Part 2: Installing a Victron MultiPlus : Install, Earth & more | EP49 | Ford Transit Campervan Build 

That makes a lot of sense to me. I do on some tighter radius turns near terminations bend them first

Thank you. Part 3 In the works and hopefully should be ready next week. Still need to film a few more bits, trying to make it useful but not too boring as it mostly using the software. But still an important part of the over all install

@@MispronouncedAdventures What's happening with part 3? It's been over a year now! 😉

Thank you! Still got a little bit more filming to do on part 3 want to make sure I can get all the information I can in it. Yeah I was expecting the power light to turn on! Looking back I think why it wasn’t. Is because default settings for the inverter might have “search” mode enabled. Where the inverter is smart enough to check if there are any AC loads currently on the system. so its otherwise not needlessly turned on if there is anything to power.

Thank you

Thank you

Whilst it’s is pretty much what I did to get external to internal. But my cupboards cover the access in the internal rear pillar on the inside.

Glad you have found it useful Are you uk based? I can send you links to the consumer units

@@MispronouncedAdventures hi that would be awesome thanks! I’m in the Channel Islands so kinda Uk based lol We’re using your amazon links to buy a couple of bits which works perfectly :)

Hey, hope see you at the next show! It’s was my first time going! I put a large inline mega fuse 150a on the main pos cable

I’ve not personally tried a nespresso coffee machine on it, as long as it’s below the rated wattage of the inverter I see no reason for it to not work it. I use an induction stove and air fryer on it all the time

Low temperature cut off is a bit tricky but perfectly doable on the multiplus. However it’s not a true “low temperature cut off” setting, it’s more of a prevent charging option. Using a signal in foot, in some ways the same way I use the BMV relay and a signal. There is a “assistant” is the VE Config software called “two-signal BMS” The idea of it reuses some of multiplus wire ports ( temp port & aux port ) if it receives a signal it prevents discharge and the other receives a signal prevents charging. However I am yet to get it fully working myself

@@MispronouncedAdventures Nice videos, and nice guy also ;) So fast to reply, even on an old video! I have already installed almost the same setup, Ford transit MK8, victron 24/3000 multiplus 2, victron smart solar and smart orion for B2B. I am on the verge of configuring the multiplus 2, and I read a few comments about assistants on victron forum. Also, I plan to have a raspberry Pi with Venus OS connected to monitor and control. I need to investigate, as I want also some low temp protection on the LiFePO4 battery with 2 security level: one on the charger and a second one on the BMS itself as final guard.

Good question. it means that the same sockets can be both work through hook up / shore power and via the inverter with battery power.

I’m not for personally familiar with the RCBO unit . But from my understanding it’s pretty much a RCD & MCB combo unit right? 20A would of that would of been ok as long are you running 2.5mm cable. I’d have thought 20A would’ve above the 1.5mm amp rating

I _think_ (don’t quote me, just planning my own build) a double pole RCBO could be used alone to protect the incoming AC feed, it would provide both overcurrent and residual current protection as well as meeting isolation of supply requirements. As you say, would need to be sized for the lowest rated cable used between inverter and hookup point. Lookup table 4E1A for cable ratings.

The Multiplus is frankly brilliant unit, I have subsequently installed them in customer vehicles as well when doing electrical systems for Clients. If I was to do it again I would definitely go for the 3000 just to give me that extra bit of headroom. However size was the reason those larger ones were out of the question, I just wouldn’t be able to fit it in my cabinet

It’s definitely the recommended way by VictronEnergy to install these units in a isolated format. As for the 10 and not the 16amp MCB, for me personally I would never probably use it ( and that’s what the consumer unit came with if I had 16 then I would’ve been happy as well ). Even if the multiplus is charging the battery at charging at maximum and I’m running the induction stove at max. That probably wouldn’t exceed 10 amp. If I had installed a powerful electric heater then I would probably replace the 10 for a 16. As a few days ago I had my smaller electric heater, and was using a 2000 W heat gun and a few other things on. And I maxed out my preset 9.5amp ( set on the controller ) so than the multiplus also starts inverting as well to give the extra power required

@@MispronouncedAdventures Thank you for the speedy response. That’s absolutely great and exactly what I needed to hear.

No problem, glad I was of help

There are a number of popular UK campervan part websites, which cell consumer units for vans. I’m a little on the reluctant to say particular models because regulations change. For instance these onesies are plastic cases and current regs would require metal cases.

No problem at all with multiple charge sources but Best to make sure the charge settings, bulk, absorption, float are all the same. If I’m ever on hook up and the multiplus is charging, then the solar is also charging. And whilst driving, I have two different battery to bbattery chargers and the solar also all charging the

Thank you. RCBO would be a smaller unit but acquiring / ordering them separately was just easier for me to my hands on My B2B is the isolated version not the non-isolated. There so no common ground between starter battery and leisure battery. As both my circuits isolated from each other, there doesn’t seem to be a functional reason for me to connect the leisure systems DC neg to the vehicle chassis as I am not using it for a negative return like the van own electrical system. Unlike pre EURO 5&6 van without a Smart alternator, when a VSR / split charger relay was normally used for Chargjng the leisure battery ( if it was lead acid based and not lithium ) Additional that is why the AC isn’t linked via the DC bus back the chassis as in my case there isn’t a connect between the DC neg bus and the chassis. I thought I had also seen in the UK numerous times in different groups mentioned ( unsure if for practical or regulation reasons ) that a DC connection and a AC Earth bonding connection shouldn’t share the same point to the chassis. Charging wise. My bank is 3 x 130ah valance u27-12xp. Running in parallel, manufacture recommendations are a max continuous charge current 65A. So 70A across three would only be 23.3a each. The also use 18650 cells in 4 groups of 100 each

And yes. I do still need to do the correct terminal torque. one of the tools in lacking at the moment. But I do periodically check them

After your previous comments on videos regarding AC earthing and other parts I did research points you brought up. After all you spend the time to making them. So plenty of research as well chatting a Victron dealer and installer as well. Mainly as a prefer ( when doing anything ) to have an understanding or even if just basic understanding of why something is done or should be done, opposed just doing it because that how it’s always done, or just because some else does it that way.

My bad on the isolated DC I thought TR models were the non-isolated type. I don't usually use anything under 50A and mostly I mount dedicated alternators or twins. The DC ground and Earth ought to be linked, it'll prevent the solar array from climbing to uncomfortable voltages if you are in series up there. It's also because you have an inverter and having both mains and ELV in the same box means it's possible to put 230v on the battery terminals. At the end of the day it's about making it failsafe not about making it isolated. If it's isolated in a way that's impossible to fail dangerous then that's fine, or you can live with the risk without hurting anyone also fine. The inverter being LF has a lessened risk of the battery appearing on the neutral so the chassis is isolated across this. If the inverter was HF then one shorted FET could = world of pain across the PE-N path. If you continuity check the hab battery negative to chassis and it's OL in both polarities then you're scraping a pass...I expect you'll find capacitors there though. This is Gibbo's take (Smartgauge website...bit dated still useful); ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- " Assume the AC system is bonded to the hull but the DC system is not. Some equipment is connected to both systems. This sounds rare - in actual fact it isn't, dual voltage fridges, battery chargers and inverters are all connected to both systems. A fault in one of these items could cause AC mains to be presented to the DC side. If both systems are bonded to the hull, this will instantly cause the incoming fuses or circuit breakers to blow. If one of the systems is isolated from the hull this will not happen. The result will be that the DC system (which we all assume is safe to touch, and which usually has components with insulation rated for about 50 volts) will be sat at 230 volts with respect to the hull or the other electrical system. Clearly this is highly dangerous. " ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Regarding the DC and Earth not sharing the same point...well it has to somewhere when you think about it. Probably redundancy or when one fails the other has to work and trip the failsafe to alert the user of a fault maybe. If it was a boat I would say you absolutely have to link them at the same point otherwise you'll get cross potentials and galvanic corrosion. I've a set of flooded 235h flooded leady golf carts in my little camper...max continuous charge is 80amps. Nominal year-round temperature is ~10°C The reason I mentioned it was because you have to proportionally throttle your charger according to temperature for LFP, if you read the small print on those Valance you'll probably find it says "in 25°C". Have a look at lithium plating as a concept. People are saying you need to stop charging at 0°C but think 100% duty is ok at 1°C...you know it can't be. 70A = 0.2C....probably fine between 5°C and 55°C. I made the mistake of thinking I could charge LFP at C1 like I was promised. It annoys me to find I could charge a cheaper yet larger lead battery faster than lithium in most of my installations in most circumstances and the efficiency is higher because no heaters. Your lights are mad by the way...I was watching the NFC video..wow.... I thought I was bad with my 3-way switched, 7 present scene controller, programmed off the back of a lighting console with 32 independently dimmable channels...I like buttons...the phone thing isn't my bag...I loved your line "maybe that doesn't interest people because they won't care about the BMV..." Here's probably the best resource I have found on LFP charging: nordkyndesign.com/charging-marine-lithium-battery-banks/ Love your work.

I wasn't having a moan...I've seen things back off with engine vibration..I melted a cricuit breaker once. It's the same principle of checking yer wheel nuts after a wheel change. "Precession" it's called rotating bodies torque things not always the way you want.

Hmm. That would say to me there is a fault or a RCD is broken. If you have a multimeter which can do continuity. ( obviously without the shore power connected and the Multiplus turned off!!! ) presuming the Earth is bonded to the van’s chassis. check for continuity between the live & neutral pins and the chassis of van and see if there is any continuity which would imply there is a fault which is why the RCD trips

Hmmm, that’s in an interesting point. Red indicator light does seem to be referenced as a “polarity light” not saying reversed or correct on mine. now on the site I used to buy it . But I really don’t remember seeing that information at the time. The system isn’t reversed polarity as I’ve been using it for the last year on standalone and campsite hook up without issue and it all wired up correctly.

@@MispronouncedAdventures Please post an update with your findings. I've done a little more research and it shouldn't be lit.

Interesting, I’ll look into it when I get sometime. Only potential issues I could think of is the wiring on the multiplus AC-in cable ( inverter side plug or shoreside plug ) has a pin swap by accident when installing, which I don’t think is the case as it’s quite well labelled. The purchased power lead has a pin reversed or the polarity is reversed on the wiring on my parents garage for some reason ( I have never looked at the consumer units whilst on other hook ups so can’t verify the light ) .

Just a follow-up on this turns out there was a electrical issue / reversed polarity in the extension cord I was using from my parents garage. When using a normal socket wall socket ( and all other sockets and hook ups ) the lights are out. There was an issue with extension lead at my parents house I was using

I was just searching the comments to see if anyone had picked up on this, good spot. Should be checked every time you plug into 'shore power', polarity is important, also worth noting is that the light may also come on if there's an P.E. fault, i.e. no protective earth.

This case via the Victron Mk3 VE.Bus to USB adapter. And the desktop software called Ve.config

No chassis grounding in my system. The Victron diagram shows the Multiplus AC Earth point going to chassis ( AC Earth bonding ) but via there DC negative bus bar. My Multiplus AC Earth point just goes to the chassis directly for bonding as my DC system negative is not grounded to the chassis via the bus bar ( or at all ) so in turn my AC Earth couldn’t be bonded via the bus bar as there would be no connection, sorry separate connection was made.

@@MispronouncedAdventures Thought the starter battery was grounded to the chassis. Therefore I need to ground something to the chassis, either the negative bus bar or the inverter directly, right? Thanks again, your videos are so much help!

The starter battery is grounded to the chassis like in vehicles as that’s part of there normal wiring set up . My leisure / home battery has no connection via the chassis as it’s completely unnecessary in my system as I’m using the isolated version of the B2B /battery to battery charger, which is designed for Systems with no common negative / ground ( usually the chassis ) between the starter and leisure batteries, the unit a has two separate ports for the negatives of the starter and leisure system. The non-isolated B2B has only one negative / common ground, on a non-isolated system people do make the chassic connection via there neg bus bar

Www.bigwhitebox.co.uk is the company I used

@@MispronouncedAdventures Many thanks for the quick reply and information, would be great if you continue this mini series when you have chance, very interesting to see what you're doing.

I'm just looking to install the 12/1200/50 multiplus model, do you know which is the component that I need that then allows you to connect and configure it with the victron connect app? I assume it would connect to the ve.bus port and mine only has one, meaning I couldn't then connect the remote control panel you used? thanks.

A few options. The USB to VE.bus MK3 interface will allow you full control via the VE Config software. The VE.bus smart dongle will allow basic settings via the Victron connect app

@@MispronouncedAdventures Thanks once again Alex for taking the time to reply, it's appreciated.

I did. But Ve.config is a bit of a pain as it’s only on windows and I have macs. If you have a Cerbo, you can get someone remotely to set it up

Both Type A and Type B would work for the intended application, with type B covering a few more things as you have mentioned . Seems type A is more commonly use as it’s a cheaper option whilst still performing the main objective in a campervan situation which to tip in the case of the chassis becoming live under fault. It seems that Type A is the Standard requirement whilst type B would offer additional protections

If it's a high-frequency or transformerless topology then it has to be B-type which are usually far more expensive often buying a low frequency inverter outtov the gates with an A type RCD affords better surge and long term reliability for equal cost. Judging by the weight and the reduced surge capacity that multi-plus is high frequency. Because of the lack of isolation between the input and output of the inverter there can be DC injected on the output which prevents an A or AC type RCD from operating in a fault condition.

I had a look at this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UPfUn5ki7OM.html Apparently, all Victrons are low frequency...I've never seen a high-frequency one. ..pretty rare these days, only Victron and Studer are using toroids. There's a handful of others using E-I cores not especially worth mentioning. You should be grand with A type. It is suspiciously light though. If there's a massive donut traffo inside or it gives you a hernia moving it A type is suitable. Most inverters on the market especially cheapos require B-type. I asked Mastervolt once if their inverters were isolated input to output. They said yes. Then I asked what RCD to use, they said B-type. I asked how could both statements be true..they referred me to a new member of technical support staff. Those yolks are mutton dressed as lamb.

I think from looking at the Victron Easysolar unit which is a combo all in one unit with a Multiplus , MPPT with RCD’s and MCB built into the case. It’s seems the RCD’s ( Chint NL1 ) it uses are type A

Chint? Oh dear they're cheap Chinesy. Shine a light in or email Victron, you can't miss the transformer it usually takes up a quarter of the real estate. B type RCDs have come down in price since grid-tied inverters and EV chargers are mainstream. I spent €200 on one once. I only use LF inverters now. I don't think I've seen a B-type RCBO.

Hey, a full van tour will be coming but still a few weeks away yet on that. Whilst the consumer board early at three outlets. Outlets are effectively for the circuits to put into. I still need to do most of that passager side has 4 sockets in the “multimedia cupboard” for the 4K display, Xbox and Apple TV 4K. I’ll still be adding another two for that side when at the table to work on the laptop. As for drivers side. I still need to install. Probably one main one, one hidden in draw and probably on near the back. As for non AC chargers. I have USB & 12v sockets next to the bed and a few other USB chargers in places

I think I like the 12v sockets more as they are more versatile and can be swapped and upgraded easily. The multiplus does support AC pass through so on Shore / Hook up you can power items directly through the inverter which are higher wattage than the inverter inverting can do

@@MispronouncedAdventures But you would need a separate 240V circuit for this, which you are not considering? It's hard to know when to stop!

Aye there is a full shower room / wet room / drying room with recirculating shower and toilet

@@MispronouncedAdventures I saw the shower (which is amazing) but missed the toilet. I'll take another look back.

It’s removable to it was probably wasn’t in previous shots