Open E Tuning Rhythm & Slide Guitar Lesson | Chords, Shuffles & Licks! 

Thank you infinitely! HareKrishna.GodBless❤️🙏😀

Awesome 😎 Follow-up lesson coming any time soon? Thanks for all your content 🙏 Music makes the world better 🤙🏻

guitar and love brother

You need to get them fedora to look the part.

That's that real six string style man. Riff that thing

Do you have small hands and fingers? I use a broken beer bottle long neck. 😂

Yup, you got it!

He does make it sound great. I just started researching scales for open e tuning for slide.

@@douglascollins3335 Careful when tuning to Open E though. You gotta tune UP 3 strings, which means more tension on the strings and guitar neck. It's something you might not want to do if your guitar is vintage or just precious to you. What I ended up doing was tuning down to open D and putting a capo on the 2nd fret. It gives you the same notes as Open E. Maybe you already know this, but I thought I'd mention it as it might be helpful for others who read it in the future.

@@Ervin-1190 I did not know that, thank you for the information.

Hey Fred, open tunings should not cause an issue for your guitar unless it is structurally compromised. I would caution folks using guitars without trust rods not to tune up too high, and certainly not to leave their guitar in these tunings for extended periods of time.

You Will be fine. Trust me! I recomend hard tensión strings in a classic guitar and un an acoustic guitar medium gauge strings

You're attempting to tune up to the notes a full step above what they're supposed to be most likely. Martin uses x bracing, and as much as i hate x series theyre way tougher than a solid top with ladder bracing this is usually played on traditionally, and the 50 year old garbage i play on. Open D And C are better in my opinion anyway and put less stress on. Open E tuning will flex most necks more than standard tuning, but this is just a truss rod adjustment problem. Tune to a lower tuning and youll likely have to take tension OFF the truss rod to maintain a non buzzy neck. In short. Your guitar is built to be hard to break for a well to do beginner, with a laminated neck and composite body with sophisticated bracing, probably the most beat aroundable dreadnought you can get. HOWEVER if your bridge is lifting off the top, or you see lots of distortion in the top behind the bridge (a slight belly is normal) go into a lower tuning and see a luthier. It could possibly detach and injure you. Poor bridge attachment is rampant across many manufacturers. The chances of your neck joint going are slim to none, but look for finish cracks where it meets the body and halfway down the heel where a small block makes up the rest of the heel to save wood as the neck is milled out. Hope this helps you and anyone new as this stuff usually comes fron experience. And when you upgrade get a Seagull guitar at the same price point or lower than yours and dont listen to salesmen that get commission, youll figure out as soon as you strum it. I dont work for them, theyre just the best guitars at this price point and the're made in this hemisphere. Old alvarez are great too. Martin only cares for big spenders, composite guitars sound like shit, i learned the hard way. If by chance yours is wood, this doesnt apply, i dont know the current lineup by heart. Sorry to write an essay but the guitar world is full of bs marketing and i want to help.

Tune to open D and put capo on 2nd fret= Open E. Surprised he did not answer with that.

In my experience, that only works if you’re using a short or medicine style slide like Derek Trucks.

Tune to open D. Capo on 2nd fret= Open E.

@@mikeclifford9366 thanks

Uh....no.