1. OMPHobby M2 Explore BNF Heli @ BuddyRC: www.buddyrc.com/products/omp-hobby-m2-rc-helicopter-explore-version?ref=-ptdbz6d-llb 2. OMPHobby M2 Explore BNF Heli @ Banggood: www.banggood.com/custlink/KKDRCasZ4D 3. OMPHobby OSHM2055 Mini Futaba S-FHSS S-Bus Receiver: www.buddyrc.com/products/omphobby-m2-3d-helicopter-mini-sfhss-rx-sfhss-receiver-1pcs-oshm20055?ref=-ptdbz6d-llb 4. Want to learn more about the fascinating & rewarding hobby of flying RC helicopters? Please visit my website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/ 5. Updating the multi-module firmware in your OpenTX radio for OMPHobby protocol: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PiuTGS3SHHg.html
You really can’t see how good the quality of the canopy is on the camera but in real life it is so clear and even in the dark it looks as if it’s glowing up which is just amazing and Omphobby have done and amazing job with this. I fitted the aluminium blade grips after my first flight because the plastic ones aren’t very good which I saw from this video and the screw whole where it connects to the pros and cons linkage had worn down and it just eats away at the plastic but the aluminium shoes now wear at all. This is just amazing and by far the best heli I’ve ever had
When you take it to the air the hobby hits a whole different different level! I'm a surface guy looking for my first hobby grade helicopter. This might be it🤔
Yes, It was an ideal spot for the past 10 years. It's a real shame I lost use of that field when new ownership took over this past winter due to all the drone BS. Working on securing a new field since - and thus I've been grounded all year other than flying smaller stuff at home.
Looks great, but I'm not sure about that controller stacked on top of the esc! Fantastic review. When I first starting learning to fly with my old MCPX V1, your website and tutorials were invaluable for me. Thanks for all you have contributed to this hobby.
Thanks James - No issues with the control board stacking as they are well protected. Lots of heli manufacturers are using that architecture these days on smaller helis like this. Likely better than having it all on one board. Assuming your concern is shorting between the two boards in a hard crash; you could put a layer or two of Kapton tape between the two boards for added protection.
Wow, that's well made compared to the TREX clone that I have. That thing, even after putting better servos in it, was so squirrely I eventually began to fear it (ended up wrecking, whoops). And holy smokes does it seem quiet. I'd love to see something like this in a 250 size, just for the ability to see it out a bit farther (and/or have some extra carrying capacity for something like FPV/a nice action cam) (edit 250 not 500, whoops, not sure why I get that mixed up.)
GREAT VIDEO with right amount of detail per normal. Off topic request - I bought and love your e-book set up manuals. Could you make an e-book AND video tutorials for ArduCopter for helicopters? Existing forums and wiki's expect a great deal of knowledge the average heli pilot doesn't have. Thanks for considering. BTW - are these comments section the best way to contact you for ideas like this? ATB!
The best method of contact is through my website since I often don't see or get notified of every YT comment. Due to volume and my limited time, RC helicopter question response priority is first given to my customers, website emails, and to my YT subscribers. I don't know a thing about ArduCopter and frankly, I'm all for keeping it that way. 🙂
from the timer on the video, it looks like you started your flight at about 19:30 and ended it at about 24:30. That's a 5 min flight. is that about right if you are sport flying and not beating the hell out of it?
Yes, about 5 min for sport flying is what I'm getting on average; but as you likely know, there are many variables that affect flight time such as setup / head speed, flying style / how well you manage your cyclic & collective energy, weather conditions, and what you personally feel is a safe state of discharge for a LiPo pack (I personally don't like going much more than 75% to maximum 80% discharged). In short, take my or anyone's flying time for exactly what it is - anecdotal. Do your own tests for your specific setup / flying style and check your pack voltages after your first few flights; then adjust your flight timer/s accordingly. 5 min should get you in the ball park. Full speed hard flying, about 2.5 to 3 minutes. Very gentle scale flying, upwards of 8 minutes. 🙂
Hey John new to this hobby and wanted to see which rc helicopter to get to get started? Any suggestions and do I need to get a good radio transmitter? The M2 is good for beginners?
@Mickey Mike. I cover these questions in detail on my Best RC Helicopter page on my website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/best-rc-helicopter.html I also cover the importance of getting a computerized radio on that page when getting into collective pitch RC helicopters (like the M2); and yes, it's important. The radio is actually more important than the helicopter choice in my opinion since it's a choice you have to live with longer. Anyway, after digesting that page, feel free to contact me through my website if you have any further questions & welcome to the hobby. 👍🙂
Hard to make any sort of comparison as they are not in the same league. The M2 is a much better machine in both quality and performance. It's also twice the price so we should expect no less. 🙂
I have the M2v2 version and this one scares me more than my Align 800 and 700. I don’t use normal mode. The stabilization drifts too much and that’s even after calibrating it. I just use stunt 1 and 2.
wouldn't the teardrop shaped aluminium extruded tail boom give it a better aerodynamical performance for the down wind? ... (as a bicycle rider, carbon fibber is very nice, but only for very extreme performance applications, aluminium wins [by a lot] on reliability in the long run) Great review! Thanks (just entering the heli world...)
Very doubtful at this scale. They do however fly sideways at speed in some certain maneuvers and there, the extra boom size is not as slippery as a simple round tube. Same can be said for cross winds. But again at this small scale, no appreciable difference between the two shapes. If you are new to the hobby, you will soon come to realize that carbon fiber "wins by alot" where weight savings & strength on a small power hungry flying device that has limited battery capacity is everything. Tail boom stiffness is also a big thing. Boom flex causes poor tail rotor authority and if bad enough, tail gyro feedback induced oscillations. The aluminum boom is about the same weight and stiffness, so it's likely a cost savings measure and it looks better some will subjectively argue. Replacement prices of both parts are almost equal. However, it's easier & less costly to just get off the shelf carbon tube and make your own replacement booms. Can't do that with the new shaped aluminum one. Regardless of boom shape or material used, OMPHobby makes an impressive little heli for the price, quality and performance. Glad you enjoyed the review - thanks for watching.🙂
Lengths will all vary due to variation in servo arm centering. Like most eCCPM swashplate setups, the lengths of the 3 swash pushrods from the servos will be adjusted to give a perfectly level swashplate while producing zero degrees of collective pitch when the servo arms are at their approximate center points (ie. zero degrees collective / mid point on the pitch curve).
Once you look through the Setup & Tips ebook (if that's the one you purchased), you'll soon realize it covers ALL collective pitch RC helicopters - M2 included. The exact same setup principles are used on all collective pitch RC helicopters after all.
Question, I have a spektrum transmitter, can I use "AR620 DSMX 6-Channel Sport Receiver" to this m2 heli ? If not, could you give some suggestions ? thank you.
The DSM input port on the M2's flight controller like most, is for use with a Spektrum or aftermarket DSM2/X satellite receiver only - no way to hook a larger full function RX such as the AR620 to it. Only DSM satellite RX's will work such as the Spektrum SPM9645 or a good aftermarket one like a Redcon. www.banggood.com/custlink/D3GhosUy8d
Cannot get along with Open Tx so bought a Spektrum DX6E four weeks ago. Which Tx do I need to operate this M2 heli please? I have bought your introduction Ebook and it is very informative. I am not too keen on gyros and want to learn to FLY a heli like a real one flies. No 3D or jaw droppers...just a nice flying CP heli without gyros and negative pitch. Can the M2 be programmed as such? Pete
I presume you mean RX (receiver) since you already have a DX6e (the TX). Any DSM satellite RX (Spektrum or aftermarket will work). If you have my Setup & tips ebook for collective pitch RC helicopters, you know any collective pitch RC helicopter can be tamed down into a good trainer for learning on 🙂 - provided you have a computerized radio (like the DX6e) to alter your pitch & throttle curves along with dual rates. Clarification: You will be using gyros the whole time while flying (they are part of all flybarless systems - both tail gyro and cyclic gyros). It would be impossible to fly a smaller reactive heli like these without gyro stabilization the same way it would have been almost impossible to fly a heli without a tail gyro and flybar before flybarless systems became available. If you are after real/true heli feel and response, what you want to have disabled are the accelerometers in the flybarless system - those are what give the artificial/robotic self level help. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LouYitd7jak.html
Thanks for that John. I thought the Heli came with Rx which is why I asked Which Tx? Okay so I can operate it with a dsmx satellite rx and my DX6E tx. Bit confused why it is called a satellite Rx. Clearly they do not operate from satellites? Does it mean " additional" or "slave" rx? I understand about the gyro thing now. I will go with gyros. You are the Guru not me ...so I listen and Do. I am following your book to the letter and am on tail in hovering as still as I can. Even that is megga exciting for me as When it veers off sometimes a lot because of wind, I have to fly it back to the marked spot forwards sideways and backwards...so I am flying!!! I am on S3s at the moment but I am licking my lips with the OMP Hobby Explore. What a lot of helicopter!!! Thanks John. I am getting one!.
Can someone please tell me what the thin black wire is that’s hanging from the helicopter? I don’t have this same one because I got mine for free from a yard sale but it isn’t working.
Hi John, I just saw a video of the M1. Was this the Original Model or is this a New Model. How does the OMP M2 compare to the Trex 150 DFC in your humble opinion? Thanks John and Thanks again for another great video. Stay Safe and Stay Healthy my friend! 🚁❤🙏❤🚁
As far as I know, the M1 is the "new one in the pipe" I was mentioning in the video. It's a smaller version than the M2 and will be the one that would be more closely sized to what the Trex 150 is. The M2 and Rex 150 are very different helicopters in size, power, and performance so there is really no comparison between them. 🙂
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks John and sorry about the mishap! I agree completely with the Metal Blade Grips on it probably would have been worse. Take Care and Stay Safe John. ❤🙏❤
I love my explore but it's burned through two tail motors. If you have any vibrations, the ESC overworks the tail motor and it shorts out. I've upgraded to the metal head and got new blades 🤞
How could vibrations cause an ESC to "overwork" a brushless tail motor to the point it shorts out? I presume you tested the 3 phases of the tail motor with a DMM to come to that conclusion. What shorted, windings to windings or windings to core? If the motor shorted out, I presume your ESC also burnt out?
@@Rchelicopterfun it's a common issue unfortunately if you follow the Facebook groups. On both my motors, if looked like the wires had shorted near the connection with the motor. The ESC seems fine for now but if it burns through this one, I'll be replacing that as well. The parts supplier recommended putting the ESC on some gel tape if you have tiny vibrations. The issue stems from the ESC not recognising the difference between vibrations (from a crash) and rotation from the airframe so it's trying to compensation very quickly at frequency.
@Mark Rice - Thanks very much for the additional info. I'm not a farce-book user, so never see stuff like that. So what you are describing is tail motor wire shorting likely caused by mechanical wire vibration where the tail wiring enters the motor due to lack of wire strain relief, and has absolutely nothing to do with the ESC causing it as first mentioned - correct? I just want to make sure I fully understand the mode of failure because an ESC in a high vibration environment will not cause tail motor wires to short out. If it's due to inadequate wire strain relief at the motor, I'll be sure to add some RTV to the wires where they exit the tail motor. Tail motors an these little things are spinning at very high RPM's (30K +) so I can certainly see if the tail rotor was slightly out of balance, the high frequency vibration energy could easily cause wire fatigue & shorting from lack of adequate strain relief. I've never had it happen on my 3 M2's with hundreds of flights, but perhaps I've just been lucky so far. 🙂
@@Rchelicopterfun basically I had a tail strike and didn't notice I'd damaged the blade and carried on flying. The tail then gave up and I pirouetted into the ground. The tail was very hot. Once I swapped out the motor, on the first flight I noticed the tail wasn't holding in pitch pumps. When I went to test it after changing a few settings in the radio, the tail gave out again and burned up. Lots of users have reported this and the consensus is that it's due to vibrations from bent shafts or unbalanced blades. The tail is trying to correct for these and burns out. I replaced the whole head and swash with a new metal one and new blades along with the tail. I flew it earlier and the tail was running cool, the tail wasn't as locked in as when I first got it when doing pitch pumps but it wasn't spinning a full 90 degrees as before so fingers crossed.
Lesson well and truly learned. Don't chance it and continue flying until you've fully inspected the bird. If I'd have. Allied it a day I could have swapped the tail blade. Because I didn't, the two pirouettes of death threw the tracking off and I'm sure the feathering shaft is bent. It's cost me a fair bit, but most importantly it's cost me two weeks of flying time in UK summer!
I know it might seem kind of silly to do this with such a powerful and efficient Heli, but would you consider this airframe for use in Scale builds, and if so, what size shells would fit it? 200, 250?
Not silly 🙂 The M2's would make a wonderful set of mechanics for scale projects IMO. At lower head speeds and reduced rates, they are very tame & predicable fliers with decent flight time and a fluidity you don't get with other small helicopters. They have more than enough power to lift the increased weight of a fuse, and with the adjustable gains now, the increased mass & inertia from the fuse could be "tuned" for. Unfortunately I know of no fuselages in this size segment. Too small for any 250 fuses (if there are even any still on the market). Perhaps if the M2's popularity keeps increasing and the market shows there is a demand, OMP or another canopy manufacturer will introduce a couple scale fuselages... Stranger things have happened.
Hi 👋 John Salt , Saw your video , very nicely explained. Couod u pls tell what is the best FC for micro size heli such as xk130, xk110 around this size ?? There is KBar , but it is too big . thanks
Hi John, Thanks a lot for the excellent reviews you make. I would like to learn a little bit more: What is Blades SAFE technology doing that this heli with 6G mode isn't doing? Can you address a bit on what SAFE technology does and what the 6G mode does on the OMP machine or the Eachine 160 machine? Thks!
At about 08.40 you refer to the receiver connectivity options, where one port is labelled DSMX. I am a Spektrum radio user (currently have a DX6e)and am due to take delivery of one of these helis in a few days time, so will I be able to set the model up in the radio and bind the heli directly to it? Does this heli have any form of stabilization?
@Robin Davies, The DSM port is used to hook up a Spektrum (or aftermarket) Satellite DSM2 or DSMX receiver to the control board. So yes, you can fly the heli with a Spektrum radio, but you need to get an external Satellite DSM2 or DSMX receiver to plug into it just as I show in the video at 15:52. Yes, like all RC helicopters, this heli has stabilization. It would be almost impossible to fly without it; be it flybar or flybarless. In the case of the M2 EXP, like all modern day RC helicopters, it uses electronic flybarless stabilization instead of mechanical flybar stabilization.
@@Rchelicopterfun What Spektrum satellite are you using? I have an SPM9645 - will that work? I have actually watched Freddy Cordova doing this and he uses an old 7020 receiver as his 'external source' to bind to, but there is a lead from the 7020 to the satellite receiver. The only receiver I have lying around is an AR610 which has no such functionality, just the 7 open ports on the top). Will I just bind wirelessly then?? Thank you.
@@Rchelicopterfun Hi again John, I received an M2 EXP for Christmas! Managed to do the required pre-steps and it is now bound to my dx6e radio. I use switch B for flight-mode changing where position 0 is for normal/SAFE, position 1 for idle up 1 and position 2 for idle up 2. With the radio on and flight mode switch at 0, I plug a battery into the heli and after it has initialized, I see a solid red light (on left-hand side) and a solid blue light (on right-hand side) in the LED window. Does this mean that stabilization/self-levelling is active? In idle up 1 and 2, the red led blinks whilst the blue stays solid. Does that sound correct?
Hi there, I recently acquired an M2 EXP but after a few flights, not fully happy with the way it flies. I find the pitch range is incredibly twitchy and very(!) responsive whilst the cyclic speed is very slow and 'mushy' around centre sticks. In my dx6e radio I have zero expo over rudder, elevator and aileron. I am hoping some adjustments to the flybarless unit could resolve these problems. Would you have any thoughts/suggestions on what I could do? Thank you in advance.
As with any CP heli, reduce your collective range to make it more manageable or play with collective channel output on the radio. Mushy cyclic... Increase agility for cyclic in the FBL unit or increase channel output for elevator & aileron on the radio &/or confirm you have no dual rate on cyclic. Also, consider using negative expo on cyclic to increase mid stick response to reduce the built in dead band in the OMP FBL system. Completely eliminating deadband on the OMP & others is possible with dead band eliminating curves with radios that allow that programming feature (DX6e doesn't). Other possibilities of course such as mechanical issues, these are just the most common "electronic" ones that come to mind and not being able to see the heli in person for a proper hands on diagnosis.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you John. Increase agility for cyclic in the FBL unit - would that mean increasing the number of flashes when in elevator==> AGILE and aileron==> AGILE? Would the PITCH option in the FBL unit (in conjunction with using a digital pitch gauge) enable me to lower the setting from what I believe is the factory setting of 12.5 degrees on both ends?
I have one question with my m2 explorer I just got. When I turn it on there are faint but sharp noises coming out of the on board system and I don't know if that's normal or not. It does it quite often and just want to make sure it's normal.
Great review John. My M2 V2 arrived today. I'll be using a DSMX satellite RX too (OrangeRX R110x). There's a bind button on the OMP's FBL - does that button put the DSMX satellite into binding mode too or did you have to bind it separately?
Separately (but I never even tried the button). The button does put the little external OMP S-FHSS RX into bind mode, but I don't think it works with the DSM RX's. Only one way to know for sure - try it 🙂
Great video! I just bought one because of this vid. :) Would be nice to have access to your complete OpenTX setup tho since im a total heli noob at the moment and no one at my club flies heli with OTX.
Hi there. Great review. Always loved rc models and helicopters in particular. I was really hoping to enter this side of the hobby. My ultimate goal is super scaled models but I appreciate the complexity for someone starting out (I had a nitro help when a young boy but never managed to lift it more than a meter off the ground). Which helicopter would you recommend as my first? I would like to build it rather than an RTR but would appreciate your opinion. Which radio would you recommend as a good solid option that would last several years? Something that does not feel like a toy in your hand. I remember the remote that came with that nitro felt like a professional remote (that was back in 87 or 88) Maybe you could point to a video or blog that teaches basics of hells, eventually how to build, tune, choose size? Thanks for sharing
@Vitor Morais - My website which is specifically geared to helping newcomers to the hobby and succeed with it answers all your questions here & many more: www.rchelicopterfun.com/ It's also best to contact me through my website with broad scoped questions like these. There are many factors to take into account when choosing your first RC heli, and even more if you are considering jumping into the deep end by starting with a kit instead of a ready to fly or bind & fly one. These include but are no limited to budget, local hobby shop support for the specific brand, area you'll be flying in, previous RC experience, the amount of time you have to devote to your new hobby, will you be self learning or getting one on one help from an instructor, tools you already have or may have to get, etc. Again, all covered in great detail on my website 🙂
If you have a solid grasp of OpenTX and collective pitch RC helicopter setup - it's very straightforward. I followed the same setup steps I follow with all my CP helicopters on OpenTX: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-O1L0wxzoqOU.html
A little too advanced for most beginner's first collective pitch RC helicopter (presuming you are self learning and not getting one on one help from an instructor). My Best RC Helicopter page on my website goes over what to look for in a good first collective pitch RC helicopter: www.rchelicopterfun.com/best-rc-helicopter.html I do list the M2 on that page, but it's generally a good second CP heli, not a first if you've never flown a collective pitch heli before. Setup by the way is more important for correctly learning collective pitch flying skills than artificial self level help. You can make any heli stable and tame with a tame learning to fly setup while still having the true feel of the heli. This way, you won't have to relearn to fly all over again when you eventually turn artificial self level help off; assuming of course you want to eventually turn it off to get the real feel and enjoyment of flying a collective pitch RC helicopter and be able to perform aerobatics. Just my 2 cents (as a heli instructor).
John, the OMP lipo's are difficult to get overhere in Europe, will this one fit ? Dimensions H*W*L : 24,5*22*64mm , The width is good, also the Height, only the Length is about 6 mm longer. Will this battery fit in the EXP without issues ?
What are "metal clips"? Do you mean blade grips? If so, upgrading to the stronger aluminum blade grips like the original M2 or the M2 V2 have, is entirely up to the individual. They will be stronger and not break, but as I mentioned in the review, those weak plastic grips also acted as "mechanical fuses" to help save downstream components (namely the servo arms and perhaps servo gears). Totally individual preference.
Would it be good to make a lil 250 airwolf?.i was looking at 450's to make one but i kinda like this better than the 450's i been looking at, only 1 year into heli's (esky f150 v2, xk k123 as350) but seems this would be a nice next step up
No because it's not a 250 size heli; as shown in the video it's a 180. No fuselage options for it unless you fabricate your own. 🙂 The M2 however is a great little heli if you are ok keeping it pod & boom.
Hello great videos you have, can you share your opentx number for the tx16s set up for this M2!. I will gladly appreciated, I just bought it for my son and want it to be stable on take off etc…
@Jay Narvaez - I show & go over my OpenTX template I use for all my externally mixed CCPM helicopters (what the M2 uses) in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XdFOndPG7xo.html If you want to know what's involved in taming a collective pitch pitch heli down for learning on and how to do it, I cover that in my Setup & Tips for Collective Pitch RC Helicopters eBook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
Good evening. On your video, while flying in normal mode, you mentioned that you are flying 60% power. What setting is that referring to on your RM TX16S? Thanks
@ Randall Watts... 60% is the power output from the ESC based on a traditional 0 to 100% throttle curve; in other words a 60% throttle curve. OpenTX of course uses -100 to +100% curves so you have to convert scales (60x2)-100 = 20% as I cover in my setup & tips ebook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
Where I got the knowledge - 31 years of experience in the hobby. Which is why I created a website specifically to answer questions such as this for people new to the hobby: www.rchelicopterfun.com/
is the tailgain only adjusted thru the fbl settings? just checking. I have gear channel working for the self level. making sure it wasn't possible with aux2 or another channel thanks..
Yes, tail gain adjustment is only through the FBL unit's settings; gear channel (5) is only for stabilization selection & there is no AUX 2 (6 channels only).
I have the original M2, and its been a great first heli. Ive crashed it a bunch of times, and repairs have all be straight forward and pretty inexpensive, but thanks to 2020 being a disaster, ive had issues with parts availability, particularly replacement booms (the carbon ones break pretty easily). Can you confirm the hole pattern in the carbon frame plates is the same on the new versions as on the original M2? Would like having the option to swap out to the new boom and tail assembly in the event i need to replace a boom again and cant find one.
Different size boom blocks. The new style is taller (due to the teardrop boom shape). You can't drill out new holes in the carbon plate either to accommodate the taller block because the rear carbon plates are also not tall enough where the block is mounted. It looks like you could replace the back carbon plates on the original to the new EXP/V2 ones to accommodate the taller boom block, but that is just a guess going by some quick caliper measurements. It would be a fitment experiment and fairly costly with two new plates, new block, new boom, and new tail rotor motor mounting parts. Likely easier and less costly to just order in some 9mm OD carbon tube and cut it to length if you can't source OMP booms; however they do show in stock: www.banggood.com/custlink/G3mdcBALHv
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks for the info. Was hoping the boom blocks might be interchangeable, but sounds like not. Looks like parts availability isnt an issue like it was earlier this spring anymore, though, so thats a positive.
Hi....thanks for the fantastic video. Quick question...Does the self leveling flight mode on this heli work well? I currently fly a Blade 230s V2, and really enjoy the self leveling feature. Not really a 3d heli guy, I save that for my planes. If the self leveling flight mode works well, this thing appears to be AWESOME!!! Thanks for your time, and look forward to hearing from you. Thanks! Chris California (-:
As an instructor, yes, I absolutely dislike it. Self level sets most people back from learning how to fly properly. It totally defeats the reason most of us take up the hobby - the immersive challenge and rewards that come with collective pitch flying. I'm not talking about 3D either. Normal, scale and sport flying styles are equally included in this immersive & never ending collective pitch learning curve.
Hello all, hello @John Salt. I have kinda of a newbe question, as I, if I get the TX16S transmiter, do I need the reciever in the link in the description of the video or that receiver its just for Futaba radios? If not, what kind of receiver do I need, or the flight controler already have a way to connect to the TX16S radio? Thanks in advance for the attention
You have many RX options with the M2's when running with an OpenTX radio with a multi-module. The least expensive method is to use the internal OMP protocol RX that is built into the flight controller/flybarless system. You may or may not have to update the multi-module firmware in the TX16 since this is a new protocol. I have a video on the process: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PiuTGS3SHHg.html If you don't want to use OMP's protocol and their internal RX, then you can use many other receivers that use either SBUS (futaba, FrSky, Graupner, etc.) or DSM (Spektrum) connectivity via the SBUS or DSM connection ports.
The OMP M2's are superior in component & build quality over the 230S. A little smaller however but more performance & power. The 230 is a better beginner heli IMO.
@@Rchelicopterfun I was just about to buy the 230s v2 having spent weeks researching only to find out they are now discontinued. This M2 looks and sounds amazing so may be an alternative.
All covered in my setup & tips eBook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html I've also covered the foundation of collective pitch setup in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-O1L0wxzoqOU.html
Man I love your reviews!, I know there is quite a big difference between the two engineering wise but I have a turnigy 9x v2 and a xk k6 radio and I am having are hard time deciding between an m2 and a eachine 160 or wait for an m1? I just enjoy sport flying outside but still able to tune in the house. If you dont mind what would your opinion be as preference for my situation.
The M2 is too big for indoor flying (unless we are talking gymnasium), so it's not going to be a good match. I of course can't comment on the M1 since I haven't seen it yet. The E160 is like most micros, squirrely and reactive, but it's a good little heli for the price and isn't half bad with the right setup.
@@Rchelicopterfun hey John thanks for the reply, so maybe when and if the M1 comes out it would probably better to stick with an e160 and hopefully the M1 will be a good compromise between the two?
evening john, i recently got the m2 explore version. my pitch curve in IU1 & IU2 are 0 25 50 75 100 my throttle curve in IU1 & IU2 are 0 25 50 75 100. while flying the collective feels mushy or delayed on the negative side. is there anything i can do to take out that delayed feeling?
1st - why use the same pitch & throttle range in both flight modes? That defeats the purpose & benefit of programable flight modes - but to each their own. 🙂 2nd - pitch curve output/percentage values tell me nothing because they are effected by mechanical setup & symmetry of your collective range. When communicating collective pitch values, I need actual pitch angles; ie. your collective range in degrees at low, mid, & high measured with either a pitch gauge or wedge gauge. 3rd - You never run linear throttle curves with collective pitch RC helicopters, especially with aerobatic/3D setups such as you are producing with a 0 to 100% pitch curve. With a linear throttle curve like that, your head speed will not only be bouncing all over the place and producing large amounts of unwanted reactive torque, the head speed will also be decaying rapidly below half stick and there will barely be enough rotor speed to keep it flying - that's why it gets unresponsive and vague. Please direct any further technical setup questions to me though the contact page on my website. www.rchelicopterfun.com/contact.html
Hi there. I’m really debating on getting either the M1 or the M2 Exp, size difference wise I know the M2 Exp is much bigger than the M1 but the M1 does come with aluminum blade grips and all that. But honestly, think the M2 Exp has the Carbon Molded parts in them and I believe it’s just as good. What do you think of M2 compared to the M1? Thanks
Both excellent little collective pitch RC helicopters - best in their respective size class IMO. Totally depends on the size of your flying area as to which is best suited. The M1 is better for a larger yard, the M2 for a small park. Just my opinion based on my flying style and how I like to fly.
@@Rchelicopterfun Hi John, so I pre-ordered the M1 from BG, with 10% off got it for $250 and came with 3 extra batteries. By the way, would you be able to make a Vid on the M1 on how to setup the rescue mode feature in it? If I’m not mistaken the built in FBL unit comes with rescue mode feature, I would be able to set up the rest on my TX16S but won’t know how to add the rescue mode feature if indeed came with one. Thank you so much John.
Anyone knows if the M2 V1 Carbon Fiber tail boom fits in the M2 EXP? The price difference is like $2 between the two. They should have just kept it on the M2 V2 or M2 EXP
Do You know the protocol for setting up a Spektrum rx/tx ? I've only been flying Blade Heli's lately.. they come with a manual ! I know I need a satellite RX. appreciate any tips
Sorry, I don't understand your question about "protocol settings." Protocol references the unique RF digital instruction language used by the radio system. There is nothing to set with it, it's built into the TX & RX, just like the operating system. You would operate the OMP M2 EXP with a Spektrum TX as you said, by plugging in a Spektrum sat RX into the control unit in the DSM port. Setup for it is the same as you would setup any collective pitch RC helicopter. Set your pitch & throttle curves, dual & expo rates for your flying style. Nothing different with the M2 over any other CP heli in other words.
@@Rchelicopterfun sorry for the confusion. it was a late reply and the word protocol popped into my brain ? You answered my question though ....Thanks man
Yes I do & yes they are totally worth it. I would give up the hobby if all I could fly was smaller stuff. The adage of the bigger the better still holds true because the laws of physics can't be changed. Micros have their place for practice convenience (very much like a simulator), but are not even in the same ball park when it comes to the experience of flying a bigger machine.
@@Rchelicopterfun What size(s)? I'd love to see a review/commentary video on stepping up to a larger heli. Thanks for the great advice as always, my stimulus check will be going to good use ;p
I fly mostly 600's, 700's & 800's. Electric, nitro, and 1 turbine. Scale is my #1 interest but I enjoy them all; the turbine is still my single favorite for obvious reasons. Lots involved in stepping up to larger bird from a micro and is far more involved than any video could relay. You have to build them correctly, set them up correctly, understand all the systems on board (electrical & mechanical), and fully understand why & how collective pitch helicopters fly. Lots of mechanical know how is gained in this process and the learning curve is quite honestly endless - it's why I love the hobby - the challenge is addictive. There is no simple process other than either working your way up to larger sizes (Blade 230 perhaps or any 330/450 size followed by a 550); or the very best way, join an RC heli flying club & get an instructors help and one on one instruction. This is much more involved than just flying instruction. A good instructor will go over your machine to ensure it's built and setup correctly along with giving you priceless tips from years of flying experience. My website along with a couple of my ebooks cover most of what involved, but again, the fastest way to get into larger birds is to get one on one instruction. With that said, larger birds are easier to fly than the smaller ones. If you can fly a squirrely over-reactive micro CP heli without crashing it (without any artificial auto level stabilization help), you can fly a large one (once the fear and intimidation factor are overcome). As one commenter to this video review video mentioned, his OMP M2 scares him more than his Trex 700 & 800.
What is your opinion of the 500 size class? I noticed you mentioned 450 and 550. I am still somewhat of a beginner - I first started with a Blade Nano CP-X, then got a T-Rex 500 (great build experience), and have added smaller sizes in between since (T-Rex 250, T-Rex 150). I know you prefer the 450 for beginners but I found that many people prefer the 500 because of its size and weight (more docile), though the cost of repairs obviously increases as well. Love the information in your books, by the way!
@@germansnowman I really like the 500 to light 550 size too, 470-570 blades with a 6S setup seems like the sweet spot for that big heli feeling without getting into crazy 12S components, there's lots of great 500-550 kits on the market from Gaui X5, XLPower 520/550, Soxos 550, Logo 480, Synergy 516, Oxy5, Blade 480 and the old Goblin 500, basically everyone makes a good 500 kit although admittedly the 2 biggest brands, Align and SABs offerings are a little dated. I started with a 450 12 years ago and never really got along with it, was just too unstable and never got it locked in. With everything going 6S id say the 360-380 is the mid size market sweet spot atm, not a 450, blades and batteries are a lot cheaper but parts can still be very expensive for some kits.
Hi Gary, Lots of considerations when choosing your first RC heli - way too many to list in a YT comment reply. I have an entire page that goes over this question in detail on my website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/best-rc-helicopter.html As I say at the very binning of that page: " The Best RC Helicopter is One That's Right For You. Your Experience, Your Budget & the Amount of Time & Passion You are Willing to Dedicate to Your New Hobby are Deciding Factors." For example, do you want to start with collective pitch out of the gate or ease you way into the hobby with a less complicated (albeit less capable) fixed pitch heli? What about size - is the M2 the right size for your flying area? Do you already have a half decent computerized radio (RC transmitter), or is that another item you will have to get? Again, lots of considerations to be aware of. Specifically to your M2 question. I would not consider The M2 an ideal first RC helicopter for "most" people, but like any CP heli, it can be setup for learning on with tame settings and it's totally personal choice dependent on your natural abilities and what features you are looking for in a collective pitch RC helicopter. Also consider your flying area - do you have a larger area to fly (which the M2 needs), or are you going to be learning in a smaller yard? What about instruction? Are you self learning or will you be learning from an instructor? Again, these are all deciding factors which I cover in detail on that Best RC Helicopter page.
You would have to pair it to a Futaba FASST RX with S-bus output. Since FASST protocol uses a proprietary RF chip (as far as I know), you would likely have to stick with an actual Futaba RX; but perhaps there are aftermarket ones as well? I'm not a Futaba user so I don't know what is out there for FASST RX with S-bus options. OMPHobby however only makes one for S-FHSS protocol.
Thanks for the Video. You measured in the Helicopter what would be the max wide battery. But what is the max height to put a battery in? Can I use a GNB 750mah with 23 * 28 * 62MM?
Apologies, I thought I did... Anyway it's tight in height. Can't go more than a mm or two larger from the OMP-packs (not much more than 25mm in other words).
Annoyingly the battery compartment on this new Explorer edition is slightly shallower than last year's model & no longer fits some of the third party lipo packs as they clash with the landing gear 👎
Completely different helicopters (big size difference between a 450 & 200), each with their own pros & cons . This one however is a better engineered heli and will actually give people a true & engaging flying experience over artificial auto-pilot.