Thank you so much for this clarification and explanation. It seems to be a mystery to so many beekeepers. It would be nice if you offer clarification about the legality of using Non-BeeTreatment Labeled OA. On your bottle, it's clearly marked for Varroa Treatment and is 97% OA with 3% inert material. It is indeed a great move to do a single treatment in winter when the brood is not present, or extremely low. To answer one of the other questions, the hive gets closed off for 10 minutes. Honey supers must be off for 2 weeks after an OA treatment. It's my favorite method for varroa control when mite counts are high enough to require intervention.
Update: OAV is now approved for use with supers on by the EPA! I read the studies and they showed the rise is OA was not statistically relevant compared to hives that didn't use OA treatment - as OA is already found naturally in honey.
All of your videos are excellent. Please continue to make and post them. I always thought that OAV is ineffective when the bees are clustered because the vapor needs to fully surround the bees to kill the mites. Can you comment please. And please make a video on how to prevent swarming without making a split. Thanks!
One gram per super appears to be half of some recommendations from Unies in Georgia and Washington state. Most people should note that a single treatment with capped brood present does not work. Then it's 5 to 6 treatments 3 to 5 days apart on the outer limit for 21-26 some plus days. Others might find Bob Binnie's series on the latest OA research helpful. Please Dyce keep your videos coming.. Appreciated.
Thank you for a very informative video. I used this method very successfully last season, with high mite drops recorded from my hives. I was however concerned at the risk of igniting low hanging comb and at number of "barbecued bees on the sublimator. Have you any experience, views or advice in the application of oxalic acid via a "fogger? " I'm Uk a hobby bee keeper. Best Stuart
Traditionally I heard and read to treat once spring and one on fall, which I also heard on multiple videos completely is erroneous as mite multiplies exponentially in between. In terms of usage/dosage what is best? As there as as many opinions as well. Some use it once, others use it 3 times every 5-7 days, other every 3 weeks from spring to fall, etc. What is the treatment regiment you recommend and follow?
Is there a disadvantage in using a series (more than one and spaced out) of OA treatments going into Spring? I'm not particularly keen on using formic acid due to the annoyance to the bees and the cost of it.
hello, i'm wondering if oxalic acid have any impact on queen smell, i'm affraid to use it because i thought that it will change the smell "pheromone" of the queen witch lead to her death, so my question is : is this treatment safe for the queen ?
Thank you for the advice. Good to see you are making videos again. How many treatments if the mite count stays up (I'm in NE Georgia and we will not have really cold weather until the end of December) and how far apart would you space them?
How does the Oxalic Acid effect the honey and comb in the brood boxes? I still have some partial supers on my hives should they be removed before treatment? Great VIDEO!
As long as those frames are emptied prior to the nectar flow it is ok to use them for honey. I.e if you over winter with a super on that probably has honey and sugar syrup, you can leave them on for the OA treatment. In the spring,if they didn’t eat it all,spin it and then give the box back. Then none of the honey in the box was exposed to the OA. (Info from the makers of Api-Bioxal)
Would it not be better to vaporize the acid in the hive at early evening, when all the bees are in the hive? Seems like doing it during the day, as seen in your video, would leave many foraging bees untreated...
Hi Daniel, here are the options I recommend for different times of year. Keep in mind, the number of treatments your colonies need, and the times you should apply them, should be based on your colony monitoring results. SPRING: Apivar in early spring (around March) SUMMER, when supers are present: Mite Away Quick Strips or Formic Pro LATE SUMMER/EARLY AUTUMN, after supers are removed: either Apivar, Apiguard, or ApiLifeVar. LATE FALL/EARLY WINTER: Oxalic acid Hope this helps.
I wouldn't put that thing right under the cluster because you will cook a bunch of bees. It best to look in the hive entrance to see where the cluster is then place it a frame or so to the side. You dont need to cook the bees for it to work. The vapors will float around in the hive and be just as affective. That wand plate reaches hundreds of degrees and is known to pit hot OA crystals. Good luck with your bees and dont kill the queen with this thing.
Aluminum is work-hardened and I think it would be important to use warm water for dipping. You're right, a hot piece of aluminum dunked in cold water can cause the aluminum to develop craze cracking. Great question. :)
thanks yep prepping for this,the acid burns if you get it in a cut,be sure to wear P E.your lungs wont like the stuff,as it sublimates i would wash,or Shower when done as the vapor may settle on you,your hair,arms,and clothing if you inadvertently expose yourself ,strong colonies are happier...also be sure to do the recommended follow up treatments,as well
I am jealously watching your video because over here in Germany the vaporization of Oxalic Acid is not allowed to beekeepers to treat varroa disease. I really hope this will change soon. Some German beekeepers intend to vaporize the Oxalic acid crystals by using an aroma therapy lamp equipped with a tea light candle. This requires adding another nuke during the treatment but is more safe for the beekeeper (no contact with acid vapor) and easier on the ladies as well. The entrance remains open during the treatment to ensure that the bees do not die due to a lack of oxygen.
