One bit done - Restoring Colin Furze BMW E30 

I have to admit that whole corner was a challenge getting in, yep had to put a mask on cause it was a bit stinky :D

When do we get an update on the underground garage? :D

F**kin' 'ell Colin, your English teacher will be crying themselves to sleep tonight after reading that!!!!

powered rotisserie on wheels so they can move their hung cars around their shop more easily - when colin???

​@@stefanmadsen5605but it must have real hp when it's done by colin... "Fastest rotisserie on the planet - Fusion powered rotisserie" or something like that.

i also found my way here because of Furze! They've got great content. Masters of their craft!!

Yep i'm looking forward to that, more than just a patch going on there.

yes the cost would probably outweigh the value thats in the car , but we arent doing this to get you to bring your car to us or any specialist, we are showing you how to do this yourself at home with simple tools.

You sound like the guy who would protest in front of his employer chanting, “PPE! Not for me!” cuz he doesn’t wanna see his kids grow up. “Black lung, that’s for real men!”😂😂

What welder do you have? What's minimum volts and amps it can go? Issue with modern IGBT MIG welders is the cheaper ones, you know, the 200A the ones that look pretty much all the same but change logo's all the time which is what most folks seem to get, just don't have good enough internals for low voltage & amperage (for sheet metal). So they stop at 15 volts minimum if you're lucky, when ideally you wanna be at around 12.7-13.7. You can sorta get a little around the issue, dial the volts as low as the welder goes with just enough wire speed that it doesn't sputter, let the gas sorta "moosh" the tack. Another tip is to angle the gun slightly toward the original steel, but have the wire/nozzle aimed at the fresh steel, the new panel, which can handle the heat better, then once you have a pool going on the new steel, slightly jink the nozzle just a tad over to original steel, that way the heat draws the pool over onto the original steel and the gas flow will help "flow it outwards" as I call it, once you see you've got good bond (you'll be able to tell with a little bit of practice), instantly let the trigger go and let the tack/weld cool down before you start the next, that's what these video's don't show, the cooldown period, you wanna do 3-4 tacks then move onto somewhere else. Next time you look for a welder for sheet metal, you want one that can go as low as 10-15 amps and 12-13 volts, tops, that'll give you enough to work with, it's about how low so you get heat control for tacking sheet.

@@ToreDL87 I have a gasless and also a gas mig welder. The gasless one welds down to 25 amps or less and is brilliant on 1mm steel that I am using for repairs but the metal in those c pillars (the flat, non structural parts) is only about 0.5 mm thick, like biscuit tin. Had very few problems on wings, doors etc.

@@ToreDL87 thank you for the advice. I didn't realise I had to go so low on power. I will try what you have said. Much appreciated.

@@ToreDL87Did what you said today- start on the new steel, angled towards the old and drag over. Used lowest setting (20 amps for me ) and it worked a treat....Cheers. 😀

That corner... Yuck.

thank you for the support :)

I was assuming that was him correcting the one from the other video...

I'm curious too as the other side was the same. Maybe a previous repairer put them on the wrong way up?

I wish there was. But they would have to supply fuel as well cause that's the bit that costs a fortune 😂