You all probably dont care at all but does someone know of a way to log back into an instagram account? I somehow forgot the login password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me!
@Raphael Ali thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I LOVE how you included the tip on using a clear colored paint over a mettalic with Tamiya. One of my favorite techniques to use when painting figures.
I wish I did that on restoring 2 vintage Kenner C-3po figures to get the color back. Color was very close but not as shiny as what Kenner used in 1978 and 1982.
I appreciate your experience and going over each type of paint. Very helpful. The prep work you mention is also great! No one really talks about putting in the work but you nailed it. Thanks.
When I have been using acrylic paint for sculptures, for many years, the skin texture always looked choppy. But now that you gave me all the important info on making the skin texture look great. I like to thank you so much! Great info.
I for one would LOVE to see some live customization videos. I’ve been customizing MOTUC figures for five years but I don’t think my prep and technique is very good at all, so I’d be way in to seeing someone else do it.
I really appreciate your taking time to make this video. My #1 reason for my 10-year absense from customizing is that i didn't understand apex-level choices for supplies like paints & such. I only want to customize if i can make the figure look exactly the way i want it to. Thank you for giving me the tools i need to get over my concerns.
I customize a lot of figures and I've always used paints like apple barrel, and i never liked how when you move the joints the paint comes off, i never sanded anything, this video really helped a lot, thanks
Thank you very much for the informative video. Recently Walmart messed up an order & I ended up with three extra McFarlane DC multiverse figures. I look forward to attempting some of your techniques. Thanks for the help.
I've been painting figures off and on for a few years now and I've been using straight acrylic (the one on the far left) without watering it down and it always came out a little funny. I've only recently discovered I need to sand and wash them too, so I've got quite a bit to learn. Thanks a bunch for the help, hopefully this helps make my custom Combiner Wars piece come along better.
Sanding is the process of rubbing a coarse material, generally sandpaper or sanding sticks, across a surface. Generally this is done to scuff the surface, which allows the paint to stick better. However, it can also be done to remove a top coat, old paint, or even scratches and dents in some materials.
Have You ever painted Capes ?? Because everything is gravy w/ the _Sharpie_ paint pens I use. Even the cheap $1 Walmart paint pens are okay for touch up or A topper (Deco-color & Craftsman pens stay away). Anyhow it seems like anytime I paint A cape (even after sanding), it leads to paint rub back onto the figure. Not as much on the joints; Nothing compared to the paint rub I get on the Capes !!! > This is the 3rd differnt cape I painted now & it seems like the problem presists across all toy lines w/ the cape(s). And the paint not sticking properly. ANY TIPS ????
I usually just kitbash and then paint smaller ad on parts with craft paint and that works fine but lately I’ve trying to do more difficult customs that require an entirely new paint job so this was very helpful. I’m gonna get some p3 lol
@@KimotaCustoms I figured you'd find it humorous if you were active still. Good news is you are! I was looking for paint for some old AFs and your post popped. Thanks for the strong recommendations. #Subscribed
I needed this video. I plan on doing some customs on transformers figures, but I haven't customized a figure in a long time because the paint was always way too textured. I hate seeing brushstrokes on customs. Nice knowing a bit more about paints to use because that was my biggest concern.
Apple Barrel paints and Arteza are my go to paints for action figures. Haven't let me down yet. Only reason i am moving towards Testors Acrylic is because i am running out of the other two. Am super satisfied with the results of my customs and statuettes that i've done. Can't wait to give these other a suggestions a try. Solid recommendations all around.
The Apple Barrels work way better than this guy says lol and good luck getting Testor's Acrylic. I've tried so hard looking for them and all I can ever find are their enamel paints. Tamiyas work really well too but you need to get a retarder for it and it requires alcohol as a thinner.
@@LitchAzazel The problem with Apple Barrel paints is that they do not have strong binding agents. They're completely water based. So if you try using these paints on resin pieces, PVC statues or action figures, you won't be able to play with them or touch them too much. Otherwise you'll be looking at paint flaking off. Like you can literally take your nail and scrape away Apple Barrel paints from non porous plastic surfaces. You can also wash away apple barrel paints quite easily in hot water. If you try and use Dullcote or any other solvent based protectors, it will activate and separate the barrel type paints and give a very ugly result. Apple Barrel and Craftsmart type paints were made for use on paper, wood, foam boards, and such highly porous surfaces. Not smooth plastics. I've first tried Apple Barrel years ago on my 1990s movie Donatello (tmnt) head sculpt, which I still have up on my vid section. I used a purple color for his bandana, because I was hoping to achieve a very convincing fabric finish (super matte finish) and I knew these types of paint dry very flat. It gave me a very nice finish and it looked like actual cotton fabric, next to his semi-gloss satin skin finish. Sadly... the paint just didn't hold up. I was able to scrape it off very easily and when I tried coating it with a protector (testor's dullcote), it cracked the paint up and it looked like a total mess. I ended up opting with Tamiya (which I use almost exclusively on all my customs and sculpts) as well as Mr Color. Tamiya and Mr Color are acrylic but they have very strong binding agents. Mr Color is the stronger of the two and you can smell it. (smells horrible). So if you're going to use Apple Barrel, then I'm assuming you understand you can't handle it too much after you're done. I like being able to handle my customs without the fear of flaking paint.
Great video and very helpful. I review figs and have been tempted to try customization. I had tried doing a black wash and it was a disaster because I didn't know what I was doing. Thanks again for your video.
I really like tamiya primer. Granted its a pretty small can for the money but i really like how smoothe it lays down and how it dries quick and it seems to stick to anything. I used to do alot of hot wheels customs but have just recently got into gi joe classified figures and have wanted to do some custom cobra army figures so im trying to figure out what paint will work the best.
Thank you for explaining the differences between paints and primer. I really would like to see a life tutorial. I found some of my kids old action figures while cleaning out the basement and I was going to donate them but I thought why not try to customize them it will be a good project for my grandson and I since we both like art.
I use all of these with good results, except P3. I don't think they sell P3 in Ireland. The best and smoothest primer I have used to date, is actually a particular brand of automotive paint. A really thin coat of epoxy resin dulled down with anti-shine afterwards gives great protection against moving part paint abrasion. I sculpt, mold and cast figures and some have received heavy knocks with no effect because of the epoxy coatings.
Thanks for the video. I have been re collecting and re carding the vintage Kenner star wars figures using the restore nation re card kits. I had good results with testers and model color. Had to mix some paints to get the right or close color. Because most were touch ups and repair I didn't water the paints down. No problems except one dis appointment was touching up a Luke Skywalker bespin outfit hair. I used the same paint I used on the Luke Skywalker from a new hope. Problem is maybe the paint wasn't cured enough or because I was moving it after it was sealed in the blister some paint rubbed of from the crown of Luke bespin hair. The model color paint grey I found was exactly like the color on tie fighter pilots boots and gloves. I used that grey on some repro weapons one success was on my Luke Skywalker in Jedi outfit. The repro weapons lot I got were slightly lighter grey than the original Kenner versions and Luke Jedi came with a jabbas palace blaster. All the colors from the lot were nothing like the original because I have another Jedi Luke I bought when I was a kid. I painted the blaster with the grey I used on tie fighter and I compared with the original it was the same. I think Kenner used the same colors on slot of figures and accessories back then. I used the same Gold on my 2 C-3po figures to paint the trim on bespin security guard and compared it to a mint on card original online and it looked great. The return of the Jedi figures were hard but I was able to touch up 8d8 and emporer figures. The torso on 8d8 is yellow and I don't want to do the hydrogen peroxide method because it has some nice pair areas. My only disappointment is the paint is a little flat I might need to put a clear coat? I had this problem when I made a vinyl Cape for Ben Kenobi. The repros in the market were not close in color with originals and to get originals were very expensive. I used 3:colors to get a 98% to the original cape. The downside the paint was cracking now after watching your video I see what my mistake was.
Thanks for the information. I’m looking to repaint my Lanyard Queen Alien figure. It’s highly poseable and worried the paint will rake off on joints when moving it around.
Going to attempt to make a Mr. Negative custom on the Everett Ross body. Any suggestions on painting the rubbery jacket? And do you know how to do pearlescents?
Could you do a video on how to sand properly and ive been using a Dawn dish liquid soak for 2 minutes then scrub them few seconds with a bottle brush. I'd love to see what tools to sand with. I have a dremel but not sure what end to use for sanding I don't wanna grind down too far. Thank you. Really enjoy your vids.
Definitely post guides on here. This video just showed me a ton of mistakes just with paint I’ve been making. After applying you last acrylic layer should you put anything else on the last coat to help preserve it?
I'm a converted digital artist (self taught, non-professional) and am used to creating layered color gradients. Is it possible to create similar effects with water-based acrylic paint on a 3D surface, such as a plastic figure, without using an airbrush tool? To my inexperienced mind, the water content in the next thin paint layer combined with brush pressure would unintentionally remove too much of your prior coat. Watercolors obviously blend well but the paper retains a lot of the liquid. Would primer serve this role for water-based acrylics? Thanks for the opinion piece. I'll subscribe to see what other tips you have for us.
i wanted to paint 40th anniversary he-man's weapons. they are just grey plastic, i did it once with some leather paint i had, i didn't prep the weapon before hand so idk if it would have worked enough for the time. i picked up some 2 hard additive and figured i'll give it a try. i wasn't prepared for buying action figure customizing paints an stuff so could have just not got the 2 hard but i might need it later on. i'll pick up some of what you got going on.
Hello, thanks for the video, it helped me a lot. Based on this video, I started using vallejo instead of testor enamel (you are right, it never dries). Right now the problem I am having is that everytime I touch a figure I paint, some pills off; I tried using army primer and the primer remains in place but the paint still falls off after a couple of times handleling the figure. I tried to use varnish from vallejo but doesn't keep the paint in place. Do you have any suggestions? Some people have told me to use clear glue or polyurethane but I dont know what brand to use and trying glue made one of my figures have cracks :( . Thank you in advance for your response
where i live the most common type of acrilic you found is the one that comes in 50ml bottles, the label only says it is "decorative acrylic"...is it good for customs? i used it in some miniatures and it worked just fine
I intend on customizing my McFarlane Doomslayer, although I intend on doing minor repainting on it, would you recommend me to use a Scotchbrite pad for the tiny details and a primer? If so, which primer?
Lol.. This is literally the same Fig i'm thinking about repainting. I was wondering same type thing. What's best way to remove stock paint on action figures??
I’d like to see a live video of you painting the New Endgame Captain America’s scale suit a shade lighter. How would you sand something like that and would you paint the over the whole part or paint each individual scale?
Thanks for the tips! If you're still taking questions, I have 2: Are first coats naturally uneven and unsmooth in texture, and can the fifth or sixth coat look good regardless of how the first looks, or would that be a sign that you needed to start over? And when painting silver, is a white basecoat standard?
All coats should be even and smooth. No different than painting a wall. Silver can go over white gray or black primer. How it looks after may carry with that primer undercoating being different. I usually do black primer with silver paint
What do you recommend for prepping aside from sanding for a piece that has, like, more detailed sculpt on it than a smooth Legends blank body, like a belt piece, and don't want to lose any of that detail?
Look of 3M scotch-brite. They're a red color wool pad. Looks like a green scrub sponge for dishes. I paint airplanes and we use them for exactly what you're talking about. They make all kinds of grit just like sand paper. You're gonna want medium grit. Not too coarse but not too fine like a green dish sponge. Hope that helps
I have American diorama 1/18 scale resin figures that a would like to repaint/change the color on them but i don't know how to do it and what type of paint should i by for it? Can you guide me on that please? And thank you.
Another way of getting mold release out of the surface of plastic is to lay the figure under an ultra violet lamp for a few hours and allow the plastic to sweat out the mold release.
I only use Craftsmart/Applebarrel for touch ups on vinyl figures or mat surfaces but be careful this is only for touch ups and is prone to scrape off...
Vallejo paints have two lines game color which are geared more toward fantasy lines with brighter vibrant colors and model color which are geared toward model kits and realistic wargameing (hince why most sets are grouped by uniform colors). But yeah the only difference is who they are primarily marketed to that being said most people mix and match
Yo bro trying to do a scarlet spider custom and not really sure which paint brand to get. Defiantly want my fig to have a matte finish but I also want to also cover up some of the paint that I wasn't able able to get off and that wont take that much coats to finish with. I also saw someone cover a figure in white and painted over it which looked pretty easy to paint over and not sure if I should do the same. The figure im trying to do this is on is the retro ben reilly spiderman which has a lightish blue on the arms down to the legs, and red from the torso to the head. Any tips help thank you🤠
I'm trying to custom paint transformers generations armada starscream into a blue color, I attempted to use a dark blue acrylic paint on the plane head and his left leg it didnt do to well is there a preparation I should use to make it go on, the paint was coming off as being a shade of black my guess is because the plastic underneath was black plastic how should I get around that
Thank you so much for this!! I just want to paint some marvel legends shins/boots black. Do I need primer or just many coats of blk acrylic paint? Also, do I need to apply a sealant afterwards? Thanks again!!
What’s a good paint for the more flexible plastics. Like the plastics they use for the belts, bandoliers and such. I have had projects that no matter what paint I use they rather stay sticky or the paint just doesn’t dry or stick. Even after days of drying?
Right now I use apple barrel and it's good for figures that are made from scratch or with a good wooden artist mannequin but I'm trying to switch to citadel paints
Thanks for the infornative vid!What brand and color do you recommend to paint on all white figure?Painting white sucks but has to be done. I would really appreciate your response.
This is one of my favorite videos, very thorough in my opinion. I’m new to the painting my action figure scene. I recently painted my first action figure and it came out OK. But I have a question for you Kimota. What about if ur not painting the whole figure, but just adding accents and small details. Like the figure I painted, I was only adding small details to the overall figure, so my question is better asked as how do I do the primer if I’m not painting the whole figure?
No. You don’t need to primer the whole figure. But! But I would primer that section. They make brush on primers for small areas like that. Small little jars like other paint. Like Citadel calls theirs Imperial Primer. You just take a paint brush and cover that small section first. Then paint over it. Primer’s job is to make paint adhere better. I’d use it on any section I’m painting. It’s a good tool
What do you recommend for touching up figure paint? I got a knock off Mafex Spider-Man, and I've been able to find him to to a point I'm happy with, but noticed the paints been slowly chipping off. Any suggestions to match, paint, and make sure it doesn't keep chipping?
I was lucky I went to my local hobby lobby and The department head of the model section was very helpful in touch ups on my restore of vintage star wars figures. I would recommend you try these stores or similar in your area. For me testers and model color worked the best had to mix colors. It was hard and time consuming but I'm happy with the results.
Tried to use alclad black primer on a 12" Mandalorian figure, first time airbrushing and wanted to use black clear then dark chrome on it. Anyway the primer dried on my airbrush before I could do any of that, along other paint accidents staining my furniture. This is a stupid question, but am I supposed to drain and clean the airbrush after every single light layer of paint to prevent clogging? That sounds like a ton of cleaning.
Great Video. I am new to all of this but I had the idea of somehow trying to make a copy of the Super Powers Batman figure. I always loved that figure and it's original articulation but hated the mechanisms. Just wanted that as a simple figure without the dreaded mechanism. Is this even possible to accomplish? I'm sorry if you've already addressed this somewhere else but as I said I am new to this. So if you or anyone can point me in the right direction for some information on how to go about doing this, I would be greatly appreciated it. Thank you
As a kid i painted my venom mac gargan with nail paints and it turned out pretty cool still @ this day it's color still hasn't rubbed off it's always good to try new techniques like you mentioned LMAO btw "craft smart" is the worst
How well do the citadel paints mix? cause I'm used to the apple barrel paints cause Im used to painting Lego Minifigs and for those you really don't need anything fancy and I just got into customizing marvel legends figures and I was painting a custom figure and it scrapped off so easily so I wanted to use something that's strong and could mix
Great video! Tons of great tips on what to do and not do. Very helpful on what types to choose from bc most people starting out have the same beginners problem. They're always unsure what types of paints to use and end up ruining their projects. Just try to stay away from the "um" in your speech. Not being funny or rude, just helps with presentation.
I only ever paint my gundam model figures. I am really using tamiya everything. But they work great for me. I haven’t had any problems for anything yet.
i know this is old but can you use acetone to take off the factory finish? its the same method i use to customize sneakers. it helps the paint adhere to the shoe.
Any advice on white paint. I keep running into an immediate yellowing issue. I'm using Citadel and Model Masters (gloss). The gloss worked fine on a Venom I'm working on but on a cast head both the gloss (MM) & the flat Citadel yellowed quickly. Any advice?
Just subbed, Question: Have you taken apart a Mattel Secret Wars figure? I cant find info on how they are constructed and i don't have one in hand yet.. Will the Boil and Pop method work? Thx.
Any suggestions for the metalic Finnish on my Blitzway Voltron? I play with it alot and take photos so much I'm starting to wear the paint in certain areas. Thanks
I have a spin master harley quinn 12 inch figure that I want to turn into a game character, but I don't know if I should take her apart or if it's possible.
What if i just want to give a matte finish to the figures (like figma, neca) instead of the gloss from hasbro, should i just apply a layer of spray paint? Thanks
Bought a book once on how to make your own action figure from scratch. It avoids the leg articulation entirely so is kind of a ripoff. However it mentions that the paint that action figure manufacturers use is cel vinyl, and that's the best one to use on customs too for its durability. But I haven't found anybody that uses it on their figures. Seems to be pretty rare. I'd like to know how to use it to fix my old Thundercats toys.
Hello, what type of paint would you recommend for painting pvc figures? I found a Digimon bank from my childhood and I'm trying to restore the color, it's 95% white and as it stands right now it's super muddy looking from whoever owned it before me. As far as I can tell it's pvc material with no finish. I would prefer to brush paint over spray paint if possible, I've been recommended posca pens and testors, but I hated the result I got from the small areas I painted :c
Hey, how flexible are these paints? Which ones stay on the bendable parts of the figure best? I'm planning to paint a BAF kit I just got, and some of the parts on this thing are super bendy. I don't want anything flaking off after a few poses. I have the same question for clear top coats as well. Thanks in advance for the response.
Are you talking about the joints? They all need to be sanded down so that there’s no contact that can rub off paint. Then you paint it. If you’re talking about a bendy Figure then you’re going to have to mix the paint with something else to get it to adhere
Is dupli color good for spraying on figure faces ? Or is it too thick? Also after I sand and prep a figure and give one coat of paint it's easily removable . Should I add 2 or 3 coats of paint?
Fantastic video! I have so many follow up questions but for now i just have one that might sound dumb: what do you use to thin your paints, paint thinner?
@@KimotaCustoms thank you. I'll continue to look around for videos on pre-sanding, sculpting, dremeling, & other techniques. I haven't customized in many years & i am amazed how much guys like you & others have elevated the game.
I was having trouble seeing the Dupli-color can you held up. Does the can actual have the word "primer" on it? Would you kindly let me know the model number on the can so i can get/order that exact kind? So appreciated! What grade of sandpaper do you use when prepping a figure after you wash it?
This is very informative. Thank you, Im planning to repaint my marvel legends ironman mark 1 suit. Can I have a little advise? This is the first time I'm gonna paint a figure. Thank you
