I have a alternator with a voltage regulator built in and I'm doing a one wire conversion on a Ford LTD 2 1977 should I even use the plug at all or the wires in the plug that go into the alternator for the one wire conversion? the problem that I'm having is that the alternator is not charging the battery
@Dustin Bynum i never figured it out..one day while driving it to get the breaks bled..the brake pedal stuck to the floor while going 50 on the freeway..i had to crash into a wall to stop myself..smh..
I have a 1990 Chevy 1500 won't charge alternator is good it has only one wire going to the plug and the one that bolts up how do I wire direct please let me know
I have just purchased a procomp 1 wire alternator (130 amps) it also has a 4 prong female plug provision at the top with the letters P L F R ,I understand the L to mean light (warning light) my question is would it be ok to connect the warning light to this terminal ???
When running, your battery should should read in the mid 14 volt range, if its not, there's an issue with your charging system. Lots of videos on sussing that out. Good luck.
I have a 2006 Ford mustang gt. At times my oil pressure gauge and alternator volt gauge will stop working and not always at the same time, at times both will be fine. Currently both are not working. Any ideas?
Sounds like a bad or loose ground, check engine block ground make sure its nice and tight , wiring could be corroded where it meets engine block before you tighten might as well look to make sure its clean, same thing happened to my truck, but my oil pressure switch was also leaking lots of oil, cleaned it up put some teflon on oil pressure switch and it was good to go
Why has no one come up with an elegant high amp fuse for hot-rod's. Flimsy plastic garbage like what painless sells, or the car audio stuff. Which is good but not appropriate under the hood of allot of rides.
Something at 80 and something at 120 as well. I've seen burnt cars. I'm a big believer in fuses. Anything that just screws into wire or clamps on a sleeve is not a solution its a point of failure. I like heavy duty ring lugs or just straight to the pin on the back of a fuse block. For my personal stuff I like the marine breakers, but for customers with older automobiles. Nothing will be period correct I'm aware but we not doing fusable links. I just think that a little discrete block with 4 maxi fuses or something like some of the Audio distribution blocks with provisions for ring lugs or being able to do a solder slug not just clamping on wire/sleeve.
I can bolt an amg fuse in more discretely than one of those. I don't quite think your grasping what I'm looking for.A stand alone generic relay box that just did fuses would be sweet. something with a footprint like 1x3 inches black with a factory looking cover. For more than one fuse.