I’ve been using the yellow wool with an AIO for a one step enhancement for a year or so now with great results. Both my cars have harder paints and I find the yellow pad so versatile. I’m planning to try Uno Protect next time.
@@calebmc3296 An Audi and a VW. You can tell if your paint is on the harder side or the softer side by easily or difficult defects are removed. Softer paints can be trickier to finish down without any micro marring too.
I just used 3D one with the buff and shine ero pads. I tried using Rupes ultra fine pad with Rupes uno pure to finish but I didn’t see any difference after the finishing stage so I just used the 3D one for the rest of the vehicle. My black 4Runner looks awesome. Hope this helps someone.
I absolutely love the yellow wool pad but unfortunately couldn’t cut it (no pun intended) on my friends 2014 silver Audi so had to step up to a blue wool
1. Only your test sections will tell you that. 2. You most likely could. 3. These were designed for the D/A. They do have rotary-specific wool pads available.
They are both for heavy cutting, yet go about doing it differently. It can ultimately come down to what you personally like or prefer to use based on your methods or experience.
I always had a confusion that what should we use for newly painted car?? I mean which will be best to give us a mirror look like shine without damaging the color of the newly painted panels
I hope they're able to see this and answer after a year of the video being uploaded. I have an old car, with NO clearcoat left on the upper half of it. It sat under a tree for 15 years and was covered with sap, being sun baked on. I vigorously washed and scrubbed the sap off, but some sap leeched into the pores of the paint over time. Leaving dark splotches in the paint (with no clearcoat left) Is a wool buffing pad good enough to scrub and buff it to get the sap out of the porous paint?
The only way to know how much clear coat is left is to take measurements, and have data from other examples of that same type of car to compare it against. As for fixing that, you'd want to try the least aggressive method first, and work your way up the scale as needed to accomplish your goals. No need to break out the sledgehammer if a ball-peen hammer will do the job!
Hi Todd. How in the world did y'all get that red car to glow like that. That's what I'm after. It extra gloss,shine and gleam . Awesome shine on it. Help me out ok.
Newby DIY guy. What about the clear coat on my cars as it relates to this work? Nobody mentions it. Is it assumed that the clear coat is gone before doing this work? Does the protectant serve the same purpose?
New guy, your clear coat is what you're working on when you are polishing. All of these affect your clear coat and a different way. When leaves are a branch or a twig come across your paint or even sand, there are different size scratches. If you can run your nail across it and don't feel it, you will end up polishing it in many of these ways. If your nail will go inside the scratch, you're going to have to do a fill in. Basically when polishing, you're going to create scratches all over your car again! But this time on purpose lol. These different size scratches can affect your clear coat and different ways. Heavier scratches will take out bigger problems and scratches, but pads that do lighter work and polishes that do lighter work will remove those scratches. It's much like sanding, a heavier grit knocks it out quick, but you have to go to a finer grit each time to polish it out and make it smooth. You have to be very careful and very knowledgeable and practice on something you really don't care about, because you are destined to mess up all along the way. Biggest thing you'll notice will be if you let a spot get too hot and you burn through the clear coat. This literally means your clear coat will get thinner because of the heat. That's why you see them always moving with polishers. Another secret to polishing is you want to keep as much clear coat as possible, so you don't want to destroy this clear coat over and over again with heavier stuff just to take out a few scratches. You're almost never going to get 100% scratch free, you'll be blessed if you ever get it to 80 or 90% and you need to be okay with that.
I have a 2002 Lexus pretty beat up paint. Tried the microfiber cutting pads and they didn’t make dent. The blue wool pads cut right through the defects.
It will depend on a lot of factors. The blue wool will probably give a little more cut than the Megs MF Cutting Disc, but remember, it's not always about what cuts better...it's the right pad for the job at hand.
@@Esotericdetail sorry excuse spell check there, thank you , yes yellow wool , so can use with compound or the yellow polish , probably safer if I just go with foam for now 👍🏻, thank you again and for your great content it really cover a lot in a small amount of time, clear info
let's take hard paint example, eg., audi silver metallic & your preference... kamikaze wool + banzai or menzerna 400 or rupes blue+blue? there's stubborn areas on audis we find needing isolated correction & more & less aggressive steps. thanks
ESOTERIC agreed was looking for a generalization relative to that specific oem paint. i've not tried kamikaze pads and was hopeful to read an insight from you v mf pad or blue wool honestly (it's not like i'm taking your feedback verbatim) #yourobservations 🙄
We use microfiber pads 99% of the time, but on occasion we find a paint that the traditional heavy cutting process just doesn't seem to work well. In that case, we'll grab for a wool pad to see if it works better for us. Some people however, prefer to use wool pads...
It's all about the polishing process...that will provide you with better looks, more clarity, and higher levels of gloss than any product that you can put on it. This is what you need: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G-1YIb3KuSo.html
I love wool pads. They last so much longer too if you clean them out after every pass. I use feynlab pure rinseless and a vegetable brush. Spin the water out and then a tornador. Like a brand new pad everytime!
Cleaning pads out after every pass simply adds way too much time to a job. If I have to clean out a pad more than once per panel (or half a hood), then I'm switching to a different pad / process.
@@Esotericdetail I only use Feynlab non-diminishing abrasive compound and polish. I prime the pad every pass. I get maximum correction in about 1-2 passes. Then I either grab a new pad and re-prime then move on to another section, or, I can clean that pad out and re-prime it. I switch out my pad every panel or half a hood. I assure you it’s much quicker process than you’d think due to the abrasives cutting the entire time and the surface area of a wool (or microfiber pad even more surface area) to deliver the abrasives and accept the paint residue. I really like the Jescar compound but it’s too oily for my liking as I only do coatings after correction. I want zero fillers or heavy carrier oils.
Teacher, why you insist that compressed air is the better choice to clean the wool pads? After doing a panel, the wool pad is wet from the cream... You can't remove the cream from the wet pad using compressed air. You have to replace it. And the old pad, you have to drop it in a bucket of water first, after you done you have to clean it with dish soap, then you have to dry it, and then you use the air to remove the dust from the fibers. True or false?
When I say air is the best way, I mean between sections, or during a section while it is still usable. When you're done with that pad (after it has gotten saturated), you need to wash it out. I am strictly comparing compressed air to either a brush or similar.
Rotary is faster = myth. While you might be able to get "quicker" cut during the compounding stage, you have to do a slow, methodical finish polishing process to avoid holograms.
