We have used the ru-vid.comUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
Thank You bro I'm just in the middle of overhauling my Onan 5500 Marquis Gold, the oil has never been changed it was black, and I also put new plugs in. tomorrow I will clean the card, and then I want to watch your valve cleaning video. Thank you for sharing these videos it's a big help.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. My generator would run but as soon as a load was put on it, it would die. Cleaned the carb and it’s running and powered our microwave and space heater just fine.
THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF.... "I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR" It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen dipstick (it won't start if low oil because of sensors) then I checked gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety sensors), sparkplug checked for good spark, also checked the manual reset circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the generator to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed like gum by rats at the back of starting switch generator panel so I replaced them, at this time the generator started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so then finally I knew it was internal electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, (I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person. I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the air cooling assembly, next was the aluminium fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one) for this one I used a wheel pulling tool, finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!! Then I assembled everything back together and... bingo it's runing like a champion!!! For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel). Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed. Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover because you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and also at your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two...just kidding, lol!!! After testing the gen with the help of a gasoline container, a piece of hose and 12v battery, I did put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, then it was ready to be installed at my RV. Once the gen was installed back at my motorhome I started it to be tested for 120v electricity but not before flipping the AC circuit switch (on) at the gen starting control panel (sometimes hiding under or around the panel) to be able to transfer power to my RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, my motorhome it's equipped with GFCI so I reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at my main breakers panel, so I turned my main breaker (on) along the others ones but no power was present at my breaker main switch (faulty main braker) so I flipped it many times, sometimes you can make it work again, mine did work, lol!!! I'm happy because everything works now including the refrigerator for cold drinks and AC for this crazy summer, lol! Later I'll buy me a new main braker, for now this is a resurrected generator story that needed to be shared to the RV community.
Excellent Video you are the best. show step by step. i bought a RV and ask the ex owner how to start the generator he told me he had the RV for over 5 year and never know how to do it. i try it watching you video, notice didnt start. watch this video took apart the cab. clean it and ready for tomorrow to put it back again hoping it will start. thank you at front.
Excellent Video! Thanks for making it, very helpful once you decide that the carb is the issue. You might mention that using starting fluid is an easy way to determine that its a fuel system issue.
Great video!!. Thanks .... If you compress the spring platform with a C clamp, it gives you more room to install the carb and Air box... Just a suggestion!!... God Bless!
Nice video. Good clear instructions. I am cleaning the carb for my 2800 right now. It does look like (at least on the video) you might have forgotten to put the aluminum washer back in the bowl when you reassembled. (@ 15:30 )
Sir, you are right. He did miss the aluminum washer, not sure if he thinks you were referring to the copper one but I also missed that aluminum washer and now I am going to tear it down again and make sure it gets installed. I was wondering where that damn washer went. Thinks for helping me to see it 👍👍
Like the video. Thanks for posting. Only thing is........you didn't show that you reinstalled the flat washer that fits inside the bowl between the bowl and the fuel nozzle/main jet. 🧐
I’m getting a code 3 blinks only i changed the oil and fuel filter and cleaned the carb still runs about 1 min and dies then less and less unless I reset code . Onan 5500 20 hours only on a 2021 trailer . Could it be the oil pressure sensor
1) With a CARB THAT clean, strongly suspect Carb/ Main jet was NOT the issue, but 2) YES, that was the MAIN JET/ HIGH SPEED attached to the solenoid; However, solenoid does NOT regulate, it ONLY turns GAS flow FROM FLOAT BOWL TO ENGINE ON/ OFF, and (Purpose) is "anti-diesel" to prevent dieseling/ running after turned off w/ subsequent "Muffler Explosions/ backfire" from unburned raw gas being dumped into hot muffler = i.e. GRASS FIRE PREVENTION IF BOONDOCKING. CURIOUS: Did you later have to go back and replace FUEL PUMP to cure Surge? Fluctuating FLOAT bowl FUEL LEVEL due to intermittent low flow/ no flow from FP most likely? Fuel Pump Proper TEST is FUEL PRESSURE, per Onan, But (Mine, 20-yo Emerald Plus has Metal line between pump/ carb, so pump REPLACE easier than Pressure Test :-) NICE video, good job.
Yea my own carb was clean because I run my generator all the time and keep almost no fuel in the tank so before I run it I pour a gallon or 2 of fresh fuel. the main point of the video was to show how to clean a really dirty carb for those that may have that issue. the correct diagnostic for my unit is that it's staying choked too long and is running rich if i move the choke to open on my own it will run smooth and stay that way. what i need is to replace the spring mechanism that controls the choke for low temp starting. should make it for a good future video.
@@immortalengines1605 CHECK YOUR VACUUM LINES TO THE choke pull-off diaphram, then vacuum leak check the diaphram? If it does not pull back to set point, then it will run too rich (until) spring open choke on temp?... which might also explain the miss you thought you heard when first cranked? Luck to ya.. BUT also go back to 7-min in video, strongly suspect FUEL LEVEL LOW in float bowl when you took it apart, probably/ likely intermittent/ low flow from FPump?
@@immortalengines1605 Check the choke pull off diaphram and hose, then leak check both w/ vac pump? (But one more thought) on Main Jet Emulsion Tube, on old tecumseh, they would gum w/ varnish, and surge, I had a drill bit that was good fit, (prob 1/8"?) so would slide into tube and twirl w/ fingers, to scrape varnish loose.. was not removing any metal, and if it inserted w/ NO inference felt, that was not the issue... but probably quick cured at least 12 complaints. Luck...
It was running on all actually. after making this video I figured it was having issues with the choke. If i opened it manually it would sound great then it would run rich for longer than usual but eventually warm up enough for the choke mechanisms to deactivate and go to the open position.
FYI its not recommended to run these for short periods of time so turning it on once in a while then shutting it off is detrimental. Run it for longer periods of time at longer intervals in the future.
