Just found you this week. I've watched so many of your videos the last few days i'm getting a Swedish accent. lol. What the hell man? Your info is awesome. Go enjoy the shooting in the woods, but dont stop making the informative vids! You're awesome!
This is all backward, by increasing the brace height, you are effectively increasing the preload on the limbs. Therefore increasing the bows poundage at full draw. Because bow limbs all respond differently during loading and unloading on the power stroke, the stored energy at full draw has the most significant effect on the energy transferred to the arrow. If your arrow is stiff, increasing the brace height will soften it, if your arrow is soft, decreasing the brace height will stiffen it. Simple physics!
nope, sorry Steve but you have it backwards. also changing your brace height has no effect on the draw weight at full draw. don't believe me? try it for yourself. at 30 inches draw, my bow pulls 55lbs regardless of 8" brace or 6" or anything in-between. what does change however is the length of time that the string has in contact with the arrow. more time = more energy transferred. therefore if my normal brace height is 7" and my arrow is showing weak, maybe increase it to 7.5" or even 8" and it will stiffen the arrow. from my limited tests, I found that I could create just as much variation as around +/- 5 grains of point weight on the arrow. basically just enough to fine-tune the bare shafts so that they group in with the fletched arrows. I usually do this if I have time before a shoot and then use the bare shaft to check my form (distance around 20m)
I see that this was posted quite a while ago, but I think the simple physics explanation is called hooks law. The force required to stretch a spring is directly proportional to the distance it is stretched (or compressed). The further you pull the string, the more force required, and the more potential stored in the limbs. Brace Height will impact arrow flight though.
hey Master Grey, i had a question regarding braceheight tuning. i found the following way on facebook somewhere. what are your thoughts on it? "set a horizontal line on your target and set your brace height to the lower end of the recommened range. now shoot a solid 3 shot group, using/ keeping the point of the arrow directly on that line. your groups are going to hit higher then the line. measure that distance and record it. now add 2 twist to the string and do the same thing again. measuring both B/H and distance of arrow impact above your sight line. as you keep doing this and recording those 2 numbers the groups will keep rising above the line. suddenly with the next 2 twist you'll see the group fall significantly. now go back and set your B/H to the measurement with the highest group" i know it does require a quick change to point of aim instead of instinctive, else you will go lower and lower untill you hit the line lol
Thank you very much for a new video. I was so sad when you said that you won't post more videos because I learned a lot from you. Thank you again for ALL your videos. I also felt like I missed opportunity to ask you an important question for me. Since this is not related to this video, is it ok to ask here?
Hey Grey. Have you considered any book-project about the Traditional Archery ? Are there any suitable publishers in Sweden ? The focus group is global, but still quite small, but i think that a book from you would be very nice next to traditionalists book shelf. And if writing is difficult you can always find someone to help you with that if a publisher is interested about the project. You could even kickstart it if you find some partner in Sweden to help you with that process. Might not be a good idea, but i am at least trying to find some business idea to give you some income from your knowledge.
I present a challenge to all people that respect this man. If you have connections that could give this man a job in archery business he would be the perfect man for the job.
I love your videos. But I don't know if you're actually right. Or better said, I don't know if you're scale theory is right. Because every scale needs a minimum to get moving. Even a diamond scale says nothing when you lay a feather on it. It's only when you put some weight to it, and remove it, that you see how much the feather weighs. I actually think you need a minimum brace height to get to a 28" draw (or whatever minimum draw your bow recommends). Which means you will have to add an inch if you draw 27". Then you get the minimum poundage you need. The rest is just comfort. No?
Grey, you had in one of you video that if you have a long draw, (I have a 30.5" draw) you should start at the lowest brace height and if you had a 28" draw to start in the middle of the bows brace heights. Why is that? Your films are the best have helped me a lot.
***** Thanks man! I actually just BST my arrows yesterday for the first time, because I just started watching your videos. Sad to see you go. I have two of your thick tabs coming from falco so we will see if I have to tune again. :)
the best bar none. those look like longbow limbs on your Acadian. for some reason i thought you shot a recurve Acadian. have to go back to your original Acadian film ;-)
Jag antar att du, liksom många andra, har sett på Lars Andersens video om bågskyte och jag undrar vad du tänker om den? Verkar det han säger vettigt eller inte och varför? (Länk till videon i fråga: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BEG-ly9tQGk.html )
