A clockmaker! That's an interesting job, very skilled. I started my career as an engineer, turning, milling, grinding etc. I would imagine the workings of a clock have to be very precise and perhaps small depending on what size clocks you make.
Great video. I've been scratching my head about inner A panels for a while for my pickup. Very little on this that I can find on you tube. This helped.
Thank you, it was much easier from an editing point of view to talk as you go along. Hopefully more details are also captured. This video seems to be doing better so perhaps I'll do them this way from now on. Thanks for the support 👍
Hi Ben, nice job that. Many years ago I removed a door skin from a mk1 mustang, repaired it and 're-fitted it ! Seeing this brings back a lot of memories, thanks.
Thank you. Never worked on a Mustang, are they well built? Don't see many American cars here. I did do some work on a Ford F100 pickup, think it was 1970s. Was nice to work on and pretty cool.
Well I am in the uk, but I've worked on all sorts of things (cars commercials and military!) They are well built, thick metal hence being able to fold a door skin back!
Thanks, I used to do that but it's not a good way of doing it. Rust in between panel overlaps causes porous welds, heat distortion is much worse and you can't keep a uniform/straight edge very easily. It takes longer to do it the way I demonstrated, the only way to better it is to make a complete new skin. No doubt some people would take the new skin option but that's coach building rather than repair work.
I always thought you adjusted the door by lining it up with the solid quarter panel. Thats why the front fenders and core support have shims for adjusting the front door gap.
That's correct, in this case removing a shim could have helped the situation slightly except there weren't any shims behind the hinges to remove. No adjustment was possible.
@@bensclassicbodywork I didn't say anything about shims on the door hinges. Read again and think about the front of the frame being lower than it should be.
@@tires2burn oh ok, are you talking about adjusting the height of the A pillar ? This is a Monocoque chassis, no shims to adjust anything like you might have on a vehicle with a separate chassis.
@@tires2burn It would be the right decision to move the 'A' pillar upwards and shim the top door hinge to bring the door down at the back. That would be the optimum way of fixing the car but as you might well know a very large amount of work. I haven't done much with separate chassis vehicles, most I have are monocoque. I did do a morris minor convertible where I had to move the 'A' pillar up, that was a big job and I didn't get it where I wanted it. Nightmare in the end.
Thanks. Will do, Yes it's important to check there aren't any pin holes in the welds, I do this by shinning a torch from the inside with the workshop lights off. If no pin holes are found then I will try to sand any sharp edges on the inside and paint. Lastly cavity wax the door. Some people apply sealant to the back of the weld instead of checking for pin holes. If there aren't any holes you don't need sealant.
Hi, the window glass from the A60 doors won't fit but we have the glass for the Hearse which is modified glass to fit. Will definitely check that the Hearse window glass fits and operates freely before painting.
Great work but why not just repair the original door, the new old stock doors never fit well on Farinas. I was told the reason they are surplus doors is because they didnt fit when new they just bolted another door on when on the production line
Interesting. 👍 The owner bought the new doors thinking that would save time. What he didn't realise is the hearse has a different roof, then the gaps also needed to be modified. He might have been better off fixing the old doors as you suggested but they didn't fit well either.
