Pablo charged me double for this one!!! This is a game changer. 

He’s a good lad 👍🏽

@Ellis The DJ you don’t get the joke pablo is Chris

Only really a life saving job if it’s there to protect against inferior workmanship, Chris has done a mighty fine job as always so unless it’s a faulty device there should be no need for the fire suppression device to be installed, the more we start doing “the added extra” to an install the IET will change the Wiring Regs and make the mandatory then this hikes the price up, prime example of this is going to be the installation of AFDD’s in the future

Yeah is still visible from the back of the Rcbo and to be fair if your messing around in a consumer unit you should know what it’s function is.

You're not, leave it white.

@@Cjrelectrical but surely if you're messing about in the CU you should also know to keep them white?

Ease of dressing the front it’s still visibly white.

Great observations however I think this is not an issue, main earth is not a cpc and is green and yellow and some brands of rcbo have green and yellow Earth as well

A invisible friend or split personality where the two halves of the brain are not electrically connected to each other. 🙄

Chris always does a nice neat job, pity then next guy who comes along will probably make it look like dogs dinner again when he comes to install the car charger and heat pump

Are you sure

Metal box full of fire. Placement irrelevant

@@Cjrelectrical you could've atleast cut them two plastic bolts down to hold the tube in place, great install tho as always

@@Cjrelectrical Did you read the instructions?

Agreed. Consumer Unit World supply the Enviroburst one and Its instructions say "Take off the lid, drill 2 holes near the top". But Chris is a professional and doesn't need to read instructions.

My boards will never have a need for this system anyway

Oh its such a long running joke.

I’d imagine because it’s not supposed to be switched under load, doesn’t have any active components like MCBs/RCDs/RCBOs and has heavy gauge cables that are more likely to be terminated correctly so the likelihood of a catastrophic fault is lower than in the CU.

@@daverossy main cause of DB burn outs are loose main neutral on the neutral bar. 'Not supposed to'' isn't really covered in the regs 😁 homeowners are not meant to carry out DIY electrics but they do, not meant to drill through a cable which is in the zone but they do, so we have to plan for all potential circumstances. So why are these not metal enclosures?

@@calvinhale2723 All fair points! You just asked why they aren’t currently and I gave my best reasoning for why, afraid I don’t make the regs so you’d have to speak to someone else if you think things should be changed.

@@daverossy they were good ideas you mentioned, maybe comes down to money like everything else 😆

Only L+N going through it so would need to run a separate earth if metal I suppose

I wanted to know this too 😇

🤣🤣🤣

Yeah can do. But once you hear and see one of these go off I think placement of product won’t matter.

Don’t you mean “open vented system” unvented system wouldn’t normally be taken out to install a combi boiler invented in majority of installs is a pressurised cylinder giving far better performance than a combi boiler could

@@leebutterworth7465 Yes Lee, you are right (:

Good question ... there should be an earth from the bottom of the SPD. Maybe it's hidden behind the din rail

Correct

@@Cjrelectrical Ahh great we dont have that in Switzerland so i was a little confused. Love your content keep up the good work👍 Edit: probably missunderstud its hiden so its the same as here😅

Are you sure!

The Hager board didn’t have any tail clamp and the rear entry from the bottom wouldn’t offer any strain relief but the insert that clips in the bottom is just as good if not better than a compression gland.

@@Cjrelectrical I use cable clamps like you have used going into Pablo’s isolator switch when the tails are next to the wall under the CU

I understand if your on the cards mate but I could spend a week on one only be my lose but would look fantastic.

Three hours max to change any board? No wonder I see so many absolute states when I do inspections etc.....very much depends on the scenario as to how long it takes to make a ‘tidy’ job. That’s not to say you can’t do things quickly, they just often don’t look so good! I’m lucky as Chris says that i can allow the time I need to make a nice job of every one.....glad I’m not up against the clock any more 😂

It (sometimes) helps if you're the one that took it apart... Then you (hopefully) remember what's what when it comes time to put it back together... I personally, am glad I live in Canada and not the UK...we don't use Ring Circuits here, each cable entering the panel goes to a Breaker (Hot/Black or Red), the Neutral Bus Bar (White) and the Ground/Earth Bus Bar (Bare Copper or Green). Each Breaker/Bus Bar Lug is allowed to have 1 wire attached to it. Each Cable feeds 1 Circuit and no single 15 Amp Circuit is allowed to have more than 12 Devices attached to it; with 1 very specific exception - a Circuit that has dedicated, known loads is allowed to exceed the 12 Device Limit as long as the total Current Draw does not exceed 12 Amps. This is usually a Circuit that only has Lights attached to it a Circuit using this exception can NOT have a Receptacle/Socket on it as the load is not fixed.

Yes sorry royalty free music is not royalty free. Sound had to be taken down unfortunately

@@Cjrelectrical Could you listen to what you said in the raw footage and then do a music free voice over repeating what you originally said or is that too much of an Editing PITA?

As I've known, shouldn't be any spare cores, as they should all be terminated to earth.

It’s actually in section 8 of the EAWR had a massive argument with someone about it as I discovered 80v floating on unused cores grrrr.

25mm Galvanized flanged coupler.

No strain relief and looks like a bodge in my opinion

@@Cjrelectrical thats fair enough could you not get away with some of that fancy metal banding with the rubber attached to then class it as strain relief, looks the when the board in cleaned of cables entering

He's not Licensed to touch the City Side of the Electrical Supply. He's allowed to touch everything on the Consumer side of the Isolation Switch but not the City side of the Switch which is why Pablo (or one of his Coworkers) has to install the Isolater - Pablo either works for the City or the Electrical Supply Company (I'm not sure which).

Have a read of the other ‘pablo’ comments and see if you can work it out 😉

@@davecowan9466 OK so Pablo is Chris. So why does he not show us changing the tails and fitting the isolator switch! I have not seen that in any of Chris's videos.

@@LyndonWright Because it’s not ‘strictly’ allowed, although how fussy the suppliers are does vary on area. It’s the unspoken subject in the fusebox changing world!

the regulations in the UK say they must be sleeved

The washers on the consumer unit. Unfortunately youtube algorithm doesn’t favor the wording consumer unit upgrade and we have to include titles that might make you click the video.

Travel

for the clickbait of course, he wanted his cut.

Because Chris kept him hanging about.

@@Cjrelectrical a bit like a glaziers bill. #50 for the new one and #50 for the one you broke!

Exactly just didn’t have the miniature rcbo in that amp range that I wanted.

@@Cjrelectrical thanks Chris - always wondered if there was a difference

No

Radial meaning 1 cable

In the U.K. socket circuits are often wired as ring final circuits where the 2.5mm2 circuit cable leaves and returns to the same 32 Amp MCB in the consumer unit, they were introduced in 1947 at the same time as the rectangular BS1363 13A fused plug and socket that is still used today. Radial circuits are a single cable that supplies sockets but doesn't return to the same MCB, they are also used to supply individual items such as a water heater or a washing machine and typically protected by 16 or 20 Amp MCBs.

Thank you very much for the explanations.

Radial. Basically what you do in Europe and most of the world

The saw has a high start up in rush and will probably need a type "C" breaker as opposed to the generally fitted "B" type.

@@peterwhite51 all a bit confusing . cant really understand why they sell these as domestic 13 amp machines, electricity just baffles me , the saw is only about two feet away from the RCB Unit wonder if that had owt to do with it

@@casper1240 Was it an RCD or an RCBO or an MCB that tripped? An RCD will trip due to excess earth leakage, An RCBO will trip for excess earth leakage and/or overcurrent load, an MCB is purely an overcurrent (fuse) type device, but much more sophisticated.

@@peterwhite51 thanks for replying im no electrician the spark put a seperate circuit in my shop , it says RCD protected on the main box into my shop the unit make says CHINT / possibly chinese not sure .below that are the 13 Amp connections and a caravan socket for my old welder difficult explaining things without seeing them

wierd but the chop saw didnt have an earth cable ?

Yeah Couple of reasons one being an exposed earth cable is more likely to do it’s job in the event of a damaged cable earth fault also if it were double sleeved then it would have to be the same size as the line and neutral. This also keeps manufacturing costs down.

I believe it is just a cost saving measure. In Australia all our earths are sheathed and all earths are required to be stranded. Having said that we don't use any solid any more either.

Think you will find it also makes the cable smaller 👍

From what I have seen they don’t sleeve the ground wires in the USA.

Cost. Someone (Pirelli, I think) used to make T&E with sleeved CPC, but it was discontinued some years ago. I think Ireland mandates sleeved CPC - can anyone confirm?

I did on the other sheath

Early bird catches the worm.

Next week hopefully

@@Cjrelectrical still no hager code i guess

👎🏼

@@Cjrelectrical No worries went elsewhere and was cheaper than it would have been even if i did get the 5% off lol ,

I do both gas and electrics. It's permissible. As long as it's a room sealed appliance and it's safe. Always recommended to have a CO detector fitted. You can't smell, see or taste Carbon monoxide, It's the silent killer. Most modern boilers are room sealed so it's fine.

Mines in the bedroom ,it's a Victorian house converted in to flats,it used to be the lounge so quite big with 10ft ceilings,fitted a CO detector where it is in a cupboard no problem 👍

No, not good. The sound of it going on and off will disturb your sleep if you’re a light sleeper. Safety wise a bedroom is the last place I would site a boiler.

@@gadgetman36 just as loud as a smoke detector, and my CO detector activates the other detectors,but yes it is Taboo ,👍

@@gadgetman36 thanks bud

You can only fit breakers that are type approved the enclosure, so finding compliant replacement breakers can be hard and expensive on an old consumer unit, so its easier to just replace it with all new equipment that has been made to comply with the latest regulations. Fitting one RCCD to cover everything would also not be appropriate.

Are the regulations retrospective? Shouldn't the EICR be carried out on the basis of the regs that were in force at the time the install was made? Often this isn't clear but most sparkies can tell by looking. Only deterioration or initial non compliance be snagged. Otherwise every reg change is a licence to print money.