absolutely. This channel, @JoDaddysGarage, @AndyKruseChannel. There are a bunch that give real detailed excellent content but they just get picked up by the algorithm.
One of the main reasons I traded my finished/painted/running/driving ‘32 Ford coupe hot rod straight across for a ‘55 Nomad “rolling project” was that the floors, rockers and tail pan was already replaced. This kind of metalwork (like this project here) takes SO MUCH TIME. It’s a labor of love but necessary to make a strong car. NICE VIDEO!
A suggestion.... On that piece you need to fab up, you could cut the curved bend off of both sides and spot weld both to a flat piece of metal, thus reducing the amount of work you need to put into that piece. It will also be easier to put the 90 degree bends that piece without the radiused bead on it.
Very excellent work. Really like that when you do a patch that you replicate the original part to include the bead-roll, etc. Those details have a huge impact on the quality of the restoration.
I had a 55 2-door hard top in 1970 with a straight axel, 327, wheel well headers, American mags, Stuart Warner gauges across the dash. It was stolen after i finished it. When it was found, it was stripped and beat up. I salvaged some parts (fenders, trunk lid) and let the rest go to pay for the towing charges. In todays market, it would have had some value and rebuilt again.
Sometimes its easier to remove everything then completely repair it right the way your doing it than cutting corners sort of speak.Then you know you did it right. I'm doing my rear quarters to a 55 wagon the same way. I even took apart my B pillers and it's a Nomad. Talk about little Intricate pieces removing the lead and drilling out all the spot welds. It's alot of work but it will be done right.
