I've been having an issue with my 2015 fiat 500. Initially i was getting P0336 and i went to the fiat dealership to get it replaced. After getting my car back it barely started. Went straight to autozone and was getting P0336 still along with another code stating that the sensor needed a relearn. Brought it back to the dealership for them to relearn the sensor. Went home and realized that the 3 page report they gave me only showed them updating the ECU to a new version, nothing was mentioned in the report of an actual relearn. Getting the same codes. Not sure what to do at this point.
Start with the extreme basics: What are your signal voltages showing? What’s your reference voltage? By the way a relearn has nothing to do with timing or anything. A relearn is to allow the sensor to calibrate for cylinder misfire identification. Not doing a relearn has no effect on performance- it will just affect accuracy of the misfire detection.
Excellent presentation, Matt. THANK YOU. Decades ago on my very first (part time) job as a teenager my boss used to tell me, “Son, what you don’t do with your brain you have to do with your back.” On automotive, what you don’t do with your brain you have to do with a wrench. Thanks again for showing the way on using the brain on auto diag and repair.
Thanks for sharing! That is great, great advice. Actually most mechanics I have known have had bad backs too. turning a wrench is often bad on your back so the less you do it and the more you can do on a computer or using a dry erase board, the longer the career you will have! I will have to use your old boss’s advice in my next video. I love that.
@@SchrodingersBox Quote originator's name is Stillman Terry, and I heard that quote from him more than once from 1975-1977 when I worked for him in the Village Butcher shop in Annandale, VA. He was a meat cutter by trade, and could cut up a steer and then put it back together and it would walk away ( ;-) ). He's a retired Green Beret. I got a lot of valuable lifelong wisdom thanks to him. :-)
Scotty is good for entertainment and basic information. Matt is a scientist/mechanic who's great for determining the truth. I can actually hear the wiring/short in my 08' Subaru, AFTER the "reputable" local shop replaced the ecu , which didn't solve the problem, and, after I got a "BlueDriver" obd2 scan tool which immediately caught a crankshaft position sensor code. "Tickling" my Subaru ( visual inspection and listening ) has me moving scientifically closer to the Truth.
Definitely helped me along the way of electrical problems! Definitely puts a lot of work into making time to give others a on point tutorial! A lot of respect! Thank you.
I just changed my CPS 2014 Hyundai accent GLS 1.6 liter before I replaced it it kept stalling. Now it’s jerky jerky runs like crap. Do I need to have it relearned to get it to run good
Im having this issue on my 07 yukon everything is good on cold start, after warm up i shut it off & it sounds like a dead battery when cranking takes long to start & when it does the rpm doesn't work rhe ac doesn't work the cooling fans work weak causing antifreeze to bubble up stabilitrac traction control light comes on throws a p0336 then throws a p0335. Could the wiring cause this as the one you worked on or what should i check? Thanks
@SchrodingersBox thanks for the quick response, im going to try to work on it tomorrow if i have time & will definitely get back to you. Thanks so much
All credit to Vicki here - it's amazing what a great stylist can do to ensure that we aren't subjected to repairs by Foghorn Leghorn in a baseball cap. I will admit that those tricky shots underneath the vehicle were pretty impressive too. Great tutorial. 🐓
These will drive you crazy because the cam and crank are supplied by the same 12v in the pcm. I remember an 05 doesn't show they are shared but what happens is an oil leak at the top of the engine breaks the wires down and shorts out the 12v on the connector to the cam. Many times it only shows a crank sensor code but will be a no start. If that 12v is pulled down to about 8v it will make it run like poo or set 300 code
Hi probably too late to get a response on this, but I’ve got this issue, noticed oil out of the camshaft / crankshaft connector into the DME, and still got intermittent running (stalls when hot) after replacing crank and both cam sensors. Do you have more detail on this issue? I can’t work out how the oil is getting into the wires?
Here I was getting excited to see the piercing probes come out to play and all we needed was the wiggle test. That saved precious moments and gives more Sunday afternoon beer drinking time. haha
yeah it’s funny you say that- I was going to use the pierce probes but the CKPS wiring goes right into another harness that is still behind the starter so you still can’t access even with probes without removing the starter. no way around it, starter has to come out.
@@SchrodingersBox good old fashion GM engineering.🤷♂️ I've known to poke those wires at or near the PCM to take a look see. The good point Matt is the truck is fixed and somebody owes you a few drinks. 😉
This channel is absolutely awesome I love how you break down the diagnostics.Ive been having a similar issue with my wife's 2008 Chevy suburban the car is hard to crank than the traction control deactivates no signal to the tack at all car will drive with a p 305 code but hard shifts into second gear pings and runs like crap. I reset the engine code and the car runs solid for a few days and all of a sudden just decides it wants to act up.I look at the live data on the scanner and it doesn't even have a hiccup while driving. The other issues is a slow crank like it's got a dragging starter or bad ground things giving me one hell of a headache but after watching this I know I need to look at these wires and see what the hecks going on.
I disconnected mine and replaced the O ring and reconnected and now I have issues, lots of oil in my connection so I’m thinking I have the same problem
You are the best i have a 97 gmc 4.3 v6 vortex having the same issue with the crank position sensor . you have explained and i gotta say im hands on although u did a wonderful presentation and covered everything that needed to be shown in how to diagnose the p codes thank you for doing wat u do .
Just discovered your page. Seems like another “ready, aim, fire” brother living in a “fire ready aim” world. Love your thought process, analysis and approach. I laugh because all the dirty fingernail types have already changed 10 parts and decided that the engine is “just shot due to age”. Don’t waste your time trying to convince the “fire ready aim” types to slow down……just know that us 2%ers get your channel completely. I need to go back and see what your source materials are around scan tools, online manuals and such……..
My son car have the same problem, I not mechanic but I have an electronics background. I have oscilloscopes and multimeters. Mechanic change the Crankshaft sensor 3 times, is imposible to fail 3 times. Do you know where I can find this connector or let me know the terminals part number? Any help will be appreciate Thanks in Advance.
I changed my cps and fuel pump on Chevrolet Express, and as soon as it warmed up it dies, no codes. After watching this video I went and took out my cps pigtail and saw the wires are exposed and coved in oil. Went to junk yard bought new pigtail for 3$, wired it up and it runs now.
You could also test each connector pin with the car shut off using an ohm meter, by back probing a pin with one lead and probing the other end with the other lead and then wiggling it. If it deviates even the smallest amount from zero, you have a bad connection. Doing it this way is also safer as long as you probe each pin to ground first to make sure there isn't any live power. Unlikely that there is, but better to be safe than sorry.
i am still in a cloud about how this works but new sensor,and still backfires w/p0336 no other codes almost thought i got after installed other parts like emision valves idle sensor LOL but dies when i put it in drive oh and idles nice ; you know what i got this.
Hey, just have the po336 code only, for my undesirable po335 never came on. Anyhow, i done my checks, my ground is good and reference is good, but when i do the ckp bypass, i don’t hear the fuel pump. What is your thoughts on this? (Learning as i go with wiring) (P.S it’s a gen v, different color wiring but its the same set up)
Ok, this is just a niggly bit not even about the car. One of the things you will see other RU-vid automotive repair channels do is when they are introducing a car to the audience they will typically show at least a portion of the vehicle. I know, it's just a sort of comfort thing but it helps. Do what you want, I will keep watching your stuff whether you like it or not.😁. You already know I like them all.
I did initially show the truck but I edited it out because it was so big it couldn’t be shown in a single frame of view so I figured there was no point.
Will this problem also trip reduced power mode? My Yukon 6.0L is experiencing P0336 intermittent and after warm up. Then a very noticeable clunking sound, runs extremely rough and goes into reduced power mode. I then turn it off, restart and I’m good to go for a day or so
I wish i could find someone like you in my neighborhood. Maybe ill take a shot at asking you this to see if you respond. I have an 09 Camry with a p0335 code, we arent mechanics so we just had someone replace the CSP sensor and the car is lighting up but no crank at all. My car has been sitting for 3 months and i would love any advice where to start or try next. Hope you read this!
The first step is getting your reference, signal and ground voltages. Without that there is nothing I can suggest. We have to see where the issue is. Who ever replaced your sensor should have done that before replacing it. Did they collect that data?
My 2000 chevy silverado 4.8l wouldn't start . So I started replacing parts starter,fuel pump, fuel filter, battery. I tried about 10 times then pulled shifter, released tried again with it cranking. Ran for 10 minutes. I shut it off and tried 5 minutes later and no start, pulled shifter and still nothing. I watched this video, but this truck runs and most of all the other 5 videos they run . Any Ideas. I'm thinking a short mayber in the steering column. But I don't know what the screws are used to removed. Betty is being a whore .
Got a 05 Nissan Altima POS. The harness is trash and it's a bitch getting behind there. Couldn't it be Hot wired? It has a yellow red and green wire. Would connecting the red to yellow work?
changed CSPS, still Same 335,336 with 07 6.7 Ram, then exhaust filter 80%, retired just putt about small town, drove on freeway(UGH) 50 miles Exhaust msg cleared. still 335,336. Thanks will try this now...
Hello sir I am big fan of your videos. They are know very well done. I have your monthly subscription too. Which software you are using to scan this truck? Thank you
I told you that The greatest thing come free, it takes a great human being to share this kind of info in detail. You reminded me of the time I was back at school! This will relief 😮💨 a lot of head aches! Thanks 🙏🏿! You are a great man!
Very good. What I am trying to figure out is how to identify a crank sensor problem in a Holley Terminator X. The car has an intermitent stall or bog at WOT only. Off the line of while cruising.
I have possibly an issue with crank or cam sensor. My 2006 Silverado stalls after idling for approx 10-13 min. Every time. I’ve driven it and runs fine but still cuts off as if someone turned the ignition. No bucking no loss of power or anything out of the ordinary. It’s as if it cuts off once it’s reached operating temp. I replaced crank sensor still same issue. Was thinking to replace cam sensor as well see if it fixes but not sure if I should start with doing a relearn on crank sensor?
A relearn is strictly for the misfire counting calibration. It had nothing to do with its normal function at all. Instead of doing a relearn, just check the signal voltage instead and see if it’s faulty.
My sister had a 03 Nissan Pathfinder with p0335 that had the exact symptoms he described before swapping the crankshaft position sensor. I could never get confirmation it was the sensor and it only threw the code one out of maybe every 10 times it refused to start so I suspected it was just a referenced code. The only thing I could find wrong for sure is the fuel pump was out of spec, only giving about half of it's rated fuel pressure. Not fully understanding the mechanisms but trusting in the data I had, I decided to replace the fuel pump. Completely resolved the issue. I suspect what was happening was the vehicle had no way of knowing it had died due to being starved of fuel, so it threw a crankshaft position sensor when it saw the crank was no longer spinning. What the PCM didn't know is that was legitimate, the crankshaft _really wasn't_ turning anymore due to a sudden loss of fuel. I further suspect the fuel injectors have a very specific pressure that they will no longer open at all (thinking like a "burst pressure"), causing the low fuel pressure issue to go from "running fine" to "not running at all". Moral of the story is if you see p0335 or other similar codes, don't just go replacing the crankshaft position sensor.
I have a 2010 Chevy Malibu and I just replaced the cam and crack sensor and I forgot to relearn it and now it’s no starting when I brought a scanner it said oil and oil filter
The relearn has nothing to do with timing. It is strictly for the misfire detection calibration. If you have a no start then something is aligned or not connected.
Hi I know the video is old but im buying a 07 escalade the owner mentioned that on the highway the car after 3-2 miles shuts off and he said that wait 5 minutes and then start it back he claims that the bcm needs to be replaced but i think it is the cam shaft sensor what do you think the issue is? I will really appreciate the answers😆
Like how you used a process . Thinking about the facts , diagnosing the root cause , planning an efficient course of action, and verifying the fix. Also like the way you allowed your lady to have a role ! You looked at the camera and simply resumed coaching us after she fixed your hair nice . 👍🏼
I had the same p0335 code on a 2007 G6 GT 3.9L .. I changed the knock sensor out with one from O’Reillys and the code still came back. I double checked the wiring with a multimeter from the connector up to the top of the harness and both the wires were good so I knew that it wasn’t the connector or the wiring, so I bought a AC Delco knock sensor, and put that in and everything is good, no more check engine light!
The background story, the case study and mapping procedure, this is keys to success. I appreciate this kind of thought, this kind of logical and technical approach to a scenario. Im currently dealing with a crank no start issue which had a camshaft sensor signal error on the scan tool and we've already detected shoddy wiring. We havent gone through the entire harness but at the connector itself was some damaged wiring and bad soldering and connections made. Replaced the sensor but still no start. So ill test the sensor wiring once the mechanic arrives tomorrow or before he gets here and we'll see how this gets us. Thanks,. Happy to have invested 31 minutes of my life in this informative video. Much appreciated from Cape Town, South Africa.
Where would you have started with code P0336 ? I let my suburban 5.3 sit for about a month or more starting it occasionally. I left the hood cracked the past two weeks because I just added a leveling kit. When I went to turn it back on it was dead and has probably been dead for at least two weeks. Could this cause the computer to lose memory to the crankshaft sensor? I plan on researching more and your video certainly is a great start to diagnosing my issue. I think the thing I am going to hate the most about this is having to take off the starter. That's a pretty crappy task. My suburban is an 08' z71 I wonder if they have changed the location of these sensors since. I doubt it though. Let me know how you would have done this alternatively with code P0336 instead of P0335.
on a P0336 I would probably just start with a Crank Sensor bypass and verify consistency of my own Input to determine electrical or mechanical right off the bat.
I have a question for you. There seems tto be alot of issues with BCM system,with water leaking into Hummers and it creating a mess of electrical issues. Not only that these GM cars and truck from the early 2000's have electric issues. I have ad H3 Hummer, that has haall kind of electrical issues because of water coming in from the leaky sunroof,and draining down the a pillar and getting to the BCM. Now the sunroof has been siliconed and so no water is coming in. Now the question,I replaced the BCM with a preprogrammed unit,and went through the 30 min passlock system relearn and the car wouldn't start. Did it several times and still nothing. Notice that the crank sensor code along wiht air pump code is on,so the car isnt gonna start with the key. But if I tried using just the remote start and did the 10 min reset for 30 minutes and the car starts up,but will not start with key. In the beginning there were 2 codes on the crank sensor and the air pump,both parts were replaced and the codes never shut off, I think the car is not starting from the key because the crank sensor code is still on,check the fuses and wires for breakage,every problem sight of a ground missing,nothing!
Im having exactly this problem on an LS swap. The harness looks okand there are no splices. Can that still get loose inside the plug? I woulve liked to see how to check the reluctor. Although, it does seem wiring relater. It ctu out on my at idel when i went around and lifted up anout 1" on the wire bundle. Any insite would be appreciated.
It’s way easier to just check the signal at the PCM which is normally how I do it. I only removed the starter to show the connector for the video and of course I had to go there anyway for the repair but I really recommend checking the voltage from the PCM terminal.
@SchrodingersBox i dont know how to do that. I imagine that requires unpinning? That would be far more involved that removing a starter in my opinion. Especially since they stuck the pcm way up under the dash and bolted it in.
I have a 2007 Chevy equinox and they made this vehicle from 05 to 09 I think. I’ve change the crank sensor and had problems cause wouldn’t start ruff idle and cut off. The point I’m getting at when you change the crank sensor replace it with the exact part manufacturer that came out from the vehicle not all manufacturer wire there crank sensor the same.
I recently replaced my distributor on my 5.7 vortec Silverado. Number one cylinder top dead center on compression stroke. Like it should be. Distributor is at the number one point position like it should be. It starts fine runs pretty good and not throwing any codes But my timing advance is reading Negative 24 at idle and gets more negative in higher rpms. Ive re installed the distributor numerous times and even tried a different ecm. And its always roughly the same negative advance. Can you tell me what it might be??
@@SchrodingersBox yeah i was kind of think that but I wanted to get a second opinion. I used a cap with a hole in it to check spark. And its going straight to the diode. So ita not the distributor i dont think And as i mentioned it starts and runs good Didn't make sense hownit could run so good and the timing advance be soo off So i was thinking maybe it needed a crank relearn lol. But i guess I'll find out when i get it on a cmp reader
@@SchrodingersBox i believe my base for misfire detection is anything over +15 or -15 It runs fine at its current-22.4 advance. But when i rotate the distributor it throws a misfire code at around -12 ish and wont hardly run I was just trying to figure out what exactly it was. I was told it could be a tooth out. I may need to buy a scan tool to correct the issue
I have a 2004 dakota 3.7 engine with the same problem, the engine was removed for oil pan replacement exhaust leaks on the heads,the engine ran fine before removed after the engine was installed back in it make about 10 revolution before it fire the po355 came on it run fine at a idle but it won't pass over 2200 hundred rpm replacement or cps was done and the problem still there.
Hey Matt, I have a diagnostic question. I'm working on a vehicle nearly identical to the one in this video. It is a cranking no start scenario with no pule signal to the injectors and no spark. I have a positive reference at the cps plug, and the fuel pump kicks on when I do the crank bypass shown in this video. What I don't have at the plug is a constant ground. Would you lean towards crankshaft position sensor with this information, or chase the lack of ground?
@@SchrodingersBox I was unable to find any broken wires, and it looks like that ground goes into the fuse box. Would this ground be ecu controlled? Could I short that wire to ground to close the loop without damaging anything electrically?
After some more wire wiggling, the ground reference fell out of the plug going to the crankshaft position sensor. I replaced the plug and the vehicle fired right up. Thank you so much for your help with this! In hindsight, I should have pierced the wire further up, but I hate exposing wires to the elements. Thanks again!
Ok I’m 13 minutes into vid my suburban 2001 has code P0336 it will start up when sits over night when it does it runs like shit and it’s hard to start but I found out when it heats up it won’t even start just turns over already replace fuel pump cut a hole took back seat out and cleaned throttle body and replaced mass air flow sensor and that code P0336 crank shaft position sensor is hard to replace tight area I have not replaced it yet and I really don’t know how
Hwy i have 3 kids and im in need of direction or help. 2008 clk350 80k miles. I replaced mine die to code p0336 i recieved. I bought the replacement from orielys and after replacing it, it turns but wont start just like before i checked it with my obd. Does it need to be calibrated or something with the ecu or something ? Please help me.
intructions unclear? plugged car in.. appears car has hacked computer, internet, news sites and is writing incendiary articles about war race politics et cetera what should i do? its definitely not and electrical pr9blem maybe just replace the ecu?
I have an 04 buick rendezvous fuel pump has no power. The relay has power at 87 pin but no power on 30 is that correct. No codes on obd2fuse good fuel pump replace my mistake problem wasn't fuel pump any help much appreciated
Buick rendezvous running now never trust a but connector fuel pump connector was broken loose on ground had to take fuel tank down. Used the new style solder connector awesome
Thanx 4 the video! My 100th anniversary harley truck has this same problem! Replaced sensor twice now! What a pain! I am convinced it’s in the wiring! Can unplug & replug it in & it’ll start! Sometimes! Intermittent problem! I’m thinking the factory original was not faulty afterall!
My car drives fine and all of a sudden I get p0335 , p0340, p0365 , all positioning sensors fail at the same time intake , exhaust and crankshaft. When that happens car won't crank, I then delete the codes and drives fine for a couple of weeks then again same things happens all 3 codes come back already replaced all 3 sensors.
I have this and did the same thing this guy did. (Replace ckp sensor) No shop will help me further and they say they don’t do those codes and I’m in a small town. Car runs rough and bucks and sputters and rpm needle drops at warm up temp. Crazy how you make it seem so simple yet two years of my life have been hell replacing plugs ,wires, coil pack ,batteries and wires. Even removed the catalytic converter. Can’t tell you what a pain this code is p0036
Hi! I have a 2006 Chrysler Town and Country. I replaced the crankshaft sensor, no codes were popping up related to the sensor but I was just going down the line of parts for another situation...I am now in the position of the video, where the car is running worse and I now have codes 0339 and 0335. Is it the relearn process that is doing this? Blessings!
The relearn has nothing to do with sensor performance. It’s strictly for misfire calibration. Start with the basics and look at your sensor voltage from the signal as a basic first step.
NEED HELP BAD. threw both upstream 1&2 o2 censor & cyl 4 misfire. Changes both censor and coil pack, spark plug. Started it. A coolant code threw, 4 misfire and now 0335. Also smoke came from underneath near bottom of O2 censor and battery. Sounds like it’s steam maybe. Can’t pinpoint it. Also voltage on the car sucks and kills batt. Have to jump it. When it gets hot is when it smokes. Oil was kinda bad on the old spark plug in cyl 4. Out of pocket $700 so far. Anyone know what I need to do instead of send to garage. Tell me what to check or things to check and I will. 2007 is250.
Hi, I would to start off thanking you for the great work that you do. You are my go to guy. i have lean so much from you. that i have try to become a 2% and not one of those 98% that you love so much. If i may .I would like to ask you for some advise. The car in question is a 1995 Toyota tercel. Which every once in a while stall while driving. when you press the brake or turn on the radio, headlights, AC anything electrico. after a few days it return to normal and works fine. During which time i have check For shorted or open wires, Alt outputs with and without a load and everything check out within spec. My very econical scanner is very limited in the amount of information that i get from the car. The code that i was able to get is a PO335 ( crankshaft position sensor A circuit ) and a PO401. i dont want change the crankshaft position sensor , Without finding the real cause of the problem. do you belive the crankshaft sensor would affect all the other electrico loads. Thanking you inadvance for any directions that you can afford me in fixing this issue.
it is pretty clear you have intermittent loss of crank signal. Your best bet is to do a crank sensor bypass by grounding the signal wire several times to see if there is any inconsistency in response. if there isn’t- I would change the crank sensor.
