In this channel, I will show you how I went from one free broken generator to buying my dream motorcycle. Here you can find tutorials on common issues as well as help on diagnostics and more complex repairs, vlogs, motovlogs and epic rides on the beautiful Sierra Nevada and Lake Tahoe.
You have explained it beautifully.. Good presentation. One thing to ask.My generator EU 30is is showing starting problem.The technician cleaned and reinstalled it.But the machine goes to smooth running after 3 or 4 stops. The tecnician told to replace carburetor and its quite expensive. Now its ten years old. A thorough cleaning can make the machine run smoothly? Or have to replace it.Please suggest.
@@marutipalakkad clean carb one more time and check the strainer that's located in the fuel valve right where it goes inside the tank. While there drain all old fuel and add new clean one for reasembly. If it still tuns poorly. Buy a knockoff carb from Amazon for $20-30 and enjoy 😉
Thank You bro I'm just in the middle of overhauling my Onan 5500 Marquis Gold, the oil has never been changed it was black, and I also put new plugs in. tomorrow I will clean the card, and then I want to watch your valve cleaning video. Thank you for sharing these videos it's a big help.
I bought the cpe012207 board and the wires on the generator aren't the same collor,the new board is different plugs,it runs fine and it generates power,the remote plug works fine for speed works fine,but the plug for the run,over load,and low doesn't work here are some pictures of the old and new boards,wire color code are different,can u tell me what is wrong,😮I can't find out how to send pictures
Have the same or very similar generator and to me seems the auto choke is stuck on. From near new it seemed to only run correctly when using auto start with remote and the choke would turn off on its own then run fine but now it is running as though the choke is constantly on and pushing the button makes no difference and it’s consuming a lot of fuel. Is this a thing ? Thank you.
Do not run it like that! if the choke is constantly on then it sucks in more fuel washing the cylinder walls of the oil it needs to stay lubricated. do and oil change asap. remove carb and clean/lube the shafts where the tiny motors connect for both throttle and choke
I got a DBholders subframe and mine is a 2006, the holes for the subframe are different sizes and from looking at the oem diagrams theres just a washer and a bolt that goes in there for the 2017 one. did they change bolt sizes or does the washer fill the wider hole or how does it mount? Because as it is right now i would need to get something to fill up that bigger hole unless it goes into the subframe and the sides of the bolt holds it in.
this is a GREAT video, but for anyone reading this that does their oil changes you should know that the type of oil used is temperature sensitive. Refer to your owners manual for which grade of oil to use - 15w-40 is the appropriate grade for the summer. If you're in a colder environment where it freezes during the winter you'll need a lighter oil for the winter. I travel a LOT in my RV so I carry all 3 grades of oil with me so no matter what I have the appropriate oil on hand.
Hello, a few months ago I bought the predator 3500, and I only used it a few times and I kept it for about a month and now that I turned it on it does not remain stable, I hope you answer me what you think is the problem.
The plastic screw on the side of the carb is a idle screw, not a throttle stop. You tighten it all the way and then loosen it slowly until the idle doesnt change. If this screw is in too far, the idle won't come down in eco mode.
Tengo un generador modelo IK 2600 h soy tecn y estuvo 1 año parado fui a entenderlo y nada procedí a limpiar el carburador y probar los swichs y la bujía no funcionaba la cambie y nada procedí a probarla y resulta que pasa la tension una vez y después no funciona la volví a cambiar y me hizo lo mismo pregunta será la tarjeta ?
tiene aceite al nivel correcto? el aceite tiene un sensor que corta la chispa a la bujia si esta bajo. la computadora nunca corta el funcionar del motor. otras cosas por probar son el boton de "Run" si no cierra el circuito puede que corte la chispa. ultimo me fijaria en la igniccion que genera la chispa con el tiempo del motor. aveces se dañan por estar paradas
You should make an exhaust extension instead. I'm not familiar with the Co sensor on these. And if i was it probably wouldn't be a good idea to show people how to disconnect them.
nothing is impossible it might be possible to retrofit an ABS system but a lot of parts would be needed for that one to work. in my case the bike doesn't have ABS
Thank you sir, this helped me out tremendously. I was struggling to get mine started and changed out the ignition coil due to no spark. Then still wouldn’t start only to find those jets plugged up pretty bad. Cleaned them and she started right up. Hoping to come across how to adjust the valves on it though just to make sure it is good.
Johnathan, appreciate your video so much! I'm in Montana, and my predator 3500 has been running just crappy. After watching your video a couple times, I purchased a jet assortment with a 75 jet in it. Just put that in, the original factory install was a 77. I'd previously changed the spark plug, no change, it would still chug and oscillate rpms. The new 75 jet did the trick, and it's running like a dream! Thank you. Hope to see more videos soon.
I cringed at the fact that you didn't have any jack stands to save your butt if any of that moved... If you ever decide to do anything like that again invest in some jack stands it's a very cheap form of life insurance! You're way too young to end your life for lack of a jack stand or two!
Hello, I want to swap in a Champion module into my Yamaha 3000, do you know what the ac voltage requirement is from the Sub Coil on the KIPOR or Champion? The Yamaha is around 15 to 22 vac. The Yamaha has a 5 wire stepper motor so I will need to swap to a 4 wire. Thanks
