Dont fit weight ballast, fit an empty tank you can fill and empty easily depending on passengers. You could fit a water pump to fill it up to balance the boat and drain to empty it.
He should add north to south baffles so the weight doesn’t slosh around. Could also do wake boat ballast sacks with welded brackets to keep that in place
Usually In jet boats. We run the water from the pump to the exhaust manifold then to the engine and then out. It helps put a little heat in the engine.
Have you considered using stick on reflective heat barrier on the bottom of the rear seats to help keep them cooler as well? It works really well to keep header temp from transferring to the interior of our circle track cars.
I suggest doing some research on Marine cooling systems before you install the Y in the waterline. Typically everything in a marine cooling system runs in series and it comes in from the pump and goes directly into the exhaust first in order to preheat the water so the engine can reach operating temp. Since heat is partially what drives the turbo you don’t want the cylinder head too cold .Also, you should have a water pressure regulator. The jet boat builders looking pretty awesome. I love the wrap design that you guys chose. Keep up the good work.
He’s in Florida, the water temps are almost always 90F+ except in the winter, which I doubt they’d be boating much in the winter. Plus it will be going through the intercooler which will be very hot from the turbo.
Probably also some research on how turbos work too, turbos work on heat, adding a cooling water jacket before the turbo is robbing it of heat and hence power. If they REALLY wanted to cool the exhaust stream there they shoudl be using pre-turbo exhaust water injection - that converts heat into volume and would be one of few ways to actually make more power form exhaust cooling. Primary exhaust cooling should be after the turbo (which again, should assist its thermodynamic efficiency).
@FAKE_ ROACH 3 90° water temp isn't going to kill all the fish. I was a dive instructor in Thailand and we could get temp that high in the ocean some days.
Not true on performance jet boats. The problem is the more power you make the more water pressure you'll get from the jet. Some people install a gate valve at the jet. But most, myself included, Y off from the jet. One water hose for the engine and one water hose the exhaust (headers on my boat, 468ci BBC). If you dont run multiple water outlets and keep the engine cool, the more likely you are to damage gaskets or seals. Especially the head gasket.
Witt is so talented you have no idea how lucky you are to have him on the team all your builds happen a lot faster and get done way better he is the biggest asset you have .
The lower level of heat energy in the exhaust manifold will negatively impact the turbo’s performance, though I understand why it’s necessary. It’ll be interesting to see how the setup performs overall. Exciting stuff!
I commented this as well. Cooling the exhaust before the turbo is a bad idea. Will it still make boost? Of course. But it will make less and spool at a higher rpm with the cooled manifold. Also, the cylinder head is going to be running cold with the water going into the engine first. It will probably still scream, but it could be better.
The really crappy thing is it doesnt have to - turbos work on mass flow and pressure differential. Pre-turbo water injection is a thing. They could be cooling the exhaust charge by converting water to steam which reduces the heat but massively increases the mass and pressure. It looks like that water jacket is even designed to partly discharge into the exhaust after pre-heating the water. Also they should be suing the hot water post the engine so it evaps more readily.
@@mycosys I agree that if the water was entering the exhaust stream and evaporating it would be a positive due to the massive expansion of the water into steam. It would create a huge spike in exhaust volume and mass flow. But it appears the water is separate, and just sapping exhaust energy. It’s cooling the exhaust charge, which lowers exhaust pressure, lowering the pressure differential across the turbo.
This is exactly why this is one of my top five car content channels for the last four years running. I’m so glad that y’all hooked up with Cleetus and made the move South. You guys really upped your game with that one. Great content, I’ll be here every day for the next four as well!
A boat mechanics tip: you should think about putting a check valve in the exhaust to keep any water from running back into the turbo/exhaust manifold and possibly the engine. If the exhaust exit is above the turbo, once you shut the engine off the water is gonna want to flow backwards. If the exit is below the waterline, water pressure will push water back into the turbo, etc.
My favorite automotive channel these days. Perfect balance of content with really interesting builds. Others are flogging the same old dead horse which gets boring but not you guys. Keep just doing what you're doing fellas
@BoostedBoiz Kyle, I suggest adding a layer of heat insulation on the inside of the cover for the engine. Insulating the aluminum will make sure radiant heat does get the metal hot. Awesome build as awlways!
Awesome video. I think you should just add another fuel tank to the passenger side. You could build in a transfer pump to easily adjust your ballast. Plus you could fill the new tank with e85 if you wanted. Just switch to your other tune and tank and boom race ready in seconds, and your more balanced.
Move the battery, add another battery for extra power(tunes) or whatever. Don’t have it listed to one side, let her look level!!!! This is the best, cleanest build y’all got, keep it up!
Running cold water over the exhaust will take a ton of heat from the exhaust and may slow down your spooling. No idea how much but the heat is crucial in the density of gases goin through the turbo.. good luck! Cant wait to see the results
Easy tip for changing oil in an inboard engine. Put a lockable cutoff plug on the oil pan . Then make a tub long enough to screw to the cutoff that can pass throw the drain plug hole. When you need to change the oil hook up the tub, put drain pan at the back of the boat and unlock the valve and drain the oil out of your engine. The reason for the lockable plug valve is so no accidents ever happen to drain while riding in the boat. Yep old boat guy tricks. Hope it helps.
A bit concerned that cooling the exhaust gases prior to the turbo will affect the density of the gasses leading to reduced boost. FWIW I think you should go with a wrapped branch manifold, and maybe put the cooler post turbo. Although you could probably just wrap the rest of the exhaust to keep engine bay temps down. I don't think it matters how hot the exhaust gasses are once they exit the exhaust. I'm betting the manifold cooler will go...
The exhaust flap is a great idea. We use similar equipment on our commercial salmon boats up here in Alaska. When you have a 15' wave trying to push it's way up your tailpipe while towing a 900' net off of the beach, those make all the difference. I'm sure it's gonna help with whipping $hittys
@@thebadfarmer if there is enough room they could use the factory sump plug as the 'bung', then run a hose to somewhere convenient to hook up their oil pump/drill powered fluid pump.
It still baffles me how this channel only has 1.1M subs. I’ve been here since like 100k subs, and then too I also wondered how it was growing so slowly. Always super in depth explanations, actually show the majority of the work, etc. 99% it’s great content.
Make sure you have a saltwater anode on the body of the boat. Alum will form electrolysis. Also on our sailboat motor oil changes we use a cheap drill operated drill pump and suck oil from dipstick tube..makes life much easier.
I think the silicone coupler is a good idea for the exhaust. I have two on my motorcycle to connect the mufflers to the mid-pipe. It's a cheap simple solution that adds some flexibility. After 2 years there's zero damage. That silicone is fine up to 400-500 degrees. If in doubt use a temperature gun
The BOIZ hit that 1million and steady climbing. It also helps when fuel tech makes them for Brazil, whole new fan base.💯💪 At this rate 2 mill won't be far off.
I would recommend running a fizzle racing intercooler to prevent any issues. Those intercooler are the ones we use on high horsepower turbo skis and already come with water fittings.
You can hook a horse that has a plug on the end to the oil drain and have it so it reaches out the water drain for the boat then when you're done you shove it back in the boat. Keep up the amazing work
I’m use to outboards and not inboards so a vacuumed pump was familiar to me. I recommend a cheap electric oil transfer pump but your gravity recommendation is a winner under K.I.S.S. acronym
You should look into the exhaust wrapping that Taylor Ray did to his new corvette. Also a lot of great stuff lately, congratulations to you both on the success.
As others have suggested, brace the turbo off the manifold and apply some NASA approved (Moon, Mars) Dupont Polyimide Gold Kapton heat insulation film to the seat cover assembly.Wyatts truck with a custom color paint or 3M wrap ? would look real nice towing the Jet boat at SEMA 2023.A million plus eyes can really boost the bottom line for a company,business that might what to sponsor the bodywork,paint,wrap,etc for Wyatt/Kyle/BoostedBoiz SEMA display.
🙋If/when 90 coupler pops off, the boat will sink quickly. Maybe a braided flex on the straight with a welded 90 would make it safer. Loving all the projects btw🤘👍
Hi gyes killing it man. Glad to see that you put a good trap on the exsaust elbow. In most boats as long as the out side water or river or whatever is lower than the bottom of the elbow water shouldn't flow back into exsaust system. Thank's man keep it going.
you should weld a small pipe to the oil pan that runs through the back of the boat with a drain plug on the outside of the boat to make it easier to do oil changes....
Next time the motors out, maybe you can replace drain plug with a fitting & hose that you can attach to a pump to do oil changes. On some boats we would run the oil drain out of the drain plug & attach it with a little cable to pull out.
First: The job of the water jacketed manifold is not to cool exhaust gasses, it’s to cool the manifold itself. Will the gasses be cooler? Yes, but not as much as you guys are thinking. Second: Pre-turbo water injection is not an option. That will destroy the O2 sensor. Third: This thing will generate heat so coolant FLOW is important. Coolant PRESSURE can be detrimental. In the big block/jet world we keep them under 12psi. Fourth: What helps spool a turbo? LOAD. To equate a jet boat application to a car, imagine loading down the OG Civic, hook it to a loaded trailer, then drive it up the Ike Gauntlet with your foot to the floor the whole time. There will be PLENTY of heat in that exhaust to spool that turbo.
I'm really surprised that a big turbo company like Honeywell/Garrett or Precision hasn't paid you guys a boatload of money yet to be your exclusive turbo sponsor. You turbo everything and your name is Boosted Bois, the channel has over a million subs and the turbos already get a decent amount of screen time, so it seem like a no-brainer!
Having worked on marine applications you seriously need to brace that turbo. Just hanging off the inlet and exhaust will not hold it. Vibration and harmonics will fracture welds. Either ally brace from Hull or hanger from engine required.
You guys have come so far with many changes but one thing you never changed was being yourself. Thanks for uploading great content for so long. Boost loading
You could have a an e85 tank on the turbo side to help with the weight distribution, get another dual injector intake manifold and bam E85 on demand for the race and pump gas for cruising
I just want to say that I love the channel and I love seeing both of you be excited about the same project! You can tell Wyatt is ready for it to perform well and we'll we know Kyle is Kyle lol where the 2 step lol love from TN and can't wait to see that truck start up!!! I appreciate yalls grind!
Weld a service bung onto the side of the oil pan next time you have it off, 90 degree it up somewhere accessible then thread a plug onto the top. Use it to suck oil out of the crankcase in the future. Use a 12v scavenge pump to suck out the crankcase, super easy and pretty cheap. You could even leave it plumbed in full-time and just turn it on when you need to do an oil change, if not use some stiff plastic tube (pex water pipe works great btw it won't collapse even under really strong vacuum and I've never had it degrade from oil on it) to run down the service pipe.
I recommend plumbing the water dump out the side or somewhere separate from the exhaust, it will act as a tell tale so you know it's getting water. You can even run a simple t off to a small plastic hose. Just an idea.
Kyle and Wyatt you mentioned a E85 tune out a smaller tank on passenger side with E85 so you can have it plummed with off n on valve to switch it easy.. or if there's enough room 2 sets of injectors so when it's wide open it will change over to E85 kinda like how mullet went from pump to ethanol or what ever race gas he had with just flooring it or past certain rpm can't remember exactly how he had his car just couple ideas
Hey Kyle look into lizard skin it’s a sprayable heat coating and sound deadener. It works amazing. If you spray the bottom of that engine cover you will feel no heat transfer to the seats
I was going to post the same thing 😆 glad I read through the comments first. To me it was a common sense thing. And for ballast a secondary fuel tank. No fuel pump needed just a pump to transfer to the main tank. I fish for a living and we have 5 tanks I have to transfer fuel when we fill the fish holds.
Prop change time! Steeper pitch. Most marine manifolds, add water into the exhaust stream. Water route: Intercooler, turbo and manifold. You need dual pisser lines, out the back or side of the boat, to tell you you have water flow to the engine and the exhaust/turbo.
I worked at a marina a few years back, we took a pail and mounted a small 12v pump to the lid and clamps for the battery. Pump oil from engine into the pail.. Drilled some extra holes in the lid for draining the filter and we had all we needed to change oil. Took minutes and we were done
Exhaust gas temperature affects gas velocity which will impact the performance of the turbo. If the exhaust header is too efficient at cooling it could rob you of boost due to the reduced efficient of the turbo with the cooler gases. If it was me I'd probably Cerakote a normal stainless header to keep the heat in it but away from the seat above. You could also put a reflective heat shield on the base of the seat.
I use to do manual vacuumed pump oil changes through my dipstick on my outboards but a $10 Amazon oil transfer pump was a game changer. Same process but no pumping. Just clamp off to the positive on the starter and ground out on the block, then sit back and let it do it’s thing
Really cool turbos. I checked them out after watching JPs channel a while back. It will be a while before you hit the mileage where they say they should be rebuilt. Keeps it simple. Recommend a turbo wrap. The back passenger will like it. Fusion radio and wet sound speakers next? Actually do a Kove Audio plug and get the big waterproof guy.
Go to harbor freight and buy yourselves a Holt evacuator/dispenser they are AWESOME! You can suck fluids out and put fluids in places that are hard to access. I'm an automotive mechanic and it's one of the best purchases I've ever made. You'll get way more use out of it than you'd even imagine! Change transmission fluid right out of the dipstick tube without even raising the car up and you have measurements on the unit to dispense the correct amount back in. Change power steering fluid fast, suck ugly brake fluid out of a master cyl in seconds! Awesome tool
At time stamp 11:29 looks like a crack or a missed spot from welding. Could just be the angle of the way down pipe is or lighting as well. Awesome build tho! You both are killing it!
Great video and loving the new kit, only problem was when talking about the exhaust stuff i forgot how many boats dump exhaust gases into the water and got kinda sad considering the tech available today for clean emissions....pleasure and death are the same right haha
As always. Great video. I didn't know oil-less turbo existed. For my personal knowledge, can those turbos be installed vertically instead of horizontal?
That exhaust manifold is sweet. Had me fucked up for a sec on the intro tho, looked like you bolted a turbo to an intake manifold haha. She gonna fly now Boiz.
IF i can make a suggestion. I would clock the turbo so your output of the turbo points straight down, then put the water to air intercooler underneath the wiring horizontally easier to mount, and you can make it flat and have straight tubes.
