Be very careful when re-installing the new seal in the timing cover, I've destroyed quite a few of those seals (new out of the package) from the crankshaft not being clean or from the crankshaft key getting pushed backward into the seal and puncturing it when installing the flywheel. Also, I am impressed that you were able to remove the timing cover with the gasket all in one piece - I always have to scrape away the old material when I pull a timing cover because the gaskets never stay intact.
I tapped around the cover with a rubber mallet, that may have helped it pull off, usually have to use a plastic scraper. I don't think I used any silicone when I put it on, don't recall the service manual indicating to use it, but probably will add rtv this time.
I always use some brush on gasket sealer on thin gaskets like that and make sure the cover is not warped That seal looked out of round on the video Looks like a well designed set up with the large drain for the oil to return
That is a huge drain into the sump isn't it? Haha, like the idea on gasket sealer, think I'll put a light coat of RTV on the gasket and watch how I put that crank seal on. It's definitely not round.
Thankfully they pop apart if you know what you're doing, pretty easily. Do you use grease in between the lips of the inner seal of the oil seal? I pack mine level and then some. lol but yeah that seal looked a little oblong. for sure. you could see it when you moved it around.
Hi Andrew, I just use grease on the seal surface to assist in installation. This new crank oil seal and breather tube fixed the oil leak. I’ve put a couple hours on now and it’s all dry, no misting or anything like that.
Wheel Horse forums say they are common 1” trailer bearings and seals. May want to look into that or take out seals and bearings and have Napa match them.
IMPORTANT - Before installing any new oil seal, always apply oil or grease inside the seal and on the shaft to keep the rubber seal lubricated and cool until crankcase oil can reach it. With no prior lubrication, the dry rubber will get hot from friction and burn away, causing another oil leak. Do the job right the first time, and it won't have to be done again.
The seal had 400 hours on it and was lubed over 10 years ago when it was installed. This tractor is used in 90º weather and -20ºF weather so seals wear out.
If you ever have trouble with an Onan engine and are at a dead end. Let me know. I have a good friend who is an Onan specialist. He builds them every day. He also has a huge inventory of parts
Good to know John. I did a complete restoration on this engine and tractor about 10 years ago. They're great motors but always good to know someone to get parts.
400 hours since the rebuild and I use this tractor all season, so guess it's time for some love. Only took me 20 minutes to get to this point, love these engines, just so easy to work on. Course Wheel Horse made it easy based on how the engine is mounted, have access to the pto side as well as the flywheel side.
Oil leaks are a mess, especially small ones. They're hard to find and hide behind grass, fuzz and dust. Should have the new seal and gasket soon. I've been cutting the lawn with my garbage picked Toro mower, works great but its hot and it takes over an hour.
I love Onan's, I'd only repower if I couldn't get parts and right now, parts are still plentiful. A Vanguard or comparable industrial engine would cost more than the tractor is worth.
Hi Craig. Just was viewing your video. I believe you are missing a ball bearing about the size of a bb. It raises the shaft for the flyball cup fork. It goes down into the timing cover hole. The ball bearing goes in there first, to keep the fork centered over the cup. There should be info on it in parts manuals. Part # HE510-0105. Good luck.
