Those needle packing drivers are a godsend!!! Replacing the packing was such a HUGE pain before Iwata released those. I'd been painting a while with urethanes before they came out with solvent-proof packing so I had to do it quite often.
Thanks for your videos. Been airbrushing model kits for about 4+ years now and much of what I've learned is trial and error. Very informative and helpful!!
What a great video. I have used a very cheap air brush in the past. Didn't have the benefit of a good video on cleaning or much of anything else. Will be purchasing the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS tomorrow so this was just the video I needed to watch. I subscribed so will be watching your other videos when I get the Iwata. Thanks again.
@@AirbrushAsylum I was wondering if you knew of a dealer or any websites that I can order the Ultimate brand Ultimate Airbrush thinner for acrylics ???? I I contacted the only place I could find it on ebay and their response was they can't ship out of England because it's flammable. Thank you very much for your time.
Thank you, this is exactly what happened on my iwata several times since I got one. What's the reason for the paint to leak in the back ? (too much paint, wrong air pressure, keeping the trigger on for too long) ? thanks.
What is your cleaning procedure in the event that you get paint in the trigger chamber? I overfilled my paint cup and the excess spilled into that area. Do I need to remove the piston or is flushing the whole airbrush with distilled water good enough?
Thanks. You have demistifyed needle packing. I think mine must have gone as I get loads of paint in the back of the brush - an Iwata HP-CS. Sadly I guess I must fork out the big money for the Iwata cleaning kit.
... I didn't even know my airbrush had packing lol :) Oof.. Okay well I either need to replace mine or refit it. I wish the maintenance kit I got from Iwata had one of those nice screwdrivers :/
On my NEOECO the three included needles all have the same basic shaft diameter of 1.18 mm with the .2 .3 and .5 mm needles point area tapered to match the nozzles. SO, measure the needle shaft where the sealing takes place and measure the diameter of the seal you need.... The PROPER adjustment is where you can just feel slight resistance of the needle when it mates with the seal. I also put a "finger wipe" of glycerine on the needle shaft when inserting from the rear... MOST IMPORTANTLY, as NOT shown here, ALWAYS remove a used/dirty needle out of the FRONT, and the clean needle in from the REAR.... Removing a dirty needle from the rear subjects the seal to any stuck on crud and the tapered needle point "self centers" into the seal when needle is inserted from the rear.... It is just a smart thing to do....
The trigger is sticking inside the mechanism that opens the valve. If you have the lubricant that should have come with the airbrush you can put a small drop in that hole the trigger's pin fits into and work it in and out a couple of times to get the lube down in it. That should fix the air continuing to run.
Those iwata mats are small and overpriced ! I use a soldering mat they are larger and have a rim around it so no worry of losing parts and cost much less than iwata mat .
