kevin....pulled unit and found oil level sensor already disconnected. (it grounds the mag should the oil level get too low) Gen was also producing 115VAC immediately upon fire up. Installed a spare control board and all is well! Rebuilt the mounts due to wear while I was into the unit. Truth is, I've owned this gen for 18years now and it's been constant work to keep running. I was impressed with you work on your unit....hope your Onan delivers for you!......david
THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF.... "I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR" It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen dipstick (it won't start if low oil because of sensors) then I checked gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety sensors), sparkplug checked for good spark, also checked the manual reset circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the generator to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed like gum by rats at the back of starting switch generator panel so I replaced them, at this time the generator started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so then finally I knew it was internal electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, (I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person. I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!! Then I assembled everything back together and... bingo it's runing like a champion!!! For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel). Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed. Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover because you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!! After testing the gen with the help of a gasoline container, a piece of hose and 12v battery, I did put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, then it was ready to be installed at my RV. Once the gen was installed back at my motorhome I started it to be tested for 120v electricity but not before flipping the AC circuit switch (on) at the gen starting control panel (sometimes hiding under or around the panel) to be able to transfer power to my RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, my motorhome it's equipped with GFCI so I reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at my main breakers panel, so I turned my main breaker (on) along the others ones but no power was present at my breaker main switch (faulty main braker) so I flipped it many times, sometimes you can make it work again, mine did work, lol!!! I'm happy because everything works now including the refrigerator for cold drinks and AC for this crazy summer, lol! Later I'll buy me a new main braker, for now this is a resurrected generator story that needed to be shared. If this can help eaven one person to save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!
You may have a problem finding anything other than the correct Onan carb that will work properly. Most any low pressure electric fuel pump will work ok. Thanks for watching.
Seems you had 2 electrical problems. You show here that you replaced the relay in the PC board, but it still wouldn't run if the start switch wasn't being pushed. So did you replace the start relay, and did that solve the "won't stay running" problem?
Kevin....good job! Wondered where you got a print for the circuit board? I've got a KV model that dies when I release the start switch.....will get into troubleshooting it tomorrow. (today's the Sabbath)....david
Where did you have that hot lead attached to on the board from the positive battery post? Is there a place you specifically used on the board to clip it
Kevin Crawford you’re welcome. I’ve got I believe the same problem. I’m in the process of chasing it right now. It’s a real bear. Control board isn’t sending power to the ignition side of the starter solenoid. Real pain in the neck
Kevin,....my 1994 Onan 2800 has never ran as advertised. Currently it will run smoothly under load for 10minutes then get rough. (sometimes even tripping my electrical) Turning the main mixture screw makes no difference. Carb has been thoroughly cleaned. My gut tells me to look at the float level however it will run good for 10minutes. Also, when it starts to run rough the governor begins to move my throttle plate back and forth. I bought the Roadtrek RV from a little old lady 20yrs or so ago and truth is that it's always run rough. (I did replace the motor mounts the last time I had the unit open) Am wondering your thoughts?.....david
@@kevincrawford2027 Kev, My choke is operating perfect.(full open when warm) I also cleaned the pilot jet end hole. (.018 go, .020 no go) As previously commented the unit will run smooth for approx 10 minutes before it changes it's tune. I had ran quite a bit of seafoam mixed 50/50 so I can't go along with "bad gas). Truth is, it has NEVER ran well and I've owned it nearly 20yrs. Exercise has been performed monthly. I'm beginning to wonder about valve lash....(float level?)....walt...tulsa,ok
Kev...the problem with my unit running hot and sometimes even dying was blockage around the outlet around the tailpipe. (exhausting the cooling air from the flywheel fan) Now, for some reason, it's dying as soon as I apply a load. I did remove the unit from my RV to install a genuine fuel pump. (I've had a NAPA fuel pump mounted externally but went back with a genuine Onan pump)....thoughts? I can't believe the unit is running so smoothly that the FP can be related....
Kevin, got my 2800 running smoother then ever, but, when applying a load it dies. (not every time but often) The governor is working and when the load is applyed the moment it advances the throttle is when it dies. The factory carb is clean,intake gaskets good. I'm what carb circuit could cause this issue. Everything points to the motor not taking the charge of air as the governor advances. I generally like to stick with original parts....david...tulsa,ok
Almost sounds like it is to lean. Is the idle jet clean? I know they don't go to idle but if the jet is blocked it makes an overall difference. Manually applying applying some chock and applying load might help to determine if it is running lean .
@@kevincrawford2027 Kev, I'm with you. With no accelerator pump to help make the transition when load is applied thus motor would rely on suction for more fuel. The Onan manual comments to tune main mixture, then open 1/4 of a turn richer. Most motors will "pop" before dying as the result of lean mixture. (mine doesn't) Idle mixture passage is clean. Will be playing later today....thanks for your comment...david
papa junk, I have same genny and have same issues. i also have some wires that i dont know where they go. can you help? also dont know where the oil pressure wire connects to. someone cut it and i have no idea where it connects to the harness???
Hi. Know any way to bypass all the junk on this and just supply 12v where it needs to be, supply leads to starter and fuel pump and let it run? ( Btw does the fuel pump always need to run? ) thanks anyone that can answer...
@@jmenterprise3764 thanks. I don't know if that's true or not, alot of cars have return lines for fuel pressure, seems to me pump always runs. My particular issue was not the electronics at all. There were three leaks in rubber gas line hoses, from hardened rubber. So hard clamps did not clamp tight. Two dripped gas and the third was sucking air..into the fuel pump...the rattle pump couldn't supply good fuel pressure across the RV to generator. Replaced those hoses and whaddya know, it ran! Then after running several times and maybe an hour overall, it runs smooth, starts instantly, powers fine. It's a 1989. Too bad it has points..I'd like to adjust them but hafta drop the unit to do that. So.. she's running fine as is..for the little use I occasionally have. Anyway it was fun watching all the videos on it, 😂 good luck with yours...
Hey Kim could you get back with me and tell me the name of the place where you got that relay oh that's what's wrong with my board also, and I have no problem paying for Relay instead of a $200 board excuse me my name is Brendon Coss
