Yeehaaaa, the most funniest intro I´ve erver seen opn a carcannel!!!🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂 And you give to us another very interesting look to do things on a way, I haven´t known! Thank you again!🤩
Ah good old series landrovers, restored a few of them now. I made a mistake on the first time I worked on one. Welded a new A post in the wrong place then tried to correct it by modifying something else. The door alignment was never great but the owner wasn't super fussy. The same landrover came back to me 12 years later with more welding. I took the opportunity to fix that door alignment problem. The landrover has just completed a journey from the uk to turkey and back. They are braver than me that's for sure.
Thank you. There is more info in this video when I did the other side. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WJdcBMy6dXw.html The only thing you have to do when bending that moulding is shrink the outer edges as you go. It will try and distort otherwise. Hope that helps.
Hi and thanks. The Alfa is a customers car. Never worked on one or driven one before. Quite like to drive one, I bet they are enjoyable. Quite like it.
Great videos Ben and very informative, I'm currently doing a series 2 spider in a similar condition and just wondered what thickness sheet you use for your repair sections and mouldings etc.? Great job 👏
Thank you. The thickness for the moulding is 1mm as are the body repair panels. 1mm is what Alfa Romeo used for these parts and of course it's always best to replicate the original. I use a vernier calliper or micrometer for measuring the thickness. Sometimes if the part is very rusty it's difficult to measure but 1mm is the most common thickness for body panels, sills are usually 1.2-1.5mm thick on most vehicles. There are always exceptions though, like the Renault 5 I'm doing is less than 1mm on the sills and the Volvo Amazon I did used 2mm! How far have you got with your spider ?
I love watching your work, Ben. You’re really informative and entertaining But was this video meant to end quite so abruptly? “I made this moulding and … .”
Can I just add another reason for not blasting a car to your beginners 'don't do' list? As soon as it's blasted, you can't see where the rust was unless you have a hole, the thin bits are now invisible and can be a nightmare to find. Had this with a Sunbeam, customer had it blasted and brought it to me. Spent hours poking it with a scriber trying to find all the paper thin areas. Far better to repair the shell, spot blasting small areas as requiered, then blast the whole thing if you have to and paint.
Hi. I measure the gauge steel used on each car and it also depends what part of the car is being replaced. The majority of the Alfa is 1mm, sills and chassis rails are 1.5mm. This is fairly typical on most cars. The only time I've found steel thicker is on a Volvo Amazon which used 2mm thick steel on the sills and a 1920s rolls Royce that used 1.5mm on the wings.
Yep I worked at one place left they rang me about a year later I was there about 8 month left again when the work dropped off , got a call to look at a MGB GT convertible popped down the owner had restored it himself without using bracing the car was like a banana , said no thanks not have my name put with that thing and walked away , did the same with a VW Sharan I'd done a few right off's for this family it had been repaired by with a really bad reputation for poor workmanship got it in started to strip it , the second hand roof cut at the base of the windscreen pillars and just tack welded back , no not doing that told them to pick it up as it was scrap as far as I was concerned .
