I accidentally say P0355, but I mean to say P0335 for the Crankshaft Position Sensor Code. I will do updates of this procedure with other vehicles later.
The most clear step by step diagnostics for them sensors. Love it & keep up the good spirit of educating the public. I am a 14 years certified mech & I approve this. Thank u
Nice! very clearly explained. Im saying this is probably the best video involving cam/crank test procedure i've seen. I really appreciate it. the scan code reassured the component failure rather then wire failure by scan code and a test light exercise. Cool! I have 3 wire connection to check. Ground, signal wire, and power. Signal wire to be white. I had my 1990 olds 88 royale bur. scanned. I forgot it. My olds ran 15 months later. sat all winter started it, drove it in town, had it on the interstate, come home parked it. next morning no spark no fuel. cranks only. I'll be going out in the morning with my light
We love the way you make it so easy to understand, you are straight forward and methodical and you repeat your methodology to ensure people understand. This is a good thing so that ALL types of intellect will understand your procedures. Excellent. Keep up the good work.
I'm not speak inglish very well, but I'm go to try, ha ha ha! In my case, the crank's position sensor signal wire is open in the plug, so, it causes a intermitent signal to de PCM, starts to run bad, then goes to shut down the motor. In my opinion, first, check the wires and plugs before change any sensor to avoid trash your money. Thank you Roman, your video helps and saves me!!!
THANK YOU. All I can find is videos on how to replace an already bad sensor, not the diag checks to see what went wrong and how. Now all I need is a multitester and light probe..
Our 2008 335i E92 / N54 Coupe has been throwing the P0335 and P1727 codes for weeks and it keeps starting (rough) and starting (slow). Thank you for making this video. This weekend, I will first replace the CrankShaft Position Sensor and then, if necessary, replace both CamShaft Position Sensors and remove and clean both VANOS Solenoids. Wish me luck… Thanks.
I have never enjoyed watching a fuel relay switch this much in my whole life! Estra points for click anticipation 😜! Because I learned something I will use tomorrow, thank you. Very much.
This is an excellent video. Lots of clear explanation and repetition for us novices along with clear visuals. ,keep it up! Just try to get the other hand free.
So glad I came across this video. It's the first I've found with the two wire sensors. Even better is I have the exact same engine. Now I know an easy way to check. I've already replaced both sensors so I'm assuming it's the wire. Now I know how to check. Good stuff!!
If I read you correctly, you are checking the ground connection to the computer; but you have the harness disconnected to the harness that provides ground for the sensor. Anyway you can't predict symptoms in a generic way. A single programmer did not write the code for all cars, results are different. This past week, I replaced the sensor on my 2001 Chrysler Sebring, I got the camshaft sensor code and the engine light came on and stayed on, for a good while, but it would go off without the troubles that you mentioned. The car would start, it did not stop, the only problem I could really see was that the transmission had a hard shift from one to two, and jerk, on occasion, but then would work fine. The engine light would go off after a couple of trips. But the transmission problem when it happened would always include the Check Engine light. So I changed the sensor and the transmission symptom went away and hasn't returned (knock on wood). I looked at the wiring diagram for my car and the sensor does connect to the transmission control module, why and what it does, exactly, I don't know, nor care.
Ok Roman. I'm sorry for this. Here's the deal. I have to shoot down most of your information as it needs clarification badly.. pay attention, this is how it works IN THIS ORDER. Key one, ECM on, fuel pump ON to prime lines, pump shuts back OFF because no reference volts. When starting the engine, 12 volts from battery goes to the key, to the safety neutral switch, to the starter motor. *The engine physically turns, crank sensor GENERATES a DC voltage "reference volts," the reference volts goes to the ECM for bottom end timing correlation. Reference volts also goes to the cam sensor where it's turned from DC into AC. The AC signal is a square wave and fed back to the ECM for top end correlation. BOTH signals HAVE to be present for the engine to start and run. GOT THAT? OK not taking a personal shot at you or anything but let me ask you this question. "If I snip ANY wire going to a cam sensor while the engine is running. What happens? If you've paid attention, you should know by now. There's only one answer. The engine dies. Now let's recap. If the crank sensor goes out. then there will be NO reference volts going to the cam sensor. The engine will crank but not start. If the crank sensor goes out while driving. The engine will run untill turned off. Your info is backwards buddy. If the cam sensor goes bad. The engine MAY act like its trying to start. puttering and such almost like low fuel pressure. If the cam sensor goes bad while driving. The engine WILL DIE right then and there in. the middle of the road, so to speak. "Fuel controllers" right guy... Inside the ECM are MOSFET transistors the swap open and closed when cam signal is present. Those are you "fuel injector controllers" they are part of the ECM and rely on correlation between both the DC signal and AC signal. fuel pump turns on to prime fuel rain then turns back off. The ECM will turn the fuel pump back on when it sees the cam signal. OK that was cute. That test that you "invented." So the positive side of the battery produces a "surface charge" on you test light because it's cheap. That surface charge can activate the ECM and cause the fuel pump relay to "click." Because the ECM only need voltage. Not Amps for a signal to turn on the fuel pump relay. But why is it taking you so long with that poking test to get that rely to click then? "It may take some time guys but do like I'm doing and you'll be ok" or whatever you said. Here's why that worked for you. Ok on the crankshaft is a "reluctor ring." It's has "square" teeth ;) if you touch that test light in a rhythm.. I.e. you mimic the way that the reluctor ring would interact with the crank/cam sensor. The ECM will see that pattern. You understand? You were doing that unrhythmic calligraphy stabbing/ probing/ scraping/ motion. And YOU did manage to send a signal to the ECM by doing that but you should think like a well timed switch when you do it. On, Off, On, Off. remember, reluctor wheels have square teeth. Not round or random finicky teeth. like I said before. I'm not trying to take a shot at you personally. But you are causing quite a bit of confusion.
It's the same as I said before. You will have to ultimately tear that engine apart. The sensor isn't bad, more then likely, it is the reluctor on the camshaft. (That gear with teeth that the sensor reads) is lose or missing/damaged
Joshua Dutchman need help you sound so knowledgeable 02 Kia Sportage where can I find crankshaft sensor ? This car is showing mid firing on all cyclinders change wiring new plugs new sensors few other parts now I turned it off wouldn’t start back just out of blue . Set for 15 minutes messed with fuel pump. Started. So put new fuel pump on . About 2 wks goes.by now it just starts missing really bad want go no but was running better . Not now someone said could be crank sensor but can’t find it . And is there a way to tell before buying new one. . Any info would be helpful need a ride on the rd .. Thank you
o and thank you for the good info saves time, money, headaches, bloody knucks, bad back, sore arms, a good ol healthy chunk of gunk in both my eyes thats fallen from motor... ect... lol really man thankyou good work
When you were tapping on the signal wire, shouldn't you have connected the light to the negative terminal? If the 12V is coming from the computer, isn't the computer looking for a ground from the cam position sensor?
The plug on my crankshaft position sensor came off & I got the 0340 code on my '09 Cobalt! I changed the Camshaft Position Sensor anyway and plugged the Crank Sensor back in. It never ran bad or quit running when the engine light was on.
thanks! i recently put in a NEW (but bad) CKP sensor and its apparently shorted internally- screwing up my fuel level gauge, ignition coil/ignitor(?) and setting off a host of other selonoids- et al! I cleaned all grounds, rebuilt my fuse box, new ECU, cleaned everything........no changes UNTIL i just now decided to swap back in the old CKP sensor. All the electrical clicking, etc went away immediately and Im not going thru the KEY RELEARN process for the new ECU
Hey bro i have “P0355 crankshaft position sensor A circuit malfunction” but my truck still runs and drives, but performance on the truck is low any idea whats going on and how to fix?
I have a similar problem but with a twist. It's a 2004 Kia Rio Cinco 1.6l 4cyl.with 170K on it and got 26mpg in town up til the start of last week 4/13. I haven't had the engine warning light come on but I did a scan after a few days of the car chugging during acceleration, erratic idle, a "hot" smell out of the exhaust and a 30% drop in gas mileage. What comes up is: Cam position Sensor, Mass Air sensor and Knock sensor. This car throws knock sensor codes like a frat house throws parties even with 4 brand new KIA sensors; so that's not the issue. If the cam sensor is bad, wouldn't that cause issues with air flow, poor idle and spark? That seems the cheapest way to start since they are only $80. The mass air (KIA Re-man is $180) and I replaced that 1 year ago along with the Cat and 2 knock sensors and O2 sensor. Your help would be much appreciated since the business I worked at just went out of business this past Friday 4/17.
Your vehicle can stall while driving, which are indicators of a faulty CPS. Your vehicle may continue to start if the CPS isn't completely bad, but eventually will fail completely to the point of crank, no start.
First time I received Code P0340 ( 2005 Honda Civic) 4 years ago after engine stalled or did not start at times. Professional I referred to was unsure if the sensor was responsible but finally replaced it and everything was OK for several months but happened again one day. By the time I already knew location of the sensor so I disconnected and connected this sensor several times and only yesterday this sensor reminded me about itself reporting fresh P0340. So I suspect the problem comes from oxidation of connector's contacts and could be fixed by contact cleaner or just by using my "quick fix" procedure. BTW in new cars as I noticed, this sensor is supplied with long cable connected outside to avoid hot environment in body of engine.
Also remember, If your timing chain, or timing belt breaks, you may have a code for camshaft position sensor, but replacing sensor would, obviously, not fix a broke timing chain, or timing belt.
+RomanAutomotive Hey Roman. I want to make sure I understand your info regarding the difference in failure with the Camshaft sensor, and the crankshaft sensor. My Ford Explorer has an intermittent problem when trying to start it. When it does start, everything seem to be fine, and I can drive for miles. But once I turn the key off, I do not know if it will start back or not. sometimes it does, as if they are nothing wrong. Other times i can crank it over, and over, and it will not start. After it sits for a few hours, it will again start right up. Didn't you say if it was the crank Pos sensor, it would quit while driving, and if it was the cam position sensor, it would keep running until key was turned off? Am I right in assuming the problem is the cam position sensor? and does that make sense that after the car sits a few hours (cools down) it starts up again? BTW before the "won't start" problem, it did on occasion have a rough miss when driving as if partly out of time..then as if something kicked in, it would in an instant start running perfect again. BTW my fault code is P0340, and that is the only code showing
My car died on the freeway and it turned out to be a P0340 (cam shaft pos sensor), I replaced it and it works fine for now but should I worry about the crank shaft sensor now?
Hi roman. Your videos are quite helpful thank you. My problem is my nissan maxima 2002 vq35 engine went dead on me when driving home from work and couldn't accelerate so I park while I could. TCS OFF and ABS and service engine soon light came on dashboard, Was confused for almost 10mins then decided to restart and it did start but 5mins into driving it and it was going really slow and sluggish. Had to stop at the light and it went off, someone offered to jumpstart which we did after so many trials it eventually started but was super sluggish at getting home. Please I would appreciate your help on this and I have though it might be the alternator or something because the battery is dead and car light is so low.
Very informative video, thank you Roman! I currently just finished diagnosing my vehicle for the camshaft position sensor. It has the P0340 camshaft position signal circuit malfunction. The weird thing about mine, is that it occurred when I was driving on the freeway, and my car lost complete power and stalled, but no dtc relating to the crankshaft position sensor. I know that the camshaft position sensor, would not cause the vehicle to stall because my automotive teacher physically showed me in class yesterday by disconnecting it and vehicle running fine. Do you think a bad crankshaft sensor, can still be bad, and cause a p0340, if they both use the same circuit? thanks in response! other than that, I will check the crank sensor circuit when I get the chance again.
good video its good u repeat yourself cause there are newbies on here, and their new to the electonics in cars. for the seasoned technician he can stay and watch if he or she wants. keep trucking good video, at least dont have spend 5000 dollars on a scope to figure this one out.
excelent explanation, my only concern is when you tapping the wire to the computer those tap are for (let say 12v), is it this load consistent with the regular signal that the sensor should get ?
Nope I believe that gets 5 volts I was kind of shaking every time he tapped it with it. My power probe comes with a 5 volt step down.. that's what I use. I seen he did it so I guess it worked I would have liked to see the finished product running and I wish you would have told us if it was running before he started.
I think that maybe some ECUs and sensors may get burned by just this testing? because you are injecting 12 Volts with the terst light in circuits that normally see 1 Volt ou just a bit more? (i know that some cars-Rover and the MEMS 3,for instance) work with 12 Volts,incoming and outgoing signal on their Camshaft position sensor (3 wires,Hall) only, but not on the Crankshaft position sensor; i would be scared of doing that,but it is possible that you are positive about it ?
Sometimes the vehicle will start if you press the gas while trying to start at the sa.e time. Once started carefully (gently) place left foot on brakes and right foot on gas pedals and it should drive as long as you keep the rpm up.
I have a crank no start problem but I have a p0335 code this car came in without a knock sensor and I am having one hell of a time trying to get it not even Nissan has it , I'm down in Guatemala can't even get a used one and Nissan offered to bring it in about a month maybe cuestion is.... does t knock sensor missing will stop de car from starting?
I get no light on both wires. No computer error code. Only thing i have is a long cranking time, about 3-4 seconds on first start, if I turn the engine off and than on again, i have no crank time at all. When I disconect the ecu conector i have checked that those two wires are not shorted. With multimeter I read the same voltage on both wires, positive lead on positive car battery terminal and other on the wires. Could this be ecu or bsi problem? I have citroen c3 1.4 gasoline
Can a crank shaft sensor go bad gradually. Because my car the code of the cam shaft sensor was on triggered but when i replaced the cam shaft it still produced the code. Now i am thinking that the crankshaft sensor is the problem because it is running poorly. Am i right?
Dakota 3.9 quit while driving..Cranks over great but no start. Fuel pump pressure is 45 on the meter. Code reader isn't detecting any codes except an existing one that is the 3 to 4 shift. Over drive don't work when warmed up. Seems to be spark when using test lite albeit appears dull. Any suggestions..
hey I have a question I have a 2008 Ford expedition xlt 4wd just replaced timing belt, VCT solenoid, both camshaft sensors and the plug connector on the left side but still getting a code for the camshaft circuit on the left side.
I have a 3-pin connector and while probing with the test light, all 3 ports caused the light to illuminate. I spliced the wires and soldered on a new connector. Car still does not start.
I got a pt cruiser that’s throwing both codes, however when I go to start it the starter spins but doesn’t engage, it’s a brand new starter, and the teeth on the fly wheel are not broken.. I don’t understand why it’s throwing both codes but the starter is spinning but not engaging!???
I have a 04 Chrysler Pacifica that was driving fine and died. It needed a fuel pump and then the garage said there was no spark that they replaced the Crank and cam sensor..and says it still will not stsrt..they are telling me it has to be a timing belt...what do you think! It turns over great just doesn't start.
my car is Honda stream and uses the same engine with 2001 Honda Civic. Engine D17A RN1. I bought new sensor and changed both Cam and crankshaft sensor however, runs for 45seconds and switches of either after accelerate or let run. kindly assist what could be the problem?
i have a 1995 chevy blazer and it has shifter solenoid issues and the 4wd doesnt work. When I had the issue start w the transmission, it didnt want to shift into 3rd and max out my RPM/..BUT it doesn't do it all the time....rite after that the 4wd stopped working as well. Its a dashboard control (WHICH I REALLY HATE) i would rather have one w locking hubs..but...any thoughts? why would my 4wd stop woring as well? please help me becaise am not sure what to do....the torque conveter bad? where is that located? thank you very much for any thoughts :) I have seen the diagrams of the shifter solenoids which looks to be an easy fix but am kind of lost on the 4wd
Hey RomanAutomotive would the procedure also work on 05 Ford 6.0L diesel for checking the harness wiring. I had it die while driving and truck would crank but could not get it to restart and run. Thanks in advance for your help.
I can't find my crankshaft sensor or my camshaft sensor on my 2010 Hyundai Tucson and i'm gonna change the coolant sensor there are no videos on my model got any ideas? my problem started with a misfire cylinder 3 and I changed 4 spark plugs and 4 ignition coils car crank but didn't start crankshaft sensor came up on the scanner and now the camshaft sensor came up and I just decided to change the coolant sensor . How do I find my sensors I looked for 2 hrs and can't find any diagrams of the engine bay #frustrated any ideas would be appreciated
Love the video Great trouble shooting Excellent reinforcement reminding us what procedure shows a ground and the trigger for the fuel pump relay In my 94 Ciera 3.1 liter I'm getting code 0341, I've replaced the spark plugs , plug wires, ignition coils ignition control module and the camshaft position sensor. I'm down now to replacing the two crankshaft position sensors, hoping that cures the problem with my Ciera hiccuping coughing and or stalling. Any other suggestions? Thanks again for posting.
I have a 2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT 5sp. I had some jerk pull out in front of me and had to slam on my brakes and stall my car. After restarting and going on my way, I got the check engine light, codes P0335 and P0340, but the car starts and runs fine. No difference. I cleared the codes and now every time I drive a few miles these 2 codes pop up again. Been driving that way for a long time and never had it quit or not start. What could it be? Timing belt and water pump changed a few months ago. Checked timing again and it’s ok. So what would cause the computer to throw P0335 and P0340 at the same time but it runs perfectly fine?
