hone cylinder for proper cross hatch and finish, and then very completely clean cylinder bore and surrounding area of honing oil, grit and contamination, any petroleum solvent works, Sea foam good. Use light oil or solvent on coffee filters to wipe bore spotless. Use edge of folded filter to clean out any contamination and excess solvent that has come between the piston and cylinder... you can use vacuum too. Oil the cylinder with heavy duty diesel oil, and tape a new filter over the opening... proceed one by one until all 6 are finished. You are simply looking to refinish not remove material. 7. If valves need grinding, and at 160,000 miles they should be done, and the wear in the valve guides checked and all of this corrected, i.e. valve job. They will resurface the heads at the automotive machine shop as part of this. 8. Before assembly, use the surface plate and wet or dry abrasive paper to clean all the misolaneous gasket mating surfaces, clean as before. 9. Either solvent clean the inside of the EGR system or have it professionally cleaned, make sure it is as clean as possible. Use new o-rings and be careful on installation. 10. Clean inside of inlet manifolds and check the swirl valve system for operation and any problems, correct, check the actuator is undamaged and works. I would take this cleaning the manifolds to a professional for walnut blasting. Why walnut it leaves no harmful abrasive residue and leaves a clean surface. 11. Use either solvent or walnut blast each inlet port and valve in turn making sure the valve is closed... NOT NECESSARY if you have had a valve job the shop will clean for you! 12. Clean up everything use lintless coffee filters or rags, and vacuum out all recesses... re-oil bores with engine oil or marvel mystery oil 13. An old trick to make sure you have a good seal quick is to put a pinch of Bon-Ami household cleanser powder in the inlet ports of head before assembly... or use some in the final oil of the bores. This will seal the engine instantly after startup, and the Bon-Ami breaks down to nothing... 14. I would recommend changing engine oil at 500 miles. 15. While heads off you VERY MOST likely have chain stretch and you should replace the timing chains and guides and the tensioners if need be they have kits for this. If the car was driven on anything other than Heavy Duty Diesel oil you will have chain stretch and bore polishing at 160,000. 16. The rest, like bearings likely in MB diesels look like new bearings so you don't have to worry about that. 17. You will have basically a rebuilt engine! Put new timing belt on it. Use Heavy Duty Engine 229.3 recommended oil not 229.5... make sure it has ACEA E9 certification and CK-4 API certification, 5w-40 oil. Two oils that are this Shell Rotella T6, 5w-40, and Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5w-40, both are high quality heavy duty diesel and gas engine oils popular with truckers and meet the requirements of Mercedes... DO NOT use the 229.51, 229.52 oils, Mercedes web site has oil selector and it will give you recommendation of MB Approval - 229.3 or 229.5, and service bulletin (the dealers got) requires ACEA E9 oil, and the 5w-40.
Mercedes lies to us/you. I overheated my engine pulling a 6,000lb boat, using Star 5 the coolant temp reads 210-215F and the instrument cluster is showing 90C. My temp rose to 120C without warning and by time I realized it the engine was done for. FYI: YOU MUST add a external temp gauge with a overheat alarm, and secondly YOU MUST add a external Oil Pressure gauge. I heard from numerous accounts of the oil pump failing.
@@lionsdejudah Thinking on this you need to add a Methanol Water Injection kit like the one Gene Banks sells. Doing this you could tailor your engine internal cooling to the load situation, even have a couple selectable programs... pulling trailer, not pullings trailer. This will internally cool your engine reduce soot and NOX and give some extra economy and power at higher outputs of the engine.10%-30% is usual for a turbo diesel... most efficient is 15%. Talk to Banks they can give you the information on how this would have likely saved your engine. If you were game for doing an engine swap you could put in a BMW M57 diesel... very bullet proof.
@@lionsdejudah lot of keyboard mechanics here easiest way warm engine take the oil cap off if you have some slight suction there it’s fine if it blows and engine note changes then you have an issue if not stick fuel in it and enjoy it
@@lionsdejudah I agree bearing failure imminent. Blowby gases include soot which will be caught up by your oil filter. The filtration will be compromised causing reduction of oil flow to the bearings and the turbo. You will also notice squashed oil filter when you change oil and depending on severity perhaps after 2000 miles of service or less
