First time trying out Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II on parts for my upcoming build. Really Like how it is turning out, stay tuned for more to come! Tools on Amazon I recommend: www.amazon.com...
I know this a little late, were you a Seabee? My father was in the Navy as a Seabee from WW2 until 1970. I just watch this video on using Aluma-Hyde going to paint my AR 15 300 BLK with a 8.5 barrel
Yup was a bee for several years. And ww2 til 70... no doubt he saw some shit... wow. The alumahyde works well and holds up decent. Just clean, preheat, and bake in, awesome stuff.
I did a CAR 15 build about 25 years ago and finished the receivers & barrel in Aluma Hyde II Dark Grey Parkerizing. It came out great, almost matched actual parkerizing. I still have it and it has aged just about the real thing. with a very slight greenish tint, no chips or flake offs. If you follow directions and let it cure for a week or two, it's indestructible.
I wouldnt doubt, brownells has been around over 75 yrs, they do have their rattle can and pro style self mix paint versions. They had the self mix type forever now
Lol, will be -20C in the morning here lol. Missed your live stream the other night was date night with the wifey lol. Thanks for watchin tony, send some of that warm weather our way
Looks like a nice start, and I like that color. I actually never heard of this stuff before, I haven't gotten anything cerakoted or anything like that before. Have a nice weekend!
thanks Fu! it went on well for sure! as for cerakote stuff, well, looked at getting burnt bronze job by shop here in town but was weee bit pricey, not to get the rest of this thing slapped together and hopefully wont have to mess with it too much after that... unlike some other guy we know lololol.
I have used Brownells Ceramicote on several firearms. It requires baking. I use a cheap toaster oven to preheat and bake the parts. Epoxy paints are an excellent choice for coating. Prep is very important. Thanks for the great video!
Baking is not required.. Baking just speeds up the curing process of the Aluma-Hyde II epoxy. If you do bake the pieces you are applying the Aluma-Hyde to, it usually takes a full week to cure. You can still use the part as normal during this time, it simply just won't be fully cured and thus, not as strong and durable. I will would recommend to anyone using Aluma-Hyde to go ahead and bake the pieces though.. definitely speeds up the curing process.
@@JohnAntikainen you clearly didn't read what he wrote, and instead just skimmed over his comment, in a hurry to type your $0.02 explaining how he's wrong about certain things....which he WASN'T, by the way......if you look carefully and actually READ his words, he was specifically talking about using Brownell's "CeramiCote" which is a specialty paint coating that has very fine ground ceramic and silica infused into the paint mixture. And going thru the the baking process is ABSOLUTELY necessary when using that stuff, at least if you want it to turn out decent and stay on the items you sprayed it on. I use a very similar product to coat guns and such, made by a company called VHT. They make many different high temperature resistant paints for automotive applications, like engine block enamel, brake caliper paint, etc...But the one I use is called "Very High Temp, Flame Proof Header Paint" (only when I want the object to end up solid, flat black because there's not many color options in this line that would look right on firearms. Otherwise, I go with the Brownell's or similar, when I need firearm specific colors that aren't black). If you dont cure this particular paint by baking it multiple times at increasing temperatures, it will remain slightly tacky feeling, and can be scratched off of whatever it's on fairly easily, probably even with a fingernail if you really were determined to. However, after curing in an oven 3 to 4 times, starting at 250°F and ending at 600°F for 30-40 minutes, the ceramic and silica within the paint does something remarkable, because you end up with a finish that is resistant to gas, diesel, acetone, mineral spirits, gun cleaning products, and most other harsh chemicals. Not only that, but due to the ceramic, the surface hardness is drastically increased, even resisting scratches/Mark's from contacting other items, unless you try pretty hard to leave a mark on it. The company claims that once cured, this paint is safe to withstand constant temps of 1,300°F, and intermittent temps of up to 2,000°F, as well as limited exposure to direct flames to a certain extent, before permanent damage will occur to the finish. It's worked pretty well for me over the years, and is relatively inexpensive when compared to AlumaHyde, DuraCoat, CeraKote, or other specialty firearm finishes, costing around $9-$10 per can at most auto parts stores. O'Reilly Auto Parts typically keeps it in stock at almost every location/store of theirs that I've been to in the U.S.
So far as far as regular gun oils, hoppes solvent and what not havent had any issues. I havent tried brake or carb clean on it after its been painted, so i dont know what result could be there. Thank you for watching, any other questions feel free to ask
@@beardedseabee82outdoors13 Cool thanks, I'm working on AK build and wanted something different then just black receiver. I'm going to give it a shot. Thanks again.
It’s pretty damn solvent resistant. I sprayed over my pmag window and had to reapply acetone to the paint multiple times. Took around 20 minutes to completely removed the paint
Wow, i could see where importation would have its limits indeed, but yes this stuffbworks great, and is true is nice brownells is short driving distamce from where i live Thank you for watching
Great video thanks brother. I like it going with that and the black should look awesome. Keep up the great work see you in the next video thanks again brother
well, we do have time and i know i probably wont be using up all the paint in the cans on just this and thacks build. pretty sure that we would be able to come up with something sweet lookin!
Also, I have built some target stands. 😁 They should be really nice to use. Now if it'd quit snowing and warm up a bit, would have a chance to have some fun.
I had a vid, but last month youtube took it down and gave me a strike because of the link to brownells website... even though it was direct to their spraypaint amd not actual gun stuff. So i gotta find time to do that vid over again. But actually it holds up fairly well.
Thanks sw1, was cm2, prior to that abh3, prior to that cti2 ( yeah got around and pissed some folks off once lol) I just did new handguard for my rifle in the magpul coyote/fde here lik while ago, just gotta go to range so i can finish that vid up... soon as things reopen of course. Hope you are well
I just did mine yesterday in coyote, came out looking darker and grayish than magpuls FDE so now I'm real curious how yours came out with the aluma Hyde Magpul fde
Well my aero fde upper reciever been on my rifle quite a while, but my hanguard did come out darker. I dont know if it was because can of paint was a year old or what because it looks darker than the AOK build i did last year too
@@beardedseabee82outdoors13 dont think they will ever get it dead on to Magpuls FDE. I use to make Gun videos too, but with RU-vid being anti 2A, I made a fishing channel and started doing that, but once in awhile I still wanna put gun vids up haha
@@beardedseabee82outdoors13 having painted a lot of cars with spray cans I would estimate 8 to 10 cans to paint a Cherokee with aluminide I don't think you need any more than 10 though I really think you're probably about 8:00
That looks pretty good man and seems like a pretty easy process. I've not heard of this product before so thanks for showing it and I'll be paying close attention to your results. One of my handguns came with some pretty poor blue on the slide and since its my EDC it easy gets some rusty spots and discoloration. I'm wondering if something like this could be a solution or an alternative to cold blue.
Not quite equivelent to baking in oven. I still took parts home after to do an oven hardening cure, but heat gun helps paint set faster between applicationa
Thankyou, well, the flag went on Thack's build, we just finished it over weekend, vid to be up hopefully soon next few days, just gotta finish editing but turned out nice!
It has lasted quite well actually as seen here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KMf6igIHsJo.html and as for heating, it is recommended as it helps open up poors on metal and also cure better. As for.glock/pistol usage have heard some folks have done so, but personalky i have not. Thanks for watching!
How long did you let it set in between coats before hitting it with the heat gun? After hitting it with the heat gun did you let it sit, or apply another coat right away? Also, did you put it in the oven to cure after all coats? Looking to do this on my Glock 43 slide
Hi Samantha, thank you for watching. As for in between coats, i would wait until the paint flashed (went from wet look to starting to dry look) before hitting it up with the heat gun again, doing just a few coats until all looked even. Did however find that i should have done a full mock up (fitment of upper and lower were pretty tight...). Then after everything was dry enough to transport, took home and cured in the oven, lowest setting for 1.5 hrs, then let everything sit in oven overnight to allow to come slowly to room temp. Hope this helps!
@@beardedseabee82outdoors13 awesome, thanks for your feedback. I'm building 1 and is at raw cast now. Didnt really want to spend 100 bucks just to paint the reciever. Thanks again!!
