On choosing kilt cloth 

That sounds inventive, but it is NOT best-practice (or even 'suitable') for a kilt alteration. When a kilt needs to be shortened it is always done so from the top, not the bottom. Oh, and I'm not a 'doctor'.

I've not used 'scotchguard', but I would think so...

Their (Dalgliesh's) 70 cm wide 16 oz. cloth (K1-74N) is top-of-the-line. They no longer make 'double-width' (140cm wide) cloth with a kilting selvedge, but rather with a 'tuck' selvedge - but this tuck selvedge edge seems far, far superior to the other stuff that I've seen. I'm going to make a kilt from it and test it to destruction, just to see 'if' and 'how much better' it stands up than that produced by other mills. I consider 11 oz cloth to be too light for use in a kilt.

I don't know of any other mills that make proper kilt cloth.

Well....the swatches give an idea of the relative quality of the cloth - but that's no help if they don't send a piece that includes a section of the woven selvedge edge. There may well be other mills that weave acceptable cloth but in my experience, the 16-oz cloth (product code K1/74N) woven by DC Dalgliesh Ltd/Dunsdale Mill/ Selkirk/Scotland is the best available today, and is as good or better than what has ever been available. My reputation rests on their high quality - and If they ever cease trading then I will retire from that moment.

@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 all they had sent was one sett of the davidson basically what you stick in your swatch book. But thank you for the list I'll have to start looking around.

@@SuperJhon360 If you go to their website and use their 'search' function (found on their 'custom woven fabrics' page) you'll find a list of the Davidson tartans that they have (as yet) entered into their online library. If the particular sett that you want isn't there, send them a photo of it and they WILL weave it. They don't keep physical samples of every tartan on hand.

I don't know - perhaps it's only available in 'ancient' because there was a demand for it at the time?

You mention PV, but have you tried proper wool cloth? I'd be surprised if it wasn't superior...

@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 I'd like to have a pv one because I'd be working in it and I wouldn't want to ruin the wool one.

Yes, although its' a very short list: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JMYsfMQdE3c.html

@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 USA Kilts and Celtic Traditions mentioned they can get regimental wool in about 6 different tartans from HOE. Have you ever heard of HOE? Thank you for the resources. In regards to designing a tartan and registering it, do you know of any videos or sources that can explain the language of a tartan so than I can properly communicate the design/pattern to be used?

@@michaelconley2896 I HAVE of course heard of - and used cloth from- that source, but I was hoping that you'd 'read between the lines ' when I started that I consider Dalgliesh cloth to be the only cloth worth my while. the 22 ounce stuff made in recent years isnt anywhere near the quality of what was woven in the past - it tears FAR too easily and it doesn't press well.

@@michaelconley2896 I can't think of any 'stand-alone' references for tartan design - although I believe that Scotweb has a tartan design app - but I'll get back to you with some book titles to look for

I suspect that (What I regard as) the decline in quality is due to several factors - 1) the decline in use - where once soldiers "dressed for the activity in which they are engaged" I now see office-workers wearing 'field' clothing **. 2) Replacement was more affordable back when each battalion QM had it's Tailoring Cell, but no-one these days can afford a new kilt every year. 3) Lack of competition - there aren't as many mills making the stuff and thus striving to out-perform each other. 4) supply is a constant struggle between the consumer (the soldiers who wear it) and the bean-counters - who at their worst 'know the price of everything and the value of nothing.***

** one of my favourite trolls is to go into an Army office while wearing my Bespoke coat, knitted tie, kilt and hand-made shoes (the whole of which makes me look as tasty as can be without resorting to surgery), shooting my cuffs, adjusting my tie and saying "GODS it feels good to be dressed as an Officer and a Gentleman!" - and then I give him that head-to-heels look of pitying wonder (you left the house looking like THAT?), suppress a well-bred shudder and turn away....

*** I do not slander ALL support elements here - as an Infantryman I knew that battles are won by Logistics - but peacetime bureaucrats-in-uniform have my most-profound contempt.

That's the "Stewart Old" sett (DC Dalgleish # 592141)

@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 Thanks for the information, but it seems "Stewart Old" is the other tartan that is seen in the background. I meant the one you were handling.

@@patrickkeller2193 oh...right (haha) yeah...for the life of me I cannot recall. I'll have to go back through my old Order Books to see.

@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 Bummer, but thanks for replaying anway. This is an older video after all.

​@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 I think found it, it seems to be a variation on the Gunn clan tartan, the other variation being one where two of the black stripes are replaced with blue.

Dalgliesh cloth is better. I refer you to my video on the subject.

That's 'Gordon'.

@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 Thank you...!

No, it's not. I find it reassuring. It says "I know what I'm talking about".

@@damonturnbull5903 when I watch myself as I 'lecture' I am reminded of a Revivalst preacher or some Victorian backwoods politician giving a stump speech (in fact, I believe that this mannerism is the origin of the word 'tub-thumping')