There is a calibration mode for this soldering iron: 1) power it on, let it turn solid green 2.a) to reduce the temperature press and hold power until it turn solid red 2.b) to increase the temperature press and hold power until it turn blinking green 3) short press power to increase or decrease the temperature (3 clicks around 10 degrees change) 4) to end the calibration press and hold power button until it turns solid green
Ah, super cool! I figured it must have but no documentation to find something like this out. How did you figure out this sequence, do you have a similar iron that had this procedure in the instructions? I'm sure they reuse the control hardware... Cheers!
For a second, I thought BigClive had taken some female hormone tablets. I watched his video on this same iron just the other day and not seen this channel before. Thanks YTA
That’s a great little hack, definitely going to do this to mine with a pot somewhere for variable temp control. A hack for a temp readout where the useless tray sits would be a fantastic addition, but sadly, I wouldn’t have a clue how to do it!
@@IPenkovBG Yeah but you need a micro with ADC to measure the resistance, and then a display output, and arduino could do it but would be too much work...
Too bad youtube didn't suggest this video to me at the time, because I returned mine for lack of temperature control. I would've kept it had I seen your video on how to hack it. Well done sir!
That's too bad, I really like using the iron, and sometimes it's just easier to use than my tabletop one. Plenty of power, especially for small SMD stuff, and the portability, and heats up in less than 5s. If you can still find one I recommend getting it!
I mounted the potentiometer (regular, not like yours) on the case and put knob over it so I can have control all the time. The pot value is 100 ohms and in parallel there is 220 ohms resistor instead of the 0 ohm value resistor that was previously mounted
For such portable thing I would better use a fixed resistor. The trimmers are notorious for becoming unstable after they age, mainly when connected as a variable resistor and not as a variable divider (the moving contact resistance is the usual culprit). And for the temperature I do not like to go above 320degC. For a beefier joints it is better to have beefier tips for the iron. Or have there a switch selecting either 300degC for a regular soldering and then maybe about 350degC boost for short time.
Do you mean this specific form factor? Electrically the use as a rheostat or variable resistor shouldn't make much of a difference though, as in both cases current flows through the moving contact, as long as the current is small. In this case around 10mA flow through the variable resistance, which is not vanishingly small but shouldn't be a problem. Multimeters often use rheostats for calibration, and those last a very long time. I doubt this will be a failure point within this devices lifetime. Much more likely is the heater coil failing, which is pretty much irreplaceable (I couldn't find any 19V 900M style replacements). Theoretically though you are right that for maximum reliability a fixed resistor would be best! Cheers.
I just bought one today. It is PLSA20-Li B2. The iron holder is a separate piece, have to click on its place on the base but finally nearly the same shape as A1. The board inside is unfortunately not the same, this is a mini board, no place for a potentiometer. The calibration mode with power button also not working. I am sad... 😬
Yes, the calibration with the button not working, so this is garbage. The tip is oxidizing very fast, 480 C, is to much. And I also bought a worklight in this 20V sistem, and is not working with older A1 version 20v batteries. On the package is mentioned with very small letters, they recommend using new version battery, but is just a simple led light. I never gonna buy another garbage from parkside. Too many versions of the products, no consistency, they just use any cheap component available at the time.
@@StepperByStepper Pretty much the first link off amazon, just search rst191 or www.amazon.de/dp/B081H5ZGD2/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_93RB9VRQMGC0J3SE23QA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@StepperByStepper You are mistaken, it was just the product link I directly copied from Amazon, I don't even know how to make referral links 'for profit', just trying to help, as it is where I bought it from... Ali is certainly the cheaper place that's for sure.
Zapne sa, čaká, kým sa rozsvieti zelená LED. Tlačidlo podržte, kým sa nerozsvieti načerveno - toto je režim zníženia teploty. Potom sa krátkymi postupnými stlačeniami max. teplotu o 3-4 stupne na kliknutie.
I'm definitely putting button on the iron the cheapskates 😅😅 Bro you can change temp using the button red light heat up green light heat down ..... See if you can modify a digital temp control wit PTC off eBay but it only goes up to 99 and 10k PTC too
on the b2 model on the yellow cable i put a resistor 0-100 ohm but it didnt do anything ...what if i put between the black or the red wire going to the iron ?? any ideas ??
I bought one didnt heat up, Lidl replaced it , same thing waiting for the 3rd one. The led looks to be on a timer, since it would blink fast, change to green and the tip was cold to the touch.
Excellent hack! To deepen the hack, do you think it is possible to modify the firmware if it is part of your knowledge ? What is the MCU reference? Thank you !
That would be difficult. I think the MCU was unmarked, and it most certainly is a OTP (one time programmable) chip, so no way to modify the code, you'd have to replace and program a fresh chip. That is if it is even possible to dump the code from the chip, although I doubt there is too much security/encryption there. Even so, dumping would only give you the machine code, that you'd have to try and disassemble into 'readable' code. It isn't like there is readable software/code running on the chip, its all binary on there. It's probably much faster to rewrite your own code to run the iron than trying to reverse engineer the existing code. Certainly not worth the effort in this case as a simple hardware mod works well.
@@GadgetEngineering Yes, you are certainly right about the difficulties in translating machine code into readable code except for educational purposes but why did they provide a slot for a programming connector? Does the MCU also control the battery charge?
@@alarm4007 I think the MCU is looking at the battery voltage to do the low voltage shutoff, as all Parkside 20V batteries have no MOSFETs in the battery itself, so it has to be the tool that disconnects on low voltage. As far as the MCU pins, maybe they programmed then on the boards, and not directly factory programming the loose chips?
The handpiece itself is still crap. Better than the old AC series though? Yeah, checked out the original video, they finally went with "standard" tips. That is good.
Is it possible to power this from makita or another 18 or 20 volts battery. I tried from makita it didn't work. Red and then green light flashing on charging station?
Hi there! Tried contact you but seems it is impossible. Anyone did teardown of parkside soldering station pls 48 d2? Would like to hear a bit more deep knowledge than sea level .) if no one did it, I can send one to You, sealed box. Was woundering, ability to mod it to increase watts to be more faster than in stock, at max op takes about 5 or even 7 minutes to heat up
@@craigemmott4976 Seems B2 is new version, it had no place for potentiometer on circuit board, but PTC is same so 25 ohm resistor need to be connected in series with PTC line. I made modification for B2 and it works.
