Do you enjoy RC helicopters, dabbling with electronics, and engaging in DIY projects around the shop, house & yard? This is the RU-vid channel for my website www.rchelicopterfun.com and as such is focused on helpful RC helicopter related projects.
Over time, the scope of content has broadened to cover DIY mechanical and electrical projects many of us RC "heli heads" are just as interested in. The amazing hobby of building and flying RC helicopters teaches us so much about how mechanical & electronic contrivances work, it's an easy and natural progression that many of us RC heli nerds proudly become electronic and mechanical DIYers.
As RC Helicopter & DIY experience teaches us... "IF IT'S NOT BROKEN - IT SOON WILL BE!"
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The motor I used on mine (Ego Drift Scale 4035HS 460kv) which is specifically for the Roban HSM Mechanics has all 4 holes spaced at 30mm. www.egodrift.com/scale-collection-4035hs-460.html
Helping a neighbor with a Craftsman 18 HP Intek. Seemed to be locked up. Took the spark plug out and gas poured out. Turned over the engine and then put in the plug. Engine started but ran rough and smoked a bit. Check oil and smelled gas. Engine will start but will not pick up speed. Any suggestions for next steps? Or do I help the neighbor push it to the curb?
Sounds like massive over fueling. Carb overhaul overdue perhaps (float needle stuck/sticking open)? Just guessing of course as it's impossible to diagnose remotely.
Thank you, John, very informative and clear. I hit a bit of a snag trying to figure out how to keep the engine from turning while trying to loosen the pulley bolt, but eventually got it: my wife wedged a large screwdriver in the flywheel teeth against the ignition coil. Would have loved to hear how you did it. Cheers.
I used the mechanic's most beloved tool - an *impact wrench* . If I didn't have one however, I would have likely locked the flywheel the same way you/your wife did. Might of first tried to lock the pulley by engaging the PTO and secure one of the blades, but I imagine it would have slipped. Hope the rest of the repair goes well & thanks for watching 👍🙂
haha, right! Well, thank you for the quick reply. You can imagine my disappointment at finding the compression release mechanism on the camshaft intact and working fine. Turned to be a bent intake push rod ... no wonder it exhibited all the symptoms you cited. I bought the repair kit but not sure now if I should use all the parts that come with it (gaskets notwithstanding) - what would you recommend?
My biggest question would be how did the pushrod get bent? There has to be an underlying reason. If it were me and I had everything apart and had all the parts, I would likely put the new camshaft in regardless the condition of the original - but that's just me. Still, before doing any of that, my main focus would be trying to find out why the intake pushrod was bent in the first place. This can be caused by a sticking valve but there are other possible reasons - use your Google Fu.
Thank you, John. Yes, of course - that's the big question. The only clue I have is that when I opened the valve cover, I found the (I'm guessing intake) rocker arm and its setting nut really loose. I assume it had loosened slowly over time until ... boom!
I agree the supplied power adaptor is useless as it does not have a ground connection, but the supplied euro type power cord is a grounded type and works just fine here in europe when used with the appropriate socket outlet.
Quick question re: the Silver Leaf R&B - did all of the silver parts get the R&B treatment, or only a handful of parts where it made sense to use the R&B? Thanks!
@@Rchelicopterfun thanks for letting me know! I'm just under half way with the printing, and I've just started laying down the silver on the dome and blue on the associated panels
Thank you for this video! My upper bushing was also not where it should have been, and gears looked just like yours. 20 year old Epicurean model. Waiting on parts, can’t wait to get back to making bread.
Covered in the 1-year follow up video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QND8n_ArNRo.html However, you basically answered your own question in that many shops won't even touch them. This DIY equipment works fine for "regular/common" size wheels/tires that the majority of us have, but if you're unfortunate enough to use wide or low profile RFT's, then you get to pay the big coin for the cream of the crop specialty tire shops (often the dealer) with the costly equipment and skilled technicians to do the work.
It makes you wonder where Briggs and Stratton are finding and hiring their engineers and engine designers. What universities these morons are coming out of😮.
What great information!. I’m pretty stoked about this model. I don’t have a scope other than a really small rinky-dink portable one, and this one will definitely serve me for my life. I’m sure. Thank you for this video. It was very, very helpful.
Not well. The grass all gathers and clumps badly on the discharge/outlet side of the deck (the right side on this specific deck). With wet grass/long grass, it will actually clog that side of the deck up so badly without the mulching diverter, the belt will actually start slipping on the blade spindle pully (at least on this machine it does).
Appreciate if you could help answer my doubts: Looking at the radio monitoring, the elevator servo always moves twice percentage as much as the alileron and pitch servos. I am confused if it is correct on bench.
Recall you your basic trigonometry. Pit & Ail are at a tangential angle. The math is fully covered in OpenTX University how the mixing sin & cos calculations are done on the tangents of the swash. Here is a link to the CCPM trig calculations page on their site: open-txu.org/home/special-interests/helicopter/ccpm-for-taranis/ Now you understand why I'm a huge fan of OpenTX U.
The reason to do lash just past TDC is to ensure that you aren't doing lash on the compression release. Just past TDC is the beginning of the power stroke. Both valves better be closed at that point.
Great videos. Have you ever considered using self balancing ceramic tire beads? They are pretty common these days and are available for commercial and passenger applications. I have successfully used them on my motorcycle tires.
Thanks for watching. I personally don't use/like balance beads and go over the two primary reasons why in the 5th video in the series in the Q&A part of the video (starts about 1/2 through the video): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pr4bwIlc69o.html
As I stated in the video and the title, this is Part 3 "Mounting & Balancing". Dismounting is covered in Part 2: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wXsloeT0QhE.html One year follow-up covers both with tips: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QND8n_ArNRo.html
As explained in the video, it comes in both RTF and BTF versions. The RTF version with radio is about $40 USD more. See E200 product link in description for various options.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you so much for the reply , I'm relatively new to this hobby so couldn't follow while I was watching the video . Thank you and Have a great day ahead .
Spot on on the balancing. For me personally, it's not worth the money to buy a balancer. It would just end up being more of a headache. I'd be removing wheels to clean or rebalancing them every month. I deal with a lot of deep mud, a little deep snow, and some ice. So, I use airsoft BBs as balance beads. If I get a wheel full of mud during a recovery, when I get back to good road the BBs move around in the tire to rebalance the extra weight....
Adapters? If you are referencing the duck-head mod you can make them yourself (welding skills required) or purchase ready made. Links in description. The duck-head mod is also covered in more detail in part 2 of the series: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wXsloeT0QhE.html
Seeing that Boxster 986 in the background, I know you're a handy man with mechanical knowledge without even watching the video. I have a Boxster S 986 myself, so I know all the fun you have with keeping that car running properly. I also just bought a John Deere S100 which I'm assuming probably has the same engine. So here's looking forward to a cam replacement at 120 hours if I'm lucky and I have an excellent video of how to repair it thanks to you. This is a great tutorial, thank you.
I have an x13 from genteq, when I test from 1 to 2 or 2 to 3 or 3 to 4 or 4 to 5 I get open. I bought a brand new motor and I get the same result with a multimeter. Why don't I get a certain resistance reading between the windings?
A customers E100 that I'm working on is currently doing the same thing. Poorly designed garbage. Damn mower even has a gearcase made out of plastic of all things!
Hi John. Thanks for video. Really helpful.. ive just bought the Falcon K110 heli. I had the K100. How do I program the remote to work a different helicopter? Kind regards 👍👍
I saw a video where the mechanic said that the valves being out of adjustment puts a load on the decompression mechanism and recommended to adjust the valves yearly. It starts at 45 seconds and ends at 90 seconds. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ymLR4Jy2jEM.html
The best solution that has been offered in the comments by a power equipment shop owner who has done many of these is to round the back edge of the decompression pin. He is convinced this is the final fix and has never had a single decompression failure after this simple mod on OE and aftermarket cams alike. It makes perfect sense that this mod would solve the issue so the tappet doesn't slam against the pin when the engine bounces backwards when stopping (compression bounce). It's also likely why there is fairly good evidence that leaving the PTO engaged (blades engaged) when turning off the engine seems to help as their rotating inertia prevents the engine from bounce back when stopping. He sent this pin rounding mod procedure to B&S in hopes it would be implemented on new cams or at minimum a tech bulletin - crickets. By the way, my valve lash was in specified adjustment as you saw, and the pin still broke so not to sure if having correct valve adjustment has much impact (no pun intended). It of course never hurts to keep them in adjustment in the off chance it actually helps a bit.
I personally think the boat set sail to that final destination many years ago, and this poor compression release design is one of correlation and not causation. Regardless, the end result is the same... The consumers and Briggs workers are the ones to pay for the bad decisions of poor management who prioritize profit over all else.
