Hey all, if you can't get a hold of an official Frame1 chassis but still want to make one of these, don't worry. There will be 3D printable and laser cuttable designs available soon. GregTurbo will make a vid talking about this pretty soon, and I'll likely make a build guide for the laser cut one, so stay tuned!
@@Earthenmind There were a couple things JLC was confused by with the board files, and Greg has made a revision to resolve that. He ordered some boards and they will be tested soon to confirm everything still works as intended, and once that is the case there shouldnt be anything in particular to worry about. If you want to order them now you can, but they might send an email asking you about a few things. Check the dev updates channel in the Frame1 discord for more details on that. As far as other cases go, I've heard several people talk about how they are planning to design cases. There will likely be a revision to the Fake1 design (www.thingiverse.com/thing:4917086), and there will also likely be at least one layered design similar to my GCCMX (github.com/Crane1195/GCCMX). There are already several keycap designs out there. These ones can be ordered on JLC and the nylon variant is excellent: github.com/rana-sylvatica/circle-keycaps
@@CranesLab This is awesome, thank you! I'll wait for the revisions and check out the Fake1 in the meantime. Super excited to attempt building one myself!
I wish I had seen a video like this when I was just getting started with electronics and soldering. Such a great range of options in case one doesn’t work for you. Would definitely be interested in the usb c solder guide as it would help with other projects as well! Great quality video, subbed!
This is so cool. Thank you for such a clear and concise guide! If possible, I would love a future guide on how to edit the PCB files for anyone that wants to try alternate layouts.
You can flash a different firmware to this PCB that would let it work for fighting games on PC, PS3, Switch, and PS4 games that support PS3 controllers. That firmware is called GP2040: github.com/FeralAI/GP2040 You'd have to change the pinout and recompile it though. If you want help with that at some point, ping me in my Discord server and I can help you out: craneslab.xyz/discord
@@CranesLab woah! thanks for pointing me to it! Sucks that you can only choose one firmware though at a time though. What if you hook up two pi picos to the switches and have two different ports you can plug into for gamecube/fight pad mode. would that be possible?
@@reignandbongao9497 no prob! you could do that yeah. There is probably also a way to write a bootloader to swap between firmwares on the fly, or just to combine the two firmwares into one, but neither of those would be as easy as just using two picos
Would there be a USB out to PC and a GCC out for console? I'd need some help figuring out the GCC stuff but I'm pretty sure I can figure out the USB output. I need to DIY one of these controllers cause I got carpal tunnel from playing melee
I've done a mechanical keyboard build from a kit before (Pinky4), so a lot of this build is familiar, but I bought pre-made PCBs when I did that. Any more info you could provide on how you get the PCBs would be very helpful. I heard you mention JLC. I've heard of them before. I chose assembly on their site and dropped in the zip file from the github releases for the Open Frame1. Do I need to tweak any of the options or leave a note for them to put the USB-C port and diode on or is all the info in the files? In the PCB assembly section do I pick top side or bottom side or both? Do you know if the USB C to Micro USB B cable on Adafruit would work? Product ID 3879. It doesn't mention OTG like the Amazon one. Would be nice if it worked because it's a lot cheaper and you can get a Pi Pico for much cheaper from Adafruit as well so I could do them in the same order. I think making sure I get all the right parts on the way is probably gonna be more difficult than the actual build. FYI, I don't use Discord on principle, so I'm asking here.
I started to go through with the JLCPCB order, but it needs a BOM file. Is there one provided somewhere that I missed or do I need to make my own? I'm guessing it'd just specify the diode and USB-C port. edit: I figured out the BOM (maybe) by going to the part links in the description, adding to cart, and hitting export, but now I also need a CPL file. It's a shame there isn't more info on this part of the process. I wonder how many people are able to figure this out...
Found the BOM and CPL file in the repo, just not on the releases page. Following along with testing the firmware on the Pi Pico, I don't get the popup that the adapter was connected in Dolphin after dropping on the firmware and replugging the Pico in. I'm on GNU/Linux. I looked at dmesg output after plugging in and I see "Product: WUP-028" and "Manufacturer: Nintendo", so... it probably works. Maybe this info will help someone else.
I've noticed the license on pico-rectangle is horribly restrictive and proprietary. I found an alternative called HayBox that is GPL-3.0, but I'm unsure if it will work well with the Open-Frame1 (does it support the right # of buttons?), and it looks like they don't upload any pre-built binaries which is sort of annoying. I'd rather not install vscode/vscodium as well.
Going one version back they did have a prebuilt firmware for the pico, and the right number of buttons are supported. Has the same control scheme as the other firmware out of the box for its Melee mode.
The description is still missing a link for the internal USB-C port. Also, would love that video on how to solder the ports yourself. I'm thinking of doing a second order and trying to save money by skipping the assembly this time to do it myself. I seemed to have some issues caused by the internal cable causing uneven pressure on the PCB (leading to a lot of bent and broken switch pins), so I think it's probably best to avoid it if you can, that's another thing I'll try to change in a future build, not sure if I can easily change that on a finished build. I think an updated build video with the new PCB/connectors and using a 3D-printed case would be good, since the Frame1 site doesn't seem to ever restock their cases. I'm using a glued case from thingiverse. The pieces are small enough to print on an Ender 3 v2 and then put together with superglue, so that saves money over using JLC for the case if you have a 3D printer around already. I also have some thoughts about the PCB design that I also put in a GitHub issue. The way it is now, it's very difficult to access the BOOTSEL button on the Pico in an emergency dut to it being on top of the PCB inside the case and having to remove all your switches and the PCB to get at it. I think a PCB revision putting it on the bottom would be ideal, but some modified cases with a hole on top to access the button (maybe with a paper clip like resetting a router) could work as well.
In the video, you say "final board" multiple times. Does this mean the board schematic on github isn't the final one or was this video made before the github repo was made public?
The one on GitHub is the final design. This video was made about a month ago with a prerelease version of the board when fine details like that USB port were being ironed out
@@CranesLab finally decided I’m doing this for real, but the PCB ordering process is really confusing me. After I give JLCpcb the files for the pcb it still wants me to choose a bunch of options, and won’t let me order less than 5 boards? Pls Let me know if you can help.
