That is true. I was not able to remove the bleeding screws ( 15:13 ) so I gave that up. The heater core hose was just too far away so I skipped that too. I expected the funnel fill tool to help bleed which I think it did.
those coolant screws on the S/C will eventually wear due to heat etc. the top of mine sheared off - I had to heat a screwdriver into the remaining part in order to remove it. ECS and others' sell aluminum bolts with gaskets and philps head compatible tops. Much better
😄 It will not work here. Some systems above the expansion tank have coolant running through them so some air pockets stay higher. You need tools like this.
@@ThatAfricanGuy really? I did this grandpa method on my A8 D4. Just checked whether hot air working or not. And stoped to squeeze untill radiator fan stopped in low engine temperature. I think I did wrong...?
@@jameswan670 You probably helped push some of the lower air pockets out but not the ones that are higher. Air in the system will kill components over time.
Hey I just changed my radiator and filled it back up with coolant and now I have a leak from the overflow hose that goes from the reservoir to the radiator it’s coming out of the radiator hose end and my tank is not overfilled I still haven’t bleed my system you know what can it be ? Audi a7 2012
dude, your process seems like a strange way to bleed the coolant system, why would you have to rev a engine to bleed a coolant system, is this right, quite weird and scary
In the owners manual of my Infiniti it tells you to rev the engine to 2500 rpm for 10 seconds then let off for another 10 seconds and repeat until it’s done
@@ThatAfricanGuy can you help me with this question please, I have fault code, system to Rich at Idle, bank 1 and 2… to give more context, I had just replaced my oil separator and thermostat, also, is it possible a loose fuel cap can cause this ?
@zakariasharhan8067 I am sorry for the late reply. I am not too sure to be honest. Can you scan for fault codes? This will point to the right direction.
