Dooey! My husband and I have watched a dozen videos done by every TV DIY personality. We tried, we fought, we failed. Then we watched you and there was no comparison. You, man, are the pro! We saw you and you told us things no one else had. Thanks to you we are renewed and will begin again, allowing ourselves the time and patience to practice and improve. Thank you for your videoed efforts and instruction.
Thank you for doing this series of video son glazing windows. You do a great job of explaining where I can understand easily. I feel confident in doing the job I need to do. 🙂
The first couple tries can be frustrating, but you’ll get the hang of it😊 Thank you for the feedback! And I’m glad I could help. Feel free to ask me if there’s anything that comes up along the way, that gives you questions!👍
great stuff mate, i just watched this and your glazing in place video and i learnt a lot. Im not the quickest but i have done enough glazing to be able to get a good result but i never thought to keep my putty back from the rebate slightly for the paint. Ive repaired and painted enough windows to know the importance of going onto the glass and it always annoys me on old windows that every time its painted the line creeps forward. Ill need to get one of those wide scrapers ive always used a sharpened painters scraper or a stanley knife blade to trim the paint. I dont get the opportunity to do this work often, all newer windows seems to just be a siliconed on timber glazing bead. Just hoping i havent lost all my skills the next time it comes around.
That’s the real trick to it! I have done thousands of these, but always spread out between doing other projects. Always takes a little time to get back the feel for it. But never as long as when we first learned. I tried to get out of doing it after my first few attempts 20 years ago. But glad I stuck with it, and “eventually” figured it out 👍
Thank you for the detailed info on the entire reglazing process. I have been struggling and going between tons of videos. Wish I would have found yours first! I do have a few questions. I'm located in central PA and notcied lots of people use glazing points and my old windows have them. Should I replace the ones needed or is this an unnecessary step? Next, my windows are old, wooden, single pane, double hung windows. Do you have a glazing compound you recommend for this specific situation? Do you feel it is ok to do this in 30-60° weather? Thanks again for the great detail and videos.
I would definitely recommend Sarco “Duall Glaze” compound for that! You’ll find it challenging to glaze in cooler weather, but it definitely can be done. You really have to kneed it a bit more to get it to unstiffen. But on the glazing points, you might see if they are rusted badly or not. If they look in great condition, go ahead and leave them. I normally take the glass out, and redo everything, but that isn’t always necessary, and can create a lot of extra work. If you run into any problems, feel free to ask! And thank you 😊
Very much appreciate your videos and advice. Couple of questions, my windows face west and get that Texas heat all summer. Even painted, how long should one expect the glazing to last before having to redo the project? Second, is there some type of synthetic glazing (like a moulding) that can be cut and caulked to the glass. I'm looking for longevity.
I’m Extremely familiar with the Texas sun!!! And those are great questions. First off, on the west side of a building in south Texas, you can expect maintenance every 5 years or so. You don’t always have to redo the hole thing, but when the glazing putty develops cracks, or separates from the glass, it needs to be dealt with ASAP. I have worked on several old buildings that used a wooden glass stop instead of glazing putty. Realistically, it is better for longevity and maintenance, if done right. I always design it to shed water, and make them out of a suitable outdoor wood species.
Question on priming and painting window glazing 200 yd from the ocean (think constant salt-fog test). Metal sash windows from the 1940s so this is "in place". I used Sarco Dual Glaze and it worked well. I previously painted the house with latex, but I'm fine using oil based primer on the glazing. What is the downside of painting over the oil based primer with latex?
Primers are typically universal, as far as the compatibility with the top coat. So, it is often spec’d by architects to use an oil based primer, with a high quality, latex top coat. But in this case, the big issue tends to be compatibility with the glazing compound. I really like the Sarco (DualGlaze). I find that it outperforms the DAP 1012 .
@@dooeydessimal8917 do you still prime $ paint of the Sarco?? Thanks and what do you think about glazing with tubes instead of by hand?? Thanks 👍 your video is awesome
I’ve never had issues with the mildew after the paint, with the exception of one job. But I noticed that it cleaned off from the paint very easily. I used Sherwin Williams Emerald on that one. And it was right by the coast, where humidity was an every day thing. But what I have noticed is that paint is cleanable, and glazing is not. So making sure that there is adequate paint coverage is important to maintenance
Hi, yours is a great video! I am working on the wooden, single pane, double hung windows on our home (1913); I do not see any glazing points; should I use them? (the glazing is in terrible shape). Thanks.
Thank you!! I would definitely recommend adding glazing points if there are none. You can normally find the little push points at the hardware store, and they are typically pretty easily added in.
Thanks! I use china bristle on oil based, even primers. Just seems to work better than the “all paints” kinds. But Purdy is usually my go to as far as brands. Even though I’ve used others with no real issues. If you take care of your brush, you can get a lot of use out of it.
one of the main consideration seems to me to be to determine how dry should the glaze be before applying the prime coat? I glazed a couple of weeks ago and the sun out west has hit the window directly since then (south facing window). However, I just checked and the glaze is still a bit soft to the touch! Is it ok to apply the primer now or do I need to wait until the glaze is rock hard?
Definitely doesn’t have to get rock hard. What you’re looking for is a ‘skin’. 2weeks is typically enough, but sometimes takes longer when using DAP 33. But it will be a long long time before it’s rock hard. You still need to be careful not to push it too hard with your fingers while painting
@@dooeydessimal8917 thanks for your prompt response. First of all, I did use the DAP33 putty. My finger does make a indentation if I push on the putty. It's getting direct sun all day. It's been a couple of weeks now. Should I venture ahead and apply a latex primer coat?
@@checkeredflagfilms so glad you mentioned “latex” Different putties have different primers. Dap 33 has always required an oil based primer, unless they changed the formula. Zinzer works well, and dries fast, and won’t break the bank
@@dooeydessimal8917 Ok. Once it's primed with 'oil base' can I use water base latex to paint over the primer? I've used water on the house...so it would be good if I could it on this one single window.
So, a few things depend on your primer, and the glazing compound, and temperatures. But typically, once the glazing has skinned over (usually after 2 weeks) it can be primed. Most primers dry quickly, and can be painted within a few hours
This is a steel window in the film that I’m reglazing. It had metal clips that held the glass in, rather than the traditional glazing points that you would find in a wooden window sash
Sometimes you have to use an oil based primer, depending on the type of glazing putty that you use. But you can use a latex paint over the top of it, if you prefer
🤣Yeah, that brush is a little big, but there are other large areas that it comes in handy for. I guess I’m too lazy to carry around an extra brush. I since found a square angled brush that works extremely well for this situation
@@bondenjongen thanks for the info! I’ll have to check that out. I’ll be making some wood sash windows in another month or so, and most likely be finishing them myself 👍
This guy is ridiculous. You paint on the glass and then use a 6 inch knife and a scrapper blade to get a straight line and leave just enough on the glass. I restore wood windows, message me with any questions.
