Overcoming overheating problems in a Ford 351c 

Loved your video.My first rebuild was 1980,a 351c2v in a 73 gran torino.All the gaskets or most came from sears lol if you can remember them days.One thing I learned about a basic stock build anyrate was to always match the head gaskets to the block and head.Reason was for cooling,couldnt afford all the goodies like they have today so by carefully trial an error you would widen by drilling out the gasket holes or just some and it worked great.Lived in texas them days and was great during the hot summertime

Also the cevo heads have smaller water holes for the coolant to flow and also the oil holes or guides as well, so increasing those sizes will help while you have the head off, but making sure that the same size holes in the head gasket is not overdone, meaning that the head gasket water and oil holes are the same as the head, cheers :)

Finally a factual video dealing with the Cleveland instead of the usual online misinformation. Well done ! The correct OEM style Cleveland specific thermostats and the long obsolete brass coolant restrictors for Cleveland blocks like shown in this video are now available from Timothy Meyer. Tim specializes in Clevelands from Stock to single digit quarter mile builds featuring his Track Boss Cleveland blocks in iron or aluminum alloy. Not Windsor blocks but modern priority main bearing oiling blocks featuring full Cleveland Architecture. tmeyerinc.com

Iv had no such issues with my Cleveland stroker...I run a regular over the counter thermostat, aluminum rad, clutch fan with stock fan shroud...but I always either run an intake manifold with the thermacular exhaust ports eliminated or cover them with a small sheet metal shim. Those ports are only there to help cold weather starting and driving to help atomize the fuel. Not needed for a hot rod or muscle car toy that will never see the dead of winter.

Another great solution is to use your cleveland in a boat with a heat exchanger, runs 160-170 all the time lol! Great video man, handy info.

The problems come usually when people try to run electric fans. Long story short, the 500 HP Mercedes come with a 800W fan. These aftermarket fans usually have around 80w-120w. Not near enough cfm. 3k cfm is not enough. I solved my problem putting a blocking plate in the bypass hole soldering a brass cap in the hole and drilling a 1/8 hole in it to alow some seepage. I started smaller and worked it up till I got no heat spikes. . Now I can run any thermo I want. Also put the mech fan back on with a high flow, large fin fan. As well as a 4 row aluminum radiator. A stock build won't need that radiator. I plan on getting a Mercedes 800w fan one day. But there $350 on ebay.

WOW!! That might be my problem. I have the right thermostat with wide brass hat. But it's possible it's not sealing all the way. No way to really know if it's meeting that restriction plate the way it should. I had no idea you can get a blocked off restriction plate!! It would seem fine but when I come to a stop it starts to creep up in temp. Always seemed like a water flow issue at idle speed. But even with a 115 liter per hour auxiliary water pump it still has the same issue. It would make sense now if the water isn't flowing through the right channels. Maybe it's not the flow volume but the flow direction. I'm going to try that blocked off restriction plate! Hope it solves my problem.

Fords run hot. Truck Type radiator 👍 and many are unaware of the restrictor issue. If ya got the $$$ cerakote the combustion surfaces n exhaust system. Meby gasoline fume system??? Working on that.

I found that thermostat at the first place I went. Oreilly's just 1 mile from my house. I had to take them out of the package to verify, but the third one they handed me was the correct one. (different part numbers).

Bigger radiator, thermo fans to suit and higher temp thermostat and 50/50 coolant to suit iron blocks, thats basically it, also making sure the temp sensor switch is set up on the thermo fans ?

Really good video with great concise content. Thanks!

He is correct. All you commenters that disagree are just wrong. Massive radiators and outrageous fans are not needed. 50 yrs experience says you are wrong.

Hi Great Scott hehe awesome video, may i ask how long does you fan stay on when shes at 195 before it pools it down. And what temp is your thermo stat at ? Thankyou

Thanks for the information! How long do you drive it for? When I go about 35-40min she starts overheating. Do you have the radiator part number, and/or the dimensions by any chance?

Use a fan from a 390 truck. Blows alot of air.

I opened up the steam ports in the head gaskets on my 4v and it stopped over heating.

What thermostat did you use with that plate I have the same Restrictor Plate but used the regular thermostat not the high flow one.

Why is your PC valve removed?

So Is the restrictor plate with the small pinhole in?

I'm curious how you came up with the claim that 195 degrees is the "perfect" temp? Do you have dyno pull information to back up your claim. I have a 1970 Mach 1 that I bought brand new and still own today and I run a 160 stat and always have in this 351C and it never ran over about 190 to 195 in the heat of a California summer and this was a long long time before aluminum radiators and add on electric fan assemblies and this was a low 12 second car with low gears and high compression so how did you arrive at 195 being perfect??

Hey just wondering how do you have your shaker sitting on the air cleaner?