Having just completed this job I'd like to add a few things: 1. You don't have to buy their expensive spring compressor. I'm not sure if you can now anyway, RIP BavAuto. I got an eBay one with a double-hook on one end and a single on the other (with wingnut-tightened retention hooks for safety). To compress the spring sufficiently, I had to secure the double-hooks on the spring plate, but it works. I will say it could be a bit tight working around those hooks if you wanted to change your mounts too, but mine were fine so I didn't. I suppose you could undo the compressors to install the mount. 2. They flippantly recommend loosening the control arm and tension-strut bolts at the subframe. You might have to; I saw another video where a guy had trouble lowering his steering knuckle far enough til he did. No one specifies the torque in any video I've seen, but I have the Bentley manual for this car, which states 50 ft-lbs (74 with higher-grade bolts) THEN 90 degrees. That implies these might be torque-to-yield bolts, especially as the manual goes on to say always replace with new. I can't believe one would be expected to replace these bolts every time one is even loosened just to get the strut out...but I have also heard of dudes that just gutenteit and go. I gave mine the torque spec + 45 degrees and was scared to strain them further. If you're paranoid and you want to replace these, RealOEM to the rescue: the bolts are PN 31106763928, the control arm nut is PN 33326760668, and the tension-strut locking nut is PN 31106767496. This would be $25-30 on FCPEuro. Up to you. 3. I'd clarify the verbiage around how to achieve ride height. Ramps are ideal, but if you're using a jack, you probably DO want to lift the one corner off of the support on that side, if you can safety. In my garage, I had the front on two jack-stands and the rears holding the parking-brake on hard. I also measured ride height before and after jacking and raised the knuckle (with a wood-block between metals) by the disparity. By then I had actually raised it off the jack-stand on that side. This is I suppose because I actually gained a whole inch of ride height from this job. I actually don't know why, as I reused the same springs. At any rate, if you lift that corner off its support just a little, you know for a fact that the strut is supporting roughly its share of the weight. Don't worry, just take it slow. 4. For my fellow automotive dumbasses out there, notice that there is a LEFT and a RIGHT shock absorber, and they are different, and not interchangeable. Notice the stabilizer attachment bracket always faces the rear. Notice this before you get halfway into the job with one strut rebuilt with the wrong shock and now have to dig into the other side to continue. At least the coil springs are interchangeable! 5. Here he's installing those yellow Bilstein shocks. If you're installing the OEM Sachs like me (either is fine...I've read Bilstein makes em a little stiffer so I guess it's up to whether you want more luxury or more sporty), some of these did not come with the auxiliary foam bumper. It looks like the struts he's replacing did; mine did not but IMO they should have. They're there to protect the shock in case you bottom-out your suspension, which is probably what caused mine to leak in the first place. I would highly recommend adding the bumper PN 31336771352 and the boot PN 31331094749. The bumper also mates with the boot and helps keep the shaft covered. This does not apply to these particular Bilstein shocks because those contain their protective bumper internally, plus they come with boots fitted.
Thanks for your videos,i always learn how to do this kind of work for my e90,I really appreciate your channel, mechanic was asking $90 for each side job labor and I decided to give me a chance by following your instructions and i did the job in 45 minutes for each side,thank you very much sir and god bless you always.
this is the best ( yes i mean this ) 'how to' car fix video i have ever seen. great explanation with excellent camera angles and some extra help for the 'maybe this might happen' scenarios. thank you very much and keep up the great work.
Having done this a couple of times I can say that I find it much easier to get the bottom of the strut out of the steering knuckle completely, drop the the suspension down and then remove the top of the strut from the car. There is a lot more room to do it that way then to try to tilt the strut out from under the fender. You also don't have to loosen any of the suspension arms if you do it that way
@@tristancloud9687 sorry, no need to do it right now, doing water pump though. Just loosen the pinch bolts and tap that arm down off the strut. Maybe spray some penetrating oil in tbere. Then take the top bolts off last. Taking the top off first I had a harder time getting the suspension to go down far enough to clear the fender without risk of scratching.
Really great video and also real good pricing. I recently bought all 4 shocks from you guys for my e90. I got the Bilsteing HD witch ended up costing me a couple hundred less than it would of at autozone or advance. I got one front and two rear within a week and the other front was on back order witch it has shiped already. I plan on installing them this weekend.
Thanks for the video! I have a 2013 bmw x5 xdrive 35i with active suspension. Can I replace the struts with ones without active suspension? Thanks for your help!
The only thing I suggest reusing is the spring. I always replace the mount and all the rubber spring seats. The rubber seats are usually trashed when you remove the spring.
You don't need to take half of this apart. Undo the anti roll bar link, disconnect the ABS sensor, disconnect the steering tie rod, undo the top 13 mm nuts and push the suspension down enough to pull the top of the strut out from under the arch. Then you can remove the hub to strut clamp nut/bolt and pull the strut out. Takes about 30 minutes but I recommend adding some masking tape to the front wing arch edge and an old towel over the top of the strut.
You dont even need to do that. Disconnect sensors, brake hose from bracket, and swaybar link. Undo the pinch bolt. use a rubber mallet/deadblow hammer to hit the knuckle off the strut, undo the 3 nuts at the top and pull the strut out. Then you don't have to worry about hitting the top of the strut on anything.
@@MrJimbrockman You can loosen the control arm bolts so you're not fighting against the bushings to get the knuckle off, but you don't need to. Should be enough travel to get the knuckle off. At least there was on my 2011 335xi when I installed my coilover kit.
This car is sooooo clean compared to mine which is rusty and caked in mud. Still 153k on the original springs and dampers isn’t bad. Spring broke if you’re wondering….😂
Hello! Very nice videos. I have a couple of questions and I would be thankful if you could answere it. 1. I have E91 318i and I couldn't last lower the hub enough so that I can take the arm out. I tired to push down but it didn't work somehow. 2. What would if I tight the pushing again but not exactly on the right high?
Hello - great video! Nice and up close which really helps me wrap my head around it. I have a question though... the car in the video is RWD. For the front end... is there anything else that needs to be done when performing this procedure on an XI AWD 335 e90? I'm about to tackle this today and for some reason thought there were more steps involved due to the drivetrain up front. Hope someone sees this today! :L)
@@bavarianautosport I just did this yesterday on my 2006 330xi. There were some differences worth mentioning. First, I did not have to remove the inner fender liner to get at the front stabilizer bushing. It is not there on my car. There is one stabilizer just behind the steering rack and a second on towards the rear. Both have through bolts so you need to hold one side with a wrench while loosening the the other side. Space is at a premium but it can be done. Next, the clip that holds the headlight adjuster cannot be released in the manner shown. You have to remove the nut (10mm) on the lower connection point. Then the clip opens up like a little hinge. Spray it with some penetrating oil first to minimize the chance or breaking it. Mine came off quite easily. I lucked out on the driver's side. As soon as I removed the pinch bolt the steering knuckle basically fell off the shock tube. Not so much on the passenger side. It was really stuck in there. On that one I kept spraying the sleeve where the shock fits with penetrating oil. And had to pound the knuckle the get the shock free. After some time it started to move and once the locating studs were clear of the slot I was able to twist it out. Not fun! And finally, on reinstall I could not get the shock to slide in and seat before rotating the top into place as shown in the video. I found a different (and maybe better way). First I did a thorough cleaning of the sleeve where the base of the shock sits. I used emery cloth and wiped all the debris out. Then I coated the inner surface of the sleeve with a thin coat of silicone lubricant. (Sil-Glyde is what I used) I put the upper part into the shock tower and attached the top 3 nuts by hand. Then I manipulated the steering knuckle and the shock to get the shock base into the sleeve. I then put a jack under the control arm and had a helper jack slowly while I guided the shock locating studs into the slot. Once both studs were in the slot I just kept on using the jack to raise everything until the shock seated itself. Then put the pinch bolt back in. Hope this helps someone!
BavAuto, you're awesome. I have a 2002 325xi. It vibrates at constant speed and varying speed from 40 mph up to 80 mph. At 80, it smooths out, but returns if you go any faster. Therefore this vibration is harmonic. The vehicle does NOT shudder under acceleration. I have not looked at the carrier bearing for the rear drive shaft or the flex joint. What would you recommend to start diagnosing? I HAVE DONE: replaced control arms, replaced transfer case mount, replaced tie rod inner and outer, new-ish tires, balanced, rotated frequently, and 2 separate alignments. The other symptom (not sure if related to vibration) is the car pulls to the right a bit. It pulls more than it should given the fact that it is aligned, even when driving on a sloped road for water run-off. Please advise thoughts.
Thank you for this excellent video. I am thinking of buying my first cordless impact drill. I would appreciate if you could kindly suggest to me what power drill I would need to remove, for example, the pinch bolt securing the strut to the hub. Would a 18V cordless machine be enough or do I need to go higher? I also had in mind a battery impact that is capable of removing subframe bolts.
Thanks for letting us know. Do you mean the blog article link at the top of the description? This works when i try it. If this is the link you mean, I'll have our team take a look at it.
hi there! i have a technical question about front compression absorbers(dampers) . in e91/e88 is a 85mm damper similiar to e90 80mm cone type damper but some of companies like monroe/KYB (PK012-910084KYB) use old style shape dampers from e46 85mm in their web cat to use in e91/88 Is any difference to use diffrent shape of dampers in front strut e91/e88 vehicles? Cone damper for me is not as strong like old style ones Im right?
Hi Otto and thank you so much for those amazing videos! I followed your instructions, all went well but after an hour driving I got the yellow brake light and a traction control off light. What could be the cause? I will appreciate your guidance.
Started this project and ended up in a bad spot. What is the process for an xi? I'm having issues with the CV joint and not able to get the strut back in!
To Andreea Matta - We can't reply directly to your comment due to it coming from Google, not directly on youtube. To keep the video time shorter, we do not always film the re-installations, unless there are some points that really need to be addressed. just go back and watch the removal as many times as needed, to be able to formulate the "reverse procedure".
***** The KYBs will be the softest and the shortest life. The Konis and Bilsteins will last much longer and will have a more performance oriented ride.
Very nice video ! But - is it really needed to loosen the 2 bushings, dismount the caliper and disconnect the sensors ? Can't the shock be removed wiithout lowering the wheel so much ?
Otto, I bought the Koni FSD Set from you all and I'm confused to why I hear clunking noises after installation. I question the supplementals and what was to be used and exchanged by the instructions. It was much more hardware than stock. Can you tell me what you may think the clunking is and a breakdown on the hardware in order for the shocks and struts?
Does it sound like it's coming from the rear struts? If so, then I have the same problem. Koni FSDs all around less than 6 months ago, and there's a clunking almost bouncing sound happening. No change in ride or anything. Just a little strange
+MiSkateage Actually, I called and spoke with Gordon. I had a few notions of what was going wrong and he troubleshooted with me. It was surely coming from the front. I had the clunking, also. As I assumed, it had something to do with too much play in the assembly. I suggest you check your set up. Hopefully you won't have to disassemble. Contact BAV. I knew my setup was tightened but had that issue. Check your bearings in the assembly and control arms. My issue was that my passenger assembly was not flush inside the knuckle. The metal tab was not completely all the way down. It was the smallest of a diff but that fixed everything. The was another trick he taught me just in case it was the issue, which is inexpensive/easy and worth doing. With the car on the ground, gain access to the top mount nut. The nut may be tight on the shaft but may not be tight on the bearing. They will have to give you the specs of the washers and instructions. I did both methods and hadn't heard a peep since
Hello BavAuto!! Question for you regarding my setup. What is the difference between the e82 with sport suspension and the e82 without sport suspension as far as the front struts go? I have looked through many sites with the OEM Bilstein offerings and it seems the two cannot be interchanged as far as compatibility goes but why? What is the difference between the two struts? Are the mounting brackets in different locations? I also know their is an M-Sport suspension offering for my car but I'm not even sure if that's the same as the sport suspension and if those can be interchanged as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Qustion just received my new front quick struts and the top mount rocks back and forth slightly i double checked to top nut and it was tight is this normal ?
Hi, What is the procedure towards the end about tighten the control arm bolts? I don't have a ramp so how high do I have raise the jack on the control arm? Will this affect alignment?
On models that have bushed control arm pivot points .... where the mounting bolt goes through the middle of the rubber bushing ... you can't tighten the mounting bolt with the arm hanging. Tightening the bolt clamps the bushing in that position and then when the car is lowered, the bushing is "twisted" when at the static ride height. Therefore, we wait to tighten the through-bolt until the suspension is at ride height (on the ground). Ramps make this easy, but you can often do the final tightening by just reaching under the vehicle. As a last resort, if you have the vehicle on jack stands, you can carefully place your floor jack under the outer ball-joint or under the rotor hub and jack until the vehicle's weight just starts to lighten from the jack-stand .... then tighten the bolt. This procedure has obvious potential safety issues and we do not recommend it.
i saw in pelican guide that they where able to lower the strut with out loosing control arms, unless they did not mentioned, but is removing strut capable without using coil compresser or loosing the control arms maybe a pull on the strut may compress strut?
+monsieur420 - In most cases, when removing the front shock assembly on an E90 3-series model, the hub will not lower far enough to pull the shock out of the hub clamp. I suppose you could install the threaded-rod style spring compressors on the spring and this would shorten the assembly and MAYBE allow you to pull it out without loosening the control arm bushing bolts.
if you were to incorrectly connect the abs and brake sensor wires . would that cause you to get a yellow brake light and a traction control off light? (i am pretty sure i connected them correctly)
The connectors are different (down inside the plug housing), so you should not be able to connect them incorrectly. However, if they were crossed, this would cause a fault.
Hello! Do I need to move wheels right? I tried today change shocks with straight wheels, with no result, I could not pull shock from the fender. A steering tip does not move lower. Also I have applied spring compressor, the same - 1 cm did not enough.
Hi. I have a 2006 BMW 330XI AWD. When I do this job on my front struts. Do I have to remove the front halfshaft/axle nut and pull it out of the knuckle?
if anyone sees this let me tell you that you DO NOT need to remove the control arms I literally just did the arms last week and removed the struts without loosening the control arms yesterday
The E90/91/92/93 3-series models (such as your 2009 328i) do use a strut type front suspension. Keep in mind that the strut suspension design still uses a shock absorber. The shock absorber is still a shock absorber. the difference in a strut design is that the shock housing also serves as a stressed part of the articulated suspension ... as if it were also a control arm, in effect.
Ok I see, I just wanted to know what I needed to look for when it comes time to upgrade my suspension. So I'll be looking for struts for the front and shocks for the rear? Thanks again.
Samuel Fernandez - yes, but you can also just say shocks for front and rear ... and as long as the vehicle listing is correct, you'll get strut-type shocks for the front.
