I found your channel a little while ago, and love that you actually dig into the "why" of what you're doing, alongside the "how." Knowing how to think about one's process and approach is, in my experience, far more important than performing a scheme by rote. I always come away from your videos understanding more about working in this medium, and having better questions to dig deeper into than watching a number of other channels. Thank you, for sharing your time, effort, experience, and insights with us, and keep up the amazing work.
I laughed loud at "if it's too long for you, you are probably on the wrong channel anyway". I'm just starting and now I'm sure i found right source of information. Thank you for exactly what you're doing - long, detailed videos that show many hows and whys.
For a relative novice (me), I love seeing how long it takes you to get the desired effect - it gives me the confidence to spend hours knowing that it'll finally get there. Thank you.
It's more about being aware, that sometimes you need to invest time to EXPERIMENT and ADJUST to find what you want and that this can take a while. Painting and learning to paint is not about reproducing a recipie, where you do A then B and C and this is the effect. That is the GW approach of basecolor, wash, edgehighlight - but that prevents you from getting creative and finding YOUR way and your ENJOYABLE way of painting :)
@@trovarion Totally agree - seeing guys like you painting, shows that it's not a fixed recipe which gets exceptional results, reinforcing my desire to try different things. Cheers
You have truly outdone yourself here. You know I was already looking forward to this. You got me to actually think I could try some freehand which I never thought I could do "That's for real artists." Thank you so much!
11.42 it was great but that little layer of emerald was subtle but impactful. Nice work. No screaming required. Dark sea blue is my go to colour. Amazing. Sorastro tipped me off to that colour
Oh my goodness, that is amazing! Thank you for sharing your techniques with us...i have such a long way to go but your videos help so much! Doubt I'll ever come close, but ar least I now understand how the effects are achieved. Thank you!
Thanks for the metal tutorial. I have been experimenting with muting/shading true metallics and then highlighting with a another metal to bring the shine back. I have not been thinning my metal paints so far as you have with this piece. Thanks for letting me know that I can do that with the SC75 metals! Now to go try this on a model....
I think they're pretty useful even if you're just starting. Don't expect to be able to do what he's doing, but take note of what he's saying and incorporate what you can into your own work. Like giving flat surfaces hue shifts in the basecoat etc.
People should pay attention to the fact that he didn't shade and highlight the skull to look like an actual skull - ie: shadows shaping the roundness of the top of the skull or the orbital bones; harsh lines framing the jaw and teeth, etc. This is important because it wouldn't be a 3-dimensional skull, like people see airbrushed onto the side of the gas can of a motorcycle; it would be a 2-dimensional tribal-style painting of a skull on a relatively flat surface. Think of how ancient Greeks would paint symbols on their shields, for example. It's meant to be more like a tattoo than a 3-dimensional structure. A subtle, but VERY important difference. Great work as always, Christoph!
I rather enjoy the way you explain stuff even if the video is a little longer than most people's. I would rather have a video that explains and shows examples as something is being done. Not saying there is a wrong or right way about doing them by any means, But I prefer your method over some who do the images while talking over them trying to explain how it was done.
Yo love your channel. you should have used gouache to paint the freehand stuff that way you can erase it any time you want even if it's fully dried. Try it I would love to see a video from you on using gouache. After you seal it with varnish boom you have your freehand
For removing detail I highly recommend getting a cheap wireless dremel from Action for example (is a store in Belgium) on the lowest settings you can be surprisingly accurate and controlled (diamond dust coated drill bits). I find with a knife I might sometimes hit spots I don't want to, whereas the dremel allow me to take away the bulk and sandpaper away the rest. Do you ever use a dremel? I've yet to see you use one. Love the vids, keep em coming :D
Love the video! I was looking for a nmm shading with tmm videos and this hits all the marks! One question though, do you have a suggestion on cleaning metal particles from brushes? I already use lower quality brushes for metallics but if I could extend their life a little bit it would help a lot in these quarantine times.
@@trovarion thanks for the quick response! sadly dedicated brush soap is out of reach for me atm but I'll keep it in mind for when things return to normal!
Wish i was half that good at Freehands .I tryed to paint a Lionhead on my Celestrial Lions but did not manage it so i painted a Caligraphy L on the shoulder, which turned out to be "thoughtless" because after the match my opponent jokes "You should have painted the L on their forehead.
Absolutely fantastic work! The many techniques this video goes through are excellent and well explained, I would have just done it all in the "Arnold" voice from the bloopers :P Quick question, do you have any recommendations for visor magnifiers (brand, magnification, etc)? I bought a cheap one on amazon and find it not only doesn't magnify well, it is next to impossible to use. I see you use one in the video so they clearly work for you.
you mentioned matte varnishing the background before doing the freehand. Have you noticed this makes it easier to correct mistakes?And how do you fix it again? by using a damp brush?
it puts a layer between the gradient I painted first and the freehand. so I can swipe a damp brush over the surface without wiping away paint used to painte the gradient when i want to correct the white layer of paint from the freehand.
@@trovarion Thank you very much. That's what I thought you were saying, but I wanted to make sure. Looking forwards to implementing this little "tactic" :)
You can also keep a smaller old brush that you have cut the bristles off flat fairly close to the ferule resting on your palettes sponge so it stays damp. It can quickly be picked up to lightly rub and erase any mistakes as well.
I know I asked you what brush you used and I see that you use the Rapheal, but do you use that for basing or do you have a certain ratio, like synthetics for 75& or something...etc? If you already explained this, sorry, I'm jumping around in the videos. You're channel is my new addiction and I tend to ask many questions.
I dont know what you mean with ratio? I use the raphs for everything, except for things that would damage a brush too much, like alcohol based colors or rough surfaces, or heavy duty texture paint slapping, etc.
@@trovarion That would be about a 100%. That's what I was curious about. Most painters seem to say to use cheaper brushes for most basing, washes, and metallics. I did not know Rapheals were that durable.
@@studiofoureightnine i wouldnt say 100%. No need to use them for things that kill them. But I use them for metallics. You can apply the first layer with a shit brush if you are worried.
@@trovarion I am honored by your answer and it raised some curiosity in me :) If you permit further questions: what would qualify as a "Trovarion worthy" mini? Does it need to have a lot of fine details? Does it have to be from a specific universe? Would you paint Rising Sun board game minis? How about from A Song of Fire and Ice they have a mini game in a fantasy word with nice detailed sculpts.
@@andraslibal It's not about "worth" - I just like scifi more than say historical - and fantasy is somewhere in between. And sure, I would paint stuff from fantasy games - if the quality of the sculpts is good - but I dont have the budget to spend 90, 100+ bucks on boardgames just to paint one figure.
What varnish did you use? If you wouldn't have mentioned it I wouldn't have seen it at all, the metal looked identical :o Edit: just realised you prob just brushed on varnish over the green part :')
You can make a rocking stippling brush by taking an old standard size brush and cropping off the tip, leaving it with a flat end. Sponge method is too much pain in the arse fo small scale. Sponge is great for tanks and such though...
вьебал лайк не глядя, потому что тема видео просто разррвала мне жопу. P.S: that was russian, and if you wonder what does it mean you can translate it)
