Nice job showing both dry and wet. Looks like it does what it’s supposed to do. And I agree P&S products are decent and affordable. Looking forward to seeing the next video 👍✌️☮️
P&S in general seems to be no nonsense type of brand. You get exactly what you pay for and their products seem to do exactly what they state. They remind me of the Meguairs Detailer line. Cost effective and they just work. I'm just surprised I haven't gotten around to trying any of their products yet. Great overview with this one.
I wouldn't worry about wet or dry. Any iron remover is going to work better when dry (for obvious reasons) but I wouldn't sweat it either way. I use iron removers wet and always will.
Bro... 1:1 Acetone: Tranny Fluid (Dex3 w/Mercon) is the cheapest AND BEST cleaner I have used. It even beat out some brake cleaner, carb cleaner, and PB Blaster.
@@FABAutomotiveDetailing Probably not. What you're showing definitely looks like it handles that job, and pretty well, at that. But should you need to clean up the suspension, rotors, etc., I highly recommend the DexIII Mercon and Acetone.
I use this stuff and works great. Depending on how dirty the car is I will spray the iron decon on 1st then foam it up and watch the foam turn purple. If the vehicle is dirty then yea it gets hit with Eco-wash to pull the dirt out some, rinse, then iron and foam.
Hi Brian, Thanks for posting a review. I will give the product a try. During your personal testing have you tried re-applying the product to the wet test panel after drying it to see if any more contaminants were still present?
Nice demonstrations, but all chemicals will be diluted to some degree when spraying on a wet panel!! It makes sense then that it (and other iron removers) will work better on a dry panel! The problem is do you want to risk it drying in those 2 - 5 minutes when working on a dry panel? As I have loved every P&S product I have used so far, its something I would buy. Lloyd
Thank you and I completely agree with you. I think using it on a wet panel is safer for most people and it is still rather effective. P&S makes some great products.
Could you use it first before washing the car. Rinse it off then wash the car. This way the vehicle is dry when you start. Then washing afterwards should remove any residue left behind. You do that on the wheels.. Just thinking out loud.
Awesome video brother.. I too use on wet paint lol. I know it dilutes it but I'm with you on drying then getting wet again just to dry again hahaha. Them wheels were full of iron!!!
😃😃 I normally wash the whole car, then use the iron remover on paint, wash it really quick again and it does good for me. I think that doing it dry but having the vehicle dirty doesn't work as good as washing it first and applying it with the vehicle half dry.
I just picked up an 07 Chevrolet Express 3500 work van.. it's never been detailed... but its always been storage instead.. the paint looks decent although there are thousands of those nasty orange specks.. I probably better get a gallon..or to😬😁
Those are machined rims. My questions is how do i restore it to how it came out the factory. Our grand caravan 07 has the 16 inch premium rims that they offered. Ours is pitted and corroded from brake dust. I will get p and s or iron x, but how do i restore it?
Brian, would this be safe to use if you have a lot of plastic trim like my wife's RAV4 has? I usually use Griot's Garage Iron & Fallout Remover because it specifically states that it's safe for that, but it's a tad bit expensive. Thanks!
Bud don’t overthink the instructions of washing & drying before. Ronnie said himself he doesn’t do that in fact he says he used it without pre rinsing because the dirt helps hold it in place longer vs running off. Not sure why they haven’t changed up their instructions
@@FABAutomotiveDetailing Brilliant news for the US! No frilly, shiny holographic packaging, just great stuff across the entire range. BH rust treatments rock too. Here in the UK the prices are such good value, and offer bang for buck that's off the scale. Forget Chemical Guys, forget Megs.....BH for the win!
@@FABAutomotiveDetailing Thank you for answering my question i really appreciate it. I was asking because i was reading the reviews for the Adams iron decon on amazon and users where saying it stains plastic and chorme.
If a car isn't covered in mud or very dirty, why couldn't you just start the entire wash process by spraying the iron remover first, wait a couple of minutes for it to work, rinse off (as a pre-rinse) and then apply the foam from a cannon to start the wash process? Since the product only reacts to embedded metal that isn't removed by the wash process anyway, why would it matter to have the car clean first, since the chemical only reacts to the iron, not the dirt? Seems like that would save a ton of time with the same iron-removal effect.
For me, this just isn't cost effective. It's funny I saw this video today cuz I was on P&S website checking prices on this product. $80/gal?? $337/5gals?? Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too expensive. I don't care how good it works. I can get products half the price, just as good
