WARNING! you will probably stop doing Archery,when you master it 100% it happend to mee! This is the last one of the "Solution" series! go out do it and be Awesome :-) www.paypal.me/...
This is definitely an eye opener. I’ve been shooting recurves and long bows for years . Can’t believe it has just now come to light. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Hello Grey! Gerhard from Austria here. I have seen all your Videos over the years. I think its really time to say thank you for all the time, you have invested to us youtubers. Thank you Grey !
I just stumbled on this 3-part series after finding the Howard Hill instruction as taught by his pupil and I gotta say it works! My groups are tighter and I enjoy the fluidity this technique allows versus the standard target style which does no good in the field hunting. Spring gobbler begins in a few weeks here and I think I’ll try and get one with the longbow. Thanks for your videos
Grey mentioned very important fact in this vid. If you draw shorter, you need higher braceheight to get more power of the bow. Did that with my bow and it really made a difference. Having a shorter draw i am able to use over on inch shorter arrow and a braceheight over 8 with a 63 inch longbow. So remember to bareshaft your arrows again and tune your braceheight when using the solution.
Wonderful analysis, Grey. One thing I realized (by tilting my head) is it allows me to use both eyes to triangulate windage (left & right) toward the target, *as well as elevation*. The reason is because my left eye is higher than my right eye, and that allows the brain to triangulate *range* to the target. With the head straight and eyes horizontal, all you can do is triangulate for windage. So the head tilt is a compromise: you lose optimal windage triangulation, but gain elevation triangulation. And that is what helps put the left hand where it needs to be to get the arrow in the bulls eye. Thanks, sensei. I've been your student for a few years now.
Thanks for this video. Few weeks ago i bought a ragim wildcat 32 pound starter bow and went straight into the woods after setting the bow up. I only looked at the target and missed by 1 meter over it at the first shot from 10 meters. But after 15 mins i could hit a shoe carton slightly moving on a rope down a tree to 80%. The next day i was at about 90% at 15 meters. I mean to shoot instinctive you really grab a bow and try to analyze every shot you did. I naturally become aware of my release, anchor point and stance. I just changed one part each time a bit and look how it goes. I guess with daily training i can go for hunting up to 20 meter in a few month. i am far from perfect, but when i hit the point i am looking for, then i am happy and thats good enough for me. I am no natural talent in any kind of sport but bow shooting in the instinctive way is what is most natural. We are the descendants of the hunters who hit their targets otherwise we would not be here! Its in our genes to calculate a flight path so it hits a moving object/stationary object. We just need to train our muscles and our brain to the given cirumstances like the equipment and environment. I just wanted to share my little story because i feel you are just one of the few here on youtube that seemed not to be to strict and stubborn with bow shooting technics. I really like the way you try new things even if you have so long years of experience.
So Right!. I learned from an Olympic Archer, and his goal is to make 10 cm groups at 90 meters. All of that shot cycle, and locked joints, and exotic equipment makes that possible (for him). But I shoot 10 cm groups at 18 meters (on good days) and I would like to shoot 30 cm groups at 50 meters someday... but I ain't gettin' any younger! Switching to Trad archery, and instinctive shooting, and re-setting my expectations is making me a happier, more pain-free archer. BTW, I would love to see more vids on general archery topics, like the fetching one. Maybe more on arrow selection? Arrow weight vs speed for consistency? You have done some of these, but it is a rich field for discussion. Thanks for the good work. R
Wow Gray! That idea of the 'interference' from both sides sounds so perfect. I sure have experienced that right side this time left side the next time inaccuracy - and wondered what the heck it was about. Thanks! Can't wait to get out and try this.
Several things to consider here. One is proper hand position on the bow. First day at archery camp Bob Wesley drew a line, with a Sharpie, down the center of my bow facing me and went straight across the metacarpal supporting my thumb once it was in proper position. All I had to do was to reference the marks to see my proper hand placement. If your hand is in the proper place on the bow the center line of the bow evenly divides the metacarpal in two equal parts. Second is to drop the shoulder of the bow arm slightly. This encourages the bent elbow posture. Both will keep you from locking the bow arm and shoulder.
First i did not liked the idea of bending the bowarm. But when i started my grousehunting season last weekend, i found out that my draw lenght when shooting with hunting clothes and different positions made me bend my arm. And if my draw lenght shortened from my previous 29 because of the "solution" at target shooting to 28, today i was shooting 27+ with my bent arm. And today when i was hunting i shot some stumps and hitted 5cm spots from almost 20 meters. And not shooting left and rights like i used to do.
Grey, this is absolutely the best. I keep practicing this way now, and if I don't get over the arrow, face the target, I am further off the mark. It works so well with my Howard Hill Jungle Cat long bow. Less need for an arm guard, groups get tighter. It is so natural. Where are you in Sweden? My friend is in Malmberget, and we talk often - he got to visit Alaska last winter.
Hi Grey . Thank you for the great explanation of the Howard Hill style . I have startet the practice it after your instructions and my groups are really shrinking :) It also gives a great option to monitor if the arrow is really flying true and straight .
Yes ! it is an awesome style :) i also got sore muscles , i think that it involves slightly different muscles than the upright style , but that is just a question of more training i guess :) I shoot a Bodnik slick stick 45 pounds by the way .
Dear Grey, Thanks very much for your Solution video series, I am trying to apply it to my shot cycle and my recent results get better :-) I have one question about the solution and the feet placement. Howard Hill seemed to have a parallel stance to the target and faced the target with the upper body. I have practiced a parrallel stance, open stance, or a hybrid between two, and I know that it changes a lot in the shot cycle. In your Solution films yo do not show your feets and legs, so I am wondering what is your stance and opinion on this issue ? Thanks and greetings from Poland!
Hello. Thanks so much for your videos. I know I'm late to the party as I just came across your "solution" videos. I'm relatively new to traditional archery. Some days I shoot fairly well but far too many days my arrows fly off target, which drives me crazy. I've been following your advice and after two days I can already see my consistency has improved and with much less effort. I think I was fighting my bow and my technique. I've been practicing with a lightweight entry level bow but recently tried a slightly heavier bow and it felt comfortable and my accuracy didn't suffer with the heavier weight. My draw length went from 30.5 inches to 29 inches using the short draw technique. Question...when the time comes for me to buy a higher quality bow, do you recommend a bow with the riser/arrow shelf cut "on center" or doesn't that matter much? Appreciate your thoughts. Many Thanks!!
Its easyer to tune the Arrows when its cut past center,less paradox movement and less sensitiv to Grip and release,so yes everything is better with cut past center, by the way you dont have to short draw just se so you have the Arrow under your Eye,thats al that matter and tune the Arrows so the fly where the shaft is pointing!
Hello Mr Grey, I have recently been trying to learn Manchurian style archery, which is also 100% an intuitive archery style. The formal technique is well documented (For example www.manchuarchery.org/technique The last photo says a lot.) but watching your videos and comments from your experience really helped to join the dots. Although many things are different (Thumb draw, arrow on the right, v long draw to the shoulder) there are so many similarities with the points you are talking about. Such as; - Oblique stance looking at the target. - Not looking at the bow at all (Even when nocking, but thats easy with arrow on the right) - Drawing is done with both arms/shoulders equally, so bow arm pushes the bow and doesnt fully straighten. - Consistent draw length (Index finger of the bow hand feels the arrowhead binding) - Straight back and neck with a forward leaning full draw position (Also in v old photos and paintings) - Because of the long draw there is no definite anchor point and the arrow is next to the cheek (but thats no problem if the arrow is under the eye from leaning forward). So basically the Manchurian warriors where using 'the solution' for hundreds of years and it played a major role in the Qing dynasty conquest of china. After combining your explanations of how intuitive archery works with the manchurian technique my shooting is already improving faster. Thanks!
I shoot recurve this days. Last time i try out a longbow that kick so much that after 10x my neck was hurting. My longbow is a kicker😁. So recurve is for me the only way i can go. I have no experience about any another longbow so i can say if they all are like that. Maybe not. It would be nice that you make video about where you just shoot difrent bows and slomo the images. Mayby there is answers to that frontkick issue.
