You are the only person and I mean the ONLY person that has addressed this issue in sewing. I have tried and tried to find instruction on this all over the internet. Thank you so much.
My young daughter refuses to wear pants because they ride up her behind due to the fact that her bottom is low and fuller. This video has been so helpful for me to sew her pants that fit well. Thank you so very much!!
That was one of the most well explained lessons I’ve ever heard! Thank you so much for explaining it in such a clear, concise way… And without even laughing. I hope to learn more from you.
Fantastic! I agree with the comment below - have searched for much too long for the information you shared. Many, many thanks. What a blessing your info will be.
Happy to hear... A couple other things to think about is the back waist darts... if you have more than one on the back of each leg, that might be too much dart for your shape. Also, check out my latest Fit Tip Tuesday... The center balance line on your pants pattern may be too close to the CB edge of your back leg. See how this creates more space inside (too much for a flat butt).... Straighten the straight part of the cb seam helps this (taking off a like amount along the side seam). Hope this helps, Thanks for fitting along with me. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WH1egCJ3J_s.html
I cannot tell you how excited I was about this lesson! I have a low full butt. I have a 10 inch difference between my waist and hips which has to be pretty standard but my grainline ends up an inch from the centre back seam when I make the needed pattern adjustments. Got that sorted out thanks to you. But this lesson in managing the width for both low and full is gold and explains why I have had such trouble. In all the books either you are low and flat and full and high. Not me. Now to straight out the back seam but going to try a new muslin with all your wonderful teachings incorporated and see where I am. Thank you so very much.
Eureka! Thank you so much for this tip! I have extreme measurements between my hips/waist with a large butt, and can’t seem to adjust my pant pattern for it. Now I know it’s because of a prominent low butt!
Such great explanations! Thank you for showing us in such detail on how to make the adjustments for low and flat butt. Can you address in the future on how to make a low butt adjustment on a pants with a gusset?
I haven't played with that yet... My sense is that you can adjust the crotch to create a low but shape... then fine tune the shape and size of the gusset to fit the new shape of the crotch... the gusset adds onto the crotch, so if the crotch is shaped for a low behind, adding it to create more mobility and room should not cause an issue. Hope that helps for now.... Thanks for watching
Wow! I never understood the correction for my flat butt, im making some pants now. Will do the correction on them and let you know. Thank you for your time and have a great Thanks Giving with friend and family. ❤️👏🏻👏🏻😘
Thanks, Jen! I've finally watched this as I've been trying to fine tune a pants sloper. Since we've had our consultation last year I've lost a considerable amount of weight and. of course, what used to fit no longer does. We probably covered the low and flat butt combination alteration at the time, but I hadn't written anything down, so this is immensely helpful. Out of all my vast library of fitting books, only 1 other mentions low butt adjustments but is presented in a way that's not helpful, at least to me.
:) I have a flat butt/full butt pattern adjustment tutorial on my short list. You did purchase Private Pants Fitting with me... please email me and we'll set up another zoom fitting!
Thank you for this! I’ve been struggling to get my daughter fitted with the Love Notions Resolution Bottoms yoga version and have only recently learned that straightening the rise will take out the fullness. I’ve been playing with the crotch curve and scooping and/or extending the crotch point which helped, but not enough. I now know the pattern is drafted too full in the butt and will be straightening the rise. I can’t wait to get back to them once I finish some tops for her.
THANK YOU!!!! I've made several pair of pants and it´s always a challenge. My hip measurment is two sizes smaller than my waist. Although I made a flat butt adjustment it´s still to much fabric under my butt. Your video enlightened me I have a flat but and also a low butt. I made the Resolution joggers and I'm thrilled with the outcome after I made your adjustment for a low and flat butt. What a difference! I can´t thank you enough for this. Now I´m making a muslin from your stretch jeans pattern and I'm sure it will become the best jeans I ever made!
So happy this helped you! Another tip... you may want to blend between sizes... Go up one size from full hip to waist... That will make fitting easier when you work on your stretch jeans! Keep me posted if you need more help. Jen
These videos are super helpful as I'm currently learning a tailored way of making pants. These important details are really what you need to know in order to get a great/perfect fit, so thank you for sharing your knowledge with us!
Thank you for another great explanation! I'm trying to get back to fitting refinements on your shorts pattern from last summer. I have the tetrad (I had to look up the word for four-in-one) of low butt, flat butt, tummy roll at high hip, and large inner thighs. This video is a great explanation of a big part of my puzzle. The final piece is that once I get the muslin to fit well across my hips, crotch, and thighs - then, where do I place the waistband? On my one complete pair of pants from 2021 (your stretch jeans class), the pants were perfect until I put the waistband on too high. I know this is just a bit of trial and error, but I have to watch that more carefully next time.
Hi Sally... So sorry for the very delayed response. If the jean waistline is too high, pleat out the excess length around your full hip all the way around through the zipper seam allowance and the back legs. This will pull everything down so you can add the waistband. In the back, the back yoke should be positioned in the small of your back. Use that as a guide to determine how much you need to lower the back rise. Let me know if this makes sense. Thanks Jen
Lots of good info I will need to watch several times to be sure understand. Wish you would name the drawings. Flat butt, low flat butt, low but full butt , and do this but don't do that. Read and blue marks all over. By the time I have labeled my drawing you are off and running. No criticism of you it is my old ears and easy to forget where I am brain. Thank you, I have both low and very flat butt (just don't know where it went.) Looking forward to more in this series.
Thank you for the suggestion to label the different pattern shapes...I will do that in the future! Please keep me posted if I can help! Thanks for watching.
Jen, I have been trying to get the back of my pants looking nice for so long!! I have done fisheye darts and I can't tell you how many crotch adjustments I have done over the years, but I can never quite get the back to look better. I now know from your video that I have a low butt and quite possibly a flat butt as well......PLUS I have thin thighs compared to my wide hips. Do you have any videos on thin thighs/wide hips? I am a size 14 in hips but size 10 in thighs which automatically gives me an issue with fabric pooling at the back of the thigh. I find your videos so easy to understand and so common sense. Thank you!!
Hi Vicki, Hummm... I'm seeing a short crotch extension to keep the upper thigh measurement from getting too big... What is your waistline measurement compared to your full hips? If it's significantly smaller than your full hip... most of your shaping is going to come from angling the straight part of the CB crotch seam and curving out the side seam at your full hip... Let me know if this helps!
@@JSternDesigns Hi again Jen, and Happy New Year! Thank you so much for getting back to me. My waist is 36", my high hip is 45" and low hip is 43. Do you have a video on the adjstment that you suggested to me? Thank you so much for your help.
Thanks so much l! I have a low butt, yet it is very round. I can not get people to understand that!! It means if I take measurement to buy pants they are always too big because the volume is in the wrong place!!
This is helpful, but I'm confused about one thing. It appears you're using the cutline for your scoop, but you're using the seamline as the guide to scoop under. Then the scoop is the cut line?
Sorry about the confusion... When you scoop the crotch, you are sewing deeper into the pants from the original stitching line. The amount you scooped it the space between the original row of stitching to the scooped stitching. The easiest way to take off the amount you scooped is to trim if off the edge of the pattern. (The seam allowance are still there after you trim away the scooped amount!) Let me know if this helps! Thanks Jen
@@JSternDesigns Thanks for your follow up. I've watched the video again and it still seems like you're using the red cutting line to scoop and the new red cutting line then extends all the way down past the original crotch blue seam level. The other resources I've seen use the cutting line to scoop below the original cutting line, rather than scooping below the original crotch seam level. I feel I'm still missing something.
You can start with that... Then you may need to add a little bit to the back crotch wedge so you have room to sit down. Or you can purchase my Yoga Pants Pattern :) jsterndesigns.com/product/easy-fit-and-sew-yoga-pants-downloadable-pdf/
You can scoop down from the original seam for a low butt... and you can take in the inseams to shorten the back crotch point to help a flat butt. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
Would you mind telling me what the tells are that you need the low butt adjustment. I always get a wedgie but I'm not sure if I need to scoop the curve lower or just extend the back crotch Point.
If you see diagonal wrinkles across the side seam pointing downward toward the back that means you have too much vertical fabric on the back leg... Many times, if you have a low butt, the crotch curve is too high, scooping lowers it and picks up that excess vertical length. If the fabric on the back leg is snug and it looks like it's pulling or resting on your back leg, then extending crotch points will help. If you already have enough ease in the upper thigh, adding to the crotch points will only add more ease where you don't need it.... Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me.
The best way to see if you have a low butt is to use a piece of elastic and wrap it around your full hip a the level where your front crotch curved in. Then look at yourself in the mirror from the side view. If the curve of your butt is hanging significantly lower than this elastic, you have a low butt! It's really about where you curve in - in the front vs the back. Hope this helps!
Thanks Jen. I’ve NEVER had success with pants. It has now become a phobia. Commercial patterns have never worked. I’m so desperate to overcome this that I’m even willing to customize my own patterns. I don’t know where to start. Watching all these RU-vid videos has inspired me to give it another try. Can you give me advice on this?
Thanks Jen. Great info. Do you have a demo for what the fabric/fit does in these scenarios? It's very hard to interrupt fit problems. My pants sort of cup my bottom and I can't figure out how to fix it. Happy Thanksgiving!
ooh... I see a demo for fabric/fit coming in the near future! ... & if the fabric is not hanging under your butt... it could be that you don't have enough length in the crotch wedges (causing it to pull against you) or you don't have enough vertical length (causing it to pull up on you)... does that help?
@@renak1565 I haven't tried it. Got too discouraged and had a lot going on. The top down center out method looks very promising. I'll try that with my next try.
Every time I scoop the crotch it throws my pant leg balance off - they start “lifting” at the inseam and are comparatively longer at the outseam. What am I doing wrong?
Scooping across the inseam can make your inseam too short :) Here's a tutorial showing how to fix that ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lrNg7k2QUH8.html I've also developed my fitting process since I published this video. I'm working with a single leg muslin and separate waistband to balance the front/back leg I learned the basic steps of working with a single leg muslin from R. Collins You can find her Threads article in issue #218... During this process the Crotch Curve in the front can be too low while the back crotch is in position (because the shape of the crotch curve is not agreeing with your shape). Here's a tutorial showing how to lift the front crotch curve so you don't have to scoop the back crotch curve. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WflHfYM3jcs.html Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Are you talking about the waist coming to a point at the CB seam... Or are you talking about the crotch points creating a point at the inseam intersection?
Do you have any idea how I can make my bathing suit fit better. I have lost weight and the back butt area is loose. Could I take up the crutch to make it shorter so it's not baggy?
Congratulations! That's a tricky one... you can take in the CB seam if there is one ...and you can take in the side seams down lower to pull out some of the fabric. ...Not an expert with fitting bathing suits, but that's what I would try! Thanks for watching
Thank you!!! I've been hunting, studying, trying, for YEARS and have never seen a flat AND low butt alteration together. It's always either/or and they've only addressed the curve. I've never seen a follow through for the center back seam and *then* also what to do with the side. I'm excited to try it! Is there a tip or shortcut on guessing how much to dip the crotch curve down? Like when I look in the mirror, it looks like there's at least a good 4" difference between where my pubis is and where the bottom of my bottom is. I realize some of that is the normal body shape, but how do you guess how much extra the bottom dips down? Where do I start? And I'd also like to see the different pants problems in fabric. Lately, and it could be because of the alterations I've been trying with the back, I've been having trouble with the front crotch. There'd be so much fabric in the front crotch curve area you could move a family of 10 in there! Thank you again for all you do! I love your channel.
You're welcome! If you have a low butt... start by digging out the back of the back crotch curve so it's lower than the tip of the crotch by about 1/2"... you can fine tune the fit by scooping down deeper if you need to when you try on your fit muslin. The other thing is (and I should have mentioned this in the video...) The front crotch curve may need to be straightened out so that it's reaching down toward the back crotch point (instead of curving and joining on the horizontal... .Let me know if this makes sense (This may help with the fit of the front)
@@JSternDesigns Thanks! I haven't had the chance to try it yet. It might be a week or two still,. It's just that time of year, but I'm excited to give it a go!
I prefer to let my fit muslin tell me this. If you work with a single leg muslin and a separate fit waistband to start the process, you can balance the front/back leg to get the back crotch in the right spot... Then you can raise the front crotch curve to bring it up. This will create a "low butt" shape. Check out this tutorial. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WflHfYM3jcs.html Thanks for fitting along with me, I hope this helps!
Judging by the information available on the net and RU-vid, I must be the only woman on the planet with a HIGH butt! My pelvis is tilted forward, causing a swayback and raising the buttocks significantly above the crotch line. In ready-to-wear pants I always end up with a pocket of empty fabric beneath each butt cheek. This is the main reason I want to make my own pants. I haven't been able to find out, though, how to adjust my pant sloper to get a decent fit.
You do have a shape that is less common. I created a pants sloper with three different crotch shapes... One for a low butt, one for an average butt... and one for a high butt. Here's a link to the tutorial sharing details about these (including how these three different patterns fit me...It's very clear which shape I am based on how these three patterns fit me!)... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MGzNg6SrCuQ.htmlsi=BTK2BZ2wGThblQCq For your sway back and forward tilted waistline, I have good news. Adjusting your pattern for a tilted waist also lengthens the CB seam to make more length for a sway back.. that will customize your pattern pieces to agree with your shape! Here's a tutorial for titled waist: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QvhocHFRPGU.html and for a sway back: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Bk-ni_ylIic.html Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
I have adjusted my pattern for a low prominent butt, but I still need just a little more back crotch length. Could I also do the adjustment where you slide the pattern to the side (Adjust crotch for a prominent butt-video) to add a little more room?
Yes you can... especially if you already have enough ease on the upper thigh. Sliding the top of the pattern over adds more length to the crotch without adding ease to the leg. Just keep an eye on the position of the vertical grainline... when you reestablish the grainline by extending it up from below the adjustment, make sure it's not getting too close to the CB seam!
